Here is a list of all the postings David Paterson 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Clock wheel marking jig
Mounted this on a piece of 42mm thick Jarrah so it sits on the bench.
Mind you, I have just finished my second clock before I set out to make the tool.
Clearly absolutely recommended
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 16/05/2017 08:42:41
My wife gave me a 2-day blacksmithing course for Christmas that I did at the start of april - you do not want to be in a closed forge in Jan/Feb in Canberra.
It was Tharwa Valley Forge, **LINK**
They have a lot of people with mixed metalworking skills come through the knifemaking course. Talking to people who have done it tells me that many come as their first experience in metalworking, while there are also a good range of more experienced people.
The intro to blacksmithing that I did started with a fire tool, proceeded to a pair of forge tongs, and then onto your own project. Max course size is 4 (I really lucked out and started with 2, second day just me so we really could do a lot)
course design is well thought through, equipment is very good, and the school owner (Karim) is very highly regarded as a local artisan. (as is his daughter who has been making and selling knives since she was - literally- about 12. she runs a school holiday program of 1 day blacksmithing). My instructor was also a local artisan who specialises in making Japanese style straight razors.
The facility is very well equipped with plenty of work stations for several people and you use both manual and powered tools (10 and 25 ton smacking engines - very cool).
Edited By David Paterson 4 on 16/05/2017 03:30:36
|Thread: Setting up for intermediate threads|
I knew there would be someone here to help, thanks.
I have the metric pair, so just need to check the rest - lucky I have a night in the shed today !! (with the heater turned on)
After 3 tries I managed to make a couple of screws the right diameter with a screw plate that I do have on the 8mm lathe. However, the pitch did not match. The big trick seems to be to make the OD with a hand graver so no stress 😀
A close look at a book on threads indicates that all of the makers seem to have their own 'standard', with the Waltham being the target here. I have not been able to locate a Waltham screw plate yet, and don't want to re-tap the watch plates to match a metric thread which I am sure I can do.
There is no real rush, I may have sourced a couple of screws but they have round heads so are not quite right. Would like to get a range of plates, but suspect that will be pretty hot and miss. Any help on suppliers in that direction would be appreciated also.
I need to cut a very small thread for an old American watch. Best I can discover it is 0.6mm and 200 tpi.
I have a Hercus lathe and an 8mm wolf Jahn (no lead screw).
The gearbox on the Hercus can set to 192 or 208 TPI, My initial thoughts were to put the gearbox at a smaller number such as 50 or 100 and use change gears to hit the 200. But the gearbox neatly brackets all of the obvious numbers.
I know this is going to be a real fiddle and is very small so will take a few gouges, but can anyone give me a start on the pitch please.
|Thread: Cool summer project for my little daughter|
If you want to see how 'back door' promotions should be none, browse the American Fine Woodworking forum.
The was a chap there from Freud. He would answer all sorts of complex questions about set-up and use of things like saws and routers without any product content. then about half would have a last line that said....And if you don't have the kit, here are the Freud part numbers. He also clearly displayed the logo in his signature.
He was up front and helpful, well respected in the forum.
|Thread: Smith grasshopper skeleton|
Current practical experience is that the book is one of the worst pieces of technical writing for purpose I have come across.
In the book, I am pretty sure I recall a comment that the clock is not intended for timekeeping
The frames are a challenge, and I am waiting to discover if the inaccuracy in the template is going to be critical. Low probability or I would not have cut metal.
Some of the components are big (for small clock tooling) but I rather like the sacrificial wood faceplates as a technique and expect to have a go at the escape wheels this weekend.
|Thread: 5" Lion|
I work in reasonably senior role in IT and have used the code (copper) with junior staff as an example of good tech writing.
i have built one boiler, a 3" vertical multi tube by drawing Harris from the code- one book each side of my drafting board. Very straight forward.
cant comment on the actual standards, the thicknesses all seem to be readily available from stock, seems like a good idea.
|Thread: Any Aussie subscribers here?|
It's a total lottery for me (Canberra)
over dec-feb I seemed to have lots of gaps in arrival, so I did a bit of an audit and think I am missing about three from last year. I too lie to read on the couch, and given that I have a few locations they tend to get scattered. Hence the need for an audit.
i have found that if I email a replacement is sent quickly, so have kept up the subscription.
ps. Don't try and find MEW on the shelves - it's almost a lost cause.
Edited By David Paterson 4 on 16/03/2015 02:16:19
|Thread: How far back do archives go?|
going to have a go at the smith skeleton clock with grasshopper escapement. Book is pushing $100 by the time it gets here with postage.
Ordered the book instead
Looking to do a project from mid1983, vol 151. I have access to the digital subscription, but that only seems to go back to vol 183.
can anyone tell me what the deal is here?
|Thread: Wooden cleading for stationary steam engine boiler|
it was good fun, built the first one 'just because', then got carried away and did a 23'double kayak to paddle the Murray marathon with my wife. That was 400km in 5days- a clear case of enthusiasm winning over common sense.
the kayak hangs over part of the shed and routinely clocks my 6'4" son on the head
If you are making a 'strip planked' canoe, you se the bead and cove.
these boats are made from 1/4*3/4 cedar, generally, and each strip is prepared are with a 1/4 dia bead on one side and matching cove on the other. This lets them be snugged together as they go around the curve of the station moulds. Once on, sand outside smooth.
having built a couple of these, I reckon the tooling design is poor and the beads need to be more like 5/16 or 3/8 diameter as matching the wood thickness and diameter means you run into problems on tight curves.
would not be hard to do this for cleading- I am about to do one and hadn't thought of this. Was going to do a coopered approach (wedge shaped cross section) which is less tolerant of error.
again, based on canoe experience, the cove is harder to get right than the bead. If you were to apply the cove before cutting the strip it might be under better control. At this scale, scraper will be more than adequate if you watch grain direction. Look for a piece of timber with a slight consistent grain run out along the edge, rather than one too perfect- counter intuitive, but you will get a better result more easily and strength is not an issue here.
i have to confess that I do still do a fair bit of woodwork in spare time, it is not as scary as some think!
|Thread: Smith grasshopper skeleton|
Thanks chaps for the info,
digital subscription seems to only go back to vol 187 (clock started in vol 151), so more searching needed,
still have to do the chapter rings on the first clock, but it is now up on a bracket in he dining room. Negotiation is that it should not have a chime or strike unless at the far end of the house
I am considering the above as my second clock, and understand that the plans may have appeared in ME at some time.
can anyone point me in the right direction please.
been some time since I came onto this site - seem to be developing a severe allergy to pixels in my spare time
|Thread: Units of measure in Gear cutting|
Interesting read - makes you wonder about maths.
I needed a thin woodruff key cutter so have stepped through the process of a fly cutter and using the index plate last night for 10 teeth. looks pretty much like the ratchet wheel i need to do that has much more materials and time invested than a 3" length of silver steel
next for the tooth profiles. first project might be an orrery based on Furgussons paradox. There is enough info around to see how a few of the problems have been solved, andit is only 5 gears.
Excellent, thank you.
I now have enough information to have a go at this.
Are you aware of any similar references that would let you generate cutters for clock making? I understand that these are cycloidal and they seem to have a much greater depth of cut than would appear feasible through use of button formers.
Edited By David Paterson 4 on 15/12/2013 23:56:29
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.