Here is a list of all the postings David Paterson 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
or, don't use a wick.
There is an old edgar westbury article on using vaporising burners around (I only have a scan copy - PM if you want it.
I have a meths-fired verticle boiler I designed a vaporising burner for and got working on second attempt. It uses a small wick to preheat the burner by means of a spider above the flame Sorry I cant find any pictures, and then when hot all of the heat is from a 'donut' of 1mm vent holes. generates many times the flame area of 3*1/4" wicks on my first trial system.
I do have to support the draught while the whole thing heats up. given this only gets used in the shed, I tend to just warm up the flue with the torch for about 30 seconds which creates enough draught to support the flame - if I was to use indoors I would need a fan or some sort.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
My blood pressure tablets come in a bottle with a small sachet of silica gel - useful continuing supply about the right size for your application if you can find a 'supplier'
just a pity the bottles are opaque
|Thread: Car problems|
Back in '81 I went on my first posting to Townsville. I had a '54MGTF at the time and my father advised me not to take it because of road conditions. He lived in Vic Barracks at the time, and I'm pretty sure all of the roads in North Queensland were better than around Moore park and Central station.
PS. Clutch change on that car - remove roof, seats and floor boards and take out through passenger door.
Edited By David Paterson 4 on 29/06/2017 06:34:23
|Thread: Combination squares|
Are they not the 'shifting spanner' of measuring tools?
Good stable ones are good for finding centeres, repeatable (unmeasured) angles, and depth of big holes.
They are very useful carpentry tools
My comment that sort of kicked of this string was really about having the confidence to get started and the need to persevere with confidence. Absolutely support your comment about the need to read and ask as much as you can.
I had a recent (house renovation) experience with my son who drilled two holes in the wrong place in a window frame. he is working his way through plugging them and drilling new ones. No stress from me, lick of paint to cover the mistake. he will tackle the next one head on.
I do note that Geoffs comment talked about the low cost of turning axles - good that he didn't start with the expensive castings.
I have been trying to make very small screws for some watch restoration. Currently up to 6 without success after some very helpful advice on this forum. No's 2&3 would screw in, but under magnification really didn't have good enough thread form. have broken the last 2. I am leveraging all the skills and experience I can get - one mentor simply showed me it was possible and said get on with it.
|Thread: Cross drilling|
Take a short length of brass round and chick in the lathe.
centre drill 1mm about 6 mm deep.
part off , do not disturb in chuck
centre drill through hole 3/32 - ream if you are fussy
set up in vice with 3/32 hole horizontal and 1mm hole resting on the bar - like a laid-down 'L'
1mm hole provides a guide that will be centred. best if you drill right through the brass first then insert the piece you want to put the hole through.
|Thread: Tool grinding|
Cabinet making tools typically are quite thin and need a long straight edge to do their job. For example, a smoothing plane needs a straight edge ground at 25 deg over 2 1/2" width. Therefore, they are quite sensitive to overheating. Before the days of these slow speed grinders it was quite tricky to get a full width grind without burning at least one of the corners; and you needed to keep your sharpening stones quite flat (I kept separate stones for planes and narrow tools, scrapers were sharpened on the side of the stone.)
I cant think of a metal working application that needs this, but with the right attachment, your kitchen knives will be superb.
|Thread: Making a vertical boiler|
That GLR one looks good
|Thread: Animal lovers|
in the same area (around Canberra) in summer I used to let the hose run on the ground near the feed bin a few times each week so that the feet stayed a bit soft and didn't crack. Routine for the pony club set to oil the hooves every day, but it didn't really work for ponies with black feet. The hose trick came from the dry country in South Australia.
Throwing the horse was considered a routine skill where i did part of my time in North Queensland (much bigger and still rougher than texas ). I could do it safely by the time I was about 14. The problem was that the horses were often only brought in for a few weeks each year for mustering, and only had their feet picked up for shooing. Putting the horse on its side, feet tied together and a bale of hay or pack bag between the legs was much safer for the bloke doing the work.
I have a couple of photos stashed away somewhere - pretty hard work and not sorry it is past. But I still have the tools just in case.
|Thread: Making a vertical boiler|
I bought Harris's book and the Australian model boiler standards. I then re-drew the Harris vertical multitube using the Australian standards (redrawing the Harris picture let me work out where to put the fittings anyway). This covered issues such as the actual size of bushes and tube spacing - I reckon i would have been better off with a smaller number of tubes at larger spacing, except that the flue needs to be warm to get a proper draw on a spirit burner - all good experience)
The reading/drawing process probably taught me more about the subject than I would have ever achieved following a set of plans straight off and really only took 2 evenings with compass and set square - the standards are very well written. They also resulted in a tool list - and then a set of ME taps and dies which is always good.
This was a 3" - to small for your task, but the concept holds
Have you thought about doing a small (2 1/2 or 3" to get the feel for heat management on big chunks of copper when silver soldering, and to think about things like a hearth? pretty cheap to do and useful to make your smaller engines sound right when showing off to family. (its a regular activity in the shed when we have visitors)
Edited By David Paterson 4 on 31/05/2017 02:22:07
My current view on people who are worried about making mistakes:
How to learn to use a lathe -
There are people in my family who are scared of mistakes in craft, typically, the cost of recovery has been a couple of balls of wool, or in one case this year a trip to the firewood pile for another piece of carving stock.
|Thread: Animal lovers|
I have done it with the horse thrown on its side and used a hand saw because the hoof was too hard for the clippers. (Australian dry paddocks).
The big problem with this level of neglect is that the bones in the foot can rotate and cause irrecoverable damage such that the horse needs to be put down.
My dogs also loved the stuff - and the smelly bits off the frog
|Thread: Milling Cutter sharpening|
Try these guys
they are local to me and I use them for bandsaw blades and router bits, haven't tried milling cutters but good service to me.
|Thread: What type of wood to use?|
for wire wheels - rawhide side of a copper / rawhide mallet. will not mark the chrome and is heavy enough to lock on the hubs with a few hits.
grain orientation on the mallets shown will mark very quickly on small cross-section steel. I would suggest a banded piece with an end-grain face. Almost any hardwood except the Australian and tropical varieties that have mineral inclusions - eg merbau - as there is always a risk they will mark the surface.
many Australian hardwoods have a very short curly grain that tends to collapse under this type of work (eg blakeleys and other red gum used for posts) so although dense, heavy and cheap, not ideal.
|Thread: Scale narrow gauge locomotive|
There is a running full size one where I live - its huge
|Thread: Setting up for intermediate threads|
ERcollet chuck on the spindle nose - a commercial version of the one Harold Hall describes, careful attention to centre height and to sharp tools, and no cut larger than 2thou. I do have a few things to sort, such as not over heating the steel and being able to use a saw to cut the slot, but will get there.
Thanks - PM to follow
this was all done on the Hercus with HSS tooling honed using fine Arkansas
Thanks to all, success.
The OD is a little undersize (.63mm vs .65), and I could have come closer to the shoulder if the LHS of the tool was finer, but this will work when I finish off the head. Saw wont touch it, so will need a screw head file.
That chart is the same data I used, just a different source. I should have been more precise. The one I am shooting for is size 17. With the minor diameter determined by turning a short length until it just fit into the tapped hole in the plate. I got the best result from the screw plate with an OD of 0.6, But wrong TPI, assume because of the same deformation experienced with larger dies. I expect to start with 0.65mm when on the lathe.
I have the facility to grind a single point cutter under a microscope, not really sure or the thread angle but will aim for 60deg in a piece of 3mm HSS.
I am finding this small stuff not too hard - just a matter of being careful and mistakes only cost time.
Went through the box of stuf I have never used, never done a metric thread before, and doesn't look like the 100/127 set has ever been used. The setup needs a spacer with key way behind the screw wheel that I don't have, so need to make that first, otherwise, going well.
I used the screw plate I have with a tailstock runner to keep it square. The only problem was trying to get the right starting diameter and a nice square shoulder with the graver. The screw has afinished length of only about 2mm, so I started with a bit over 3 to get it running well. It's not that the screw plate did not produce a good thread, just the wrong pitch and I have been unable to source a Waltham plate.
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