Here is a list of all the postings ady has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Spur Gear Diff|
I see what you mean...sounds intruiging though
got to go out now...will try to suss later if no-one else does
A spur-gear differential has two equal-sized spur gears, one for each half-shaft, with a space between them. Instead of the Bevel gear, also known as a miter gear, assembly (the "spider") at the centre of the differential, there is a rotating carrier on the same axis as the two shafts. Torque from a rime mover">prime mover or transmission, such as the drive shaft of a car, rotates this carrier.
Mounted in this carrier are one or more pairs of identical pinions, generally longer than their diameters, and typically smaller than the spur gears on the individual half-shafts. Each pinion pair rotates freely on pins supported by the carrier. Furthermore, the pinions pairs are displaced axially, such that they mesh only for the part of their length between the two spur gears, and rotate in opposite directions. The remaining length of a given pinion meshes with the nearer spur gear on its axle. Therefore, each pinion couples that spur gear to the other pinion, and in turn, the other spur gear, so that when the drive shaft rotates the carrier, its relationship to the gears for the individual wheel axles is the same as that in a bevel-gear differential
Edited By ady on 09/12/2011 10:01:01
Edited By David Clark 1 on 12/12/2011 11:01:18
|Thread: Top Slide Self Act?|
The other problem is memory space in small chips
The ASM program is only around 200 bytes
The Windows executable is 82000 bytes
Edited By ady on 09/12/2011 06:37:45
I got here backwards
It was my interest with hobby programming which led me to CNC...and then on to lathe work.
This is a program which will show you
BASIC counting to 9,999,999
ASM counting to 999,999,999
The difference in raw power is mind boggling
BBC Basic for windows is the only "easy" programming language I know of which allows you to put machine code instructions into a higher level language
this is the code:
REM count to a billion
DIM P% 70
PRINT "ASM is counting to 999,999,999"
PRINT ~ USR(addup)
PRINT "Basic is counting to 9,999,999"
IF B% < 9999999 THEN GOTO 10
You can download the compiled program here.
I'm just an enthusiastic amateur btw, groping in the dark, so don't get too technical if there are any questions
The choice is quite stark
If you need raw number crunching power and pure speed then you really have no choice because ASM can count to a billion up to 100 times faster than BASIC can count to 10 million.
In this example program BASIC is only doing 1% of the work that ASM has achieved
Edited By ady on 09/12/2011 05:57:33
|Thread: ME Forum|
|1) Open firefox Browser|
2a) In address bar Type: about:config
3) Find: image.animation_mode
4) Change the value to none
Woah! Even more improvement for me, well worth a shot this one chaps.
If a priority advertisers' server does not respond, then the page will refuse to load.
On an old browser you will get a blank box with an "X" in it.
Some of you might have noticed that those blank boxes with the X in the top corner we got in previous years.....have now "disappeared"
Long live the democratic peoples digital eutopia...
Edited By ady on 08/12/2011 01:12:43
It's probably a vain plea, but can someone get rid of the Flash ad content? I find all the animated stuff profoundly irritating and it clogs up the bandwidth as well as annoying people.
Clever lad. Most problems are from bandwidth hogging advertising bloatware.
In Firefox tools/addons you can disable everything, which helps a bit.
A lot of it is now embedded in the modern browsers., you get zero options
I learned 15 years ago...keep your old "outdated" software or you will regret it.
I use Internet Explorer 4 if I'm in a hurry.
The old browsers have none of the supporting software that modern browsers employ.
It's a sort of conspiracy.
They tell you that the virus boogyman will get you...and then encourage you to download more bloatware packages.
Wikipedia is probably the biggest non-bloatware site left on the internet.
IMO Its convenience and speed of use have been a major factor in its success.
When you click on a link up to a hundred different sites from around the planet start loading their different bits for the page you view.
ME.co.uk has the fast bit, the message in text...but you won't see that until the huge queue of advertising stuff has loaded itself onto your pooter and then the page can display.
Edited By ady on 08/12/2011 01:05:39
|Thread: Was this the birth of CNC ?|
There was the loom chappies who used huge punch cards to produce various patterns in materials.
I believe it was on "industrial revelations"
Like those auto playing pianos in cowboy movies.
All electricity ever did, was make things faster, more reliable, more compact, and more convenient.
Babbages' work was mechanical computers, and they worked.
Everything is kind of relative to your own environment.
The Maya(or those Aztec dudes) created one of the most accurate astronomical calendars in human history with a number system using base 19
...they didn't invent a wheel though, everything got carried on your head and they cut out your heart and threw you down some steps if you were a POW.
The Romans were incredible...and also had one of the most seriously crappy number counting systems in the history of human civilisation.
They still managed to build some of the best structures anyone has ever built in the history of mankind.
As I say. It's all relative
Edited By ady on 08/12/2011 00:34:27
|Thread: Top Slide Self Act?|
I tried a cheap version of those flexi drill cables to run a light milling spindle and the wire failed at the chuck end after a couple of days.
They are fine for very light drilling work though.
I am now struggling up the near vertical learning curve for PIC assembler programming
I did a couple of years of assembler, it's one heck of a learning curve.
You will find an interpreter invaluable.
Highly addictive and incredibly frustrating to learn
This guy made one...the entire microsoft corporation couldn't do it...but he did.
One of the most amazing bits of coding you will ever come across.
It's best run on an interface like windowsME or windows98SE, you get far fewer problems.From windows2000 onwards microsoft was looking to completely remove the reliance on DOS.
The raw power of assembler can completely freak modern versions of windows out.
While it won't be exactly the same language it shows you the logic with the registers and flags and can help you in many ways, error trapping etc.
Edited By ady on 06/12/2011 19:06:44
|Thread: randa change wheel carrier, banjo.|
They look like the banjo pivots on the rear leadscrew bearing part and is nipped up with a nut + collar
These look very similar
|Thread: Myford / RDG|
From Norton Motorbikes to Triumph Stags, it's a tradition for British engineering to leak copious quantities of oil.
You should be very proud to have such an original and traditional piece of British history.
If it has the Myford logo on it you can put it up on ebay in 10 years and they will fight like ferrets over it
FOR SALE. ORIGINAL MYFORD OIL CAN.
Then you can buy a non-leaky Suzuki oil can with the proceeds.
Edited By ady on 06/12/2011 04:34:21
|Thread: Drilling hole of 0.0310" with deepth 0.91" of AISI 304L|
How do they get away with running at 360,000.
That was the speed of the drilling spindles we were making.
Thye were working on a 500,000 RPM version when I left the company.
This subject also fascinates me, obviously specialist gear is needed and I would presume that at over 100,000 rpm a wee drop of lube would be handy.
If the original OP is struggling and only has a bog standard Schaublin I seriously doubt that he's going to be any threat to national security, lol
The subject matter itself though...is fascinating, we've certainly come a long way from a pultra thumb slide drill.
|Thread: Myford ML1|
I did take a couple of readings with the DTI off the centre. I read 1 thou run out in normal
Take a bit of metal and chuck it so it sticks about 2 inches beyond the chuck jaws.
Put the DTI against it on the opposite side to the tooltip, 2 inches out from the jaws.
Push the tooltip against the workpiece with mild cutting pressure and you will see a shocking amount of movement, which is flex, coming from the DTI
This is the sort of thing we're all up against, so don't get too hung up on amazing accuracy until you learn to overcome the limitations of your machine when it's doing work.
Edited By ady on 03/12/2011 08:37:59
Hard to find time on a 9 to 5 though
Worth the effort, it's a hobby where you eventually get out more than what you put in because you're also learning a highly skilled trade.
I try to do an hour and evening after work, after tea, even if I'm really knackered.
I no longer watch TV at night, which makes things easier.
Where would it be best to take DTI readings from? what also would be best lubricant wise.
The lathe bed.
Anywhere which is in a solid relationship with the particular task you are measuring, and take the measurement directly opposite, 180 degrees, to the opposing force whenever possible.
You will get various lube replies, I've only used cheap motor oil for everything so far.
The main thing is, whatever oil you have, you learn to use it where it's needed.
|Thread: A change is as good as a rest|
Could you do me a favour and make something really manky. It would make me feel better.
I second this motion!
|Thread: Tipped Tools|
(My ground HSS parting tool broke )
Had problems myself with high speed parting.
Any kind of stiffness error and yer goosed, bam!
I started to part using my backgear, it does take longer but its miles easier, and I always part from the rear, not the front.
One big advantage was no heat issues if you use the backgear, so you can part thick aluminium bar really easily.
Edited By ady on 30/11/2011 08:22:23
I made my first from 10mm of silver steel and bought a chunky 15mm one
I use my own handmade HSS inserts.
Never had a problem, rough boring is one of the easiest things you can do on a lathe because the tool support is directly over the lathe bed.
I would definitely recommend the cheap and cheerful route, if you haven't done boring before then you're going to have a few unintentional internal collisions as part of the learning curve before you get a "feel" for boring.
A leadscrew clutch is very handy for long boring jobs, and once you get around to it, internal threads.
Edited By ady on 30/11/2011 08:15:14
|Thread: Cutting a Morse Taper|
Anyone point me in the right direction?
I tried a few different systems for my MT1
The best for me was to measure an MT1 which was fine, at the thick end and thin end over a set distance, about 2 inches, 16 turns of the leadscrew on my imperial lathe.
This difference in taper diameter (in millimeters) was halved, call it the X-factor
Then I fiddled about with a dial indicator and my compound slide until by moving the saddle 2 inches the dial indicator, set against the side of the compound, moved the dial indicator the X-factor distance
Make sure everything is snug on the compound, no wobblyness for the cut.
Did this a few times now and got a very decent first fit, only needed to polish the taper up with some fine grit paper after that.
You'll get a few different suggestions, people have their own way of doing tapers and the best system is the one which works best for you.
If you do use a profile/tracking system like in the first reply be very careful to track as exactly along the centreline as possible, if you mistakenly track away from the centreline along a cone then it will give you a bad taper.
Because it's pretty fiddly to set up once I get a good one I try and do a batch of 2 or more morse as needed.
Tapering out from the chuck towards the tail or the tail towards the chuck needs to be tested out along the full traverse of the cut, you can get fouling issues
I haven't done this yet but it ocurred to me that if I needed an MT1 BORE then this would be a great time to drill and bore an MT1 hole.
since my male tapers are spot on....by leaving everything set exactly as it is and simply replacing the cutting tool with a boring tool...in theory I'm laffing.
Haven't tried that one yet though.
Edited By ady on 30/11/2011 08:01:45
|Thread: Slitting saw thickness|
Care to link to what cutting disks are suitable for aluminium ?
Sorry. I just use what I've got. No names to name.
Fleabay specials, extra thin, can be used on stainless.
You've GOT to mount stuff properly, both the cutting disc and the workpiece.
Those hand held things are a dangerous joke.
Edited By ady on 28/11/2011 13:05:48
I've found that cutting discs are far less scary than slitting saws.
Stiffness for the disc and the work, a decent speed and a careful feed rate seem to be pretty essential to a decent job.
Heat can be a major issue, especially aluminium, because the slitting saw gap can close as the aluminium heats up.
There are various sources for cutting discs.
Edited By ady on 28/11/2011 07:17:31
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