Here is a list of all the postings Phil P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
My bottle of 601 was given to me about 25 years ago, and it was of unknown age then.
It still performs perfectly well every time I use it, and will probably get passed on to someone else when I am pushing up daisies. !!
|Thread: Black anodised steel????|
Could you not make your own spindle adapter, then you know for sure what it is made from ?
|Thread: piston rings|
The info below is from the E.J. Winter catalogue. So it is probably the one in question I would think.
No IC/14 1/2 Full Size Roseberry Type A Hit and Miss Petrol Engine 75CC 1 1/2” Bore by 2 1/8” Stroke 3/4HP Two Stroke Air Cooled An accurate half size version of an example of a once common small stationary power unit. The original plans were prepared by Mr Russell Paynter from a full-sized engine in his possession and includes some unique features. Engine Data Length 14 1/2” Height 7 7/16” Width 10 1/4” Flywheels (2) 7 1/4” Uses “Victa” points and standard 10mm spark plug Plans: 1-2820 Castings: 7-8000 E and J Winter – Bolton Scale Models PO Box 9440, Bathurst NSW 2795 Australia
|Thread: Is this usual?|
I find with long projects such as my corliss mill engine, that I need to break off and do a bit of toolmaking periodically.
I am currently in a broken off phase and making some collet blocks so I can use the Pultra 1770 10mm collets in the jig borer vice.
|Thread: Tools for Super 7|
I use a piece of 1/4" square "Stellite" in my tangential tool holder, I always sharpen it on the side of the wheel so I get a flat cutting face and then keep a really keen edge with an occasional touch up with one of those cheap diamond hand file thingy's.
Unless I need a specific shaped form tool for something, this is my "Go To" tool every time now. The surface finish it produces is superb. The Stellite tends to keep a sharp edge for much longer than regular HSS tool steel.
|Thread: Reaming - depth of cut|
Use your 11.5 drill to remove most of the material, but before you ream it take a very light cut down the drilled hole with a small boring bar, making sure you do not remove too much. This will ensure that any runout of the drilled hole is corrected before you ream it.
I did a 10mm hole 1½" deep last night using this method, and used a 3/8" drilled hole as the starting point, it is surprising how much your drill will wander off course by the time it reaches full depth and your reamer will just follow the drilled hole and the finished bore will not be concentric to the outside of your part.
I know not many people will advise you to do this boring operation, but it is a really important step if you want accurate results.
As Speedy said above, have a practice on some scrap to get the hang of it first.
Edited By Phil P on 05/11/2019 07:02:57
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Those wheels are superb, well done.
Can I ask you to enlighten us on how you produced the raised lettering please.
|Thread: Tapping drill size|
It can be a good idea to keep a tapping drill in the same place as you store your taps, and only use it for that purpose, and keep your drill sets for general use.
That way you dont even need to look it up on your tapping size chart every time.
The second chart lower down this web page gives some very useful data including thread depth percentages.
I stand by my "general" M8 (1.25) tapping size of 7.05mm
I cannot remember the last time I broke a tap or stripped a thread, but each to their own, you will soon discover when you get down to much smaller sizes that the usual tapping size charts are no good because the thread engagement percentage is too high.
For that reason I spent a lot of time researching and created my own tapping drill chart many years ago it has served me very well and I use nothing else now.
I personally use a letter "J" drill for general use M8 threads which is 7.05mm. Zeus charts tell you to use a 6.8mm
|Thread: Mystery rotating V block|
100% Union T & C Grinder
|Thread: Hand or Machine Reamers?|
For lathe work my dad always taught me to drill an undersize hole, followed by a single point boring tool, then finally the machine reamer.
If you miss out the boring tool stage, there is every chance your original drilled hole could have wandered off centre, the reamer will then just follow it with the same error. The single point boring tool will correct any hole wander prior to reaming.
|Thread: Has to be seen to be believed|
Looks like it's one of those special stayless firebox types !!!!!!!!
|Thread: What is it|
I dont know but I want one !
|Thread: A (new to me) Tom Senior Major ELT|
It nice to have the luxury of both a vertical and a horizontal machine if you have the space, the horizontals are very under rated these days but can be very handy for some jobs.
It looks to be a nice machine, keep us updated with some photo's as you get it sorted.
I noticed on one of your Alexander Engraver album photo's, that you have a Union cutter grinder, I too use one so if you need any information I have various manuals etc.
Edited By Phil P on 01/10/2019 20:54:35
I just remembered I have some photo's to inspire you.
I made a very simple wood pattern for the bracket casting, and all the machining was done on the horizontal milling machine including facing the top of the overarm to accept the bracket.
The big advantage of this setup is that you can very quickly set up to do horizontal work by pulling the overarm out, without needing to disturb the vertical head setup.
Also if the overarm was pushed right back, the original gear driven vertical head could still be fitted for very heavy work.
Edited By Phil P on 01/10/2019 19:48:13
Edited By Phil P on 01/10/2019 19:49:59
That overarm would be a perfect candidate for grafting a Bridgeport head onto it. I did something similar with my Adcock Shipley 1ES horizontal mill a few years ago and it made it into a very useful machine indeed.
|Thread: M&W rules now better...|
I seem to remember that those 6" rules with the dodgy end were given away as a freebie with one of the magazines a few years ago !!
My dad spotted the problem straight away on his, and told me to check mine out as well which was just as bad.
Maybe M&W were giving them away as a bad batch. Mine only gets used used on the metal cut off saw for rough measurements of bar stock.
|Thread: Poly-Vee Belts|
As with Vee Belts there are various different sizes of Poly Vee Belts.
Let me have your details via a PM and I will send you a PDF catalogue showing all the details.
|Thread: Zinc plating|
I will second that.
Many years ago my dad thought he was being clever by making the boiler lagging sheets for our Aveling & Porter steam roller from zinc coated sheet, he assumed it would last longer in that environment and it probably would have done.
Etch primer was not very common back then, and the nice new shiny black coach paint and pin striping all started peeling of within a few weeks !!
When we restored the Fowler road loco, we used blued steel sheet for lagging the cylinder block, that looked superb.
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