Member postings for Phil P

Hold the assembly in the lathe using the round column, and check the underside of the base with a DTI as you rotate it.

Phil

Just thinking aloud here......but is it possible to reverse it and fix the toolpost at the good end ?

Phil

I have two ball valves in series on my Myford, one is used to simply control the flow on / off, the other is downstream and is used to set the flow rate.

I found that with only one valve I was forever trying to get the flow rate right whenever it was moved. Also without a shut of valve the coolant drains back through the pump when it is switched off, then when you turn the pump on again you get a rush of air followed by coolant that splashes everywhere.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 29/08/2021 11:06:13

Vic

Get yourself some "Stellite" to use in your tangential toolholder, it lasts much longer before it needs sharpening again.
I use it all the time and occasionally give it a lick over with one of those plastic handled diamond files to keep it keen.

Phil

I have not seen a set of Sanderson castings in Bronze before, I have owned two sets of these and both of them are pretty poorly made cast iron ones, I will have quite a job on cleaning them up to a decent standard when I get round to building it.

I have found the build series, it was in "Brays Bench" Model Engineer starting 18 December 1998, and ran through till October 1999.

Phil

That looks like a Sanderson Beam Engine, I have a set of castings for one of those. I have the drawings in PDF format. I think I have a build article done by Stan Bray somewhere as well, I can have a look when I get home.

Meanwhile there are a few previous article on this formum which may help you, just do a search for them.

Phil

I have just sold my 1950 plunger framed BSA 350 B31 and my 1972 Honda XL250, both of which were really only suitable for one up riding and not very comfortable after about twenty miles or so.

With the proceeds I have bought a brand new 900cc Triumph T100 Bonneville which I am collecting tomorrow.

I can recommend one of these if you want something a bit retro but with a few mod cons as well.
They can be picked up second hand for around what your budget is.

Phil

I tried all the options of thickening the floor etc, but it still wobbled around, so I did what John Haine suggested earlier and cut some 3" diameter holes through the floor boards and made some solid steel slugs to sit just proud of the floor and sitting directly onto the concrete beneath, the tops of the steel slugs were counterbored in the centre so my machine jacking feet do not slip off. Also run a bead of sealant around the steel slug.

I have never had any more trouble.

Phil

Back in my Pre 65 trials riding days, a popular addition was to fit a VW Beetle tail pipe on the exhaust outlet.

That might be an easy option for you to try.

Phil

I just popped down to my local garage and they were more than happy to let me use their 10 ton press when I did my own Morris Minor head, I just made up a stepped mandrel to use as a tool under the press.

A few packets of biscuits was accepted in payment, with the promise I could use it anytime I need to.

Phil

Andy

I have sent you a PM, I need your email address.

Phil

That little tool looks like it is for sharpening a watchmakers graver.

The drill version allows the tool to be tipped sideways to add clearance, so its wheels are fore and aft as opposed to being side to side like the one in the photo. A graver just needs a simple flat producing on the end.

Phil

The only thing I came across that was M7x1 in the past was lambretta scooter cable adjusters.

My friend needed one tapping out and what was even more surprising was that I actually had a tap to lend him.

Phil

Hi Andy
I have the same machine with an original HS head.
The drawbar thread is as you suspect a 14.5mm Lownherz, the standard readily available 16mm collets will not fit.
If you can wait until I get back from holiday in just over a week, I can send you a proper drawing of the collets with all the thread details included etc.

My machine has a 1HP single phase motor for the main drive and I have never found it to be under powered for the work I do, if you can get a 2HP for similar money I would go for that.

I converted my HS head pulleys to Poly Vee, as the spindle was actually a bit too fast for what I needed, it has a 3 phase motor and I run it on an inverter.

Here is what I use for tramming, the three legs are set to the same height with a micrometer.

 

Hope this is of some help.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 21/05/2021 15:48:56

Edited By Phil P on 21/05/2021 16:00:14

Unless you are working to super precision limits, I would say a decent quality live centre will cover most of your work.

You can use it for the heavy cuts, and then swap to the dead centre for the finishing cuts if you wanted to.

The only big downside of a live centre is that it can be quite bulky and get in the way when turning small diameters, I quite often use a "Half dead centre" for those jobs.

When you get a live centre, just test it with a DTI to make sure it has no run out. You get what you pay for as with most tooling.

Phil

+1 for the Record Imp's

I have a larger 4½" one on a swivel base, and a couple of the smaller approx 2½" ones.

One of the smaller ones has its serrated jaws still, and the other one has some smooth steel jaws.
My main bench vice has solid aluminium jaws, I never have the need for the serrated ones for the work I do.

Phil

Nice job on the Eureka by the way.

Phil

Eureka Formentlastungsgerät

According to Google Translator

Oilite bushes are designed to fit a H7 tolerance reamed hole. There are various standards available but the H7 is the most common.

Phil

Or if you have an open hearth fire in your living room, you can chuck a few lengths of BDMS in before you go to bed and then leave it to cool slowly overnight and it should be nicely stress relieved in the morning.

Phil