Member postings for Phil P

Alan

Could I ask where you obtained the 1.2mm diameter rod please ?

I have some M1.2 studs to make myself.

Thanks

Phil

I bead blasted mine with a fine glass bead.

Phil

I sold mine on "Car & Classic" website.

Phil

I have the internally threaded collets for for both metric and imperial, and to be honest I find HSS screwed shank cutters are more than adequate for anything I need to do on that machine.
Mine is a Boley and Leinen which is the predecessor to the BCA mk2 and uses the same collets.

These machines are not made for hogging lots of metal off, and I have never felt the need to use carbide cutters on mine, I do use them on my Alexander milling machine when I need to shift a lot of metal quickly.

I would be thinking about the spindle and its bearings and whether you think they are up to the forces required to get the best out of carbide cutters. The BCA is a jig borer, and as such was designed for precision positioning of holes as opposed to true milling operations. Milling is OK but not really when you are trying to take heavy cuts. Also with carbide you would probably want to be running the spindle at a far greater speed than the machine will be happy with.

As mentioned above, the internally threaded collets are like hens teeth, it took me about three years to get my set complete, but they do "almost" guarantee that a cutter will not walk out of the collet.

Have a look here at some of the additional tolling I have made for mine.
https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=35949

Phil

Just for your interest, this is a genuine Tom Senior indexing & dividing head with tailstock.

I made a new spindle for it to use Burnerd multisize collets, and I use it on my Alexander Master Toolmaker milling machine.

Edited By Phil P on 11/03/2022 10:58:14

I have never tried it myself, but read an article a number of years ago where someone had converted a bicycle pedal crank into a shaper tool.

Phil

Bill

With blasting you would need to go over first with an abrasive grit such as Aluminium Oxide or Steel Grit, this will rough up the surface and make it all look the same depending on how you concentrate on each area.

This will leave the surface with lots of minute peaks and troughs which will collect dirt and look awful after a while, so the trick is to go over it all with a non abrasive such as Glass Bead or Steel Shot, this will close up all the peaks and troughs and leave you with a uniform surface finish.

Phil

PS..... I design automatic blast machines for my day job.

Bill

I have sent you a PM

Phil

A last resort for shutting down when the PC freezes, is to hold down the main power button for a few seconds.

Phil

My dad used to add a thin layer of thinners on top of the paint, I never heard him complain about the skin problem so it must work.

Phil

Yes they are Sanderson castings, I have a set just the same.

Phil

I too am sticking with the thin nut on top.

I don't care how efficient the arrangement is in theory, but if the full size engine I am building a model off uses it, then I will as well just so it that it appears true to prototype.

If I am designing something myself, I will use a modern self locking type nut by choice. I have designed machinery at work for over 33 years and in all that time have never needed to use two nuts on anything.

Phil

I have a green plastic belt on mine from Tony Griffiths on the "Lathes" website.

It has been on for over five years with no problems at all.

Phil

Hold the assembly in the lathe using the round column, and check the underside of the base with a DTI as you rotate it.

Phil

Just thinking aloud here......but is it possible to reverse it and fix the toolpost at the good end ?

Phil

I have two ball valves in series on my Myford, one is used to simply control the flow on / off, the other is downstream and is used to set the flow rate.

I found that with only one valve I was forever trying to get the flow rate right whenever it was moved. Also without a shut of valve the coolant drains back through the pump when it is switched off, then when you turn the pump on again you get a rush of air followed by coolant that splashes everywhere.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 29/08/2021 11:06:13

Vic

Get yourself some "Stellite" to use in your tangential toolholder, it lasts much longer before it needs sharpening again.
I use it all the time and occasionally give it a lick over with one of those plastic handled diamond files to keep it keen.

Phil

I have not seen a set of Sanderson castings in Bronze before, I have owned two sets of these and both of them are pretty poorly made cast iron ones, I will have quite a job on cleaning them up to a decent standard when I get round to building it.

I have found the build series, it was in "Brays Bench" Model Engineer starting 18 December 1998, and ran through till October 1999.

Phil

That looks like a Sanderson Beam Engine, I have a set of castings for one of those. I have the drawings in PDF format. I think I have a build article done by Stan Bray somewhere as well, I can have a look when I get home.

Meanwhile there are a few previous article on this formum which may help you, just do a search for them.

Phil

I have just sold my 1950 plunger framed BSA 350 B31 and my 1972 Honda XL250, both of which were really only suitable for one up riding and not very comfortable after about twenty miles or so.

With the proceeds I have bought a brand new 900cc Triumph T100 Bonneville which I am collecting tomorrow.

I can recommend one of these if you want something a bit retro but with a few mod cons as well.
They can be picked up second hand for around what your budget is.

Phil