Here is a list of all the postings Phil P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Windows 7 support ends|
I have just updated from Win 7 to Win 10, having previously checked to see which of my programs will work it told me that my Office 2003 is not going to, so I purchased a licence key from ebay for Office 2016, it was very expensive at just under a fiver.
I duly did the FREE update to Win 10, and so far everything that was working on 7 is still working on 10, including Office 2003 and a whole host of other older programs.
It was quite a painless procedure to do the update, and so far I am pleasantly surprised at how well I am getting on with Win 10 after all the bad hype. I think I will update my Office to 2016 though just to get the extra features now available.
I actually cloned my SSD onto another new one, then did the upgrade on the clone, so I still have the original Win 7 SSD in case it all went wrong.
|Thread: To bolt or not to bolt|
If as you say you have a solid concrete floor then I would say no you do not NEED to bolt it down.
My own S7 has some adjustable feet in the base lugs to allow me to level it up and ensure there is no rocking around.
|Thread: Problem with my downstairs ;)|
I get these type of nuts in at work fairly often, as stated above they are lock nuts but they always have a finer pitch than you you would see on a standard nut for that diameter. You can also buy the matching tab washers from the same place.
|Thread: Apologies for raising this again|
I lightened the flywheel on my Austin Seven Special many years ago, I used a spare crankshaft to set it up in the Harrison lathe and remove a few pounds of excess weight, it certainly helped with slicker gear changes and blipping the throttle when double de-clutching etc.
I also fitted a newly manufactured Phoenix Engineering crankshaft, this shows it set up in the lathe for hand lapping the taper between it and the flywheel.
I had already previously experienced a loose fly wheel prior to that, and did not want to repeat that again.
|Thread: Honda Brake Cable|
I cannot give you any specific help, but have you tried David Silver or John Oldfield for your Honda parts.
They were very good for supplying parts for my 1972 Honda XL250 rebuild.
|Thread: Normalizing cold rolled bright mild steel|
I keep meaning to chuck a few bits of bright mild steel in the living room fire, and then retrieve them the following morning when it has all cooled down and see how it machines.
Apparently that works but I need to see it for myself.
|Thread: Alexander master toolmaker|
When the power feed is already in neutral the trip lever will pass through the slot to prevent you manually crashing into it with the hand wheel feed.
When the power feed is engaged the trip lever will not pass through the slot until it has been pushed into neutral again.
|Thread: To use chuck or collets|
Your 3 jaw chuck will be fine if you can arrange things so that all the critical diameters are turned at one go without the need to remove it from the chuck.
The problems start when you have to re chuck a part that needs to be concentric, the 3 jaw is not good for that.
A 4 jaw chuck overcomes that problem, but is trickier to use until you get the hang of it.
My dad always taught me that if you only have one chuck, make sure it is a 4 jaw.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
I once had a similar problem on my Harrison L5A, I tried just about everything to no avail.
It eventually turned out to be a faulty cage in the front taper roller bearing, new bearings were fitted 25 years ago and it has been OK ever since.
|Thread: To use chuck or collets|
PS Where in West Yorkshire are you ?
Edited By Phil P on 11/01/2020 00:21:20
I thought you were just talking about 2MT collets sorry.
If you want to fit something like an ER milling collet chuck to the morse taper then yes you will need a drawbar to hold it in place and yes any make should work so long as it is 2MT.
However you would be much better off using one of the type that has an adapter that screws onto the spindle nose in place of the chuck, those are much more rigid and you still have the benefit of a full through bore up to the spindle bore diameter depending on the collet used.
The Myford collets are pushed into the taper using a special nut on the chuck thread, the same nut also withdraws the collet from the taper using a locating groove on the collet nose.
This means a long workpiece can pass right through the collet and spindle up to the max diameter of 1/2" (13mm)
I have in the last couple of years managed to obtain a full set of genuine 2MT Myford collets.
They are not cheap, but having said that they are very accurate and I am now wondering why I left it so long to get them. I use these in preference to a chuck every time if at all possible. I do have a Harrison lathe with a 1.5" hole in the spindle as well for bigger jobs, 99% of the time I use Burned Multisize collets on that and only very rarely fit a chuck on it.
Actually I think I am a "Colletaholic"
|Thread: Clock gear fix|
Certainly do not use silver solder for that job, you might distort the wheel if you get it too hot.
I have used Tix for soldering new teeth into musical box combs, it works a treat and is a lot stronger than normal soft solder, make sure to use the correct flux that comes with it though.
|Thread: Really basic lubrication question?|
Grease is generally used for slow moving assemblies such as Morris Minor suspension joints.
Oil tends to be used for faster moving things such as lathe spindle bearings.
Having said that there are no hard and fast rules, for instance the saddle lubrication on an Alexander milling machine must be lubricated by oil as the galleries are fed by wicks. Grease would just bung everything up and disaster would ensue. The same applies to Myford lathes, I always use oil and not grease on the slideways.
So it is really a matter of following manufacturers instructions, and if they are not available the design of the assembly should be checked to see how the lubricant gets to where it is needed.
Failing that ask someone one here if you need something more specific.
|Thread: Making metal flowers|
Nice job on the flowers. Have you seen this guys work
He has been on telly a few times.
|Thread: Alexander master toolmaker|
|Thread: Bolts & Screws using friction only to hold (or fluted)|
I am curious as to what you are trying to make here, would you tell us what the purpose of the assembly is please.
|Thread: Opening a Port|
You are correct, I was getting my Accu's muddled up with the DRO system I used to have. It is an Accuspark unit on the car.
I too have heard about some folks having reliability issues with them, but so far mine has been excellent, like I said I do carry a spare just in case.
I run an Accurite electronic ignition which is housed in the distributor but does away with the points and condenser.
It has been extremely reliable so far, but I do carry a spare distributor just in case. !!
It makes for a much smoother running engine with the added bonus of better fuel economy as well.
Some purists would not entertain the idea of electronics on a classic car though.
Why do you ask ?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.