Here is a list of all the postings Phil P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Is this an improvement?|
I am just wondering if the surface contact area between a wheel tooth and a roller would be sufficient to overcome the friction between the roller and its pin, so that it will revolve if you see what I mean.
It would be an interesting experiment to prove it either way though.
Are they for pipe threading ?
|Thread: Pultra P type spindle|
On my Putra 1770 I have two tailstocks available, the lever feed one takes standard 10mm Pultra collets the same as the headstock, but the screw feed tailstock takes the short version of the MT0. So they obviously used both in different situations.
I have never come across the setup in the original post before, I think it must be a one off.
Edited By Phil P on 17/02/2020 12:56:20
|Thread: Myford Super Seven help|
I somehow doubt it, but its possibly worth asking Myford if they know the answer.
Its not very good engineering practice to use the same part number for a changed part if it is not "Fit Form & Function" though.
Sorry I cannot be of more help.
|Thread: PayPal scam?|
That's exactly what I do as well, I also use a separate email address purely for online transactions and nothing else.
|Thread: Rack operated tailstock ?|
For anyone wondering what the Cowells capstan rack feed tailstock looks like, this is mine.
It took a long time to find one at an affordable price, I dont think they have been made for a lot of years now. There is one on ebay right now for just a tad under £300 !!!
I have added the stop collar at the rear end so it halts the spindle and trips the die head open at the correct depth.
Edited By Phil P on 07/02/2020 19:56:37
Edited By Phil P on 07/02/2020 19:58:24
Edited By Phil P on 07/02/2020 19:58:58
I use a standard screw feed tailstock 95% of the time on my Myford S7.
I also have a spare ML7 tailstock fitted with a Cowells rack feed attachment, I fit and use that instead when threading with a die head.
|Thread: Building a miniature router for inlay|
We used to own the full size engine back in the 70's, so I was on good terms with its new owner and he lent me one of the original emblems off the engine for a while.
I got a full size copy cast from it, and then used that as the pattern for the 1/4 size version on the engraver.
The model now belongs to yet another new owner of the full size engine, but I still have the full size copy of the emblem hanging on my wall as a memento.
I think we seem to have wandered of thread a bit with all this reminiscing about old times, sorry.
Here as promised are some photo's of the David Dowling 858 cutter grinder.
I have the original bill of sale for this and the engraving machine, the paperwork dates from 1957 and has survived intact through various owners of the machines which must be pretty rare these days.
And finally one of the actual engraving machine.
These can do 3D work up to a point. I used mine to copy some brass emblems for a 3" scale Ruston Lincoln Imp steam tractor.
Edited By Phil P on 02/02/2020 19:09:39
You should have got an email from me a while ago.
Another thought I had was to make a new spindle for the Dowling engraver so it will take parallel shank cutters.
I wondered about using ER11 collets, but I have a good stock of the taper shank cutters so never went any further with the idea. The dowling spindle is separate from the actual motor itself, so should not present too many problems in making one with a different nose. These are the bits of a spare spindle and housing I have.
As an aside, I have done a bit of routing for inlay on some of my Victorian musical box cases and lids, I had good results using a Proxxon drill and router kit.
I had a blonde moment earlier, the engraver is actually a model 731, I have contacted Alan and arranged to scan my paper copy of the manual to PDF tomorrow.
I will take a few photo's of the 858 cutter grinder and post them up later.
The David Dowling uses standard Taylor Hobson taper cutters which can often be found on ebay.
I have model 858A along with the correct cutter grinder that goes with it. I also have a PDF manual if you would like a copy.
|Thread: Rear parting|
There looks to be a lot of overhang on that setup, just be aware that the tool and its holder will flex when taking a cut.
This is my solution.
Edited By Phil P on 01/02/2020 22:24:24
|Thread: Question about Harrison lathe|
My Harrison L5A originally had a massive two speed three phase motor fitted.
I have since changed it for a three phase 1400 RPM 1.5kw motor and run it from a single to three phase inverter.
I was looking for the slower speeds on mine rather than the faster speeds.
I did have a single phase 1400 RPM motor on for a while, but it was nowhere near as smooth running as a three phase motor, and I was getting some of the vibrations showing up in the turned finish.
Edited By Phil P on 30/01/2020 17:07:12
|Thread: Windows 7 support ends|
I have just updated from Win 7 to Win 10, having previously checked to see which of my programs will work it told me that my Office 2003 is not going to, so I purchased a licence key from ebay for Office 2016, it was very expensive at just under a fiver.
I duly did the FREE update to Win 10, and so far everything that was working on 7 is still working on 10, including Office 2003 and a whole host of other older programs.
It was quite a painless procedure to do the update, and so far I am pleasantly surprised at how well I am getting on with Win 10 after all the bad hype. I think I will update my Office to 2016 though just to get the extra features now available.
I actually cloned my SSD onto another new one, then did the upgrade on the clone, so I still have the original Win 7 SSD in case it all went wrong.
|Thread: To bolt or not to bolt|
If as you say you have a solid concrete floor then I would say no you do not NEED to bolt it down.
My own S7 has some adjustable feet in the base lugs to allow me to level it up and ensure there is no rocking around.
|Thread: Problem with my downstairs ;)|
I get these type of nuts in at work fairly often, as stated above they are lock nuts but they always have a finer pitch than you you would see on a standard nut for that diameter. You can also buy the matching tab washers from the same place.
|Thread: Apologies for raising this again|
I lightened the flywheel on my Austin Seven Special many years ago, I used a spare crankshaft to set it up in the Harrison lathe and remove a few pounds of excess weight, it certainly helped with slicker gear changes and blipping the throttle when double de-clutching etc.
I also fitted a newly manufactured Phoenix Engineering crankshaft, this shows it set up in the lathe for hand lapping the taper between it and the flywheel.
I had already previously experienced a loose fly wheel prior to that, and did not want to repeat that again.
|Thread: Honda Brake Cable|
I cannot give you any specific help, but have you tried David Silver or John Oldfield for your Honda parts.
They were very good for supplying parts for my 1972 Honda XL250 rebuild.
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