Member postings for Phil P

You guys from West Yorkshire might like to consider joining a local club, I can highly recommend the Bradford club.

https://www.bradfordmes.uk/

We have members from all walks of life with many varied interests, not just railway loco's like a lot of clubs seem to concentrate on. Obviously things are on hold at the moment, but hopefully in a few months we can resume.

We have regular monthly meetings during the summer at various outdoor venues, and guest speakers during the winter months, along with a couple of auction nights where you can top up on junk tools and materials.

Phil

Br

Is your model Allchin actually 3/4 scale, or is it really 3/4" to the foot ? or 1/16 scale ?
Cherry Hill made a superb 1/16 scale version many years ago.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 12/01/2021 14:03:41

I have shown a few of my friends in the local model engineering club what can be done very quickly in 3D CAD and they are all totally amazed.

I used Autocad 2D for a lot of years before we transferred to Solidworks 3D at work in 2005, every now and then I have to make change on an old Autocad drawing and it beggars belief how we ever managed to produce anything with it.

Another 100% thumbs up for 3D from me.

Phil

Frost Auto restoration used to sell a powder coating dissolver but I cannot see it on the website now, they do have a product called "Tank Strip" that claims to remove any coating from any surface.

Phil

I dont know about anyone else, but I find those drawings with everything crammed onto a couple of sheets are really confusing and unclear.

In my job at work I have to produce sets of drawings for complex bespoke machines, and if I issued them in this format I would be shown the door pretty quickly. It is one sheet per part where I work, and that is how I do my own personal drawings as well.

I suppose model engineers are more tolerant of this kind of thing than is the case in an industrial background.

Phil

Brian

That one is a Pollitt & Wigzell called "Agnes" and is the very one I am currently building a 1/16 scale model of.

Phil

My rear toolpost is a QC one that has height adjustment so the extension of the tool blade can very easily and quickly be set to the correct height.
I find having the tool blade at an angle gives me an automatic top rake which certainly cuts better, and means the blade is very easy to keep sharp by cleaning up the end face only.
Each to their own though, if you find a horizontal blade suits you best, then I am not going to try and convert you.

Phil

PS.

I just noticed on your profile you are into Moggie Minors, what do you have ?.... I have a 1969 Traveller
I always fancied a "Black Bomber" as well, but still have my 1972 XL250.

Edited By Phil P on 04/01/2021 12:09:33

Edited By Phil P on 04/01/2021 12:10:33

Just for completeness here is the information on my other parting tool holder that takes a conventional HSS blade which is retained with a wedge.

These have given trouble free service for a few years now.

Phil

Hi Chris.

Welcome to the forum.
What part of Yorkshire are you from ?, It sounds like you would benefit from joining one of the local clubs.

Phil

I made a holder for an inserted tip parting blade that fits my QC rear toolpost on the Myford.

Here it is along with my drawing if it is of any interest.
I didn't bother with an angled cutter, I used a slitting saw set over at the angle I needed.
As all the cutting forces are upwards, I clamped the blade using a split at the bottom.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 31/12/2020 23:22:27

Edited By Phil P on 31/12/2020 23:23:52

Is Bernard Lundberg still alive ?

He came to see me many many years ago, but I have not heard anything about him for a long time now.

Phil

They will not correct any ovality in a bore like a true Delapena type hone would, being spring loaded they just follow what is already there.

Phil

Clive

Just had a read back through this thread and on page 1 you say that you are using your Guyson cabinet to blast at well over 100 psi. I would say that is way too high and you should normally be able to use half that pressure.

You may well accelerate the time taken to do the job, but the blast media breakdown rate will be terrible and you will use a lot more of it. You will also be causing a lot of internal wear to the gun and anything in contact with the moving blast media.

How do I know this ?.....Well I have been chief design engineer at Guyson's for nearly 33 years and I have picked up a few things along the way. My forte is designing the big automated and robotic stuff for production line work, but the basic principles are exactly the same as on the small hand cabinets.

One easy way of getting more from less so to speak, is to get a bigger or additional reservoir on the compressor.
It will not solve the problem entirely but will allow longer spells of blasting before waiting for the compressor to catch up.

I will soon need to get my own blasting facilities sorted out, when I retire I will lose my free access to all the equipment at work.

Phil

I just checked mine earlier this evening and it is definitely 1.5" bore. It looks to be original but I suppose someone could have bored out before I got it.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 26/12/2020 13:58:15

Edited By Phil P on 26/12/2020 13:58:47

Edited By Phil P on 26/12/2020 13:59:28

Martyn

The angle stated on the cutter is the tooth pressure angle and is more often than not either 20° or 14½°.

You will need to work out the cutter required from the finished diameter of your coupling and the number of teeth required on it, so it will be the DP (Diametral Pitch) number if using imperial cutters, or the M (Module) if if using metric.

Have you seen these by the way, it might save you some time.

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/categories/vintage-car-parts-miscellaneous-vernier-coupling

Jason...........

Have a look at the above link, you can see that on the Simms outer couplings the gap is parallel and the tooth is tapered, The inner coupling that sits between them has parallel teeth.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 26/12/2020 12:02:50

Jason......You just beat me to it with your correction 

Edited By Phil P on 26/12/2020 12:04:12

I had an "interesting" debate with an expert on one of the forums a few years ago about the radius grinding fixture.

The debate was on how one should apply the cut after each new pass on the grinding wheel the expert said that you apply the cut by advancing the table of the cutter grinder as you would in most other cases.

Mt argument was that if you do that the finished radius with get progressively smaller as you are moving the pivot point closer to the wheel.

This is the explanatory sketch I did at the time.

What is needed is a way of advancing the cutter holder forwards on the grinding fixture, the mk2 head has the tenon in line with the angled holder so that could be achieved, but I plan on making mine with a fine adjustment screw built into the design. That might be something you want to think about.

If you need an instruction manual for the radius attachment mk1 or mk2 let me know by PM.

Phil

This is the one fitted to my mk1 version.

Phil

Clive

Does this mean you have 2020 vision

Phil

Just been having a play around with Solidworks, this is what I had in mind.

The rear ones are slightly larger than the front ones. Both have 2mm high characters.