Member postings for paul rayner

just out of curiosity what speed do you run your edge finder at and why.

I run mine at either 600 or 1000 rpm, seems to flick off better at 1000 rpm, it's a vertex made unit, and my mill is a warco super major, so only 6 speeds,

Reason I ask is I have noticed on youtube there are some videos that appear to run them slower than this and others much much faster.

Interested in your thoughts I,m NOT an engineer by the way, just a man with a shed that likes to play

Paul

max grant

emmas spare room machine shop

steve summers

randy richards in the shop

robrenz

david wilks

mr factotum

john2478

trainman4602

go create hobby machine shop

just a few for you to be going on with

Edited By paul rayner on 07/08/2020 22:55:00

Jason B

yes I know, but I didn't want to pay £14 + vat + postage just for the measurements for 3 components. I just thought somebody on here could help, If I have to then that's the route I may well have to go.

regards

Paul

Hi all

I bought an old battered stuart no 4 a while ago that needs a lot of tlc, as a bit of a learning project. has anybody got the old imperial drawings that i could borrow/purchase as I need the correct dimensions of the con rod, eccentric & strap.(these seriously need remaking)

I have the drawings for the no 9 which I'm lead to believe are essentially the same engine albeit horizontal, so I'm assuming the rest crank, cylinder etc will be the same. but I don't think the con rod & the eccentric strap would be.

thank you

regards

Paul

as is happens I've just been watching this guy building his boiler, fittings etc

doing a good job too (in my inexperienced opinion)

**LINK**

regards

Paul

I've spent a couple of hours in the shed this morning faffing about and I removed the key. There was a small burr where the key protrudes into the cavity? I removed this with emery cloth, and tried the offending collets again, same results as before. although with 4 of them with a little bit of wiggling & waggleing I managed to get them in far enough for the screw to engage and pull the collet in. So it seems Pete Rimmer is right and my draw tube is tight.

On reflection of this, I'm coming to the conclusion it's not worth my while to mess about altering the chuck as all my other collets are fine. And I don't think altering the offending collets to suit would be something I could do. I may as well just buy some more imperial ones from arc or wherever, just for the very rare occasion I may use them.

plus my back stop won't fit as it's a different thread

Unless somebodies got an Idea they are always welcome

thank you for all the replys

regards

Paul

thats brilliant very unusual

i'm not saying it will work but sometimes if you turn them upside down you can get a few more years out of them

Hi all

Just to add, i've measured some more collets with a mitutoyo digital calipers and got these results-

arc brand new collet 1.2485" fits

unknown brand old imperial collet 1.2485" fits

taiwan imp collet 1.2480" fits

all the hardinge collets that don't fit 1.2490" with the exception of 1 which measures 1.2480" and it fits

the few hardinge collets in picture 2 that do fit all measure 1.2480"

I have also noticed that my collet stop will not fit any of the hardinge collets, but will fit all the others so i'm assuming the internal thread is slightly different?

regards

Paul

Hi all

I have a little problem....

A while ago I purchased a 5c collet holder from Arc and don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with it. all of my collets fit from all different makes and sources etc except these-

which as you can see are a good make. but these-

which are made by hardinge but stamped differently DO FIT.

the problem being, just after the threaded portion at the bottom, the ones that don't fit are 0.02mm bigger which is stopping the thread from engaging.

hope iv'e explained that ok.

So I need to take off 0.02 or there abouts off the bottom of these colletts.

how would you go about it. I've about a 15 imperial ones that need doing

thanks for any ideas/ advice

regards

Paul

Bo'sun

check your mail

Jason thank you, yes I have learned loads

Baz thank you. the base below the steel is a bit of zenith kitchen worktop off cut and that is sat on a piece of mahogany that was part of an old kitchen cabinet I pulled out a while back.

regards

Paul

a brace of muncasters finally finished.

sorry Jason but ended up Sourcing some normal nuts from a local supplier as Polly were waiting to put an order in so had no stock. and the german firm wanted 40 Euros for the few I wanted inc postage which i thought was excessive. It's been a learning curve for me so don't look too close, I need to make another exhaust as on re assembly I broke one, and I definitely need to read how not to paint a locomotive. For any that are interested I think it has cost me around £90 to £100 to make these 2 engines that includes the fly wheels, fastners, paint, a couple of reamers I didn't have all the rest is what I already had lying around. may I take this opportunity to thank you publicly Jason and all the others with the help and advice along my journey.

regards

Paul

yer thats what I was thinking.

I did reply earlier on my phone but it didn't come through for some reason.

thank you

regards

Paul

that were a quick reply!

yes it is one of Lee's castings and nice to machine too

Bit late to just skim it, I'm 0.35 over 20mm now so I will stop and give it some thought after what you said and looking at it. I was going to take it down to 16mm. but bigger looks better?

regarding the length what are your thoughts on 26mm? then you would only have a tiny bit sticking out at the end and a small gap at the bearing for a bit of float.

regards

Paul

A couple of queries for you Jason if you don't mind

I've started to machine the fly wheel and notice there is no dimension for the hub diameter. Also in the drawing the figure given is 16mm for overall hub length, is this correct? reason I ask is, in the pictures & videos it looks to be more and I was also thinking there would be rather a large gap between the bearing and the fly wheel. or am I talking rubbish?

have a look at Harold Halls site he has a build log for the 10v with lots of useful tips and plans for work holding jigs etc.

**LINK**

regards

Paul

whats up with you all, arc is providing this forum and the mags a service and revenue. yes he is getting advertising from it ,but that business. his company I have personally found is second to none, not only Ketan but all his staff will go out of there way to help you even if they point you to one of there competitors and do not benefit form a sale themselves. Jason & Neil may or may not have had freebies, but so what they were used to contribute to the magazine. which before you all start moaning and groaning just think we all started at some time. and any help I think is great for the beginner as you all know it's not a cheap hobby.

How come nobody's having a dig at chesters readers tips where they receive a £30 voucher

as far as I'm concerned Ketan,Neil & Jason keep on doing what you are doing. take no notice of the jealous buggers