Here is a list of all the postings paul rayner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ME magazine late again|
mine arrived on Saturday
|Thread: testing stepper a motor|
thank you for your reply's.
I' did test it and it was ok. re installed it and the gear train would turn with fingers (it wouldn't before).
Turned on the power and it did it's thing like they do and there was a bit of a clunk!!!!
same error code came up so I guess it is the sensor.
anyway To remove it I will have to take 3/4 of the printer in bits (I'm not going to do that)
I've spent all day on it and you have to draw the line somewhere.
So it's going on ebay, with the spare cartridges I have, as they are £100 a pop new.
thanks for all your help
I have a poorly printer and according to the manual the fault is a stepper motor or a sensor.
How do you go about testing a stepper motor? In idiots terms would be appreciated as I've no idea how to go about it.
I do have a multimeter
Pics of motor below
It is from a HP laser printer and the part is (after a quick search) a bit thin on the ground in the UK, but there seems to be quite a lot about in the USA. Which could end up being quite expensive with the shipping.
Thanks in advance for all reply's
|Thread: Delay to Issue 299|
Hurray, It's just dropped through letter box.
ME 4654 just dropped through the letter box, but still no sign of MEW 299.
are they supplied by the same shipping/printing company? seems a bit odd.
I still have not received my 299 of MEW issue either,
I have only just received my copy 4653 of ME today!
I'm only in yorkshire not in the back of beyond.
should I get intouch?
|Thread: edge finder speed|
just out of curiosity what speed do you run your edge finder at and why.
I run mine at either 600 or 1000 rpm, seems to flick off better at 1000 rpm, it's a vertex made unit, and my mill is a warco super major, so only 6 speeds,
Reason I ask is I have noticed on youtube there are some videos that appear to run them slower than this and others much much faster.
Interested in your thoughts I,m NOT an engineer by the way, just a man with a shed that likes to play
|Thread: Good YouTube videos|
emmas spare room machine shop
randy richards in the shop
go create hobby machine shop
just a few for you to be going on with
|Thread: Interesting video about skinner governor|
Edited By paul rayner on 07/08/2020 22:55:00
|Thread: stuart no 4 drawings|
yes I know, but I didn't want to pay £14 + vat + postage just for the measurements for 3 components. I just thought somebody on here could help, If I have to then that's the route I may well have to go.
I bought an old battered stuart no 4 a while ago that needs a lot of tlc, as a bit of a learning project. has anybody got the old imperial drawings that i could borrow/purchase as I need the correct dimensions of the con rod, eccentric & strap.(these seriously need remaking)
I have the drawings for the no 9 which I'm lead to believe are essentially the same engine albeit horizontal, so I'm assuming the rest crank, cylinder etc will be the same. but I don't think the con rod & the eccentric strap would be.
|Thread: Copper boiler plate flanging, or not?|
as is happens I've just been watching this guy building his boiler, fittings etc
doing a good job too (in my inexperienced opinion)
|Thread: hardinge 5c collets|
I've spent a couple of hours in the shed this morning faffing about and I removed the key. There was a small burr where the key protrudes into the cavity? I removed this with emery cloth, and tried the offending collets again, same results as before. although with 4 of them with a little bit of wiggling & waggleing I managed to get them in far enough for the screw to engage and pull the collet in. So it seems Pete Rimmer is right and my draw tube is tight.
On reflection of this, I'm coming to the conclusion it's not worth my while to mess about altering the chuck as all my other collets are fine. And I don't think altering the offending collets to suit would be something I could do. I may as well just buy some more imperial ones from arc or wherever, just for the very rare occasion I may use them.
plus my back stop won't fit as it's a different thread
Unless somebodies got an Idea they are always welcome
thank you for all the replys
|Thread: Lamp Post Engine|
thats brilliant very unusual
|Thread: Spare parts.|
i'm not saying it will work but sometimes if you turn them upside down you can get a few more years out of them
|Thread: hardinge 5c collets|
Just to add, i've measured some more collets with a mitutoyo digital calipers and got these results-
arc brand new collet 1.2485" fits
unknown brand old imperial collet 1.2485" fits
taiwan imp collet 1.2480" fits
all the hardinge collets that don't fit 1.2490" with the exception of 1 which measures 1.2480" and it fits
the few hardinge collets in picture 2 that do fit all measure 1.2480"
I have also noticed that my collet stop will not fit any of the hardinge collets, but will fit all the others so i'm assuming the internal thread is slightly different?
I have a little problem....
A while ago I purchased a 5c collet holder from Arc and don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with it. all of my collets fit from all different makes and sources etc except these-
which as you can see are a good make. but these-
which are made by hardinge but stamped differently DO FIT.
the problem being, just after the threaded portion at the bottom, the ones that don't fit are 0.02mm bigger which is stopping the thread from engaging.
hope iv'e explained that ok.
So I need to take off 0.02 or there abouts off the bottom of these colletts.
how would you go about it. I've about a 15 imperial ones that need doing
thanks for any ideas/ advice
|Thread: Old School Projects|
check your mail
|Thread: Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine|
Jason thank you, yes I have learned loads
Baz thank you. the base below the steel is a bit of zenith kitchen worktop off cut and that is sat on a piece of mahogany that was part of an old kitchen cabinet I pulled out a while back.
a brace of muncasters finally finished.
sorry Jason but ended up Sourcing some normal nuts from a local supplier as Polly were waiting to put an order in so had no stock. and the german firm wanted 40 Euros for the few I wanted inc postage which i thought was excessive. It's been a learning curve for me so don't look too close, I need to make another exhaust as on re assembly I broke one, and I definitely need to read how not to paint a locomotive. For any that are interested I think it has cost me around £90 to £100 to make these 2 engines that includes the fly wheels, fastners, paint, a couple of reamers I didn't have all the rest is what I already had lying around. may I take this opportunity to thank you publicly Jason and all the others with the help and advice along my journey.
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