Member postings for paul rayner

mine arrived on Saturday

Hi all

thank you for your reply's.

I' did test it and it was ok. re installed it and the gear train would turn with fingers (it wouldn't before).

Turned on the power and it did it's thing like they do and there was a bit of a clunk!!!!

same error code came up so I guess it is the sensor.

anyway To remove it I will have to take 3/4 of the printer in bits (I'm not going to do that)

I've spent all day on it and you have to draw the line somewhere.

So it's going on ebay, with the spare cartridges I have, as they are £100 a pop new.

thanks for all your help

regards

Paul

Hi all

I have a poorly printer and according to the manual the fault is a stepper motor or a sensor.

How do you go about testing a stepper motor? In idiots terms would be appreciated as I've no idea how to go about it.

I do have a multimeter

Pics of motor below

It is from a HP laser printer and the part is (after a quick search) a bit thin on the ground in the UK, but there seems to be quite a lot about in the USA. Which could end up being quite expensive with the shipping.

Thanks in advance for all reply's

regards

Paul

Hurray, It's just dropped through letter box.

Hi all

ME 4654 just dropped through the letter box, but still no sign of MEW 299.

are they supplied by the same shipping/printing company? seems a bit odd.

regards

Paul

I still have not received my 299 of MEW issue either,

I have only just received my copy 4653 of ME today!

I'm only in yorkshire not in the back of beyond.

should I get intouch?

just out of curiosity what speed do you run your edge finder at and why.

I run mine at either 600 or 1000 rpm, seems to flick off better at 1000 rpm, it's a vertex made unit, and my mill is a warco super major, so only 6 speeds,

Reason I ask is I have noticed on youtube there are some videos that appear to run them slower than this and others much much faster.

Interested in your thoughts I,m NOT an engineer by the way, just a man with a shed that likes to play

Paul

max grant

emmas spare room machine shop

steve summers

randy richards in the shop

robrenz

david wilks

mr factotum

john2478

trainman4602

go create hobby machine shop

just a few for you to be going on with

Edited By paul rayner on 07/08/2020 22:55:00

Jason B

yes I know, but I didn't want to pay £14 + vat + postage just for the measurements for 3 components. I just thought somebody on here could help, If I have to then that's the route I may well have to go.

regards

Paul

Hi all

I bought an old battered stuart no 4 a while ago that needs a lot of tlc, as a bit of a learning project. has anybody got the old imperial drawings that i could borrow/purchase as I need the correct dimensions of the con rod, eccentric & strap.(these seriously need remaking)

I have the drawings for the no 9 which I'm lead to believe are essentially the same engine albeit horizontal, so I'm assuming the rest crank, cylinder etc will be the same. but I don't think the con rod & the eccentric strap would be.

thank you

regards

Paul

as is happens I've just been watching this guy building his boiler, fittings etc

doing a good job too (in my inexperienced opinion)

**LINK**

regards

Paul

I've spent a couple of hours in the shed this morning faffing about and I removed the key. There was a small burr where the key protrudes into the cavity? I removed this with emery cloth, and tried the offending collets again, same results as before. although with 4 of them with a little bit of wiggling & waggleing I managed to get them in far enough for the screw to engage and pull the collet in. So it seems Pete Rimmer is right and my draw tube is tight.

On reflection of this, I'm coming to the conclusion it's not worth my while to mess about altering the chuck as all my other collets are fine. And I don't think altering the offending collets to suit would be something I could do. I may as well just buy some more imperial ones from arc or wherever, just for the very rare occasion I may use them.

plus my back stop won't fit as it's a different thread

Unless somebodies got an Idea they are always welcome

thank you for all the replys

regards

Paul

thats brilliant very unusual

i'm not saying it will work but sometimes if you turn them upside down you can get a few more years out of them

Hi all

Just to add, i've measured some more collets with a mitutoyo digital calipers and got these results-

arc brand new collet 1.2485" fits

unknown brand old imperial collet 1.2485" fits

taiwan imp collet 1.2480" fits

all the hardinge collets that don't fit 1.2490" with the exception of 1 which measures 1.2480" and it fits

the few hardinge collets in picture 2 that do fit all measure 1.2480"

I have also noticed that my collet stop will not fit any of the hardinge collets, but will fit all the others so i'm assuming the internal thread is slightly different?

regards

Paul

Hi all

I have a little problem....

A while ago I purchased a 5c collet holder from Arc and don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with it. all of my collets fit from all different makes and sources etc except these-

which as you can see are a good make. but these-

which are made by hardinge but stamped differently DO FIT.

the problem being, just after the threaded portion at the bottom, the ones that don't fit are 0.02mm bigger which is stopping the thread from engaging.

hope iv'e explained that ok.

So I need to take off 0.02 or there abouts off the bottom of these colletts.

how would you go about it. I've about a 15 imperial ones that need doing

thanks for any ideas/ advice

regards

Paul

Bo'sun

check your mail

Jason thank you, yes I have learned loads

Baz thank you. the base below the steel is a bit of zenith kitchen worktop off cut and that is sat on a piece of mahogany that was part of an old kitchen cabinet I pulled out a while back.

regards

Paul

a brace of muncasters finally finished.

sorry Jason but ended up Sourcing some normal nuts from a local supplier as Polly were waiting to put an order in so had no stock. and the german firm wanted 40 Euros for the few I wanted inc postage which i thought was excessive. It's been a learning curve for me so don't look too close, I need to make another exhaust as on re assembly I broke one, and I definitely need to read how not to paint a locomotive. For any that are interested I think it has cost me around £90 to £100 to make these 2 engines that includes the fly wheels, fastners, paint, a couple of reamers I didn't have all the rest is what I already had lying around. may I take this opportunity to thank you publicly Jason and all the others with the help and advice along my journey.

regards

Paul