Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Old School Drawing Exercises and 2D CAD|
I did a two-rail sweep (in MoI) to create the spokes.
Draw two curves to represent the spoke outline with an elipse at one end. Sweep said elipse along both curves and it will scale in accordance with the distance between the curves.
If Fusion 360 doesn't have that feature, then you should be able to Loft a number of various sized/positioned elipses to get what you are after.
I just traced a bit & eyeballed the rest.
Whoops, a typo there! Should be X34.334, the same as Gary's.
I get them at: X33.334, Y-63 as laid out in my video with the small circles centered on the XY axis lines.
I made a video that I hope makes it a bit clearer than my not-so-clear post.
I start by having the basics already laid out and first show how my CAD can quite quickly do the 50mm & 15mm arcs that link the circles that are on screen.
I then draw the horizontal line at some random length and offset a copy of it by 100mm below.
Next comes the actual point of the video, in the form of a 91mm radius circle centered on the right hand circle of 9mm radius to derive the intersection point we need to centre a 100mm tangent arc betwee the top line and the 9mm radius circle.
Edited By blowlamp on 22/07/2020 11:31:51
To get the right intersection point I used a parallel line offset 100mm from the horizontal line and struck an arc of 91mm centered on the lower/right circle - its radius being 9mm which, when added together gives 100mm and is the required radius to give tangency between the top line and the rightmost circle.
|Thread: Myford Apron Dovetail Damage|
You might be as well to check the saddle for twist if it's had a knock.
Place it on the lathe bed with a finger resting lightly in the middle to keep it from rocking, whilst tapping in each corner with your best knuckle. Any area that gives other than a dull thud when this is done is probably not in full contact with the bed and will need sorting out.
|Thread: CNC dedicated mill or CNC converted mill?|
Plus 1 for a Denford Triac.
They're a good machine of about the capacity you're looking for and can be tweaked quite easily to get more out of them.
I haven't systematically done any tests for accuracy, but I think I'm getting around about +/- 0.01mm on the parts I make on mine.
I've added a counterweight to the head on mine for less stress on the stepper motor drive and I've also added a spacer between the column and base to give me more working height.
Mine is running Mach 3, but I want to upgrade to PlanetCNC as soon as possible as that's the controller I use on my lathe and I'm very pleased with it.
|Thread: Vectric Vcarve upgrade to 10.5|
This Vectric thread milling video came up in my suggestions whilst browsing the tube.
|Thread: Any body with experience of CNC PLC Controllers DDCSV 1.1 2.1 3.1 RMHV 2.1|
If you already have a suitable RaspberryPi then PlanetCNC could work for you.
I use a Windows & PlanetCNC setup and I have no complaints at all with it. I feel it would be a more flexible solution than a DDCSV, but of course you'd still need a monitor & keyboard.
|Thread: Myford S7 Cutting Barrel Shaped Cylinders|
No, they're OK milled as long as the cutter's sharp and you get a clean finish you'll be fine. Infact you're better off milling the sliding part anyway as it's easier to scrape because the surface isn't as skiddy under the scraper.
Provided your saddle isn't too worn, it's perfectly possible to skim the worn face.
To keep it simple you should try to maintain the current 'step' measurement between the sliding (worn) face and that face which the apron is bolted to. This is to ensure minimal misalignment with the rack and leadscrew.
If your 'step' measurement is currently 0.5" from face to face and you skim off 0.008", then you also remove the same amount from the saddle mounting face too. The same goes for the rear of the saddle, where its gib strip locates.
Once machined, a lick with the scraper would assure a better fit.
|Thread: Coronavirus, advice from ME|
Only when I saw on their web page: "They have determined that several features have now changed; in particular, more information is available about mortality rates (low overall)". I thought they were saying overall mortality rates were low.
You can rest assured that, like you, I'll stop trying to understand what words mean and instead trust the word of polititians and the likes of Neil Ferguson and base my future on it.
Sorry if I interrupted the simple language you must be listening to on the daily news.
Am I missing something here?
How can a gov decide to reduce the fundamental threat status of Covid-19 (months ago!) while it's still claiming and acting as if we're in deep danger from it?
That link is to a government website and amongst other things states that: "As of 19 March 2020, COVID-19 is no longer considered to be a high consequence infectious disease (HCID) in the UK."... and ..."They have determined that several features have now changed; in particular, more information is available about mortality rates (low overall)".
They're the gov's own words, so where's the conspiracy theory there?
Keeping the country on lockdown for months despite this hugely downgraded 'threat' makes no sense to me unless something else is going on.
If I'm misunderstanding something then I think they need to make their message clearer for people like me.
Do you have a link I could look at?
Here's some advice from me: Read this government web page.
|Thread: Part breakout /fixturing|
You could cut right through, but leave a few small & thin holding tabs to keep the part in place.
The next stage would be to generate a toolpath that cuts away those tabs, but before running the code, apply some hot-melt glue in the already cut areas to provide support whilst the tabs are cut.
So similar to you own idea except no need to grind the the other side to release the part.
|Thread: Old School Drawing Exercises and 2D CAD|
Drawn with three arcs and it's not too far out, using SODs clue about the 1.5" arc.
Edited By blowlamp on 03/07/2020 16:16:09
My best guess for the centre location of the 1.5" rad arc is at about 2.5" to the right & 1.5" down from the top/left corner. I'm suspecting a 0.625" rad arc at the top and a 3.125" rad arc at the bottom to join all three together tangentially.
Easy in CAD whichever way you do it.
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