Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: No 4407 More Errors|
I get that angle at 77 degrees by tracing over it.
|Thread: Emco Mill bent spindle mystery|
I think John means that the bearing arrangement is upside down to how it should be, for best effect.
I must agree that it is a poor design thought.
|Thread: Best way to improve fit of main spindle quill in casting (long)|
From what you say, it's beginning to sound like it might have been inaccurately machined at the factory.
Before doing much else, it would seem sensible to establish for sure if it is worn or just oversized from new.
If it turns out that you've got a perfectly circular and parallel bore that is merely too big, you're risking quite a lot by attempting to sleeve it and this is why I say have a look at making a new quill to fit.
At worst, it would only be a waste of your time and a little money if it didn't work out.
What kind of bearing arrangement does it have - is it a needle-roller lower bearing by any chance?
Is that looking from the front or the side and does the quill move freely?
I'm just trying to get feel for where the alignment errors are.
Is the machine usable (to your satisfaction) with the quill clamp nipped down enough to remove play, but still allow free movement, i.e. does the bore return to a true circle?
If it does, then I'm thinking you could leave it in this semi-permanent state and make some other arrangement to lock the quill when you need to.
It would save a lot of work and could be used as a means of taking up any wear in the future.
You've done the hardest part in making the spindle, in my opinion
Clock your new quill in the four jaw and run the free end a fixed steady to machine each bearing seat, whilst maintaining alignment.
There is a few ways to do the rack depending on the equipment at your disposal.
You could use that between centres boring bar in the lathe to cut the teeth with a bought or home made fly-cutter (form tool).
You could use the milling machine itself - rough the teeth with a small end mill and finish with a suitably shaped D-bit type of cutter
You could use a shaping machine.
Get a friend to do it
Is the bore of the casting worn, or was it machined oversize - maybe even bored with the clamp bolt nipped down, thus making a tapered bore?
Anyway, if the bore is oversize but parallel, I'd be inclined to look at making a new quill rather than sleeving the casting. Fitting a sleeve could be hard to do and have it stay in position, if it's got to be split for the purpose of clamping.
|Thread: Classified Adds|
For me, clicking the green Classified button at the top of this page causes things to appear with the ads scrambled.
You could try this in Internet Explorer 9, because it works on my Windows 7 system.
Press Alt+X to access the Tools menu and select F12 developer tools.
Access Document Mode, which is the last option on the menu bar and change it to Internet Explorer 8 standards.
Press F12 to exit and check if it's done the trick.
|Thread: New Viewer for MEW|
I'm on Windows 7 64 bit, but using Internet Explorer 9 in 32 bit mode without a problem to view the sample Digital Issues.
Foxit PDF reader is good and free if anyone is looking for such a thing.
Maybe it might be worth updating video card drivers from the manufacturers website to get the latest and greatest version and see if it helps?
I don't think Windows Update always retrieves the newest versions and I've had problems in the past that, in my case, have been sorted by going to the nvidia website.
Could it be that the Adobe Flash thingy needs updating on some systems?
I know it doesn't work correctly on 64 bit systems though.
|Thread: I need a mill ? Manual or CNC??|
It's a good point Rod, but it's possible to do things differently with CNC and drilling can be a good example.
For instance, much of the time it's far easier and quicker to use an endmill for hole drilling. This can done by defining the hole as a pocket and letting the CAM system take care of all the maths.
So if you've got a plate with say 5, 6, 6.6 and 10.2mm holes in it, you can use a 4mm endmill/slotdril to cut them all without changing tools, with no worry about different length drills.
|Thread: Free drawings|
Is that THE Leighton Buzzard Swimming Club ?
|Thread: Oil or Grease?|
OK, but it may help to remember that grease is just oil that has been thickened in consistencey to help it stay put.
So if you can put a film of oil on something and have it stay there, why would you use grease?
All I'm arguing is that a thin layer of oil is sufficient to keep your chuck running smooth, without the tendency for swarf to stick.
I agree with those that advocate dry(ish) lubricants for this application.
Well naturally it's your call, but if you bore say a brass bush in your chuck, you'll get a lot of swarf accumulating on the inside which will work its way towards the scroll. Once it's there it sticks to the grease and is carried around by the scroll when the job's released.
Could that grease be for corrosion protection during transport?
I don't think any grease should be used on the scroll or jaws because it will hold on to the swarf.
Perhaps one of these Teflon lubricants that spray on and evaporate would be OK though.
In my experience, Copper Grease dries out quite quickly to a leave a paste that just gums things up if used as a conventional grease. It is a good anti-sieze compound and that's what I use it for.
|Thread: Free drawings|
I'm plumping for a reinforced gusset.
|Thread: Oil or Grease?|
I wouldn't recommend Copper Grease for lubricating a chuck as it's really an anti-sieze compound for things like exhaust bolts and wheel nuts.
Surely just a clean to remove the chips, followed by the wipe of an oily rag should do to provide enough lube to keep it running smoothly?
|Thread: Tank Tracks|
Get thee behind me, Satan!
Edited By blowlamp on 24/06/2011 23:04:23
|Thread: Something to ponder 01|
Never having had more than a passing interest, let alone built a steam engine. my knowledge is limited to say the least.
However, I believe that the engine does not make the same quantity of steam when at rest, because no draught is created over the fire by the exhaust steam.
So my answer to Question 1 is that the energy is dissipated by the act of heating and moving the surrounding atmosphere from the release of the steam. It's only necessary to dump the steam at the rate it's being produced at that instant in time to prevent a constant increase in boiler pressure.
As a stab in the dark for Question 2, I'd say that any heat loss would be detrimental to it's efficiency, particularly if condensation occurs somewhere in the system.
|Thread: Anyone here tried ViaCad ?|
I have ViaCAD so I hope I can help you.
Are you drawing way off to one side of the origin by any chance (Menu > View > Show Axis, if not visible)? If so, press one of the following keys ( a,s,d,f,g), so that the view changes until nothing is visible.
Right click the mouse and select Zoom All - you **should** have something onscreen now that can be rotated and zoomed etc.
Remember that it's possible to draw a couple of items 0.01mm in size that are 999999999mm's apart, so they're easy to lose if you've zoomed out a long way!
Keeping things close to the origin gives an easy reference to aim for when panning and zooming.
I'll send you a PM so you can email me a test file if you want.
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