Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Classified Adds|
For me, clicking the green Classified button at the top of this page causes things to appear with the ads scrambled.
You could try this in Internet Explorer 9, because it works on my Windows 7 system.
Press Alt+X to access the Tools menu and select F12 developer tools.
Access Document Mode, which is the last option on the menu bar and change it to Internet Explorer 8 standards.
Press F12 to exit and check if it's done the trick.
|Thread: New Viewer for MEW|
I'm on Windows 7 64 bit, but using Internet Explorer 9 in 32 bit mode without a problem to view the sample Digital Issues.
Foxit PDF reader is good and free if anyone is looking for such a thing.
Maybe it might be worth updating video card drivers from the manufacturers website to get the latest and greatest version and see if it helps?
I don't think Windows Update always retrieves the newest versions and I've had problems in the past that, in my case, have been sorted by going to the nvidia website.
Could it be that the Adobe Flash thingy needs updating on some systems?
I know it doesn't work correctly on 64 bit systems though.
|Thread: I need a mill ? Manual or CNC??|
It's a good point Rod, but it's possible to do things differently with CNC and drilling can be a good example.
For instance, much of the time it's far easier and quicker to use an endmill for hole drilling. This can done by defining the hole as a pocket and letting the CAM system take care of all the maths.
So if you've got a plate with say 5, 6, 6.6 and 10.2mm holes in it, you can use a 4mm endmill/slotdril to cut them all without changing tools, with no worry about different length drills.
|Thread: Free drawings|
Is that THE Leighton Buzzard Swimming Club ?
|Thread: Oil or Grease?|
OK, but it may help to remember that grease is just oil that has been thickened in consistencey to help it stay put.
So if you can put a film of oil on something and have it stay there, why would you use grease?
All I'm arguing is that a thin layer of oil is sufficient to keep your chuck running smooth, without the tendency for swarf to stick.
I agree with those that advocate dry(ish) lubricants for this application.
Well naturally it's your call, but if you bore say a brass bush in your chuck, you'll get a lot of swarf accumulating on the inside which will work its way towards the scroll. Once it's there it sticks to the grease and is carried around by the scroll when the job's released.
Could that grease be for corrosion protection during transport?
I don't think any grease should be used on the scroll or jaws because it will hold on to the swarf.
Perhaps one of these Teflon lubricants that spray on and evaporate would be OK though.
In my experience, Copper Grease dries out quite quickly to a leave a paste that just gums things up if used as a conventional grease. It is a good anti-sieze compound and that's what I use it for.
|Thread: Free drawings|
I'm plumping for a reinforced gusset.
|Thread: Oil or Grease?|
I wouldn't recommend Copper Grease for lubricating a chuck as it's really an anti-sieze compound for things like exhaust bolts and wheel nuts.
Surely just a clean to remove the chips, followed by the wipe of an oily rag should do to provide enough lube to keep it running smoothly?
|Thread: Tank Tracks|
Get thee behind me, Satan!
Edited By blowlamp on 24/06/2011 23:04:23
|Thread: Something to ponder 01|
Never having had more than a passing interest, let alone built a steam engine. my knowledge is limited to say the least.
However, I believe that the engine does not make the same quantity of steam when at rest, because no draught is created over the fire by the exhaust steam.
So my answer to Question 1 is that the energy is dissipated by the act of heating and moving the surrounding atmosphere from the release of the steam. It's only necessary to dump the steam at the rate it's being produced at that instant in time to prevent a constant increase in boiler pressure.
As a stab in the dark for Question 2, I'd say that any heat loss would be detrimental to it's efficiency, particularly if condensation occurs somewhere in the system.
|Thread: Anyone here tried ViaCad ?|
I have ViaCAD so I hope I can help you.
Are you drawing way off to one side of the origin by any chance (Menu > View > Show Axis, if not visible)? If so, press one of the following keys ( a,s,d,f,g), so that the view changes until nothing is visible.
Right click the mouse and select Zoom All - you **should** have something onscreen now that can be rotated and zoomed etc.
Remember that it's possible to draw a couple of items 0.01mm in size that are 999999999mm's apart, so they're easy to lose if you've zoomed out a long way!
Keeping things close to the origin gives an easy reference to aim for when panning and zooming.
I'll send you a PM so you can email me a test file if you want.
|Thread: Explorer 9|
A snip of some of the actual wording from the Microsoft website and the text continues with the ways the issue can be resolved.
Some websites may not behave as expected in Windows Internet Explorer 8 or in Windows Internet Explorer 9. This problem does not occur in earlier versions of Internet Explorer, and the affected websites continue to be displayed correctly and to work correctly in Windows Internet Explorer 7.
For example, you may experience any of the following symptoms in Internet Explorer 8 or in Internet Explorer 9:
Some websites are designed for older browsers. You may experience compatibility issues on these sites until they are updated for Internet Explorer 8 or for Internet Explorer 9.
Internet Explorer 8 and Internet Explorer 9 include a Compatibility View feature that displays websites that were created for older browsers as they were designed to appear with Internet Explorer 7. You can enable Compatibility View in Internet Explorer or on the Web server...
I find some the beauty of having the dxf files lies in being able to print off drawings as and when needed for use in the workshop, without fear of damaging the original. They can be made to a convenient size and have superfluous data removed as required, as well.
I think they could - and should be made available here. Maybe even sell them (nominal fee of course) with a 50/50 split for the author and publisher?
|Thread: Help needed in finding a Website|
Was this it? http://www.welsoft.co.uk/
|Thread: Where Can I get a 1-1/2 dia x 1/16 slitting saw ?|
They've got a 40mm x 1.6mm here http://www.tapdie.com/html/slitting_saws__slitting_saws_i.html
|Thread: Gib Adjustment - how tight is too tight?|
Sorry chaps, but I can't imagine what improvement you could expect by putting ball bearings in there.
If you're sure the lathe isn't worn, then I'd suggest you keep it simple and adjust the play out with the screws as designed and provided by Myford.
Because I find locking nuts infuriating, the one thing I do on my own stuff is remove them and apply a bit of that blue thread lock to the adjusting screws. That way they become stiff to turn, but remain easy to adjust.
Edited By blowlamp on 17/06/2011 15:32:31
You can fiddle with the screws 'til the cows come home and still not be happy.
The best way of adjusting the slides is to nip the adjusting screws down so that movement is just a little tighter than you need and then tap the slide (on the same side as the adjusting screws) with a mallet or hammer + wood etc to reseat everything until you get a nice even movement.
It's how it's done in the factory
|Thread: Explorer 9|
I'm using Internet Explorer 9 for this message, on Windows 7.
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