Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: iPad in the workshop, something to bear in mind!|
There's no point in me doing that Ian, because Windows works well for me.
I was just hoping you could substantiate your remarks.
OK then Ian, I'll bite - what doesn't work in Windows?
I'm very happy with Windows too. It does everything I need, from music, video, photography, internet, DTP and CAD/CAM - you name and there's a huge range of programs to choose from including thousands of free ones.
No cost updates and bug fixes for the life of the product as well, so for around about £70 for the operating system, it seems like a pretty good deal to me.
What can Apple give me that is better?
Edit: I also use it to control CNC lathes and milling machines etc.
Edited By blowlamp on 19/12/2011 17:36:35
Edited By blowlamp on 19/12/2011 17:39:37
|Thread: Rotary table dividing Calculator|
I'm just glad that I didn't pay good money for a paranoid anti-virus application, when a perfectly decent one is available for nowt, otherwise I'd have missed this neat utiliy.
Thanks to John McN' for providing.
I downloaded the file from the second link and sent it here http://virusscan.jotti.org/ and here http://www.virustotal.com/ with nothing of any concern being found.
The file is working OK on my system and Microsoft Security Essentials is up to date as of this morning.
The second link is OK through Microsoft Security Essentials - maybe a false positive from Avast?
|Thread: Dead Smooth File|
Maybe here? http://www.j-m-w.co.uk/tools2.html
|Thread: Chuck locking ring.|
Remember that the ring will exert a magnified clamping force across the diameter of the flange by virtue of the fact that a reduction of the circumference will be multiplied by the function of pi.
So a change of 1 unit of the circumference (by tightening the clamp) divided by 3.142 equates to a theoretical change of 0.3182 units of diameter.
A kind of gearing or leverage effect is in action here and very little movement is required which is why - counterintuitively, it works.
Yes, it must rely on the clearance between the mating parts being very, very small and the compliance of the backplate register to allow it to be crushed sufficiently to grip the spindle.
|Thread: Myford / RDG|
The Bed and Saddle Reconditioning Service wording at RDG appears to have been copied and pasted from the original Myford (Nottingham) website or similar original literature.
At the Midlands Model Engineering Exihition, one of the RDG chaps was saying that they were expecting their 'Phoenix' (my terminology) lathe to cost around £5000, but would come with more equipment as standard.
|Thread: Drilling hole of 0.0310" with deepth 0.91" of AISI 304L|
I come to this site to help others and broaden my own knowledge - it seems that my education is being curtailed at the gates of 'drilling deep holes in difficult materials'.
When was it decided that this is an unsuitable topic for discussion?
Here's a link with some general information about drilling stainless steel http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=194
In essence, once you've started to drill, you can't allow any kind of rubbing to occur either through backing off your feed or by allowing chips to build up in the hole because this will cause work hardening, so possibly an air blast or coolant blast setup would help keep things clear of swarf.
I'd be inclined to try contacting the technical department of one or two of the better drill bit manufacturers for more help.
Many hobbyists are keen to learn from commercial practice so why not the other way around?
The original poster needs some help, has made a valid enquiry, and seems to have been honest about his intent.
I can't help him with this, but I hope someone can (and will), so that he might feed back his experience for us all to profit by.
|Thread: Lathe cutting out of true|
Is your lathe a Clarke CL 300?
Their top slides are very awkward to set parallel again because you have to wind them right back to reach the locking screws.
I've modified mine to get around this problem altogether - if you want to see some pics then let me know.
|Thread: Tipped Tools|
Oh, about a boring tool.
Drill and ream a hole along the length (about 40mm) of a piece of suitably sized square section stock to suit the shank diameter of your intended HSS milling cutter. Slit along its length, insert cutter and mount in the lathe toolholder with the slot to the side, this will ensure that the tool is clamped against rotation when tightened.
You've got at least two cutting edges with all angles properly ground and all you have to do is rotate to the correct orientation to allow the tip to cut properly and set its centre height. Arrange a small clearance angle in respect to the lathe spindle axis, so the tool doesn't start to cut elsewhere as it moves into the hole.
Lots of good info on HSS tooling here.
If you're after a really good 'use it for everything' carbide insert, that rips the swarf off like there's no tomorrow with most material (free cutting mild steel, brass, aluminium etc.) and leaves a super finish, then have a look at the pics of some 0.2mm nose radius 55 deg inserts in my album.
These were bought from JB Cutting Tools and I use them on my Clarke CL300 lathe and are on 8mm x 6mm shanks. Larger size shanks are available.
They are razor sharp and only £2.50ish each - I'm still using the first edge of the first insert and that's after some extensive use on all sorts of materials.
I'm afraid that I'm not too impressed with the tool holders (SDJCR/L type) from the same supplier, but for only £15.00 (inc 1 tip), you're not going to get Sandvik quality.
|Thread: Choice of small milling machine|
The nose to table distance of 150mm max, makes it very limited in its capabilities once a vice and a reasonably sized drill are in use.
Tech Spec here http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-sieg-su1-universal-mill-prod854146/#bottomsection
Edited By blowlamp on 29/11/2011 13:09:03
I would say that machine would be a good size for a clockmaker.
|Thread: Cleaning ER collets|
Like John, I give mine a quick blast of air down the bore whilst I block the other end to ensure the air has to exit through the slots.
|Thread: Learning something new..|
I think I'm using my clamp type knurling tool in a slightly different way to others here.
With the job turning, I advance the tool until the knurls are at about 6 and 12 O'clock to the workpiece - let's call it top-dead-centre (TDC). I then nip the adjuster down by hand, until a pattern just starts to form, at which point the tool is retracted a short distance. The adjuster is turned a couple of graduations to bring the knurls closer together and is again moved to the TDC position.
I do this until I'm happy with the pattern being produced and then traverse the tool along the part as far as required.
Doing it this way means I don't need to use any force to turn the adjuster (spanner) and there is virtually no side thrust on the mandrel bearings, because the tool tends to be dragged into the job by the lower knurl, whereas the upper knurl resists to some degree, which kind of helps to even things out.
Edited By blowlamp on 26/11/2011 23:40:00
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.