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Member postings for blowlamp

Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: DRO installation - mounting holes
26/02/2012 18:09:25

If one makes the connection between the pick-up and its mount via a 'J' shaped piece of springy shim, then that allows for a degree of misalignment and slack (up and down, left and right) in the system, without compromising rigidity where it's needed.

Martin.

Thread: Lathe Leveling
22/02/2012 23:30:57
Posted by David Parsons 3 on 22/02/2012 22:43:30:

I got a problem with my Myford Super 7.

Everytime I try to make a rod it ends up having a bigger diameter on the free end.

I've gone right back to basics. I've purchased a Moore and Wright engineers level and got the bed pretty damn level. I followed the manufacturers instructions, turning a one inch bar over a length of five inches, without using the tailstock. I took very fine final cuts, making sure the cut looked and sounded uniform across the entire length. Over a 4 inch distance the results are that the free end away from the jaws are 0.1 mm larger diameter than the chuck end.
Following the instructions, I jacked up the front foot of the tailstock end. I repeatdly did this until the rear foot was off the ground, but i am still out by 0.1mm everytime I conduct the test.

Completely at a loss....

Any suggestions?

Many thanks.
David

Edited By David Parsons 3 on 22/02/2012 22:44:54

This is the rear foot of the lathe bed and not the cabinet, I take it?

The principle is that the bed is supposed to be bolted down and a twist is introduced to it by jacking up/down one corner. The twist is very, very slight and is applied until no error in parallel remains in the test piece.

The lathe should turn close to parallel when unbolted from it's cabinet base and if it doesn't, then there could be a problem as highlighted by Michael Williams.

Martin.

Thread: QD Chuck for Mini Lathe
19/02/2012 18:49:59

Graham.

I'm glad you can make it out, 'cos I've a list of adverts running straight through the text (yours included).

Martin.

Thread: NEW MAGAZINE FOR MODEL ENGINEERS
19/02/2012 11:21:01
Posted by Ady1 on 19/02/2012 07:06:08:

...A new mag startup was never an easy option for anyone, will be interesting to see if this new kid on the block can survive.

It might survive if we give it half a chance.

Anyone ever noticed the mountain of women's mags in the shops? What the hell are they all aboutquestiondont know

I'm prepared to risk £9 to give it a try. One good nugget of information could repay that investment many times over, so I say that if it is a flop, it's just one more amongst the myriad of others out there.

Martin.

18/02/2012 18:17:57

It might be written by all those that claim to be dissatisfied with the content of ME and MEW and are starting up on their own.

I'm prepared to wait and see how it turns out. You never know - its content may be exclusively metric and CNC. surprise

 EDIT: http://s403779233.initial-website.co.uk/editor-profile/

Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 18/02/2012 18:24:38

Edited By blowlamp on 18/02/2012 18:26:44

Edited By blowlamp on 18/02/2012 18:32:47

Thread: Myford ML7 Turning Between Centers
10/02/2012 21:03:23
John.
 
Assuming that you're clocking the bar from a similar position to that of the cutting tool, then I think there must be some error in the information you're posting, because it's not really possible to have a cutting tool move away from the bar (as implied by your 4 thou reading) and yet have that bar remain parallel.
 
If the DTI reading is consistant, I would be inclined to take another light cut along the bar (don't remove it from the lathe) and check with a micrometer for parallel again. If it still checks out OK, then I would do a test once more with the DTI to confirm the results and let us know what you find.
 
Is the lathe turning parallel with a shorter workpiece and no tailstock support?
 
 
 
Martin.
10/02/2012 19:16:45
John.
 
So is the bar not parallel along its length - perhaps you could give some measurments of the diameter in various positions?
 
 
Martin.
 
Thread: How do I cut this out??
05/02/2012 12:07:32
Wolfie.
 
I might be inclined to 'chain drill' away the excess material.
 
Basically do as John S says with a hole though the middle and bolted down - but still able to rotate. Then drill a series of holes around the circle/arcs and other shapes, as close together as you dare, but without overlapping. It should look like a row of holes from a dividing plate, but more closely spaced if possible . See here: http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/images/member_albums/70420/dividing%20plate.jpg
 
This removes the bulk of the metal quickly and allows you to use a coping saw to whizz around the profiles to get the waste out of the way.
 
With some forethought you could cut off the waste from the outside and return the part to the machine to clean it up by milling.
 
It's hard to be sure from the picture, so just an observation, not a criticism, but try and be more accurate with your marking out, because for instance, the centre you've made doesn't seem to coincide with the centre lines which offsets it to everything else.
 
If your marking out is dead neat, then that's reflected in the finished job.
 
 
 
Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 05/02/2012 12:19:51

Thread: Mystery Tooling
04/02/2012 11:26:46
Are they for producing nuts without having to reverse the spindle to unscrew them i.e. the nuts stack up on the curved side?
 
Martin.
Thread: Lidl cast steel vice-16.99
03/02/2012 09:19:06
The electric cable hoist looks like good value for the money.
 
250kg lifting capacity, swivel arm and 3 year warranty for £59.99
 
 
Martin.
Thread: Drilling small holes
01/02/2012 22:19:57
If you want to see a true master from yesteryear, you could do worse than check out Thomas Mudge.
 
 
Martin.
31/01/2012 19:16:53
With a good chuck on your Fobco you should be OK, I think.
 
I use a Union pillar drill that's about the same size as yours and I don't get any problems with drills around 1mm diameter.
 
As has been pointed out already, a 9mm deep hole into aluminum with a 1.5mm drill is begging for trouble if it's not cleared and lubed frequently.
 
Don't make the mistake of believing you'll have covered yourself by practising with aluminium for these movement plates, 'cos brass is bad for snatching when the drill breaks through, so try on some scrap brass to before commiting to the real thing.
When it does snatch, the drill bit lifts the plate off the table at an angle and continues to cut a (now) slanted hole.
 
Have a look on Google for ideas to avoid the above snatching of drill bits.
 
 
 
Martin.
Thread: Suggestions please Vol3
31/01/2012 15:50:00
Graham.
 
If it is just an excess of numbers on the display that's the problem, then I can't help thinking that a conventional 2 axis DRO system with a couple of blobs of BluTack/tape over the offending digits might serve you best in the long run.
 
As a minimum with the modern DRO's, you get PCD bolt hole and points along a line (at any angle) functions, which should save you some time compared to setting up a rotary table or working out the coordinates for yourself.
 
You probably wouldn't be able to fix it yourself, should the need ever arise, but I think they're quite reliable anyway. Good luck with however you do it.
 
 
 
Martin.
 
 
 
31/01/2012 11:40:48
You could try here:
 
 
I believe they are intended for angular measurement and they plug directly into their display units, so it might (just) be possible to configure them to display as linear movement.
 
I have the digital dials that John S mentions fitted to my Clarke CL300 lathe and they work OK, but they each get through a battery about every 2-3 months.
 
If all you really need is whole mm's, then why not get some crisply graduated rules (rulers ) and fit them to each axis and make some adjustable reference pointers to help you keep track of position?
 
Would a conventional DRO work for you, if it were possible to disable some of the digits after the decimal place, because I think that might be possible with some units?
Maybe have a word with the people at the above link if that's an option.
 
 
 
Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 31/01/2012 11:45:06

Thread: Myford Lathe Problem
28/01/2012 18:55:33
It sounds like the end bracket may have a shallow pocket worn into it and/or maybe the thrust face on the feed screw is also worn.
 
Any of this will allow the dial to touch the end bracket and move slightly in use. That is, there should be a small gap between the bracket and the dial.
 
 
 
Martin.
 
Thread: think tank
27/01/2012 15:43:57
Posted by Diane Carney on 27/01/2012 15:39:25:
Going back to the original idea - I've often thought it might be a good idea to extract one part of a thread (obviously something that makes sense) ...
 
Diane
 
 
Oh, LOL, LOL, LOL, hahaha! Nice one, Diane
 
 
Martin.
Thread: Vernier vs Micrometer
27/01/2012 15:31:06
Posted by Peter Hall on 27/01/2012 15:27:35:
Posted by The Merry Miller on 27/01/2012 13:04:13:

I use the micrometer as a rule.
 
Len P.
 
 
You would probably find a ruler easier for that
 
Pete
 
 
OMG, Pete!
You don't know what you've started now
 
 
Martin.
Thread: Lathe turns convex
25/01/2012 21:37:11
It's a common fault with Myford lathes.
 
I think Nigel's got it sussed when he mentions wear on the saddle guide that bears on the inner front bed shear.
 
These lathes are prone to wearing like this because the guide is quite short and the normal turning forces tend to skew the saddle in a clockwise direction when viewed from above, which concentrates pressure and thus wear on the section closest to the tailstock side of things.
 
You could probably sort this out yourself with a bit of light and careful milling and/or filing, although if the wear is more general in nature it may pay to get in touch with Darren..
 
 
Martin.
Thread: setting up new Axminister ZX30
25/01/2012 09:59:23
The Arc Euro Trade article is very good, but I would take issue with their use of a copper-based grease as a form of lubricant.
 
This type of grease is actually an anti-seize compound and is more suited for use in hostile conditions where corrosion is likely to make subsequent dismantling difficult - it doesn't have very good lubricating properties and I'd suggest a spot of oil or general pupose grease is used in its place on that machine.
 
 
Martin.

Edited By blowlamp on 25/01/2012 09:59:51

Thread: Link to a useful website.
24/01/2012 11:06:14
The title says it all really.
 
I came across this link about lathe work whilst searching for something else and thought others here might find it of some interest.
 
I spent a surprising amount of time on there reading about Knots and Splices, as well as How to make Moccasins!
 
Just have a dig around - there's plenty to see.
 
 
 
 
Martin.
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