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Member postings for blowlamp

Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Acceptable runout on mill
24/09/2011 09:07:12
Did you try reaming and blueing the socket as I suggested?
Are the bearings in good condition and what are their dimensions?
To check for a bent spindle you could could pop it between centres in your lathe and check for runout in various significant places, rotating by hand - not under power. This assumes there are centres at each end that would probably have been used when the spindle was originally ground to size.
Thread: ME issue 4270
21/09/2011 10:10:55

...And just to prove my point, the following bold text was left out of my previous message, even though it was present when I pressed the Add Posting button.
I'm running Windows 7 and Internet Explorer 9, so nothing unusual there and zero problems on other websites.
21/09/2011 10:02:55

Posted by Steambuff on 21/09/2011 09:31:41:


I have no problems posting or viewing the free sample issues. (I can view the sample issues even when I am not signed in)





I used to be able to view the 'Try for free' issue, but not now - I just get the same error message as before.

I find that posting here can be very hit and miss because, more often than I'm happy with, you can lose the lot after clicking the Add Posting button!

20/09/2011 12:30:00

Posted by Diane Carney on 20/09/2011 11:08:09:
Please note: Digital Issue 4270 is now repaired. There was a fault, now corrected.
The' Try for Free' does seem to be working fine from this end - this has been checked also.
I've tried 3 times to post a reply here and it's been dumped on all occasions
Try for free still doesn't work for me.
For God's sake get some decent software!

Edited By blowlamp on 20/09/2011 12:36:30

19/09/2011 17:27:00
Did you know that the 'Try me for free' thingy isn't working?
It just throws this message:
Sorry, you do not have access to the digital editions

Edited By blowlamp on 19/09/2011 17:27:28

Edited By blowlamp on 19/09/2011 17:27:50

19/09/2011 16:04:43
Can PDF's be password protected?
If they can, then I would have thought it should be possible to issue a subscriber with one when they sign up, so only they can access their files - no?
Thread: How to tram a mill
17/09/2011 17:47:25
Posted by John Haine on 17/09/2011 17:36:30:
...and by the way, it's much easier to use a "finger type" DTI rather than a "plunger Type" since you can mount it on a mandrel so the dial is horizontal facing up, and you don't have to peer round the back of the mill to see it.
+1 on this way of squaring the spindle and is the way I do it - very simple too, with no need for anything else in my opinion.
Thread: Hacksaw blade tension
17/09/2011 00:56:51
Posted by EtheAv8r on 16/09/2011 23:42:07:
... and now I am fighting with DraftSight and Cut-2D in the hope of one day being able to pass a file to Mach3 and make something!
If you want a test file to cut on your mill, just let me know what you're after and I'll draw something up and generate some Mach3 compatible g-code for you to play with.
Thread: degreasing
12/09/2011 23:14:58
I was very pleasantly surprised to find that this stuff Citrus Cleaner, worked like a charm when I was degreasing some really mucky stuff. You don't need much and it smells very nice too - it's a little bit pricey, but as I say, it does go a long way.
Thread: DRO Scales - BW Electronics
10/09/2011 16:57:36

Edited By blowlamp on 10/09/2011 17:01:52

Thread: Small compressor
10/09/2011 11:58:01
Thread: Acceptable runout on mill
08/09/2011 11:14:32
A common enough bearing arrangement, except, as you have already said nic, the bearings are flanged and therefore unusual.
Are the bearings noisy?
You could also put some 'blue' on a Morse taper and pop it into the spindle to check the fit, before pulling anything apart.

Edited By blowlamp on 08/09/2011 11:41:59

08/09/2011 10:27:00
Does the spindle rotate smoothly and without any noticeable play when the bearings are adjusted properly?
For a taper-roller bearing to show ~ 0.004" runout, it would have to worn to the extent that it would sound and feel awful when running.
Provided that the splindle isn't distorted or badly made, then I would be inclined to give it a quick lick (by hand - not under power), with a Morse No 2 reamer to clean it up and ensure that there is no embedded swarf etc. You'd have to try really hard to remove much material with a Morse taper reamer, so as long as you're sensible, you won't impact on the accuracy or take too much off.
Once you've done that, you can recheck with a straight bar in a good collet, or ideally, a test bar.

Edited By blowlamp on 08/09/2011 10:31:47

07/09/2011 17:13:21
You want it as close to zero as possible.
I wouldn't be very happy with 0.004" near the chuck.
Thread: Calculating Feed Rate using Myford G-box
05/09/2011 12:34:54
In my opinion, David's glamour shot is much more provocative.
Thread: MEW 181 (Scibe a Line)
03/09/2011 15:21:07
I don't think Sketchup is ideal for 3d technical drawing such as an engineer would need because it's a Polygon based modeller rather than NURBS based.
This means that circles and arcs etc, are made up of short straight line sections and not proper curves, so they're only a representation of the real thing i.e. everything is faceted.
On the other hand, NURBS is mathematically precise modeling, which is what you really need for engineering.
You've also got to learn two CAD applictions and is one of the reasons I decided to pay for my software, despite the free stuff being available.
03/09/2011 12:58:18
Did you ever try ViaCAD2d/3d?
It's one of the few good CAD applications that are available on both PC and Mac and is updated frequently.
The problem for me with the free 2d software from the big companies, is that once you're ready for 3d, you've already been 'conditioned' towards that firm's product - and they certainly aren't free.
John's right about CAD and religion, but if you do need 2d and 3d capability, then there doesn't seem to be many affordable options out there for the hobbyist.
Thread: Reaming a pinion, wall thickness?
02/09/2011 11:54:22
Let us know how you get on.
02/09/2011 11:45:47
Tell us what equipment you have access to, such as lathe, collets, chuck and drills etc.
You can drill in stages of 0.1mm if your tools are OK - you could even bore that pinion in the lathe, but it depends on your skill and equipment.

Edited By blowlamp on 02/09/2011 11:48:15

02/09/2011 11:12:35
Posted by pgrbff on 02/09/2011 10:24:40:
Thank you.
When I was browsing reamers there was a large difference in cost. Will spending more make the job easier or will the more expensive reamer simply stay sharp longer?
Will a hand reamer do in a lathe, or do I need some other type?
Should the steel prove to hard, what symptoms will I observe, so that I know to stop.
Arceurotrade have the 6mm reamer you need for less than a fiver.
As I said in my previous post, just test the hardness by seeing if you can scratch the pinion bore with a file or scriber etc. If the tool skids along the surface without starting to bite, then it's going to be too hard to cut with a reamer. No need to press hard when doing the test, as a sharp tool will cut without undue effort.
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