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Member postings for blowlamp

Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Open Source models
14/05/2012 10:02:41

To get this project kick-started, all we need is someone to submit something that they are willing to share - good or bad, finished or not, it doesn't matter!

The whole point of these plans and models being open-source is that they will morph into something worthwhile and hopefully, with wide appeal.

I also agree with the comments of both Clive Hartland and John Haine.


Thread: Lever Feed Tailstock
13/05/2012 12:20:35

Just for the sake of clarity, the yellow coloured part of the model in my screencast represents the top section of the tailstock. It served no purpose for me to model it all.


Thread: Open Source models
12/05/2012 23:59:00

As this isn't a 'one and only' chance to come up with something, I suggest having a couple of easy things in there for the rank begginer to make that he/she can't really fail at, but still requires careful execution to look professionally made and comply with the plan.

So how about some drawings for a centre-punch and a set of drifts, probably like most of us made at school or college? Simple things maybe, but very useful about the workshop, whilst construction also covers knurling, taper turning and hardening & tempering etc, so a varied range of skills are execised too. Just the sort of things to cut your teeth on and it doesn't really matter if the sizes are a bit out.


Thread: Lever Feed Tailstock
12/05/2012 23:36:45


I can't find my camera at the mo' to show the real thing, but here's a quick video of the model I drew before construction of the lever-feed barrel for the tailstock

My lathe is a Clarke CL300 and if you notice, I also made a longer barrel, which in conjunction with this modification gives a whopping 72mm of travel for drilling and reaming etc. I'd never go back.


Edited By blowlamp on 12/05/2012 23:37:37

Thread: Not fit for purpose
10/05/2012 14:02:05
Posted by S.D.L. on 10/05/2012 12:47:29:

many of the drawings published today are obviously drawn by armatures,

Steve Larner

I like this... laugh It should generate much discussion teeth 2

10/05/2012 12:11:44

I think I recall reading that they are intended as the 'foundation' of your new model thinking


10/05/2012 11:16:34


I've never looked at these drawings, but does My Hobby Store actually state what their purpose is anywhere?


Thread: How Accurate Are Low Cost Digital Calliper Micrometers?
26/04/2012 16:30:30

Can anyone explain why americans refer to thou's as mils? dont know


Thread: Surface grinding finish
23/04/2012 22:34:09


As a test. Once you've dressed the wheel at various speeds, try freehand grinding a bit of HSS as you would on a bench machine and let us know how freely the wheel cuts laugh


23/04/2012 20:45:34


Can you slow the wheel down and/or increase the table traverse speed?

The results you're getting are typical of a blunt wheel burning the job and burnishing the workpiece surface.

The ripples are caused by judder, as the wheel needs opening up to allow it to cut freely and the lack of coolant won't help either.


22/04/2012 23:15:40


I don't know in mm's per second, but just try it faster than you would normally think is necessary - probably equivalent to a thread pitch across the wheel of say 0.1 to 0.2mm.

Slow the wheel if you can so each grain has something to bite in to when cutting the job - just think how easily any tool blunts if it's driven too fast, especially if combined with a shallow cut.

Use coolant to remove the swarf and keep the wheel clean etc.


22/04/2012 21:53:49

It looks more like a blunt wheel to me, Andrew.

Open up the grain by passing the diamond across the wheel much faster than you are doing. Also be sure to traverse the table faster too, as this will help to rip out the blunt grit from the wheel.


Thread: John Parslow skeleton clock
19/04/2012 13:54:08
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 18/04/2012 20:18:31:

... Don't have a pivot file so I will polish after turning with 1000 grade wet and dry and hope that is good enough (any thoughts?).

I have put a few photos in an album here to show progress.



Although 1000 grade wet'n'dry might give a decent finish on a larger area, it'll look like ploughed field on a pivot.

Make yourself a pivot file/burnisher by using a 600/1200 grit diamond stone or file, to apply a grain across a piece of 3mm wide HSS (a graver is good for this, because its lozenge profile allows access to the root of the pivot) , or an old reworked hand file, whilst being careful to keep the surface flat.

Then either spin the arbour in the lathe, or rest it against some wood in the vise, and apply this new tool until the surface takes on a polish - a little thin oil helps, as does keeping the pivot clean.


Thread: Plain bearings in orbit
04/04/2012 21:16:08

Could be Oil Whip, Whirl or Bearing Flutter.


Thread: Search for an article in MEW
04/04/2012 10:45:42

Hurray!! smiley


Thread: filing cat iron
24/03/2012 20:36:35

Diamond files will shift anything and are quite cheap, so they're what I would use.


Thread: Announcement from Arc Euro Trade Ltd.
24/03/2012 16:50:24


Click on 'Images', in the upper-left part of the Google page to see loads of piccies of boring heads.


Thread: dial matting
13/03/2012 10:27:56

A needle scaler wink


Thread: Over engineered?
05/03/2012 23:39:37

I find 80 grit production paper to be most effective, but Scotch brite (green) can be used again and again.


Thread: Does This Impress You?
04/03/2012 09:14:44

Seeing the screwdriver slot thing would bug me because I'd know that he'd have had to over tighten the screws to get them to align.

Like to have seen him do it with tapped holes into metal crying


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