Here is a list of all the postings blowlamp has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mysterious Russian Emails|
Ignore the email, but take the hint to get some bitcoin while you can for under $63,000 US!
|Thread: CAD program that can import PDF for scaling|
I can assure you that if the PDF is a vector file, then the curves can be edited and scaled in MoI.
MoI will import a PDF vector file directly with all curves remaining editable.
Edited By blowlamp on 24/10/2021 14:17:15
|Thread: Cleaning glass.|
Slightly soapy water, a good, clean microfibre cloth and kitchen roll to dry.
It works for me, but do keep the water & cloth clean to prevent the dirt going back onto the glass.
Edited By blowlamp on 16/10/2021 13:07:57
|Thread: Small bandsaw needed|
Is it the join in the blade that's causing the movement?
This Cutmax was linked to on another thread. I think it's a rebadged Nebes 125mm cutting capacity saw like the one in my album.
|Thread: Paint stripper|
The blurring around the last picture makes it look like a miniature version of the real thing.
Wilko own brand paint stripper removed some epoxy two-part enamel very well for me. Put plenty on, leave it there longer than recommended and keep knudging it into the nooks & crannies.
It was far more effective than the premium brand I tried.
|Thread: Unwanted Taper|
It should be straightforward to get this right if the headstock is separate from the bed.
Use your level across the bed at headstock & tailstock end and shim to read the same - this will verify that the bed is straight and untwisted. It's the starting point for everything else.
A test cut without tailstock support will show the taper that's causing problems for you, so it's necessary to loosen the headstock mounting bolts and carefully reposition it until its axis runs parallel with the bed. Very light cuts with a sharp tool will confirm the adjustment.
If the headstock & bed are in one piece then you have a harder problem to solve.
|Thread: Clock Stand with a difference|
The cylindrical square should be your friend here.
Mount the square and the column/base close to one another on a good surface plate, in such a way that they can't easily move about - maybe add some weights. Then measure the distance between them at top & bottom, with gauge blocks or similar to determine how out of square things are. Then you can make your fine adjustments from there.
|Thread: M6 thread locking/stiff screw|
I would imagine nail varnish would work too - just apply it as show in Michael's post above.
|Thread: Bench top band saw|
The Cutmax looks like a re-badged Nebes, which is what I have and is a very good saw indeed.
The Nebes cuts consistantly, is well built and very quiet in use.
As it also has iron wheels with no rubber coating it can be use wet or dry too.
|Thread: M6 thread locking/stiff screw|
I've used a spot or two of super glue on the screw with good results.
Just apply to the thread and let it harden before screwing it in.
|Thread: What Material for this Application Please?|
Tricoya waterproof MDF would probably do the job. You could finish it in almost any way you like.
|Thread: CNC Lathe Scratch Build|
There's a whole range of these CNC lathe controls here.
I notice UK ebay has a GSK980TDc available for a little over £1000 at the moment, but some of the buttons have Chinese characters - still worth a look, I think.
Are you sure?
This is from the manual I downloaded.
Get the GSK980TDc manual here.
Surely this would do it?
Edited By blowlamp on 28/09/2021 12:46:59
That looks interesting, John.
There's also a 'Polarizing Converter' that may be of some use to Joe here. There is no 'C' axis label available, but if the basic conversion is OK, then it might be a simple Search & Replace in Notepad.
It looks like Centroid make a C-Axis controller, but at a price. You'd be looking at around $2300 for the board & software.
Edited By blowlamp on 27/09/2021 14:29:31
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