Here is a list of all the postings mechman48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Removing bang in self tappers|
Beat me too it as I was typing. Drill & retap for 2 / 2.5 / 3 mm socket cap screws or hex bolts
|Thread: Hello to exisiting forum members|
Welcome Peter; look forward to your pics, enjoy.
|Thread: Home workshop accuracy & tolerance?|
Exactly! I served my apprenticeship as Fitter/Turner & after 4 years was given a choice of which trade to follow, as I didn't fancy being stuck behind a lathe for the rest of my natural ' I went down the fitting route. Being conversant with turning I could solder bearing halves together, bore out a bearing allowing for solder gap, then file & scrape bearing to 'FIT' the shaft. The number of times I've ' fitted' parts togetther to run as required, as any 'fitter' knows is inumerable.
|Thread: WM16 or SX2|
Paul, have a look in my album ' DRO' , you can see how I set my dro's up on my WM16. The 'Y' axis follows the contoured angle of the base where as some members have set theirs vertical to the base with extra brackets, so far it hasn't affected the way mine works, as long as the horizontal axis is set true & level.
... 'I fitted two of these very basic DRO scales and displays to my mill, and they work well. I intended them to be temporary but they're still going strong 5 years later!'
Mine came from Arc Eurotrade (it's their image) , other suppliers available.
'Differences between these and 'decent' DROs: battery powered (6 to 9months); two displays to look at, not one ergonomically combined with buttons; simple functionality - doesn't do PCD and other clever stuff (that I've never needed); scales have to be kept clean and avoid splashing coolant and swarf; not top accuracy, but 0.02mm is good enough for me and at least as accurate as my mill's dials. Despite shortcomings they make using the mill much easier'.
...These are the same dro's that I have set up on my WM16 & at present not in the realms of upgrading to any thing more expensive, much as I'd like to. I can concur with the above comments whole heartedly, to date I change the batteries once a year & I only fit the CR 2032 type, as others I've tried, alternative brands, don't last as near as long. As for the minute discrepency in readings... as above, so far I'm quite satisfied with these so will keep the set up for as long as it / they keeps going, worth the cost for these. Usual disclaimer appliies.
Edited By mechman48 on 21/09/2020 14:58:09
|Thread: Why are BA taps so blooming expensive??|
Like you I had the same issues & even now that I have a decent set of BA tap I tend to substitute with M2.5 & M3 where feasable, much cheaper, & much more easily obtainable nuts, bolts, half nuts, hex head, cap screws, etc.
Edited By mechman48 on 21/09/2020 13:44:34
|Thread: WM16 or SX2|
I have a Warco 16 MT2, had it for 8yrs + now, bought it at the harrowgate exhib' back in 2012.It has performed admirably in all I have given it to do. I don't throw heavy DOC at it & listen to what the cutter is telling me as far as feed rate is concerned.Admitadly I have changed the spindel a couple of years back but that was purely down to my being over enthusiastic with the torquing of the draw bar, not the machines fault. Since then, as previously, no probs with what I ask it to do. After sales service from Warco has been good compared to some other stories I've heard.
As for the SX2, not having had one I can't really comment on it, but having seen some write ups it also seems a capable machine, again, depending what you give it to do, horses for courses it seems.
|Thread: Best way to remember Mill movements when turning hand wheels|
If you remember the adage.. 'Righty tighty.. lefty loosey for nuts, screws etc; how about .. 'right- to you, left- to to me' in regard to mill table & vice moveable jaw... ref. to a couple of tv brothers.. .
|Thread: Softening/Hardening/Tempering 30 thou feeler gauge|
Type in the 'Search' box, 'Tempering ' will bring up a few threads for perusal. Just for interest...
|Thread: Taking Leave|
Sad not be able to read your input into this forum, put your decision on the back burner, obviously work has to come first & I wish you well with it but to lose your expertise would be a shame, please reconsider & don't burn your bridges.
|Thread: Marking out blueing or pens?|
I don't have that many projects on the go, mainly small engines, & then only one at a time; I prefer to use Jumbo markers for any flat surfaces & chisel pointed sharpies on others so find them quite effective.
During my apprenticeship we were taught to use Dyekem layout fluid as the preferred method but we also used copper sulphate mix, whitewash mix ( white lead ) on cast srfaces, now long since banned. I belive Copper Sulphate is still obtainable from some gardening centres if you want to try that out. To date; jumbo & Sharpies do fine for me.
|Thread: scraping technique|
As an apprentice I was taught to blue up the surface plate with a roller or dabbing with a cloth pad as the plate would be the master reference; apply the object to that, give a light pressure circular / back & forth movement, dependant on the size of the object & scrape off the high spots revealedon the object. I still occasionally do a bit just to refresh my grey matter, & for the fun of it.. sad eh . there are a plethora of videos on YouTube relating to scraping techniques, have a browse.
|Thread: Parting off question|
...'The traditional way to avoid a stub on a parted off part with a HSS tool is to grind the end at an angle to as to put the narrowest part of the stub up against the bit being cut off. Unfortunately this creates a side force which tends to bend the blade so you need a relatively thick blade or tool to make straight parting cuts of any depth. Thick blades are hard work for small lathes, maybe too hard.'
This is why you will always get a convex face on the chuck side of the work, conversely concave on the parted off piece. When parting off I try to leave approx' 0.5 mm for final facing to size of the parted piece.
|Thread: Gloves in a Bottle|
I generally only go into my garage/ workshop for a couple of hrs a day, maybe 3-4 times a week & I use barrier cream that I get from Mach.Mart, much like the old 'Rozalex' barrier cream, but a much more cream like consistency. I use a 100ml pump dispenser & 1 squirt lasts me all the time I'm in the 'cave'. It dries very quickly when rubbed in & so far have not had any adverse reactions, very reasonably priced too...I also wear vinyl gloves when needed, especially when working with Cast Iron, that stuff gets every where as we all know.
Usual disclaimer applies.
|Thread: multi sided carbide tool recommendations steel, stainless, Iron?|
I have a selection of tools & tips; mainly 'cos 'nice to have & try' mentality. I mainly use the tangential cutter for 85-90% of my cutting needs, followed up by the DCGT polished tip for aluminium & other alloys. I now have a plethora of cutters & only use two for my cutting needs I s'pose I'm not the only one in this position.
|Thread: Stuart S50 Mill Steam Engine running on Live Steam from a MSM 4" Boiler|
What a corker of a set up; you can just picture the boilerman making a brew on a full scale industrial installation.
|Thread: Good morning everyone|
Hi & welcome Paul,
I can claim an association with the REME... yes !, I was that weekend soldier... Craftsman, 34th Northern Signals reg.LAD REME...Territorial reserves... # 24.....5...sir!. Still have my belt. Did my basic trng down at Boredon Hants.
|Thread: QCTP for a WM250?|
I have a WM250C-F & I fitted a 'Bison' version of the Dickson QCTP when I swapped out the original 4 way t/post ; I had to machine the boss off the compound slide & fit a new t/post bolt to fit the 'Bison' QCTP. I still have the original toolpost & if I ever need it I will simply make an insert to fit & fill the gap.
|Thread: Best way to keep nuts tight (ha ha)|
Two tappings 180* apart would provide enough access for adjustment.
How about drilling / tapping say M3 / M4 in one side of both nuts, insert a nylon plug & then screw in a M3/4 grub screw & tighten as required to hold nuts in place ...
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