Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
Mark, let me know how you get on with the fitting. I am coming to the conclusion that you may have chosen the right route. Due to the way the lathe is constructed and the physical size of a 80 frame size motor it is nigh on impossible to fit the motor without a major redesigning and rebuild of the headstock end where the motor is mounted. There is roughly 3" difference in dia of the two motors on top of which the 3ph motor has a ruddy great junction box on top which is in the way of everything, even turning the motor upside down will not work because it then fouls the drip tray.
If anyone has done this conversion and has a simple way of doing it I would be pleased to hear from them.
Thanks Les, a bit of muddled thinking on my part re phases. The diagram that Michael posted did originate from me so it is my manuals diagram. I can see your point re torque. This is a steep learning curve for me and I am getting too old for all this. But it does keep the old grey matter working.
Am I right in thinking that if I go from a 1hp single phase DC motor to a 3ph I can reduce to a 3/4hp motor?
John as you know I am a complete idiot as regards electrikery, does the tacho not need a power supply of 12 volts or something? With a VFD I would not have that, probably missing something again.
I am loathe to go down that route Mark as I do not know what caused my motor to burn out. I am still weighing up my options. I can see advantages and disadvantages to both. If I go down the 3ph VFD route it will be slightly more work to fit and I loose the Tacho for spindle speed, but I end up with a better system. Replacing the motor with the one from Warco I suppose I should replace the speed control board as well the cost then comes out at about the same.
Thanks John I am relieved that my ability to make fairly simple calculations has not been lost. I have been looking at 3ph VFD set ups and as you say it would require fairly extensive re-modelling of the drive train to get a comparable speed range,
Have any of you got the WM250 which for the primary drive has a toothed belt? Further does anyone know what speed the motor spins at on top speed. Either my maths are hopeless or the motor is very strange. The primary drive via the toothed belt is from 13 tooth to a 39 tooth simples 3 to 1 then from a 2.8dia to 3.75dia V belt gives a ratio of around 1.3 to 1 therefore if the lathe is running at 2000rpm the motor is running at 4500 give or take. or have I got it all wrong? Whoops need to reverse the size of the pulleys..
Edited By Dusty on 07/02/2017 15:31:50
ah serious problems. Warco are unable to supply a replacement motor. The motors that they do have are somewhat longer than mine and consequently do not fit without a fair amount of work on the machine. I suspect that any new motor will require the same amount of work. The motor they do have would be £135-00 plus carriage of £15-00 plus VAT £180-00 in total. So if you have a WM250 lathe of about 7/8yrs of age beware, you cannot get a spare motor.
|Thread: Using Toolmakers Buttons|
The first question I must ask is how small do you want to make your hole? If you are not going to bore your hole then there is not a lot of point using buttons, I would think that probably 5/32" or 4mm is about the smallest you can use this technique on. As Jason has said a slot drill in the tailstock chuck and fed in very carefully will hopefully give you a hole that is somewhere near its required position, but do not take that as gospel. My buttons screws have been replaced with 5ba. I have also made larger dia buttons for particular jobs the only requisite is they have a face and dia that are square to one another, the size maters not a jot as long as you know what it is for setting.
Your understanding of their use is O.K.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
Oh woe is me. My motor is deceased it is dead it is no more. It appears that it is burnt out, this was either caused by overload or by a fault in the control board allowing to high a current to the motor. I am trying to contact Warco to find out the cost of a new motor, A rewind is approx.£300-00. Then I may need a new speed control board as well. I could be better off with a 3ph and VFD set up.
|Thread: WM250 speed control board|
Hi Mark, I see we are having similar problems. I can confirm that the fuse on my lathe is 10amp. For Circlip's benefit the WM250 is a 5" lathe not one would normally call a toy lathe and yes variable speed is very useful. John Rudd has been an absolute diamond in helping me.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
I have found a local repairer who will test the motor, Lunch then in the car, hopefully I will have at least this question answered.
Well motor has been taken apart and cleaned, I was a bit surprised in that it was quite clean inside a little bit of dust but nothing of any consequence. Is there any other tests that I can do on it before putting it back. This will not be until tomorrow now as I am off visiting and will not be home till late.
Les, the tap did do the trick, but, there is always a but, the bearing in the end cover is holding the end of the armature shaft. Fortunately there is enough room to get a puller on. I will dig it out in the morning and use that. I will set up a workmate in the garden well away from swarf while I clean and put it back together. The body and both ends were marked for relative positions, so one job I will not have to do.
Martin, they were removed first and I do know where they go and orientation for replacement, but thank you for the information.
Ah this might take a little longer, having removed the two long screws that hold it together, the little so and so will not come apart. I suspect it is only the bearings holding it together. I am confident that I can get it apart but does anyone know of any problems or has taken one of these motors apart. I have taken the precaution of removing the brushes. The other option I suppose, would be to blow it out with an air line. I would prefer to have a look inside just to make sure all is well.
John Should find photo's as rquested
Motor out, what do I need to look for or test. I think it will be a bit of b******r to get back as the hole for the cable is hidden under the chuck guard micro switch. I will have to cross that bridge when I come to it.
I will remove the motor, I think I can get to it without moving the lathe, if not I will have to wait until my son-in-law can help. I am afraid it is a bit to heavy for me on my own.
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