Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
ah serious problems. Warco are unable to supply a replacement motor. The motors that they do have are somewhat longer than mine and consequently do not fit without a fair amount of work on the machine. I suspect that any new motor will require the same amount of work. The motor they do have would be £135-00 plus carriage of £15-00 plus VAT £180-00 in total. So if you have a WM250 lathe of about 7/8yrs of age beware, you cannot get a spare motor.
|Thread: Using Toolmakers Buttons|
The first question I must ask is how small do you want to make your hole? If you are not going to bore your hole then there is not a lot of point using buttons, I would think that probably 5/32" or 4mm is about the smallest you can use this technique on. As Jason has said a slot drill in the tailstock chuck and fed in very carefully will hopefully give you a hole that is somewhere near its required position, but do not take that as gospel. My buttons screws have been replaced with 5ba. I have also made larger dia buttons for particular jobs the only requisite is they have a face and dia that are square to one another, the size maters not a jot as long as you know what it is for setting.
Your understanding of their use is O.K.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
Oh woe is me. My motor is deceased it is dead it is no more. It appears that it is burnt out, this was either caused by overload or by a fault in the control board allowing to high a current to the motor. I am trying to contact Warco to find out the cost of a new motor, A rewind is approx.£300-00. Then I may need a new speed control board as well. I could be better off with a 3ph and VFD set up.
|Thread: WM250 speed control board|
Hi Mark, I see we are having similar problems. I can confirm that the fuse on my lathe is 10amp. For Circlip's benefit the WM250 is a 5" lathe not one would normally call a toy lathe and yes variable speed is very useful. John Rudd has been an absolute diamond in helping me.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
I have found a local repairer who will test the motor, Lunch then in the car, hopefully I will have at least this question answered.
Well motor has been taken apart and cleaned, I was a bit surprised in that it was quite clean inside a little bit of dust but nothing of any consequence. Is there any other tests that I can do on it before putting it back. This will not be until tomorrow now as I am off visiting and will not be home till late.
Les, the tap did do the trick, but, there is always a but, the bearing in the end cover is holding the end of the armature shaft. Fortunately there is enough room to get a puller on. I will dig it out in the morning and use that. I will set up a workmate in the garden well away from swarf while I clean and put it back together. The body and both ends were marked for relative positions, so one job I will not have to do.
Martin, they were removed first and I do know where they go and orientation for replacement, but thank you for the information.
Ah this might take a little longer, having removed the two long screws that hold it together, the little so and so will not come apart. I suspect it is only the bearings holding it together. I am confident that I can get it apart but does anyone know of any problems or has taken one of these motors apart. I have taken the precaution of removing the brushes. The other option I suppose, would be to blow it out with an air line. I would prefer to have a look inside just to make sure all is well.
John Should find photo's as rquested
Motor out, what do I need to look for or test. I think it will be a bit of b******r to get back as the hole for the cable is hidden under the chuck guard micro switch. I will have to cross that bridge when I come to it.
I will remove the motor, I think I can get to it without moving the lathe, if not I will have to wait until my son-in-law can help. I am afraid it is a bit to heavy for me on my own.
John, All works as before using the speed control pot, and all wires are connected as they should non being trapped. I am thinking that this may be a motor problem rather than the control circuits, but then what do I know, but I do know what a pot is having worked at Colvern's many years ago, who made high quality wire wound pots mainly for military purposes.
John, Yes I have a board in my workshop and it is the rccb on the lathe circuit that is tripping out. No have not got fuses other than the one on the lathe and in the plug. Will try again and report back.
Here goes, this is confusing. Connected 24 to 10 and lo and behold switch latched on. I thought O.K. double check so I reconnected in original configuration (through switch) again NVR latched on. Next I removed the belts and turned the motor by hand I could not feel anything that gave cause for concern, same with the spindle. So I thought connect the motor and see what happens, distribution board trips out.
Will I need to wire the motor back in, I disconnected it in the first test and have not put it back yet. I think this might be a job for tomorrow as Granddaughter has arrived and I am banned from the workshop. Oh well tis another day tomorrow.
Tied that and the only reading I got was the1 that shows when set to ohms. No I be an Essex boy, You know Essex born Essex bred strong in arm weak in the head.
Edited By Dusty on 31/01/2017 15:49:56
Which bit of the multimeter do I use for that?
Yes that's what I found. and that's what I used. I think the wiring and the diagram are approximations to one another If you know what you are doing that's O.K. but as you can see John is taking me through step by step and I still feel as if I am blindfolded.
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