Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Precise filing|
The other way I have seen is to bore the bearing, then assemble it minus packing, adjust the fit of the bearing and then make the packer to fit the slot. The problem with that way is that you do need the slot to be parallel in order to measure the gap. A set of slip gauges is always useful when doing these sort of jobs. Mine came from a large internet auction site and cost not a lot. Imperial are generally cheaper than metric.
Split bearings of this type, should be shimmed anyway. I acknowledge that in most cases they are not, by shimming it prevents the over tightening and subsequent cracking you have found. The fit of the bearing is adjusted by the thickness of the shim, it should be an easy sliding fit in the slot and should be made from steel never fibre or other compressible material. Make your shim or packing piece a good push fit, if you need to tap it in it is too thick, bore and then ease the packing piece for the easy sliding fit this should give you a little adjustment on the fit of the bearing
|Thread: Warco WM250|
P12 is set to 1 if set to 0 it will not run, P15 is set to 0.
This next bit will confuse, it has me, with the lathe running turning the pot clockwise decreases the speed, silly bugger I thought you have got the pot connections round the wrong way. I reversed these connections and tried again, the lathe started in reverse, turning the pot clockwise as it went through the central position the lathe stopped and started again in the opposite direction (the correct direction)
O.K. I give in, I have tried to understand but I suspect I am looking but not seeing the correct settings.. It cannot be that complicated, can it? I would like to be able to sort this out before moving the lathe back into position and setting it up. I am looking forward to being able to move about in the workshop and get on with projects.
|Thread: Machining a Washer - Procedure|
Sounds like a faceplate job to me. You have four corners to clamp it by and providing the 4mm plate is flat it should be good enough. If it is just a washer, then I am sure a few thou shy on the dia will not matter. Set up on the faceplate, you will need to make sure it is accurately centered, hack out the middle, and bore to size. Saw the corners off and as much waste as you can. Ideally a four jaw self centering chuck can be used to turn the O.D.
|Thread: Warco WM250|
Thanks John, I will get it all back together over the next day or so and look at the instructions to see if I can work it out for myself, if not can I come back to you for further instruction.
For those of you that may have been reading this, I hope you have been paying attention. I will in the next couple of weeks put together an article for possible publication.
Can I thank John and les for all the help they have given me, without their help I think I may have turned into an alcoholic wreck, many thanks gents.
Yee ha, it worked, we now have a working readout. I have tried it with VFD connected and it reads increases and decreases in speed. All that now remains is to put everything back in place, I will then be ready to set the speed control pot up, just one question John, you told me the ground on the pot is the left hand terminal, is that with the terminals at the top or bottom as rotating it 180deg alters which is left and right.
I think you are talking about the connector that is next to the live output from the board, on the right as you look at it.
I have, after John pointed me in the right direction connected the VFD from the live output side of the board. How I wish I had photographed it all before I committed criminal damage to the set up. I did not think I would need any of the electric gubbins from the lathe in the new set up, oh how wrong can you be.
For information; Mains in goes to NVR switch, then the out goes to the filter board where in turn the VFD is connected to the out side of the board. Hope that makes sense. I have to admit I had wondered what the gash connecter was for
I have removed the board and photographed it, as far as I can see there is nothing untoward showing. the ribbon cable appears to be O.K. without any obvious breaks in it.
I will check John, but I don't think they will go in the wrong way as there is a plastic guide that sits behind the pins, this locates into a pair of guides on the plug. I will check though.
Questions I can answer The 5 core is white and each of the cores has either dots or dashes in red, most helpful, that is unless you know different. The speed pick up has 3 wires. I will not be able to strip the board from the lathe until Sunday when I will photograph it.
Did the test on the display end of the ribbon and nothing. Upon examination I found that there were only four pins on the connector on the display, the centre one was missing. I did check to see if it was broken off inside the plug, but no. I suspect this should be in place, otherwise why have a 5 core ribbon. What are your feelings? Having taken the display apart I can see that there never was a centre pin, solder is evident on the two sets of outer pins but nothing in the centre. I will remove the 'filter' from the lathe before doing any more tests as this will be safer as I will be able to see what I am doing.
Edited By Dusty on 31/03/2017 16:22:39
No It is dead. As the whole set up is wired through the filter board I would venture to suggest that power is present. I do have a multimeter, but as you know I do not have much of a clue as to how to use it.
Well, I have not been banned but told to "get out from under my feet" The wiring was altered and everything seemed O.K. except the speed display still does not work. I have checked all the connections and they seem as if they are fine. All was working prior to me pulling everything apart.
As it is my wedding anniversary today I will probably be banned from the workshop, but it should not take long to alter the wiring when I get out there.
Dead, totally lifeless.
Les, Yes all connected.
It has taken a while to get everything connected, after some minor mods to the lathe while it's in bits. I now have a lathe that runs and the spindle turns. I connected the 'filter' into the circuit as this powers the speed readout. The filter as I understand it changes AC into DC well it did in the original power set up. It does not work. Do I need to complete the circuit on the output side to make it work? I would like to get this part sorted out before going on to programme the pot.
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