Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: coaxial indicator|
I have acquired a coaxial indicator which appears in very good condition, but, there is always a but, the dial indicator is not working. Has anyone ever managed to get the indicator out from the body. I have undone every screw I can get at but it still will not come free. If it went in it must come out, but how. Any idea other that the large hammer. The plunger guides are the problem as they are contained within the body of the tool.
|Thread: Correcting an off bored cylinder|
Turn a disc of metal, it matters not a jot what it is to a dia slightly smaller than the end flange of the cylinder. Drill a hole in the centre of about 7mm, the disc should be about 6mm thick. Now place the disc on the end of the cylinder with a length of 6mm studding passing through the bore. A strip of steel or whatever with a tapped hole in should act as a nut on the other end, this strip should as you no doubt realise bridge the bore, a nut on the outer end secures the whole lot in position. Set up in the lathe as before and clock the disc to run true. Undo the nut, using the biggest boring bar you can pass through the bore, bore to size. Job done, don't forget to just skim the face to ensure it is square to the bore.
Edited By Dusty on 23/03/2018 10:15:23
|Thread: Argos sheds are they any good?|
I will ask the question, is it for a workshop or just a shed?
|Thread: fly cutter ptoblems|
Hi Murray I agree, if you are going to research the most suitable insert of course it will work, but I suspect most hobby engineers will not have a suitable insert to hand but will use an insert designed for turning round stock, as most of those supplied to us are designed for. My point was, if you use a standard carbide insert do not be surprised if it chips.
You may find that a carbide tool chips, as they generally do not like interrupted cuts, a fly cutter reproduces that to quite an extreme degree.
|Thread: Oiled hardboard.|
Andrew, try a local flooring contractor, they still use lino for jobs like Hospital floors. You may be lucky and they can supply an offcut. I was fortunate in a friend ran his own flooring company and I obtained some at a reasonable rate, no not free but some adhesive was thrown in. Workshop floor and bench top done. A wipe with a little paraffin and it comes up like new. Kwil beat me to it, great minds think alike.
Edited By Dusty on 30/01/2018 15:15:14
|Thread: London model engineering exhibition|
Curious, both Ickenham and Romford Clubs got a third place in the Club stand vote as well as Moorhen model boat club, were there three third places two second places although I did not see one and one first place. Just asking?
|Thread: Odd size hole to correct size|
Ray I was taught the same method. I was trained in a small jobbing toolmakers where invariably you did not have the right size reamer, and the job did not justify the cost of buying one let alone the time involved going and getting it. The advantage is with this method you will get a better finish than with a straight drilled hole, just remember to forget the old rule for reaming of half the speed and twice the feed, you are using a drill not a reamer. Just leave .005"/.010"to come out of the hole. It works every time.
|Thread: Welding Mazak|
Mazak cannot be welded, its melting point is far to low. It can be soft soldered I understand, but have never tried, or needed to myself.
|Thread: propane brazing|
Another trick I have employed in the past when silver brazing small steel parts is to mix the flux with methylated spirit. This prevents the steel oxidising with the water in the flux. Care is needed in that you need the meths to vaporise off before heating otherwise you can get some interesting results. Do not do it inside for obvious reasons.
|Thread: Silver solder - soft solder|
Bill, I would not attempt to clean up the soft solder and then silver solder, the smallest speck of soft solder will produce a hale. To re-melt soft solder you need more heat than used to make the joint in the first place. Brass sheet has a nasty habit of buckling when heated beyond the heat for soft soldering. Trust me I know, and it was expensive. The cause was trying to make all the joints in a tank in one go. Plan ahead, make one joint, allow to cool then clean the next joint etc etc etc.
|Thread: (Tooling design help please) Die Cutting / Punching non ferrous sheet|
Russ, the clearance depends on the thickness of the material. The thinner the material the less clearance you should have. Your biggest problem will be holding the punch and die in line, that is unless you have access to a fly press or similar. I can recommend Jasons' suggestion of gauge plate. For short runs you can even use it unhardened as we used to when the development Lab wanted a couple of dozen components for evaluation, obviously you cannot use material more than about .75mm for a job like that. Going back to clearance, if your clearance is to much the punch tries to drag the material through the die, this causes the burrs you wish to avoid and a radius on the top of the hole and on the underside of your washer.
|Thread: Source of Silver Steel|
Andrew, yes I agree, but my original statement is true. The drawbar has only one function. I did oversimplify that statement as it will, as you pointed out, require a bit more umph to hold a R8 than a morse taper as the former is not self locking. The point I was trying to make was that silver steel is probably not the best material for a drawbar.
I have to ask why you made life difficult for yourself, plain good old fashioned mild steel would have been more than adequate for the drawbar. It is, at the end of the day, just a long bolt. If the thread on your old one failed I would venture to suggest that it is, or has been tightened far to much. Its only function is to prevent tooling dropping out of the spindle taper I also have a 3/8" whit drawbar, a length of 3/8" whit studding with a nut pinned to it and a 1" dia x 1/8" thick washer under the nut. Screw the drawbar into the tooling until it stops then give it a nip up with a spanner (no more than 1/8 turn) I have never had anything drop out using this method in well over 50yrs.
|Thread: 4 Jaw Chuck clean it or not?|
Take it apart, you ain't going to do any damage. At the end of the day it is only two lumps of cast iron with four screws holding it together. Yo can give it a good clean and grease and also find out how it works. Give the screws a good dose of penetrating fluid and use an appropriate screwdriver, if the blade is too narrow you will bugger the screws. Go for it, its a learning process.
|Thread: WM250V _F help required|
Spares dept go home at 4pm, as far as I am aware he is a one man band and you may have to keep trying to get him.
Warco have over the years had several different arrangements of the belts on the 250 lathe, if you can post a photo it will help in identifying which set up you have and therefore get you the right advice.
|Thread: Precise filing|
The other way I have seen is to bore the bearing, then assemble it minus packing, adjust the fit of the bearing and then make the packer to fit the slot. The problem with that way is that you do need the slot to be parallel in order to measure the gap. A set of slip gauges is always useful when doing these sort of jobs. Mine came from a large internet auction site and cost not a lot. Imperial are generally cheaper than metric.
Split bearings of this type, should be shimmed anyway. I acknowledge that in most cases they are not, by shimming it prevents the over tightening and subsequent cracking you have found. The fit of the bearing is adjusted by the thickness of the shim, it should be an easy sliding fit in the slot and should be made from steel never fibre or other compressible material. Make your shim or packing piece a good push fit, if you need to tap it in it is too thick, bore and then ease the packing piece for the easy sliding fit this should give you a little adjustment on the fit of the bearing
|Thread: Warco WM250|
P12 is set to 1 if set to 0 it will not run, P15 is set to 0.
This next bit will confuse, it has me, with the lathe running turning the pot clockwise decreases the speed, silly bugger I thought you have got the pot connections round the wrong way. I reversed these connections and tried again, the lathe started in reverse, turning the pot clockwise as it went through the central position the lathe stopped and started again in the opposite direction (the correct direction)
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