Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Power cross feed on Myford Super 7|
It appears that on the drive gear for the cross feed there is a plate secured to it with three countersunk socket screws, one of these had come undone and was sticking out by 2mm. I was unable to find any other problems and can only presume that the csk screw was the culprit. I have almost got the lathe back together again and will see if I have solved the problem in the morning. It is amazing the amount of rubbish that had accumulated in the saddle and apron despite regular cleaning. I think I will try it out before making final adjustments.
Any ideas guys, my power cross feed has jammed. I used it yesterday without problem, I have just been into the workshop and faced off a piece of material by hand when lo and behold my power cross feed kicks in. I stop the lathe and find that the knob for power x feed is in and I am unable to move the cross slide. Has anyone ever had this problem and what are the probable causes. I would like some idea before stripping the apron from the lathe.
|Thread: where to buy hfs steel tube for boiler shell?|
Try asking for 152.4mm everything is metric these days and yes 152.4 is 6". Steel Express will probably have what you want if they supply small amounts
If you have a minimum number of posts and a minimum length of time as a registered member say 6/9 months, that will deter all, but the most persistent scammers.
|Thread: Surface Grinder, luxury or essential?|
I did have access to a surface grinder. In all the time it was available to me I only used it once, that was to give a quick lick to cross slide of a Super 7 I was refurbishing. When I came to use it I found that the mag chuck had never been ground on the machine. It took me a couple of hours to grind the chuck as it was about .004" out. Then 20mins to take .001 from the cross slide, it looks like new now. The surface grinder is no longer available to me. Will I miss it no. Better to spend your money on something you will use a lot more. The alternative is to spend the money in the Pub, the end result will be the same.
You must not look at these as cock-up's they are learning experiences.
|Thread: coaxial indicator|
I eventually got the thing apart by dismantling the clock to find that some time in the dim and distant past, before it came into my possession some kind soul had, I suspect, given the main spindle a bit of a clump, this had damaged the pinion and rack on which the whole thing operates. I do not think it is worth trying to resurrect it, the time would be better spent on something of more use. Thanks for all the advice re de-gumming it but when I got it apart it was quite free apart from the damage to the pinion etc.
Edited By Dusty on 03/05/2018 15:44:39
I have acquired a coaxial indicator which appears in very good condition, but, there is always a but, the dial indicator is not working. Has anyone ever managed to get the indicator out from the body. I have undone every screw I can get at but it still will not come free. If it went in it must come out, but how. Any idea other that the large hammer. The plunger guides are the problem as they are contained within the body of the tool.
|Thread: Correcting an off bored cylinder|
Turn a disc of metal, it matters not a jot what it is to a dia slightly smaller than the end flange of the cylinder. Drill a hole in the centre of about 7mm, the disc should be about 6mm thick. Now place the disc on the end of the cylinder with a length of 6mm studding passing through the bore. A strip of steel or whatever with a tapped hole in should act as a nut on the other end, this strip should as you no doubt realise bridge the bore, a nut on the outer end secures the whole lot in position. Set up in the lathe as before and clock the disc to run true. Undo the nut, using the biggest boring bar you can pass through the bore, bore to size. Job done, don't forget to just skim the face to ensure it is square to the bore.
Edited By Dusty on 23/03/2018 10:15:23
|Thread: Argos sheds are they any good?|
I will ask the question, is it for a workshop or just a shed?
|Thread: fly cutter ptoblems|
Hi Murray I agree, if you are going to research the most suitable insert of course it will work, but I suspect most hobby engineers will not have a suitable insert to hand but will use an insert designed for turning round stock, as most of those supplied to us are designed for. My point was, if you use a standard carbide insert do not be surprised if it chips.
You may find that a carbide tool chips, as they generally do not like interrupted cuts, a fly cutter reproduces that to quite an extreme degree.
|Thread: Oiled hardboard.|
Andrew, try a local flooring contractor, they still use lino for jobs like Hospital floors. You may be lucky and they can supply an offcut. I was fortunate in a friend ran his own flooring company and I obtained some at a reasonable rate, no not free but some adhesive was thrown in. Workshop floor and bench top done. A wipe with a little paraffin and it comes up like new. Kwil beat me to it, great minds think alike.
Edited By Dusty on 30/01/2018 15:15:14
|Thread: London model engineering exhibition|
Curious, both Ickenham and Romford Clubs got a third place in the Club stand vote as well as Moorhen model boat club, were there three third places two second places although I did not see one and one first place. Just asking?
|Thread: Odd size hole to correct size|
Ray I was taught the same method. I was trained in a small jobbing toolmakers where invariably you did not have the right size reamer, and the job did not justify the cost of buying one let alone the time involved going and getting it. The advantage is with this method you will get a better finish than with a straight drilled hole, just remember to forget the old rule for reaming of half the speed and twice the feed, you are using a drill not a reamer. Just leave .005"/.010"to come out of the hole. It works every time.
|Thread: Welding Mazak|
Mazak cannot be welded, its melting point is far to low. It can be soft soldered I understand, but have never tried, or needed to myself.
|Thread: propane brazing|
Another trick I have employed in the past when silver brazing small steel parts is to mix the flux with methylated spirit. This prevents the steel oxidising with the water in the flux. Care is needed in that you need the meths to vaporise off before heating otherwise you can get some interesting results. Do not do it inside for obvious reasons.
|Thread: Silver solder - soft solder|
Bill, I would not attempt to clean up the soft solder and then silver solder, the smallest speck of soft solder will produce a hale. To re-melt soft solder you need more heat than used to make the joint in the first place. Brass sheet has a nasty habit of buckling when heated beyond the heat for soft soldering. Trust me I know, and it was expensive. The cause was trying to make all the joints in a tank in one go. Plan ahead, make one joint, allow to cool then clean the next joint etc etc etc.
|Thread: (Tooling design help please) Die Cutting / Punching non ferrous sheet|
Russ, the clearance depends on the thickness of the material. The thinner the material the less clearance you should have. Your biggest problem will be holding the punch and die in line, that is unless you have access to a fly press or similar. I can recommend Jasons' suggestion of gauge plate. For short runs you can even use it unhardened as we used to when the development Lab wanted a couple of dozen components for evaluation, obviously you cannot use material more than about .75mm for a job like that. Going back to clearance, if your clearance is to much the punch tries to drag the material through the die, this causes the burrs you wish to avoid and a radius on the top of the hole and on the underside of your washer.
|Thread: Source of Silver Steel|
Andrew, yes I agree, but my original statement is true. The drawbar has only one function. I did oversimplify that statement as it will, as you pointed out, require a bit more umph to hold a R8 than a morse taper as the former is not self locking. The point I was trying to make was that silver steel is probably not the best material for a drawbar.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.