Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ER Collet chuck or normal Morse Taper Collets|
As in all things to a certain extent you gets what you pays for. Some years ago I purchased a set of Vertex ER32 collets along with a collet chuck for the milling machine to take them, I also bought an adapter for my lathe which I took great care to fit properly. I have not been disapointed. I am unable to comment on any other make as I have no experience of them. It generally pays to buy the best you can afford comensurate with the use you think they will get. Personally I would opt for a standard collet chuck for your mill along with a few collets to take standard endmills/slotdrills. i.e Clarkson / Osborne Titanic or one of the far eastern varieties, it's what I use most of the time. You can then take your time over the choice of ER32 outfit
|Thread: machining pulleys for vee belts|
A couple of points which might help if you go down the form tool road.
1. Reduce the overhang of the topslide
2. Make a leg for the tool, by this I mean a piece of 3mm plate the width of the tool, at the front end a length of say 3/8 sq welded or brazed to this at right angles so that the bottom contacts the cross slide when the tool is at centre height with the tool sat on the 3mm plate.
3. lock everything solid or as far as possible.
4. For finishing you can pull the mandrel round by hand. You can only take a scrape doing this but it will provide a chatter free finish within limits.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: New miller|
I know I am a pedantic old so and so but, a Miller is a person who operates a Milling machine.
|Thread: Work-holding / clamping for silver-soldering|
Yes Jeff, 'Celcon building blocks' also know as thermalite or used to be. Cheap as chips and when as Stub Mandrel say's they have degraded throw em away or use bits of them to help support the items being silver soldered.
|Thread: Refurbishing a Surface Plate?|
Yes a lick with a surface grinder will produce a useable surface plate, however because of the way surface plates are made it needs to be clamped to the table of the grinder, it cannot be pulled down on a magnetic chuck due to the three small feet on which it sits (the mag chuck would not have enough area to hold it down) Thus it will not be cheap. Scraping is probably a non starter as you will need two more surface plates and the three would then need to be scraped together. I am afraid you are between a rock and a hard place,unless you have a friendly local engineering Co. I wish you luck
|Thread: Work-holding / clamping for silver-soldering|
A Celcon block and a few nails/panel pins also works. Try not to place the joint directly on the block though as the flux glues the item to the block. I have used it many times and it works a treat, but as others have said sometimes it pays to locate parts with pins screws etc.
|Thread: Choice of mechanical lubricator|
Just a word of warning! When you decide what type of lubricator to make you have to decide if it is a single or double. If your oil feed is by means of one pipe into a header or similar the a single pump is fine, but if your feed is to two places i.e. valve chests then you will need a twin pump. The reason is that it is virtually impossible to get two delivery valves to open at the same pressure. Oil like any other substance will find the line of least resistance and go through the delivery valve that is weakest, the other cylinder will get none. It may seem a lot of work making a second pump but beleive me the time is nothing comared to the time spent faffing about over the years trying to get your oil feed right. You will end up making a twin pump anyway.
|Thread: eBAY - Shill Bidding|
If you click on 'show automatic bids' it will become clear how the situation you quote arose.
Andyf sorry I was a bit slow you have discovered what I was telling you.
Edited By Dusty on 13/02/2013 11:28:24
Edited By Dusty on 13/02/2013 11:29:01
|Thread: when is a precision vice not a precision vice>?|
I have watched this thread unravel, the point that appears to be foremost is the fact that people have an unrealistic expectation of the quality and precision of the item they are buying. It would be unrealistic to pay for a Trabant and expect to get a Rolls Royce. Quality and precision cost, if you pay several hundred pounds for a vice and it is rubbish, then you send it back, but if you spend a few pounds on it and it is rubbish so be it. In this life you get what you pay for, use common sense when reading descriptions of an items quality, you may be lucky but don't bank on it.
|Thread: Black hole|
I have found that these Gremlins are person specific, by which I mean that if you are looking for something they have hidden, invite a friend round, He/She will find it instantly. My wife is not good at this, she refuses to step into what she calls The Death trap, which I call a workshop.
Edited By Dusty on 07/01/2013 12:16:58
|Thread: ALIGN POWER FEED SPARES|
Have tried the link,it will not work for me. I to need the little yellow or in my case orange covers for the rapid traverse button.
I have a workshop Gremlin it has a habit of creeping out while I am otherwise occupied and moving and hiding things, I have blocked all gaps, even fitted kickboards (removable) under the bench. It has all been to no avail. I even went to the extreme of tidying the bench, it did improve things for a while but but the little so and so has overcome even that. I wouldn't mind but she (she must be a she) hides things and then puts them back where I had originally put them. I don't know what the answer is!
|Thread: Cannon patterns, and Barrell castings|
If you are going to make a minature firearm, because that is what any form of artillery piece is, you must make yourself aware of the provisions of The Firearms Act. I am not trying to dampen your enthusiasm, but you must be aware of what you can and cannot do in respect of modelling guns, of any kind. Basically if it is capable of discharging any missile or capable of conversion so that it can you are in breach of the law. You don't want Mr Plod knocking on your door. A working model Gatling gun that fires is an absolute no no. Having been involved in shooting over many years I have some knowledge, but I am sure there will be someone on this forum who has better knowledge than me.
|Thread: Blued Steel Sheet|
Traditionally cladding was made from Swedish Iron, for small steam engines. This is a form of wrought iron. Stuart engines used to use this I beleive, if my memory serves me correct. I am not aware if it is available these days. If it is, I am sure someone on this forum will know and where to obtain it. Failing that I would go with the blueing of shim as described.
|Thread: Flood Preparation|
Hi Neil, it sounds like you may have compensation coming your way. I would be hammering on my Solicitors door as soon as possible. Take photographs of any flooding for evidential purposes. i would venture to suggest that even if previous flood waters did not reach the house but did reach the property then you have been given an untrue statement, this could invalidate the contract of sale.
|Thread: silver solder disaster|
I would be careful of photo's in books showing how something is done, they tend to be posed and in consequence not always accurate. I know it is stretching it a bit far, but would you try chopping down a tree in the middle of the wood from the outside of the wood? The answer is of course no. Yes you could insert the tubes a row at a time but it is not advisable. The more times you heat the assembly the greater the chance of failure. I would favour pickling it, cleaning with a bit of scotchbrite pad flux it, then resolder, from the inside, if possible within the hour after removing from the pickle. I would not remove the tubes unless absolutley neccessary.
Where have I gone wrong? You have, it appears tried to solder through the nest of tubes. In your last post you have described the right way and that is from inside the firebox. You then get the heat where you need it and that is where the tube comes through the tube plate, some of the flame will go into the tube and help with the solder flowing. You will need a neck tube burner and another burner to provide the background heat. Doing it the other way the heat is absorbed by the nest of tubes and conducted away from where the heat is needed.
Neck tube burner is where the burner head is carried on an extension tube of about 9" length, the air is admitted by a hole at the farthest part of this tube from the burner. If you try to use an ordinary burner it will blow out as there will be insufficient oxygen in the air that close to the flame.
|Thread: bending 4mm copper tubing|
What is going through this pipe? If it is in any way abrasive i.e. Steam, then I would be very wary of creating such a sharp bend. In any bend there are two main forces acting, the inside of the bend is being compressed and the outside is being stretched. This stretching will cause thinning of the tube on the outside of the bend, the sharper the bend the more pronounced this effect is. I like Michael Williams idea, if the bend must be that sharp, if not a comprimise of increasing the radius of the bend is a better option. I am sure that someone on this forum will have the mathematical skills to work out how much the tube will thin, I am afraid, I do not posses the knowledge to do it.
|Thread: Copper Boiler, should I make my own or buy one ?|
Your question raises a number of points. If I can answer your last point first, the answer is' No' but (there is always a but) and that is for your own safety(that includes your nearest and dearest) and peace of mind you should always have a boiler tested. Testing is not a one off examination but is ongoing over the life of the boiler. Boilers made by Model Engineers as opposed to professional boiler makers are constructed according to the Northern and Southern Federation of Model Engineering Societies codes of practice. In order to have your Boiler tested it has to be presented to your Club Boiler inspector at various stages during its construction to ensure that it is being constructed according to the code. When completed it is subject to a pressure test of twice its working pressure and then every four years to 1.5 times working pressure. it is also subject to an initial steam test, this is repeated yearly. These test results are recorded on your boiler certificate. God forbid that you had a boiler failure and persons were injured (or worse) and you did not have the boiler certificate then any insurance company would, I fear, not look kindly on you.
How do you get this service? by joining your local Model Engineering Club/society, without membership you will not get your boiler tested and certified, unless you pay a qualified commercial boiler inspector. I hope this helps. Just read the above posts and yes insurance is available the best way is again through a Club.
Edited By Dusty on 03/11/2012 19:30:28
|Thread: Ba studs|
Many thanks to all of you that have contributed to this thread. I now have the raw material to produce my own, as much as I would like to purchase the studs, those who manufacture such would I am sure not be too keen on producing the small numbers I want and I would not want to pay for them if they did, they are after all in buisiness to earn a living and producing 50 or so studs of varying lengths is not economic. We are talking in tens of one size a dozen of another and so on. Some of you appear to be getting confused with studding and studs, Studding is threaded all the way along its length and is not suitable for my needs whilst studs have a threaded portion at each end and the centre is full dia. Once again thank you for all your help and suggestions.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.