Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Silver solder|
I suspect that this is probably silverflo40, in which case you will need to use tenacity flux as the brazing temperature is around the 700deg mark, and as already stated easyflo flux will rapidly become exhausted.
|Thread: Measuring wear on a surface grinder|
My only bit of advice is don't try to fix problems you don't have. Get the machine together grind the chuck, then grind a piece of steel making sure it at least 15mm thick. Thinner stuff can be pulled down onto the chuck and distorted giving false readings. If you then find problems they can be fixed as you will know what they are.
I would caution against attempting to grind the bed of the machine. The grinder was not designed to grind over this length, you will almost certainly get rocking of the bed at the ends if you try it. I would just make sure the bed is as flat as you can get it by using a large stone, make sure the bottom of the Mag chuck is clean and free from burrs. Put the mag chuck on the machine, making sure it is parallel to the machine. This is so you can use the setting strip at the back. Grind the surface of the Mag chuck, make sure you start from the highest point of the chuck, you don't want to start grinding with a thou and half way across you have a 5 thou cut. Best of luck.
|Thread: Removing (decorators) paint from Myford Panel|
Some time back I acquired a Myford super 7. This had been owned by a car restorer and was covered in overspray, so much so that I thought the lathe was grey, it was in fact green. I used something called Astonish oven paste. This, though a little aggressive if used too vigorously worked a treat. Finished with some car polish it came up as good as new, well almost. A raid on Swmbo's cleaning cupboard may reveal some, or the Pound shop. I am sure some of the car paint supply shops polishing compound will work just as well.
|Thread: Reamer size questions|
Panagiotis, the problem you have is that if you require the pins to able to disassemble from the plate, after a few times that this occurs the fit will become less. You will eventually get to the stage when the pins will fall through the hole, well that might be a little extreme but you get my drift.
|Thread: Creating Heat for Hardening|
Thermalite blocks also work well, they have the added advantage that you can drive nails into them to hold parts during soldering etc.
|Thread: How many Hammers|
You should remember when fitting things together 'never force anything always use the correct size hammer'
|Thread: Angle grinders - Dangerous or not|
Power tools are never dangerous until the moment you forget that they are.
|Thread: sulphuric acid|
I have plastic dustbin half full of dilute sulphuric acid. I also have some calcium carbonate (limestone) with which to neutralize it in order to dispose of it safely.
Can anyone tell me if adding the calcium to the acid will cause a violent reaction?
|Thread: Vanco linisher|
Hi Jeff, the belts have been kept in a cupboard in my workshop, so have not been subject to sunlight. I don't think belt tension is the problem as it is not excessive, the pressure is applied via a spring on the top arm and is as manufactured. The linisher is some 40 +yrs old so the spring tension might have reduced due to the passage of time. I am at a loss as to why this is happening. The belts are made in Germany with a couple being made in U.K. I have about 20 with 6 being broken now.
I dug out my Vanco linisher which I haven't used for some time over the weekend. I am having problems with the abrasive belts breaking at the join. The belts are probably 3 yrs old and I am not using much pressure. It seems that the adhesive may have dried out which is causing the problem. What sort of adhesive is used on these belts? and is there a cure for my problem.
|Thread: wheel sets and axleboxes Himalayan and Darjeeling|
Yes I did look at this when I discovered the error. Given that a number of these Locos' are being built I am amazed that no one has raised the fact that there is this error. The error is I think (no I know) is in the horns and axle boxes, both should be 0.090" narrower than drawn. I was in the fortunate position that having produced scale thickness (0.620) wheels and reduced the back to back dimension to 3 1/16" I was able to skim the wheels to fit, they are now 9/16" wide as per drawing but no balance weights. I wonder how others have got on?
I have just got started again on my Darjeeling Loco after a long lay off. I completed my wheels sets some time ago and have recently machined the horns and fitted them. The axle boxes were completed last week and I thought I would try the wheel sets in the frames when lo and behold they would not fit. The distance over the outside of the wheels was approx. 5/32" wider than the inside of the axleboxes. I then checked my dimensions against the drawings and found all in order, however if you then check the drawing dimensions they are never going to fit. I have not seen any other reports of this on this forum I cannot be the only one to have found this problem, can I?
Edited By Dusty on 25/04/2019 15:54:45
|Thread: myford super 7 problem|
It has given me something to work with, I have to admit I have never been a big fan of Myford lathes. I acquired this one at a good price a couple of years back, it has been useful as a second lathe. I would normally have used my other lathe for this job but I had something set up in it so used the Myford, I wish I hadn't.
I have been doing a job for a friend on my super7 upon examination of the part I notice that I have a spiral mark on the job. This appears to be of the same pitch as the leadscrew and is quite marked despite the finishing cut being of only a few thou (.003). I have checked that the gib strips on the saddle and cross slide are properly adjusted. I have never come across this before . Any suggestions Gents? The steel I have been using is leaded free cutting 1 1/2" dia turned down to 25mm. The component is 248 mm in length held in 4 jaw with a centre in tailstock to support it.
|Thread: Brass Hex Socket Set Screws|
Not my field of expertise, but I would have thought Brass and Alloy, I take it you mean aluminium alloy, would not be happy bedfellows due to electrolytic action.
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
The bullets used in weapons at airports, as far as I am aware is a standard 9mm. The risk assessment regarding hitting innocent bystanders is taken by the officer at the time, before a shot is fired. All authorised firearms officers are trained fully in this respect.
In response to Vic, shooting at a drone with the object of bringing it down is an almost impossible task with a rifle. Basic squaddies would not have the skill to hit it if it was not moving and they were within 200 metres, bearing in mind that it is likely to be 500 metres away at least, a specialist Army sniper might stand a chance as would a specialist Police sniper. As far as weapons being carried in Terminal buildings, if it ain't loaded it is just a sophisticated stick, you can hear it "hang on mate, stop shooting while I load my gun" really!
|Thread: Power cross feed on Myford Super 7|
All is well, I have re- assembled the apron and carriage, a bit of a faff as I did not remove the leadscrew. Tried and tested works perfectly. I am at a loss to explain why the loose screw had the effect it did, but I can find no other cause.
I must add that my cross slide was not withdrawn that far it was in fact approx only 40mm withdrawn so that was not the problem. I will report back later on my results, that is after I have taken SWMBO shopping.
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