Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vanco linisher|
Hi Jeff, the belts have been kept in a cupboard in my workshop, so have not been subject to sunlight. I don't think belt tension is the problem as it is not excessive, the pressure is applied via a spring on the top arm and is as manufactured. The linisher is some 40 +yrs old so the spring tension might have reduced due to the passage of time. I am at a loss as to why this is happening. The belts are made in Germany with a couple being made in U.K. I have about 20 with 6 being broken now.
I dug out my Vanco linisher which I haven't used for some time over the weekend. I am having problems with the abrasive belts breaking at the join. The belts are probably 3 yrs old and I am not using much pressure. It seems that the adhesive may have dried out which is causing the problem. What sort of adhesive is used on these belts? and is there a cure for my problem.
|Thread: wheel sets and axleboxes Himalayan and Darjeeling|
Yes I did look at this when I discovered the error. Given that a number of these Locos' are being built I am amazed that no one has raised the fact that there is this error. The error is I think (no I know) is in the horns and axle boxes, both should be 0.090" narrower than drawn. I was in the fortunate position that having produced scale thickness (0.620) wheels and reduced the back to back dimension to 3 1/16" I was able to skim the wheels to fit, they are now 9/16" wide as per drawing but no balance weights. I wonder how others have got on?
I have just got started again on my Darjeeling Loco after a long lay off. I completed my wheels sets some time ago and have recently machined the horns and fitted them. The axle boxes were completed last week and I thought I would try the wheel sets in the frames when lo and behold they would not fit. The distance over the outside of the wheels was approx. 5/32" wider than the inside of the axleboxes. I then checked my dimensions against the drawings and found all in order, however if you then check the drawing dimensions they are never going to fit. I have not seen any other reports of this on this forum I cannot be the only one to have found this problem, can I?
Edited By Dusty on 25/04/2019 15:54:45
|Thread: myford super 7 problem|
It has given me something to work with, I have to admit I have never been a big fan of Myford lathes. I acquired this one at a good price a couple of years back, it has been useful as a second lathe. I would normally have used my other lathe for this job but I had something set up in it so used the Myford, I wish I hadn't.
I have been doing a job for a friend on my super7 upon examination of the part I notice that I have a spiral mark on the job. This appears to be of the same pitch as the leadscrew and is quite marked despite the finishing cut being of only a few thou (.003). I have checked that the gib strips on the saddle and cross slide are properly adjusted. I have never come across this before . Any suggestions Gents? The steel I have been using is leaded free cutting 1 1/2" dia turned down to 25mm. The component is 248 mm in length held in 4 jaw with a centre in tailstock to support it.
|Thread: Brass Hex Socket Set Screws|
Not my field of expertise, but I would have thought Brass and Alloy, I take it you mean aluminium alloy, would not be happy bedfellows due to electrolytic action.
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
The bullets used in weapons at airports, as far as I am aware is a standard 9mm. The risk assessment regarding hitting innocent bystanders is taken by the officer at the time, before a shot is fired. All authorised firearms officers are trained fully in this respect.
In response to Vic, shooting at a drone with the object of bringing it down is an almost impossible task with a rifle. Basic squaddies would not have the skill to hit it if it was not moving and they were within 200 metres, bearing in mind that it is likely to be 500 metres away at least, a specialist Army sniper might stand a chance as would a specialist Police sniper. As far as weapons being carried in Terminal buildings, if it ain't loaded it is just a sophisticated stick, you can hear it "hang on mate, stop shooting while I load my gun" really!
|Thread: Power cross feed on Myford Super 7|
All is well, I have re- assembled the apron and carriage, a bit of a faff as I did not remove the leadscrew. Tried and tested works perfectly. I am at a loss to explain why the loose screw had the effect it did, but I can find no other cause.
I must add that my cross slide was not withdrawn that far it was in fact approx only 40mm withdrawn so that was not the problem. I will report back later on my results, that is after I have taken SWMBO shopping.
It appears that on the drive gear for the cross feed there is a plate secured to it with three countersunk socket screws, one of these had come undone and was sticking out by 2mm. I was unable to find any other problems and can only presume that the csk screw was the culprit. I have almost got the lathe back together again and will see if I have solved the problem in the morning. It is amazing the amount of rubbish that had accumulated in the saddle and apron despite regular cleaning. I think I will try it out before making final adjustments.
Any ideas guys, my power cross feed has jammed. I used it yesterday without problem, I have just been into the workshop and faced off a piece of material by hand when lo and behold my power cross feed kicks in. I stop the lathe and find that the knob for power x feed is in and I am unable to move the cross slide. Has anyone ever had this problem and what are the probable causes. I would like some idea before stripping the apron from the lathe.
|Thread: where to buy hfs steel tube for boiler shell?|
Try asking for 152.4mm everything is metric these days and yes 152.4 is 6". Steel Express will probably have what you want if they supply small amounts
If you have a minimum number of posts and a minimum length of time as a registered member say 6/9 months, that will deter all, but the most persistent scammers.
|Thread: Surface Grinder, luxury or essential?|
I did have access to a surface grinder. In all the time it was available to me I only used it once, that was to give a quick lick to cross slide of a Super 7 I was refurbishing. When I came to use it I found that the mag chuck had never been ground on the machine. It took me a couple of hours to grind the chuck as it was about .004" out. Then 20mins to take .001 from the cross slide, it looks like new now. The surface grinder is no longer available to me. Will I miss it no. Better to spend your money on something you will use a lot more. The alternative is to spend the money in the Pub, the end result will be the same.
You must not look at these as cock-up's they are learning experiences.
|Thread: coaxial indicator|
I eventually got the thing apart by dismantling the clock to find that some time in the dim and distant past, before it came into my possession some kind soul had, I suspect, given the main spindle a bit of a clump, this had damaged the pinion and rack on which the whole thing operates. I do not think it is worth trying to resurrect it, the time would be better spent on something of more use. Thanks for all the advice re de-gumming it but when I got it apart it was quite free apart from the damage to the pinion etc.
Edited By Dusty on 03/05/2018 15:44:39
I have acquired a coaxial indicator which appears in very good condition, but, there is always a but, the dial indicator is not working. Has anyone ever managed to get the indicator out from the body. I have undone every screw I can get at but it still will not come free. If it went in it must come out, but how. Any idea other that the large hammer. The plunger guides are the problem as they are contained within the body of the tool.
|Thread: Correcting an off bored cylinder|
Turn a disc of metal, it matters not a jot what it is to a dia slightly smaller than the end flange of the cylinder. Drill a hole in the centre of about 7mm, the disc should be about 6mm thick. Now place the disc on the end of the cylinder with a length of 6mm studding passing through the bore. A strip of steel or whatever with a tapped hole in should act as a nut on the other end, this strip should as you no doubt realise bridge the bore, a nut on the outer end secures the whole lot in position. Set up in the lathe as before and clock the disc to run true. Undo the nut, using the biggest boring bar you can pass through the bore, bore to size. Job done, don't forget to just skim the face to ensure it is square to the bore.
Edited By Dusty on 23/03/2018 10:15:23
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