Here is a list of all the postings Dusty has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What tool do I need? I need to measure the radius of a tiny fillet on a 90° edge.|
It strikes me that this is putting the 'cart before the horse' Why make something and then try to measure what has been made? The usual sequence is, design the component and then make it to the design. I get the feeling that the OP has little or no knowledge of basic engineering principles. If this fillet was hand made, by whatever method, it tells me that it does not need to be that accurate, why make a simple job difficult? What is being asked is virtually impossible with the kit most model engineers have or could afford.
I had not thought about grooving as a use but it does make a lot of sense.
The inserts are .05" wide and approx 5mm in length I can just make out 1125 etched into two of them.
I have just acquired some parting tool inserts. These are .05", wide despite searching I have been unable to find holders for them. I think the inserts are Sandvik but will not swear to that. Any ideas gents?
|Thread: 2-Part Covid Vaccinations|
Remember, there are lies, damn lies and statistics.!
|Thread: Humbrol Enamels|
If you have an automotive vehicle refinishers shop (car paint) near you they should have something called Topcoat thinners, this appears not to be cellulose and works well, it even cleans Hammerite. The problem with white spirit is that it takes forever to evaporate. Having said that I have used cellulose thinners in enamel to airbrush, I would not recommend it on plastic though. The problem with airbrushing in cold damp atmospheres is that it can bloom, doing it indoors is an option but I find that the distaff side has a completely different view to the smell than I do and a frying pan round the back of the head hurts.
|Thread: Where do the parcels go ?|
I fear that you maybe 'putting the cart before the horse' Remember the contract with the courier is with the sender not you. The sender is the person you should contact and they should sort the problem out. They do not want you claiming a refund because of non delivery. If there are delivery problems the sender wants to know, it affects their business. If they do not resolve the problem ask for a refund.
|Thread: Making a cast of a blind hole|
Question, what goes into the hole? it is easier to measure the component that goes into the hole than the hole itself in most cases.
I am afraid that a drill, because of the way it cuts will not produce what you are looking for. A drill does not cut on the flutes which is what you want to produce a tapered hole. A 'D' bit is the way to go. Step drill the hole to remove most of the metal, then finish with the 'D'bit, make sure the component is securely bolted down as the cutting forces will be astronomical.
Edited By Dusty on 07/01/2021 09:59:00
|Thread: Anyone with a Chester 626 mill can help me with a little problem?|
Do not be tempted to try and remove the sleeve without supporting the bottom of the quill, I use a couple of pieces of wood either side if I have an obstinate sleeve or chuck to remove, otherwise you risk damaging your bearings.
My 626 does not have a drift slot either.
Edited By Dusty on 01/11/2020 11:29:46
|Thread: Grumpy old men|
What is the point of getting old if you cannot be grumpy, it is expected of you, I am not one to disappoint . It also engenders lively conversation where differing views can be aired.
Heard on The BBC at lunchtime, said by a well known presenter,"The waiters delivered food on Segways" when what should have been said was " The waiters on Segways delivered food" unless of course the food was on the Segway and the waiter was running beside it.
Oh and while I am at it, calling a milling machine a Miller, a milling machine is and always will be a milling machine, the person who operates it is 'a miller'. Thats not from the Beeb that's me.
|Thread: 5BA Threads|
O.K. if we are boasting, I have a few 7ba socket head cap screws, where did they come from? I hear you say, I wish I could remember.
|Thread: Is there any tips for sawing aluminium|
I learnt from my Grandfather about sawing, he was not an engineer but a carpenter. He had a little rhyme to which you applied to the sawing "hold on tightly press on lightly" sawing to the rhythm of the rhyme. It works for wood as well as metal.
|Thread: Chamfer Block|
Yes, what's wrong with a file? As an apprentice toolmaker I was taught to file chamfers on tools, you soon learnt to make them identical or incur the Foreman's wrath or worse still if it was a part for one of the toolmakers. 60 yrs on I can still file chamfers probably quicker than it takes to set a machine up to do them.
|Thread: Dead Center's|
Emgee, You are right that no adjustment should be required, but it does not alter the fact that lathes especially the lighter lathes that we tend to use do alter and move over time and that some adjustment might be required. My point was do not expect it to be right.
I suspect you are talking about rotating centres rather than dead centres. Dead centres are, soft which goes into the headstock taper and is machined in situ, and hard which goes into the tailstock, which is then adjusted to turn parallel. rotating or live centres, you pays your money and takes your chance, good ones are expensive for a very good reason, don't expect to get top quality for peanuts, accuracy costs. Remember the tailstock needs adjusting even with a rotating centre to turn parallel.
|Thread: Which tool would cut Hardened steel ?|
I know it might seem a stupid comment, but how do you know it is hardened? where did you purchase the steel from? I ask these questions because it might possibly be your technique that is the problem, in view of your limited experience. It is most unusual to purchase hardened steel except from specialist stockholders. Was this a purchase from a well known internet auction site?
|Thread: Silver solder|
I suspect that this is probably silverflo40, in which case you will need to use tenacity flux as the brazing temperature is around the 700deg mark, and as already stated easyflo flux will rapidly become exhausted.
|Thread: Measuring wear on a surface grinder|
My only bit of advice is don't try to fix problems you don't have. Get the machine together grind the chuck, then grind a piece of steel making sure it at least 15mm thick. Thinner stuff can be pulled down onto the chuck and distorted giving false readings. If you then find problems they can be fixed as you will know what they are.
I would caution against attempting to grind the bed of the machine. The grinder was not designed to grind over this length, you will almost certainly get rocking of the bed at the ends if you try it. I would just make sure the bed is as flat as you can get it by using a large stone, make sure the bottom of the Mag chuck is clean and free from burrs. Put the mag chuck on the machine, making sure it is parallel to the machine. This is so you can use the setting strip at the back. Grind the surface of the Mag chuck, make sure you start from the highest point of the chuck, you don't want to start grinding with a thou and half way across you have a 5 thou cut. Best of luck.
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