Here is a list of all the postings Ryan Norton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
I then moved onto the hanger pins which were fun to turn and thread. This was a straightforward job requiring no further explanation. The one side is M3 and the other M2.
I have been working again on Tich, with emphasis on the brake gear and valve gear.
I blackened the brake column with some used motor oil which worked wonderfully.
I am happy with this result. At least it is protected from corrosion and will not chip.
Thanks again Neil.
I did a weeny bit of work this weekend.
First, a test of the new propane torch by doing some final annealing of the outer boiler wrapper and firebox wrapper.
Lastly, I tried my hand at some copper tube bending and cone fabrication for the pressure gauge.
At the same time I fabricated the the brake column and spindle with all the various components.
See the pictures below of the various stages of work.
Instead of pinning the brass collars to the shaft I made M2 x 1mm long grub screws which hold the collars to the shaft.
I have done some more work on Tich, this time on the brake gear.
I'm sure you would have all seen the naked brake shaft in some of my previous pictures of the full locomotive.
The first item made was the drop arm, this was marked out, drilled, cut out and then filed to final size.
Next, the two actuating arms were made. As these needed to be exactly the same in every respect, two plates were soft-soldered together and the operations were performed on both arms at the same time.
Above you can see the fine line where the soft solder is.
The shape was then rough cut with a hacksaw.
Filed with a bastard file.
Then filed with a second-cut file.
Finally finished to shape with a smooth file and the edges draw-filed.
The small hole at the small end was lengthened into a slot to accommodate the changes in radial length as the nut is screwed up and down.
Finally the two pieces were separated with a bit of heat.
and then test fitted to the shaft and locomotive.
The whole lot was then silver-soldered, remembering the square nut between the arms before soldering.
Edited By Ryan Norton on 06/02/2018 15:59:24
Would copper for the various bushes be OK?
Also, excuse my ignorance but "all the fitted bolts out of stainless for all the fixings"
What are you referring to here?
Morning John/ Julian
I reckon I would drill and tap the regulator and dome bush before fitting to the boiler, it would be easier for me.
In terms of the attachment of the regulator stand to the boiler barrel, I would assume that this is no longer standard practice? I am referring to the GA above.
What is the modern standard?
Any advice would be appreciated.
This is something I have considered and thus far ignored for the time being.
With that said, I will be bushing all areas that require threaded connections, including the safety valve spring piston linkage.
The boiler will be constructed similar to the one shown below.
I do also think that the top gauge glass fitting will be silver soldered as well, similar to above but more along the lines of the original and screwed to the boiler before soldering.
Are you referring to something like this? John Baguley posted this drawing on ModelEng Proboards.
This past weekend I managed to do a bit of work on the crown stays. They are now 95% done.
I need to do a bit more careful bending before riveting to get them exactly right.
The same procedure as the rest of the boiler plate work was followed. mark out, cut out, file to size, drill holes, anneal, bend, repeat.
Finally they were pickled in citric acid and cleaned with a brass wire brush.
Both stays came out pretty much exactly the same.
Thanks for your advice. Based on what you have said, the superheater would then need to be made longer to get it into the firebox. I assume that by attaching the spear to the firebox top, the thermal mass of the boiler would prevent the spear overheating? Surely by attaching it though, it would reduce the effectiveness of the superheater altogether?
In chatting to some of the guys at my local club, it has been noted that special measures should be taken to prevent the superheater from touching the flue sides for this very reason.
What are your thoughts?
In terms of the regulator, and fire door, I will be doing these based on the "Words and Music" as depicted below.
In terms of the firedoor, instead of screwing directly into the backhead with "plumbers jointing" i will make separate bushes to accept these screws which will be silver soldered into the backhead.
I have been doing a multitude of different things on Tich lately, two more of which, can be seen below.
Firstly, a while ago I cut out and bent up a piece of brass for the left cylinder cladding which most of you will have seen in some of my earlier pictures. I then drilled the holes for attachment to the cylinders. What I don't understand is why I drilled the holes where I did because they fall on the joints between the steam chest any cylinder block and I therefore cannot use this piece.
I decided to use this piece of useless cladding to do a paint test and here are the results.
The same can be said about the reversing column which was primed with black etch primer and then sprayed in signal red.
What are the thoughts on the shade of green?
The other thing I did was drill the radial holes in the valve gland bosses so that a micrometer spanner can be used to turn them.
This was a fairly easy procedure as I made a tapped jig using a piece of hexagon brass rod which was used to drill the six holes evenly around the circumference of the boss by holding it on the flats in the vice.
|Thread: "It" comes to life again|
Nice work Dean, looking good.
A wagon for Tich sounds like a fine idea!
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
And now for something completely different!
Following the "Words and music" I have made myself a firing shovel for Tich.
A bit premature I know but I figured that by the time Tich is ready to fire, the last thing I'll want to do is spend time making a shovel, so here it is now.
The former is 6 mm mild steel, filed to the dimensions given and the shovel formed from 0.5 mm mild steel plate. The assembly was brazed using brass rod- at the max. of my capability at the moment.
All-in-all, a great, fun job which was quick and easy with minimum effort and fantastic results.
PS: Yes, I did test it in the fire hole and it does fit!
I will definitely keep stainless steel fasteners and O-rings in mind.
Along with the construction of the buffers I also did some modelling of the lubricator and changed various imperial sizes to suit the metric material at my disposal.
Here are some pictures.
The fire grate is nearing completion too.
I have also decided to make octagonal supports which fit to the buffer holes on the buffer and drag beams. These will allow me to position the locomotive in various orientations making it easy to access certain parts when doing some of the fiddly installation jobs.
Using the tail-stock chuck as a guide, the M3 die was held in the die holder and turning the lathe wheel by hand, the thread was cut.
All the pieces were completed as described above.
Here is a pic of the final assembled parts.
and one with a disassembled view...
Edited By Ryan Norton on 02/01/2018 09:26:08
Edited By Ryan Norton on 02/01/2018 09:27:12
The whole thing was then removed from the four-jaw, reversed and centered firstly by eye and then using the DTI on the already turned portion of the bar.
After truing up the piece, a center hole for the running center was drilled.
Now the same operations as before were carried out. (Take note of the transition between running center and half dead center)
The two halves were then parted using a hacksaw in the lathe. (Note: the lathe spindle was locked and the dead center inserted for support. The lathe bed was also protected using a wooden apron I have made for removing the chucks, holding tools etc.)
The head was then faced to the final length.
The opposite taper was then turned using the same tool used for the previous job.
The radii on either side were filed with a smooth file and the lathe running at about 20 rpm.
The spindles were also cut to rough length and then faced to final length and chamfered.
Here is a pic of some of the parts.
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