Here is a list of all the postings Ryan Norton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
Thanks for the kind remarks. Unfortunately I have not made any further progress on my Tich. I have just moved to the UK and need to set up shop again before anything more happens.
I wish you all the best on your loco and hope to see some of your progress!
|Thread: 3 cyl Pip engine|
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
The axles were first masked and then coated with etch primer.
Following the etch primer, they were sprayed with four coats of gloss black QD enamel.
A wheel press was then made from some angle and threaded rod to press the wheels onto the axles.
Following the wheels, the bearings were pressed to the axles.
Finally the bogie was assembled.
All it needs now is a coat of paint on the side frames, bearing covers and stretcher and it is good to go!
..... and then I need to make another one
|Thread: Kozos 'New Shay' in Gauge 1|
That is an amazing achievement! What a work of art.
Ed can be really proud of that.
His workmanship is unbelievable!
Thanks for the inspiration Ian.
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
The wheel gauge was designed by a friend of mine and laser cut from stainless steel.
It has 3 1/2 inch. 5 inch and 7 1/4 inch tread profiles as well as engraved marks for the chamfer and thickness of wheel.
Seasons Greetings to Everyone! I hope you all had a great December break!
During my time off I got a little bit ore done on the first driving car bogie.
First the treads were cut and using a gauge confirmed to be OK.
With the wheels finally complete, they still looked like they needed something more. So I made a recess in the front side of each wheel and painted them. This is what they needed!
The Axles were then turned to their final sizes and the wheel and bearing seats turned to within their press fit tolerance. I did the final sanding with water paper to give a good finish. A lead taper of 1 degree was also turned on the end to guide the wheel during pressing.
Finally, all the parts are complete.
I will paint the axles and then press the wheels and bearings on to complete the assembly.
This weekend the treads were rough cut with a square profile slightly oversize.
More work on the bogie wheels and frames this week.
I took some more photos of the spring retaining pins.
The wheel blanks were first faced on the one side then flipped around and the other side faced, center drilled, drilled and then bored to final size.
A mandrel was then turned in the four-jaw chuck for the final wheel turning operations.
The outside diameters of all the wheels were turned to within 1 mm of the flange final size.
The next step will be to rough turn the treads.
I did some more work on the bogie this weekend.
The square spring retaining tabs were cut off and filed flat and 4 mm holes drilled in their place as per the picture below.
I also managed to finish rough turning the two axles.
The proof of concept of the new spring retaining pin can be seen in the picture below.
And finally, a bit of a mock up of the whole bogie with wheel blanks.
I have also spent some time working on the first bogie.
I first had to mill the spring retaining tabs down so that the springs could fit around them.
It turns out the tabs were too long to get the springs over, so I filed them down.
So with a clamp compressing the springs, I managed to get them assembled.
The assembly went O.K. but I feel that it could be easier and have some ideas for modification.
I then bored out the bearing holes to a sliding fit - the axles will be a tight fit.
The holes for the bearing cover plates were drilled and tapped M4.
I am going to remove the bottom square spring retaining tabs and replace them with removable pins, this will make assembly much easier.
Finally finished the radius rods...
The rods are almost complete. I have filed both to final shape, the one just needs a bit more taken off the taper part to look more the part.
I am also not going to be peening the pin into the rod, but rather use a floating rod with e-clips on either end. This will allow for a little bit of lateral play in the gear to account for any inaccuracy in my parts.
The concave and convex radii on the thicker part of the top rod also still need to be filed.
I have also got a reject e-clip pin in for reference.
Here are some more pictures of work on the radius rods from last night.
The other side of the block was machined in the mill.
The block was then cut down the middle with a hacksaw and the sides filed flat.
Now all I need to do it file the two rods to the final shape countersink the lifting link hole on one side and peen the pin to the rod.
I made a start on the radius rods as well.
A piece of 6 mm steel plate was cut and then placed in a pickle to remove the hard mill scale.
This was then squared up in the mill and finally the holes were drilled and reamed in the block.
*Note the block was placed in the vice to allow for all successive steps without removing it.
The 3 mm slot was then cut with a 2 mm slitting saw.
The one side of the rod was then milled down.
The embryo radius rods were then removed and all of the edges were slightly chamfered with a needle file.
The other side will be milled down, the piece split down the middle and the final shape of the radius rod filed.
Here is a picture of the rear brake hanger showing the clearance issue with the rear brake beam.
I am going to make these a bit longer.
This weekend I managed to get a bit more done.
I took some photos of the front brake beam in situ as well as the brake hangers showing the clearance issues.
As you can see, it is a very tight fit in front of the cylinder cover.
I will need to make the new hangers narrower as well to give some more movement forward and back.
Here is the finished rear brake beam.
Brake gear aside and onto the valve gear.
The reversing shaft was turned down on both ends to a tight fit for the lifting and reverse arms. The side with the lifting and reverse arm will be brazed and the side with the single lifting arm will be drilled and pinned one the valve timing is sorted.
Here is another variation I have found...
Here is a pic of an existing Tich loco with the rear beams adjusted as per my previous post.
The brake beams were next, starting with the rear brake beam. If you remember a while back I posted some photos of the embryo beams, scribed and partially cut out.
These were placed in the four jaw and the ends turned and threaded M2.
Here I was checking the fit of the larger turned part using a piece of scrap drilled with the same hole as used on the hangers.
The thread was started using the lathe tail stock barrel resting on the die holder.
Finally the thread was finished with the piece of scrap in place to ensure that when a nut is screwed on it does not hinder the movement of the hanger.
Now I just need to file to shape and give it a bit of surface sanding.
One thing I have noticed is that the space for the front hangers is very tight between the wheels and the cylinder covers. I know this has been mentioned by others on the forum and elsewhere. I am lucky they JUST fit.
A bigger issue I have noticed is that when the rear hangers are in place, the bottom holes are directly in line with the bottom of the frame which means the rear beam cannot fit in between them...? I have double checked the dimensions on both the hangers and the position of the hanger pin hole and they are correct to LBSC's description.
The two possible solutions are to re-make the hangers, slightly longer to clear the frames or to mill recesses in the tops of the beams where they will conflict with the frames ( I have seen this on some Tich models). Has anyone else come across this issue?
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