Here is a list of all the postings John MC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Valve seat cutters?|
Stueeee, no, I didn't know about the interchangeability between Wolf and B&D. Useful to know.
I buy my replacement stones from Goodson in America. They do a very wide range of stones, both grade and size, pre-dressed or not. Interestingly with several different sizes of threads, I find that useful for smaller diameter seats.
I too was a great fan of Neway valve seat cutters until I acquired a Wolf valve seat grinding set. Overall much lower in cost than the Neway kit and easier to use especially if there is a lot of material to shift. These wolf sets come up for sale on Ebay regularly and new stone are available. Dressing the stone for truth and shape is easy. The photo shows a spindle that fits in to the valve guide, stone turns on that. The thing that looks like an electric drill (it's not) spins the stone at ~10000rpm.
OP here, thanks for all the replies.
The reason I asked the question is that I want to panel a wall, 1930's style. There's some in the house already and I want to cover another wall. The way its been done is to fix sheets of faced ply to the wall and then put the battens (is that what they are called?) on top. I don't think its original done this way but looks good.
I like the idea of the reversible cutter (thanks Jason B). No need to cut the slot for individual panels with the method described. Having said that I may do the job in what must be the traditional way with individual panels, I'll buy the cutter and see how it goes.
Again, thanks for the replies.
This is a woodworking question, hopefully the tea room is the best place for it!
What are the routing cutters called that round an edge and then create a mirror of that edge so the two parts fit together.
The photo shows, I hope, what I want to do, get the routed (molded?) edge to run around an internal corner.
|Thread: What taper does this mill use|
Just had a look in my Herbert 0V operators manual, no help. I made a new spindle with a 4MT taper to suit some existing tooling I had. With hindsight I may have gone for a small international taper. Would the OP consider this approach? Not 4MT but 5C or R8?
I have collet chucks for the machine but prefer to use collets that fit directly in to the spindle nose, far more rigid then a chuck protruding from the spindle nose. Also more Z axis capacity.
My 4MT collets are ex-Meriden Triumph tool room.
The 0V is a nice machine, very rigid and accurate, I'm surprised more haven't found their way in to home workshops.
NDIY, can't find the thread you mention, got a link?
|Thread: Soft floor and lathe...|
When I drew the plans for my house extension I called the workshop the "playroom". Planners didn't query it. I also added an inspection pit in the garage, guaranteed to get the planners attention, again, not queried.
Did Tom Walshaw (Tubal Cain) write something about his workshop, an upstairs room with a wood floor? Might be worth finding the relevant copy of ME to see if that helps.
|Thread: Colchester Chipmaster 5x20. Hoping to buy.|
I have had a Chipmaster in my workshop for few years now. The lathe had seen very little use so was in excellent condition, including the variator. Early on in ownership I removed the variator while it was still quiet and therefore still in good condition, sold it and replaced with A VFD for speed control.
The one big criticism I have of the Chipmaster is its "footprint". For a small lathe it is ridiculously wide, far too big front to back. The swarf tray makes this worse. I modified the tray to stand nearer to vertical to reduce the amount the machine stood out from the wall.
Clearly Colchester had one eye on style when they designed it, the downside being that it is as wide as the much larger capacity Triumph!
Otherwise a fine machine.
|Thread: Fixture plate ideas|
Would that be a Herbert 0V? Mine had a single tee slot, I added a second slot midway between the existing slot and the front of the table.
I considered other options, a plate with three tee slots, would reduce vertical capacity too much, likewise a plate with an array of threaded holes. The latter idea would have been a pain to use, clearing the swarf out of the threaded holes!
|Thread: Hanson Steel Buildings|
Whatever type of construction is chosen, if the building is visible to neighbours, would it be worth gathering their opinions?
I recall seeing a survey suggesting that prefabricated steel and concrete buildings were the most "hated" addition to a garden!
Many years ago I helped out a local guy who drew out plans for house extensions, garages and the like. He always made a point of getting the neighbours "on-side" before committing too much time to the actual drawing.
Just recently there have been ructions between nearby neighbours over a prefab concrete building going up. An ugly building that appeared without warning. The problems stem from the planting that has been done by nearby neighbours to hide the building.
|Thread: Keeping fit and the economy|
Seems I'm guilty of the crimes here, I cycle and wear lycra! I always thought that me wearing lycra was a treat for the ladies, apparently its not, so the ladies in my life tell me. I also spend far too much on that particular hobby.
I'll start smoking, if it is to be believed there is a net gain to the NHS from smoking tax.
Ps, I like runner beans, a marvelous crop this year.
|Thread: Valve Run Out Gauge|
I'm struggling to see the point of measuring the run-out. If seat and/or guide have been replaced then the seat will need to be re-cut to ensure concentricity. I've repaired a number of cyclinder heads and never needed to make this measurement. The seat cutter will show and correct any error.
|Thread: SCREWFIX - next day delivery|
I too have found Screwfix to be reliable, I've used then from the mail order only days, we now have several shops locally. Been let down once some years ago and got a money off voucher for my next purchase. During lock downs service has been as good as ever.
I would like to say the same about Wickes. Their "click and collect" service was okay. Recently went to the local branch for the first time in over a year only to find stock levels drastically reduced. Tried them online, most of what I want unavailable. Hope they raise there game otherwise I can see them disappearing.
|Thread: Button dies!!!!!|
I've had a set of dies like the OP's for longer than I care to remember. Always assumed they were wire spoke thread sizes. A couple of them definitely are as I have run them down threads rolled by my "Cyclo" spoke thread roller.
|Thread: Anyone know what is going on at Homeworkshop?|
Could it be the site has been hacked? Hopefully no more than that and not as the disturbing message may imply.
|Thread: ‘Right to Repair’|
Part of the problem is the "throw away society" as was alluded to in the article. Re-educating people to get things fixed rather than thrown away/recycled will be a battle.
I've always found with white goods that spares are generally available at reasonable cost from my local white goods repair shop and the usual internet sources. Electrical parts, seals, hinges etc all readily obtainable. Might not be OE but so what?
The problem will be with parts exclusive to a particular model, probably will be so costly that throwing away will be the best way forward financially.
I think a fundamental change from the manufacturers will be needed to make things more fixable. That is to say design for maintenance rather than manufacture.
|Thread: Re-making a centre hole in a small crackshaft|
How about cutting the externally threaded bit off and replacing with an internal thread? It would, I'm guessing, depend on how deep the key way (woodruff?) is. What size is the existing thread?
For the taper repair I would set the top-slide by machining a taper on a bit of scrap until the tapers mate properly. Then grip the far end of the crank in a chuck and support the end to be machined in a steady. True up the taper, remove the damaged thread and drill and tap for a new fixing.
|Thread: Machining a female MT1 taper|
I've used reamers to finish machine Morse tapers but its never been completely successful. I can detect very small errors, that is to say a run out, something in the order of a thou or so. I think this happens because the reamer tends to go where it wants rather than follow the pre-bored hole. Also its a very long cut, inconsistencies in the condition of the cutting edges must have some effect. Having said that the taper is spot on, grips really well.
What I do to ensure absolute accuracy is to bore and ream the taper then finish the other diameters by mounting the work piece on a suitably tapered mandrel that has been machined and not removed from the lathe.
I would agree wit John P. finishing the taper by rotating the shaft on its own bearings is the best way, absolute accuracy comes easily then. The attached photo shows a 4MT taper being finished machined while the shaft spins on its own bearings mounted in the quill of the machine it is going to be used on. (The two fixed steadies are gripping the quill so it cannot rotate)>
|Thread: Lathe DRO|
I have DRO's on the x and y axis of my lathes, no problem moving the saddle very small amounts even on a 7.5" lathe. That one has a dial on the saddle hand wheel, I used that for lengths before fitting a DRO.
I keep the compound slide (top slide) set at 45 degrees for chamfering, occasionally moving it for screw cutting and taper turning.
|Thread: Buffing and Polishing|
My polishing machine is a 1hp, 3000rpm Machine Mart electric motor mounted on an old "Wolf" grinder stand. I use 8" mops, stitched for coarse polishing, they resist pressure better than un-stitched that I use for finishing.
I like to use different mops and abrasives for different materials, works well for me.
This is a messy business, I wear a boiler suit buttoned up to the neck, a face covering over a disposable breathing mask and heavy leather gloves, things get very warm while polishing! This is a process best done outside. Even with these precautions I find that after a session I need a shower.
I'm sure some will say the breathing isn't necessary, without one and even a short polishing session, blowing ones nose will show why its a good idea!
|Thread: RH vs LH threads|
I thought it time to ressurrect this thread. The choice of LH vs RH threads on a bicycle is done for good reason. Considering the pedals, RH thread on RH side, the often made assumption is that the pedal rotates CW on this side , it doesn't, it rotates ACW, the direction that will undo a RH thread. So why the RH thread?
A couple of the replies to my original question have "got it", what I am looking for is a simple explanation. So, once again over to you guys.
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