Here is a list of all the postings Malc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making an alloy gear knob, help needed|
I think I would be looking to drill and tap the blank first, mount it on a matching threaded shaft. You could then hold the shaft in the chuck and turn the shape of the knob.
|Thread: Private Messages|
I had trouble with this the other day. The curser seems to have a mind of its own. I ended up typing the message with out being able to see it until I moved the message up. As soon as I started to type again the lower message box came up and I was typing blind again. I finished the message by having to scroll back up to my typing window and send it. I am still not sure whether it went or not but it was shown in my “sent” box.
|Thread: Myford cross slide bearing mod|
I fitted the cross slide mod to my ML7. I replaced the cross slide end bracket with the top slide bracket as a temporary measure. To use the top slide bracket I made an adaptor plate which enabled me to fit it to the cross slide. This was simply a 6mm thick plate measuring 90 x 20mm. 2 holes were drilled in the plate to line up with the threaded holes on the end of the cross slide. Another 2 holes were drilled and threaded 2BA to accept the top slide bracket. I seem to remember that I had to space out the cross slide screw to compensate for the difference in the length of the 2 brackets. A bit of a “mackel up” but it was sufficient for the job. To steady the top slide (as it now had no end cap) I tightened one of the gib strip screws. I bored out the cross slide bracket by mounting it on a piece of flat stock held in the 4 jaw chuck, much the same as suggested by Arc Eurotrade. After doing the cross slide bracket and replacing it I also did the top slide bracket. Considering the cost the mod is well worth doing, the action is much smoother. True, it doesn’t reduce the end play, that is wear in the screw assembly. I have found that fitting a DRO takes the guesswork out of end play problems. Food for thought if you decide to have a go at it!
|Thread: Central heating query|
Thanks again, you are a real font of knowledge. Now go and enjoy your Christmas and don’t worry about old farts with dodgy heating!
All the best,
Many thanks for the interest. Yes, I have connected it to be supplied from the controller, which is why I was surprised when the indicator came on with the controller off. Thanks Les, I will follow your suggestions after the turkey etc., have checked my shed stocks but, as usual, everything but the thing you want! Thanks again all, and a happy Xmas and new year to you.
A little off subject here, but knowing the range of experience between you all I thought it was worth a punt:
I have just fitted a Drayton RTS9 room stat, 4 wire connection, (L,N COM & CALL) with an indicator light. When fitted the indicator light was on when the room was calling for heat whether the system was programmed on or off. I preferred to have the indicator light lit only when the heating was programmed ON and calling for heat. I removed the permanent live and replaced it with a link from the COM as this is only live when the programmer switches on the heating. This is working OK but I have noticed that the indicator light glows dimly when the heating is programmed off and not calling for heat, does anyone know, is this to be expected?
|Thread: Rear parting off tool|
**LINK** I bought one of these and attached it to a holder I made from a piece of 75mm “ [ “ section channel. Just cut off one of the webs and drilled it to accept clamping bolts. Tried to send pictures but no luck here. If you send me your E-mail address I’ll send them.
|Thread: A bit of humour|
The Body of Opinion?
Three graduate engineers were discussing who might have been responsible for the design of the human body. The first one said "Think of all the joints etc. it must have been a mechanical engineer". The second one said "No no, what about all the electrical impulses and nerves etc? It must have been an electrical engineer". The third graduate was shaking his head, "You are both wrong, the human body was designed by a civil engineer - who else would run a waste pipe through a recreational area"?
A pastor, a doctor and an engineer were waiting one morning for a particularly slow group of golfers. The engineer fumed: "What's with these guys? We must have been waiting for 15 minutes!" The doctor chimed in: "I don't know, but I've never seen such ineptitude!" The pastor said: "Hey, here comes the greens keeper. Let's have a word with him."
"Hi, George. Say, what's with that group ahead of us? They're rather slow, aren't they?"
The greens keeper replied: "Oh, yes, that's a group of blind firefighters. They lost their sight saving our clubhouse from a fire last year, so we always let them play for free anytime." The group was silent for a moment.
The pastor said: "That's so sad. I think I will say a special prayer for them tonight."
The engineer said, "Why can't these guys play at night?"
|Thread: Beam engine piston ?|
Hi all, many thanks for the replies. You have confirmed my suspicions about using Nylon. I only plan to run the engine on air (assuming it runs at all of course)! I rather like the idea of an Aluminium piston. Thanks again.
Is Nylon a suitable material for the piston in a beam engine? The piston is approx. 30 mm dia. and 6mm thick. PTFE is the reccomended material but not so available locally.
|Thread: What's this?|
Does anyone know what this is? Seems to be home made, the threads on the thumbscrew are very fine, I would estimate 42 ish TPI. Initially thought it was a handle for a scraper blade, maybe? A few pence from the car boot, I thought it was worth that if only for the interest.
Edited By Malc on 28/08/2017 14:24:16
|Thread: Cylinder bore surface?|
Many thanks for the advice.
I am in the process of building my first engine ( the Julian De Waal beam engine) and am about to start the cylinder and valve chamber. I am wondering how to finish the bores of the cylinder and valve chambers. I suspect that internal boring will not leave the surface smooth enough. Will I need to buy a “Cylinder Hone” to get a decent finish, and if so how much metal do I leave for the Hone to remove? Any info. would be appreciated.
|Thread: Beam engine flywheel|
Hi Jason, Thanks for that, after weeks of looking at the drawing it has just dawned on me that the outer rim is in fact 5mm thick. I really must learn how to count! 5mm will certainly be easier to handle.
Hi folks I'm after some opinions. I am in the process of building the Beam Engine from the drawings by Julius de Waal. The flywheel has a double thickness rim. I have built the hub, spokes and inner rim up to form the flywheel and am now faced with the task of making the outer rim. This is 15mm wide, 10mm thick mild steel and needs to be formed into a ring with an inside diameter of 200mm to be a tight fit over the existing inner rim. Would it be possible to form this thickness of mild steel using bending rollers? I also thought it might be possible to heat the 15 x 10mm strip and hammer it to shape around a former but as this is the outer rim it needs to be tidy looking when finished. I wondered how you chaps would tackle the job? Thanks in anticipation!! Malc.
|Thread: Borax suppliers??|
Hi Folks, many thanks for the great response. My wife (super shopper) came back with a 500g box for £1.99 from a local cheapie tool shop. However having looked at the box again it does say "Borax substitute" so I will have to give it a try. Thanks again all, an interesting set of replies.
Thanks all for the input. The wife is currently looking round town for me, will let you know !
Hi all, I would like to try some borax for a small brazing job. Does anyone know where it can be bought locally (Leics.) without having to buy from the Internet?
|Thread: Beam engine builda|
Hi all, I have found the drawings etc on this website for the above beam engine by Julius de Waal. It is built from stock rather than castings and I fancied having a go. Has anyone built this? There is no mention of it being run but it certainly looks as though it was built to run. Any info. / opinions would be appreciated.
Edited By Malc on 11/05/2016 19:04:09
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