Here is a list of all the postings Malc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford ML7 - Size of Mandrel Through Drilling?|
Mine is 0.625”, serial No. K 76235.
|Thread: Finished my beam engine.|
Thanks for all the suggestions fellas. I do like the individual round legs idea 34046, nice and simple! I was hoping to avoid eBay Rik, my one and only excursion down that route was via Pay- Pal and resulted in me having to change my card PIN for security. Anyway, thanks again all for the replies.
I have finally finished building my working model of the Julius de Waal beam engine. It has been a great project, built from scratch and has kept me out of mischief for about the last 3 years. I am not a skilled engineer and the model is not of exhibitiion standard, but, at about 15” long with an 8” dia. flywheel I think it is very presentable and I am well pleased with it. The point is that having built it and got it running it has served its purpose. For me the joy was in the making and building. I did retain enough interest to paint it but that was not exactly a labour of love for me. I knocked up a temporary base of ply to hold the engine whilst working on it but it deserves a decent mounting. The question is , what do I do with it now? This set me wondering whether there is a market for finished models and, if so, what on earth would be a fair price to ask? Do any members sell models? Can any of you give me any idea of a fair price?
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
I remember my Dad buying a Renault Dauphine, it was the first brand new car he had. The front weight (or rather the lack of it) was a problem. I remember my Dad keeping a 1 cwt. bag of cement in the boot to compensate.
|Thread: Fly cutting|
Having made a fly cutter some time ago I put it to use squaring off the edges of some 5/8” thick mild steel. The cutting edge of the 1/4” round tool soon needed sharpening and it was tricky to grind an effective edge on it. It was then that I found an old 17mm drill which had been butchered at the point and the shank. I cut it short with about a 45 degree angle I then ground a shallower angle and some rake to give a cutting edge. I also cut the shank end short. It looked very crude after this attack with the angle grinder but I thought it was worth a try in the lathe. I was amazed how well it cut, it seemed to have a shearing action rather than chipping the surface like my old fly cutter. I will try to post a picture of my “Tatty tool” and the surface it produced. The lathe was running at approx. 230 rpm and I was taking about a .012” cut, although I did a couple of .020” cuts which went just as well. I am always surprised by the quality of the surface produced by fly cutters anyway, but I was well chuffed with this little bodge up!
|Thread: Myford mystery hole|
Yes John, that’s the second idea along those line which I have seen. When I get the lathe back together this is something I will look into - all food for thought! Thanks to all.
The hole has always had a grease / oil nipple in it, which is why I have been faithfully oiling it all this time. I will replace it with a suitable bung and save some oil ! Having had all the usual fun with the Myford oil gun I have considered replacing all these nipples with ball oilers, but the ones on the headstock pulley and back gear might be a problem, what do you think?
Thanks for that Nick, That’s another mystery solved.
Decided to strip and clean my ML7 carriage today. In the process I realised that one of the oil nipples is not a standard one, in fact I am not sure whether it is an oil hole at all. I have always oiled it despite it not being a standard nipple thinking that a past owner may have replaced the original at some time. The hole is on the top of the carriage and just to the right of the carriage lock, it appears to be threaded but bigger than the standard nipple thread (probably about 2BA). I can’t find any reference to the hole in any of the Myford literature so I am wondering whether the hole is original or a later mod by someone. Any opinions would be welcome, I will try to post a picture.
|Thread: First Project|
I was in the same position as you. I fancied building a beam engine but, not knowing how well I would manage not being an engineer. I didn’t fancy shelling out on a castings kit because of the cost. I finally decided on building the beam engine by Julius de Waal. It was built totally from scrap or basic metal stock. I started it about 3 years ago and have had it running on air. I am in the process of painting it and making a suitable mounting block to finish it off. It was a wise decision as I had to re-make several bits and have scrapped a fair bit of metal in the process. I found the drawings online and I did depart from the spec on occasions. I haven’t added up the cost but I’m sure it was way cheaper than a beam engine casting kit and of course there was no initial outlay, I bought the bits of metal as I needed them. Hope that is some help.
|Thread: Small air compressor sufficient to run a Potty Mill|
Hi John, I have just finished building a beam engine the bore of the piston is 30mm and the stroke is about the same. I was faced with the same question of how small a compressor could I use to test run it. I only had one of those tyre inflation jobs so I tried it plugged into the 12 volt car supply but it was not quite keeping the engine running - almost but not quite! I have a PSU which I made up to run a cordless drill which had a dead battery it produces about 18 volts. I hooked up the tyre compressor to the PSU and it increased the speed sufficiently to test run the beam engine. A bit cruel on the tyre compressor but it was only for a test run. It was suggested by someone on this forum that a tank such as a plastic bottle would help. Don’t know how your Potty Mill compares to a beam engine? But I thought this little tale might be of interest. Good luck with it,
|Thread: Fillers & Paint ?|
Many thanks for the filler suggestions etc. this has certainly given me plenty of info. Now I have the basic idea I will have a shop around. Once again, thanks to all.
I am at the point of tidying up the beam engine I have been making for some time. Prior to painting there are a lot of scratches, dents etc. which need covering. I have been using “Holt’s Cataloy knifing putty” but am not too impressed with it. I didn’t really want to use an epoxy or two part filler. The imperfections are very small and I feel that a very thin brushable filler or primer would be sufficient. I would be grateful of any suggestions you fellows might have?
|Thread: Testing a Beam Engine?|
Your remarks are a real help. I will certainly try introducing some sort of tank into the air supply. You have also made me suspect the size of the inlet pipes to the valve chamber, they are 4mm copper so the inside diameter is only 3mm. Now I know what is required I can have another play! Thanks for the help.
Over the past few years (on & off) I have been making the Julius De Waal "Balanced beam engine with cylindrical valve". I have reached the stage where I would like to test run it before dismantling it to make it look "presentable". However, the only air supply I have is a cheapo mini air compressor for pumping up the car tyres. Having tried it the engine tries to work but will not run continuously. I have tried experimenting with the timing of the valve but to no avail. The mini compressor is capable of pressures up to 10 Bar but it's flow rate is only 35 Lts./min. and of course it has no tank. The beam engine has a 30mm dia. cylinder and a stroke of approx. 40mm. so it's not a big capacity. I had considered connecting it to one of my car tyres and using that as an air source, but I have no idea of the pressure / flow required to run it. Is there a simple way of testing this engine without having to resort to a compressor?
|Thread: Drill chuck releasing drill bits.|
Well I’m glad to hear the problem is not restricted to just me! I had discovered that gently releasing the trigger cured the problem but was wondering whether there was a more permanent cure. Looks like I will have to discipline my trigger finger! Thanks for all the replies fellas.
I have a cheapo 18v. Guild cordless drill, it has served me well for several years now but has the habit of releasing the bit if I stop and start during a drilling job. The drill has a brake which stops the motor very sharply when the trigger is released and I am convinced that this feature has the effect of loosening the chuck's grip on the bit. I am tempted to disable this feature but having looked inside have not found an obvious way of doing so. I wondered whether any of you chaps have had this problem?
|Thread: Round (leather?) belts|
Spent most of my life working on sewing machinery. As a lad I remember the local reps asking the head mechanic whether he wanted “Plain or Hairy” leather belting and wondering what the difference was. Apparently the hairy belting comes from the back of the animal and is less prone to stretching than the plain which is from the belly. I am full of useless information!
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