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Member postings for Brian Oldford

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Oldford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: 63-tooth change wheel for Portass PD5
05/07/2020 09:14:19
Posted by DC31k on 04/07/2020 21:22:43:
Posted by Brian Oldford on 04/07/2020 20:04:34:
...whereas it's 94% for Mod 1.5.

Would you care to reconsider your suggestion of a metric gear specification in the light of the following, courtesy of

"Portass lathes date from the very early 1920s and were first badged as being made in the west of Sheffield "?

For clarity, I have greater than 94% confidence that it is Sheffield, UK.

I know that a Portass lathe has imperial gears. I was simply reporting what that particular web site said.

04/07/2020 20:04:34
Posted by Rowan Sylvester-Bradley on 04/07/2020 18:16:22:

If I have measured/calculated this correctly DP is about 12 (a 65 tooth gear has an outer diameter of 106.8mm). What does CI mean for the Myford gear?.

Thanks - Rowan

For comparison Myford change gears are 20DP. According to **LINK** there's only a 75% confidence of it being 12 DP. whereas it's 94% for Mod 1.5.
The other important criteria id the pressure angle. Generally older gears tend to be 14.5° whereas more modern gears are mostly 20 °.



Edited By Brian Oldford on 04/07/2020 20:08:49

04/07/2020 18:08:28

Assuming it's an imperial gear, do you know the DP? Myford change-wheels are usually CI.



Edited By Brian Oldford on 04/07/2020 18:09:12

Thread: Part breakout /fixturing
03/07/2020 22:05:21

Use the third axis to leave a few small tabs to hold the piece in place.

Thread: Neil Hemingway Kits
03/07/2020 08:39:11
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 03/07/2020 00:37:37:

. . . . .

A point that puzzles me a bit about the 'Worden' Tool-grinder is why, having gone to the trouble and customer's expense of (probably CNC-) engraving a big, clear degrees arc on the table, they did not have the numbers engraved too. Instead the instructions tells you how to make a simple jig for stamping them, but that risks slightly uneven marking and worse, distorting the plate.

I would suggest manufacturing cost which would need to be passed on to the purchaser.

Thread: Tungsten carbide for shapers
03/07/2020 08:31:23
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 03/07/2020 01:30:01:

A point no-one has mentioned but Cornish Jack approaches, is one made in the old reference books.

It is that the edge of the tool should be under the clapper-box fulcrum.. . . . . . .

How can that be achieved when putting a key-way down a bore? I realise industry would use a broach nowadays but that's might spendy for a one-off.

Thread: Electronic Lead Screw Project
02/07/2020 10:33:01


As you may notice I have a few more things to do before I get to try this arrangement to work.

1: I have the key-way to cut.

2: Arrange to secure the bevel-gear to the lead-screw. (The grub-screw holes are there to secure the original bevel gear to the sleeve that fits around the lead-screw.)

3. Insert the remaining two screws that fix the stepper motor to the angle bracket.

01/07/2020 21:39:17

After being diverted onto other tasks (some from SWMBO and others such as collecting an alternative mill) and having a long ponder on the problem of stepper motors not taking too kindly to the end thrust from skew gears and following the advice of others I decided to replace the previous arrangement with 2:1 Bevel Gears.That in itself proved to be a bit of a task because the larger bevel gear being attached to the lead-screw required modification to fit and to be able to drive.
I now need to cut a key-way through the 5/8" hole to enable the gear to transmit power to the lead-screw.

Time to fire up the shaper.

gears 1.jpg

gears 2.jpg

Thread: Model Engineer Beam Engine - 9/16 Brass Ball Bearings
21/06/2020 13:09:34

Try here **LINK**

Thread: Weeds in a 'lawn'
21/06/2020 11:17:30

Get a couple of Labrador bitches. Their continual piddling will kill off most plants PDQ.

Thread: Perfecto 5 hand shaper
20/06/2020 19:17:36

Looking at those lovely swan-neck tools got me thinking.

Wouldn't it be possible to make a tool that relieves the cut if the bend of the swan-neck moved the cutting edge further back?

Thread: Jacobs morse taper chuck.
18/06/2020 13:52:01

+1 for folding wedges.

Thread: Hermes Parcels
16/06/2020 18:19:43

This morning Hermes notified me they had reimbursed my Paypal account for an item they managed to break whilst in their "care". Thankfully I had paid the additional amount to insure it fully.

Thread: Does it matter if tender valves pass a slight leak?
16/06/2020 18:11:00

Firemen on heritage railways usually get an ear-bashing from the inspector for wasting water if they do that.

Thread: Mild Steel Rod in Metric Sizes
15/06/2020 09:20:21

Lots of sellers on that well known auction site.

Thread: Electronic Lead Screw Project
15/06/2020 09:12:59

Many thanks Phil. I do like the control panel. £?

Thread: Brush motor repair
15/06/2020 09:11:45
Posted by Rod Renshaw on 14/06/2020 20:02:23:

Numatic HENRY ( or is there a Harry?)

That what I use as my shop vac. Great for getting the swarf from the nooks and cranies.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
11/06/2020 20:24:37

Whilst waiting for parts to arrive for my Clough42 ELS I made the housings and fitted lead-screw thrust bearings.



As the new arrangement is somewhat longer I've had to "steal" back some space by: -
Reducing the plain bearing width
Shortening the boss of the lead-screw hand-wheel.
Re-drilling the lead-screw for the hand-wheel drive pin.
Shortening the Ny-lock nut so that the nylon engages with the thread on the end of the lead-screw.

Edited By Brian Oldford on 11/06/2020 20:26:47

Thread: Just right for the holidays.
09/06/2020 10:01:15

I shall defer purchase until August.

Thread: Cutting Oil
09/06/2020 09:49:42
Posted by Bo'sun on 09/06/2020 08:53:56:

Cutting oil and flood coolant are two different materials, and as I understand it, both perform a similar function. They keep the work and tool cool(ish), with flood coolant clearly working better. They also help to prevent material build-up on the face of the tool. Flood coolant is probably the way to go, but it can be messy, not all machines are suitable to accept a flood coolant system, and the coolant will need replacing periodically. Flood coolant can also make it difficult to see what's going on at the cutting face. Maybe a debatable question, but which products do people find work the best?

Isn't that the reason why some people are migrating to mist coolant/lubricant?

The inexpensive compressors that are now readily available make such a proposition quite viable.

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