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Member postings for Steven Vine

Here is a list of all the postings Steven Vine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Advice for novice early ML7 owner please
09/02/2014 17:47:13

Ah, thanks Rick. It is very reassuring to get that confirmation. I had loosened it and have left it like that.

Steve

09/02/2014 17:31:15

Hi Jon

I have an early ML7 and there is no oil nipple on the pulley. There is a flat for the oil nipple, and there is a machined cone shaped indent on the flat, but no hole at all. I have been trying to find an early ML7 manual that discusses the lubrication for this set up, because all the later manuals discuss it showing the oil nipple.

There is a tapped hole in the middle pulley. I removed the grub screw from this and dripped some clean oil in. The oil disappears down the hole, but whether it lubricates the correct parts I do not know. It seems to be going into the right area?

If I recall correctly, when I got the machine the previous owner mentioned something above some problems they were having with the pulley. I found that they had jammed in the grub screw in an attemp to prevent movement and figured out that they misunderstood how it worked in relation to the backgear? I'm under the impression that the grub screw in the centre pulley is just to prevent dirt getting in there (or does it bear down and locate a key?).

Steve

Thread: Clarke CL430/500 - Fitting new motor and in verter
27/01/2014 11:22:54

Nice set up, and I see your requirement. I once 'roughly' trued up a light thin 9 inch dia wheel, which is about on the limit for one of these machines in question. It was slow going, much slipping and stopping, but I got there in the end. I'm not turning that size all day everyday. I was really answering the original posters question and posing a consideration for him with the question about torque. Changing belt positions on these machines gets tedious after you have done it a hundred times, as the original poster has also pointed out. Fitting a vfd overcomes that tedium, and brings the pleasure back. Of course you trade off the power at low speed. What I am saying is, in my experience, the machine is still usable at low speed with a cheap vfd, so go ahead and do it. Of course it all depends on what you intend to turn.

Without getting too technical, a cheap vfd will (should) work.

Steve

27/01/2014 09:27:05

PS

I did away with the intermediate pulley and belted from the motor pulley straight onto the main shaft pulleys. For some situations you can easily reinstate the intermediate pulley if you have to.

Steve

27/01/2014 09:03:38

I have got a Warco WMT300 which looks to be fairly equivalent to that Clark. I fitted a 0.75kw Teco motor and an inverter rated for 1HP. I got them from Drives Direct, for around £150 all in, about 5 years ago. I have had no problems with power output and torque and am very pleased with the set up.

I have run the motor for long periods at 20hz. I forget the rpms at this rating but it is very slow. It is slow enough to do finely controlled threading work up to shoulders, and reversing the carriage under vfd control after the cut is a pleasure. At these low frequencies I cool the motor using a small powerful fan from a microwave (any powerful localised fan will do). In normal operation (at 30hz to 50hz) I don't need the fan on. I get quite low useful speeds, with enough torque, at around 30hz, and things are very usable.

If you take aggressive cuts at low speed then the motor will stall. I have overcome this by then changing the belt arrangment for that particular job and/or taking lighter cuts. Slow speed and high torque; I dont think you can have your cake and eat it too, at least not at a cheap homeshop price. Do you really need tons of torque at low speed?

I moved my motor 180 degrees so it was outboard to the left of the machine, directly opposite to where it was factory fitted. This simplifies the fitting and also gets the motor away from the back of the bed which makes it so much easier to clean up. I made a mounting for the motor to slide and sit on, out of contiboard/melamine, so the pulley position and belt tension can be adjusted if needs be. I made a pulley to fit the shaft ot the new motor, which was a nice excercise. I removed the lathe end cover box. With the end cover box removed, the pulleys and gears are exposed but I have not had any trouble or disasters with this 'whatsoever'. You can also move the motor so that is underneath the bench and then keep the end cover box; you will have to make up some shafting and get longer belts, but this is no big deal and is very easy to do.

For a few pence, I bought a plastic box and components from Maplins for the remote control and sited the box next to my left hand directly in front of the lathe. A potentiometer for the speed controller, with a home made aluminium knob. Two momentary push to make switches for start and stop. I used a sliding switch from the back of a computer (the 110v/240v power supply selector switch) for the forward and reverse. This type of switch prevents inadvertently selecting reverse. I used normal twisted pair telephone wire to connect the control box to the inverter and have not had one problem.Some will tell you that it has to be top notch screened stuff, but it does not have to be; if the low voltage control cables are not run parallel to high power cables they will be fine.

Get a motor and an inverter for the price you are willing to pay, and give it a go. Once you jump in there and start dealing with it you will find your own way to get it all working. You can always ebay it and get your money back if it is a failure, but I very very much doubt it will come to that.

Steve

Thread: Workshop Practice Series on eBay: Copyright Infringement?
17/01/2014 21:43:41

I bought the item yesterday, and got this message today:-

Thanks for your interest in this item.
191016512293 - Workshop Practice Series + methods of work DVD PDF FORMAT

We had to remove this listing, and the item is no longer available. We do our best to make sure listings that may not comply with our policies don't appear on eBay. Because millions of items are listed every day, occasionally a noncompliant item could appear on our site.

The most common reasons we remove listings are:
-- The item isn't allowed on eBay or can only be listed under certain conditions.
-- The listing or item may have violated the intellectual property rights of others.

What to do now:

If you won the item and haven't paid yet:
-- This transaction is now canceled. You don't need to pay for the item.

If you won the item and already paid:
-- Don't worry -- your item should still arrive.
-- If you have any questions about the transaction or delivery, check the shipment tracking if it's available. Contact your seller for more information.
-- If you don't receive the item, or if the item arrives in significantly different condition than it was described, your purchase price plus original shipping may be covered by eBay Buyer Protection:
http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/buy/resolving-problems.html

17/01/2014 21:19:21

Prompted by the heads up, I ordered a copy yesterday.

Steve

Thread: Threaded Spacers
06/01/2014 13:21:08

What about threaded rod with 4 nuts and 4 washers for each standoff. Or use threaded rod and 2 nuts in conjunction with a piece of tube to provide the spacing.

Steve

Thread: Evolution rage circular saw
04/01/2014 14:33:49

The Evolution blades are around 25.4mm, so may bushing on other mitre saws. Max speed 3000 rpm.

I got a Rage machine from Screwfix last Saturday. The blade safety mechanism was all bent up and it was impossible to mount the blade. Judging by the metal damage around the blade spindle mounting I summised this had been done at the factory (it had been severely beaten with a hammer). Also I noticed the infeed and outfeed tables and the round rotating table were all at different heights. I took it back and exchanged it.

I got the second machine home on Sunday. The blade fitted perfectly this time. However, the 3 table surfaces were again all at different heights. If I rested a piece of wood both on the infeed table and the rotary table then the wood was not horizontal, The work was inclined up at an angle, because the infeed table was lower than the rotary table by 2mm. The machine clamp only allows clamping to the infeed table so the problem could not be overcome easily. I took it back and go my money back.

I then went to Machine Mart to have a look at the display models. The Evolution tables all exhibited the same problem, to varying degrees,

I bought another make in the end because the 3 surfaces were all at the same height.

I did do a few test cuts with the Rage, but only on wood. The cuts were very good and the machine felt of good quality and had good power. I was impressed by this. It is a shame that the ones I encountered had not seen any quality control. I was in a rush to finish a job and needed a mitre saw straight away, else I would have waited to get a good Rage.

This guy gives some nice advice on choosing a blade (negative rake, triple chip grind) . **LINK**

Steve

Thread: Please don't do aYahoo!
31/08/2013 12:06:00

I vaguely recall Yahoo did a major change quite a few years ago. That change had everyone up in arms and calling for a lynching.

The new format is ok, you will get used to it and soon forget the OLD ways. Unuseable and worthless, I don't think so.

Time to move on guys and deal with the new 'free' situation. Embrace the NEW format because it aint going away.

Steve

Thread: Highest temperature
21/07/2013 20:12:21

Patio - 18c

Carport - 18c

Workshop - 18c

Kitchen - 18c

Thermometer buggered.

Steve

Thread: Chronos?
21/06/2013 22:13:38

Considering the amount of indidual items they despatch each week it is inevitable things will not go according to plan once in a while. I consider Chronos to be a reputable firm with decent people working for them, and I am sure they always aim to see the customer right. I've had a couple of minor problems over the years, but polite communication has always ended in a resolved situation to satisfaction. (Usual no ties etc)

Steve

Thread: Which is better, 2 big or 4 small? (Bolts)
05/03/2013 01:32:47

 

 

Edited By Steven Vine on 05/03/2013 01:35:40

Edited By Steven Vine on 05/03/2013 01:37:44

Thread: Dividing Head
16/02/2013 16:51:27

Download the Vertex Pdf here (it is under the 'brochures and manuals' tab) **LINK**

Grizzly **LINK**

and here **LINK**

Steve

Thread: What chance have we got?
13/02/2013 23:37:00

In the late 60's, when I was about 13, I was taught to drive the Unigate electric 3 wheeler milk float and was even allowed to drive out of the back streets and onto the main roads. It was a common thing to let the milk boys drive the floats back then. Happy days. Up yours you health and safety do gooders.

Steve

Thread: Propane Cylinder Size - Choosing
22/05/2010 15:06:43
Hi Les
 
Thanks, I looked at those take off rates as well, and that was when I started to get confused about this. If a 47kg cylinder will only do 34kw, then what the hell do you need for a 43kw burner? I think I am missing something here. Although not recommended by Calor, maybe the 3.9kg cylinder will deliver enough for a 43kw burner, but will go cold and lose pressure, or run out quickly.
 
I'm now thinking, maybe I will get a 3.9kg cylinder to start with and see if that 10kw burner will do me. If I have to I can then try bigger burners on it and see what happens . If the cylinder proves too small then I can always exchange it for a 13kg.
 
That link was interesting, and lead to some backyard hearth photos with 13kg bottles on a big burner, and what looked like a 3.9kg cyclinder on a 12kw burner. Thanks.
 
Any other comments will be welcomed.
 
Steve
 
 
 
22/05/2010 13:40:01
Thanks Dixie. Prompted by that I rang a local supplier and they do the Calor 3.9kg/6kg/13kg etc. These sizes are listed on the Calor site. Looks like that supplier near you may have chosen not to stock the sizes, or maybe it is not Calor?
21/05/2010 17:50:54
I need some help deciding on the right size propane cylinder to use for general silver soldering jobs in the home workshop.

I will be using the Sievert PMPX kit. I envisage having to use the 4 bar 12kw, 25kw, and 43kw burners at 4 bar on occasion. The first job will be a simple 5 inch copper cornish type boiler. Other jobs are likely to be silvering solder parts, to fist size lumps of mild steel.

I already have a 15kg Butane cylinder. I was hoping to do a direct exchange (without having to buy another agreement) for another Group A Calor cylinder, either the 3.9kg propane or the 13kg propane.I fancy the 3.9kg because it is portable, but was wondering if it is too small and would suffer the inconvenience of quickly running out of gas?.
The 6kg propane cylinder looks ideal, but it is in Group B and requires another one off £30 agreeement charge, so I am discounting that one at the moment. (unless this is THE one to get?)
 
What cyclinder size are you using in your home workshop? What cyclinder size can you recommend? Is the 3.9kg cyclinder too small? Should I get the 6kg size? Is the 13kg overkill?. Have you experienced freezing with the small size cylinder, or the bigger cylinders come to that?
 
Many thanks in anticipation of your reply.
 
Steve
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