Here is a list of all the postings Richard Parsons has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Nice smelling cutting oil|
It was a bactericide/fungicide called 'Thymol'. It was also used in a toothpaste. Since it was a 'cide' it is probably banned by the 'Gnomes' of 'Elfin Safety'
|Thread: Nice Vice ?,|
Charlie I have one of those vices. I bought it in the 1980s. It is marked ‘Record’. It was my main vice, but now it is on my instrument table. It has 3 jaws and a rotary base. Somewhere in the 90s I bought new plastic jaws for it. They have never been used.
Only snag I have with it is that I have to keep a big-ish screw driver with it to do the rotating thing.
I had forgotten about removing the front jaws and putting then in from the ‘back’ to hold wider things. Thanks for reminding me
|Thread: Over engineered?|
Army paper be blowed. Get the naval stuff. It is 2” (50.8mm) wider to allow for the roll of the ship.
|Thread: turning small diameters|
Stub The whole lathe is a ‘Bittser’. The head and tail stocks are ‘from a ‘Britannia –The pre war (Kaiser Bills one) UK trade name for Lorch. The pulley with its dividing head is from a Swiss Boley as is one of the beds (I have 3) one the Normal (a Lorch), one Extra long (by Boley ) and the third one, a very short bed was made by me and finished ground by a well known defence company. The rest of the bits; collets, Jakot (Jacot) tools, centres (mostly damaged) wax chucks etc were in the box. Lots of them were made during the unpleasantness with 'Ole Shickelgruber'. It cost me £125 cash. Since then I have made drill chucks, fling rest, and other bits and bobs.
Ah Stub - mine has the word ‘Jakot’ stamped on it in a tombstone type. It also has an eagle and a swastika on it. I think it was ‘liberated’
Niko what lathe have you got? I would use my 6mm Lorch, very sharp tools highly polished, as I approached the 0.45mm I would start No2 cut Pillar files and a No6 cut dead smooth pillar/pivot file. I would finish using a well made burnisher.
Given a choice I would use annealed Pivot steel (Try Walsh & Co). If not silver steel and plenty of Dortan 25 neat cutting oil, but burnish dry or with traditional lubricant - spit.
I would make the gear wheels fit the arbours and not the other way round.
Niko there is another way which is to use a Jakot tool. You will probably need one to make the pivots at theends of the arbour.
Edited By Richard Parsons on 28/02/2012 13:52:30
|Thread: Deckel FP1|
Ian Hi You have a 'Continental' 3 phase unit. It is marked 380 Volts 3 Phase. On the Continong they calculate thr RMS voltage slightly different to us. We will say 440 Volts 3 phase they will say 380 volts 3 phase. I know it is confusing but It is the same blooming stuff.
Your single phase is 240 Volt over here is 230 Volts.
|Thread: bcd mill - stuck key|
These keys are normally tapped in from the threaded end. They often use a special jig/die to keep the key ‘fair’ in the slot. That is why the key is rounded the led in end and is usually a little oversized.
To get it out all the way suggested are valid except I would a narrow ‘Keyway’ cold chisel rather than a punch and would start my attempts with a pair of ‘Side Cutters’.
One gets a lot of these little devils in small chain saw engines.
PS do not use _Paul_'s die trick. Dies do not cut being when being un-scerewed!
Edited By Richard Parsons on 26/02/2012 10:37:58
Edited By Richard Parsons on 26/02/2012 10:39:15
|Thread: Starrett micrometer identity|
You cannot make the assumption that it is for Whitworth thread forms. There are a set of 60° threads which are also inch standard. These are the ‘Unified’ threads (UNC/NC, UNF/NF/SAE). These are American.
|Thread: Opus die filer|
I acquired a decent stock of such files many years ago. I do not know what speed the thing should run at. Anyone help?
Edited By Richard Parsons on 24/02/2012 16:31:18
|Thread: DC (davies charlton) Rapier marine|
Love to help I had one whoch was worn out so i converted it to a glow motor. But I live in Hungary.
|Thread: ME nuts and bolts|
Aaaag!! Made an error 2 BA has a pitch of 0.81mm NOT 0.89mm
|Thread: Forum niggles|
|I do not call my steel distance scales anything other than a ‘Stick of Inches’. In Hungary I call them ‘Hosszbol mili’ and pull out my ‘Stick of Inches’ to check what they are trying to palm me off with. |
Other things are called ‘straight edges’.
|Thread: ME nuts and bolts|
Peter The origins of M.E. threads are a bit of a mystery. There are TWO variants available today these are the 40 TPI and the 32 TPI. Both are in the Whitworth thread form.
They were designed for simplicity of manufacture and for use in thin materials. Most model engineer’s lathes of the pre-war period had 8TPI lead screws. With a 40 or a 32 TPI threads you can ‘drop in’ anywhere. There may have been a coarser thread of 24 TPI but it may have been lost. For ME size bolts from ¼” up I use BSF (as I have the taps and dies). Foe smaller than ¼” (6mm downwards I tend to use the now illegal BAs.
The third set of threads, called ME are the 26 TPI threads. These are the ‘Brass’ or ‘Birmingham Brass’ threads. These are used on most boiler fittings. The 26TPI ‘Birmingham Brass’, which are again in the Whitworth thread form, should not be confused with the old 26TPI Standard Bicycle threads which have a different thread form. I will not go into them here, except to say that taps and dies of this series are marked with a letter ‘C’.
Finally The BA series threads which were introduced at the turn of the last centenary. Here the sizes run from the largest ‘0’ BA down to ‘24’ BA. They are said by the authorities to be inch standard and therefore forbidden in The EU. BA threads are not inch standard. The starting size ‘0’Ba is 6mm with a 1mm pitch with a 47.5° angle. The smaller sizes have a pitch which is 90% of the size larger so, 1BA has a pitch of 0.9mm, 2BA 0.89mm and so on down to 25 BA which has bar diameter of 0.25mm. If you want more look here.
Do not let your local authority know you have BA sizes they will do their nuts according to them (even now) all Non metric threads are illegal!! You try to tell them that and unless you have several £1000 to throw away they will throw the book at you.
|Thread: Announcement from Arc Euro Trade Ltd.|
|Mr Ketan When I visited shows in the U.K. I only visited machine suppliers’ stands for two reasons.|
The first was to have a grump (generally accompanied by a Dynamite Enema if I got no sense out of the stand staff).
The second was to have a detailed look at a machine. The last time I did this at a show I visited the Myford stand. After cooling my heels for about ½ hrs I was seen by someone from Rent-a-Goon who hoofed me off the stand. Well I am old, grumpy, bearded, generally unfashionable. I have a tendency to spend an hour or so looking, poking, counting teeth feeling backlash. So I did not buy a new Myford 4-25.
So now when if want something expensive I visit the supplier (having given them a few days notice) and look at the kit I am interested in.
|Thread: Ferris Wheel Clock|
There is a recipe for this problem it comes from (probably illegal) book called 1001 household recipes.
The way is to get white shellac and dissolve it in ‘clear spirit’ (methylated tends to darken it). Spray it onto the plates which have been pre warmed to about 70-80° C. This gives a even coat and stops ‘slides’ of the varnish. The result will be golden coloured plates and cogs.
|Thread: Mig Welder Caught Fire|
|Dave The real answer is ‘Ceramics’. I would have a look around for ceramic insulators. These are the sort of thing which was used on electric stoves. I do not know if you can buy them in the land where the ‘Cross’ hangs in the sky’. I used to buy them in an Aladdin’s Cave of a shop back in the UK. You could buy almost anything you useful could imagine there from a bicycle tyre valve to a replacement ether tube for your gas hob.|
|Thread: How do I fit a rope piston ring to a beam engine condenser?|
-Oh my! The project Guttenberg site contains at least one error. If it contains one error there will be others. The illustration of ‘worming and parcelling’ is wrong. The rule is “Worm and Parcel with lay then turn and serve the other way”!
Shaving down a rope was done for two reasons. These are ‘Looks’ and to guide the rope into or over a pulley. it is done a few stranda at a timeafter each 'tuck'.
Back to the ‘holes in the piston and the ‘pegs' These are there so that the ‘Square Sennit’ can be held and tightened into the piston groove whilst you are fitting it. One strand of the sennit would be ‘shaved down’ and poked into the hole and pegged so the fitter could pull the well greased sennit tight as he worked pushing it into the groove and knocking it down with a mallet and wooden punches. When he had nearly finished he would shave the end strand down and peg it into the other hole to stop it coming undone as the piston was put back into the cylinder.
By the way I have found error 2 in the Guttenberg site. The finishing knot in the illustration of the ‘necklace tie’ is a GRANNEY it must be a REEF. The ‘Badgey’ who taught me and several others would have thrown a fit if we had done that (and keel hauled the culprit).
Where are you Ady 1 this stuff is all nauticians work
looks as though the 'long link' problem has not yet been sorted out yet. Some one needs to have a good 'Growl' at the system suppliers!"
Edited By Richard Parsons on 08/02/2012 07:23:18
Manila, Sisal, and Hemp were all used. They were soaked in oil/grease as they were fitted. The stuff used was some sort of ‘Black Gunge’ (Graphite Grease?) and a thick brown mineral oil.
I saw it done twice the first time was in the form of a Turks head which was woven round a large wooden former with a single strand. It was slipped over the shaft and then tightened up by partly by doubling (that is following the original single line it was woven from. It was then I learned the strange oaths.
The second was to act as a large joint washer and that was woven from 4 strands. The trickery bit was butting the ends together. It was sort of ‘interwoven’.
Hope it helps
|Thread: Stirling Engine development|
|The ‘upper’ engine is I think the Harwell Engine. It is used by Trinity House for powering the lights on Buoys and other sea markers (light houses etc). Well filling the Buoy with Butane is easier than stuffing it with Carbide and lasts a lot longer. Philips great invasions were the Rhombic Drive and the Roll Sock. The Philips engone and later developments are used in Winibago’s to drive the generator and in ‘military equipment’ because of it silence. As a student said of the Beal Free Piston engine “It ain’t the world’s most powerful engine but it sure is the quietest”. |
I have a loony neighbours who are very deep into porcelain. I am wondering is could it be used as the ‘Hot End’
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