Here is a list of all the postings Journeyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Looking to buy a better toolpost|
I fitted a wedge type tool-post to my WM250 some years ago and it works very well. The WM250 is just a little smaller than your lathe but I found the AXA or 100 series to be the right size. Only difficulty I had fitting was replacing the the main tool-post stud which was somewhat larger than the original. Difficulty was mainly down to a raised boss on the top-slide which was too big to fit in the tool-post block and had to be removed. You can't bore out the wedge type tool-post as you can with the piston type.
I did a write up of fitting on Journeyman's Workshop this also details making a cross-slide adapter so that the tool-post can be used without the top-slide in place, very rigid.
Edited By Journeyman on 06/01/2020 09:46:11
|Thread: Strange washers..are they justified?|
The back-plate appears to have been "modified" to accept the screws/bolts. The proper fixing holes are the ones on the outside. I would guess that the back-plate was from a larger chuck originally. There is precious little metal left on the register wall which has been reduced a great deal. Are you sure about the length, 1/2" seems to be very short as the back-plate must be nearly that thickness. A cheese head bolt/screw would do but an allen headed cap screw better if you can find one with the right thread, also check the head diameter that it fits in the available space. No washer necessary and you could as suggested use a little retainer/thread lock if you are worried about the security of the screws.
Edited By Journeyman on 05/01/2020 14:07:37
|Thread: Choice between cheap mini milling machines.|
Basically an unanswerable question, as much like buying a car, beauty is in the eye (bank balance) of the beholder. Have a look at Journeyman's Workshop for my take on milling machine buying.
|Thread: Myford super 7B Chuck threads|
Did a bit of "Googling" apparently they are carriers for a grinding machine but no reason why they couldn't be pressed into service as drive dogs on the lathe.
Interesting and useful collection of parts for the lathe.
Don't know what the items bottom right are and the plate in the centre seems to be the only candidate for a chuck back-plate but too big for the 4-jaw. Down the left hand side are a collection of tool bits, holders and centres which may or may not be useful eventually! Can't ID the item with the cross handle. The block with two round bits just above and left of the catchplate appears to be for offset turning between centres (possibly).
As noted by Rod above the spindle nose thread is not BSW but simply uses the Whitworth thread form.
|Thread: Milling for beginners|
Any chance that the two series on Milling and Lathe for beginners might become a book? Both very good series. The book could incorporate the extra details that appear in this thread and the lathe work thread.
Edited By Journeyman on 31/12/2019 10:00:37
|Thread: Scam ?|
Jason, you left the L behind, it still has the link.
|Thread: 042 Locomotive plans|
Plan by Julius De Waal *** HERE *** for a 3.5" Kerr-Start Brazil 0-4-2 loco. (11 page pdf)
|Thread: Warco WM18 lead screws upgrade|
On the WM14 there is only one handle on the X-axis and I found that by tightening the nyloc nut at the centre of the handle I could remove quite a bit of the backlash from this axis. It might be different with a handle at each end like yours. Similarly with the Y-axis handle some slack can be removed by tightening the nut.
The adjustment on the lead-screw nuts really needs the table removing to get at them. The larger of the two is the X-axis nut. The small holes take M3 allen head bolts to squeeze the slot up
Edit: Add image
Edited By Journeyman on 26/12/2019 16:33:49
On my much smaller WM14 the lead-screw nuts are adjustable by virtue of a split in the nut which can be adjusted by tightening a couple of allen headed bolts. These are not evident without disassembly, I don't know if the WM18 is fitted similarly. On mine much of the backlash comes from the handle end and can be adjusted to take up the slack.
|Thread: Myford bed twist|
Also need to check the tailstock centre is inline with the headstock centre in the vertical plane. Not so easy to correct though.
|Thread: Advice on mobile phone etc|
Might be worth going into the phone/tablet settings, remove the old network details and then power down and re-start the phone. Re-make the wifi connections in settings. It may clear out some old setting that has stuck and revitalize the connection.
|Thread: Non tilting; tilting head.....tilt|
Interesting bit of 'Chinese' engineering in your 1st image above, where the bolts and washers bear on the cast in raided letters rather than a flat surface. Might be worth fettling that whilst it's apart. could make the clamping / rotating / re-fitting a bit smoother.
|Thread: Lead screw gauge|
I assume the bracket arrowed in the image below:
Seems to serve little purpose and looks quite crudely made. Could it be a shipping device?
|Thread: Case Hardening|
Wikipedia has a reasonable description of the case-hardening process and mentions in passing the similar processes of nitriding and boriding amongst other similar surface treatments for low carbon steels.
|Thread: which lathe?|
The answer to the original question "Which Lathe?" is likely to generate a myriad of suggestions as per normal for this illustrious forum. Have a look at Journeyman's Workshop for a few ideas.
|Thread: LPG heater- fumes|
Not only will you get fumes you will also get a lot of water vapour to rust all your machinery. LPG heaters are definitely not recommended for workshop use. Better with a small electric fan heater with a thermostat. The fumes are probably from the added odour unless you have incomplete combustion in which case you may get some carbon monoxide at a very low level but definitely not good for you. Ditch the LPG and go electric.
Edited By Journeyman on 28/11/2019 09:06:46
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Can't remember but definitely not original thinking.
I found it helped on the CY90 saw vice to remove the jaw face from the fixed jaw and fix it to the smaller swivel jaw making them both the same length.
It also helps to add a jack screw to the left side of the swivel jaw so that you can hold short ends without packing, just adjust the screw.
|Thread: Precision Tool Vice Type 2|
“A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.” — Douglas Adams
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.