Here is a list of all the postings Journeyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe run out|
There are plenty of threads on here about lathe alignment (often called lathe levelling). DO NOT undo the four headstock bolts that hold the headstock to the bed - Here Be Dragons.
The long bar is useless as either an indicator or as a means of alignment. Need basically to take any twist from the bed caused by uneven floor before doing anything else, this is done without use of the tailstock.
Once untwisted the tailstock can be checked for alignment .
|Thread: The 'WM' lathe series headstock lubrication|
I have the WM250 (2007 vintage) and like you could find no mention in the manual of main spindle bearing lubrication. As there is no way to get at the bearings I also assume that they are sealed for life. Mine are still fine but definitely not over-used. The definition of 'life' is of course somewhat open to interpretation.
I shall just keep going until either the bearings fail or I do...
|Thread: Small lathe dial suppliers|
This from ** Arc ** might be of use
Whilst the 1mm pitch is a good idea I doubt you would get 100 divisions on a dial only 20mm dia. Each division would be 0.6mm (approx) apart a bit too close, you might manage 50 divisions though which is a nice round number.
Would be useful to know the make and model of lathe, someone might know where spares are available.
Not too difficult to make one on the lathe given minimum equipment. If a chuck or faceplate is available measure the diameter, calculate circumference, divide by number of divisions. Cut paper strip to length and mark on divisions, wrap around chuck/faceplate and rig up suitable pointer. With care can be quite accurate and use this to mark out dial held in chuck or on faceplate use a lathe tool mounted sideways to cut cut divisions. Have a look at my website ** Journeyman's Workshop ** for more detail.
Failing that 3D print one if you have a printer or know someone that has one. Will be sufficiently accurate and should last reasonably long time.
Edit: Add link
Edited By Journeyman on 10/05/2021 14:19:53
|Thread: Advice on removing column from mini-Mill|
I think the mill is similar to this:-
Is there only the one retaining bolt? Other than gently rocking whilst pulling I can think of nothing except as the OP suggests of applying a little leverage.
|Thread: T Handle Allen Key Sets|
That's a neat idea. How did you secure the hex key into the handle? Would make a good beginners project.
|Thread: elmers engines plans|
The problem is that Elmer is using the build instructions and finding that dimension during marking out:-
You will need to do something similar in the drawing using construction lines (Not familiar with Fusion360 so assume it has similar) once you have the centres and the crank offset you can insert the angled lines and finally the ports.
Getting to know the engine by drawing is a good idea. It will also enable scaling and metrication which may alleviate some of the odd screw sizes. I find most of Elmer's engines to be on the small side so upscaling can be helpful if, like me, poor eyesight and unsteady hands, are an issue. The engine you are looking at has a frame that is just 2.25" long. My last attempt at one of Elmer's was his No.19 Standby Engine, the drawing shown below:-
The final outcome was quite reasonable looking engine that runs quite well.
The details and construction are on my website - Journeyman's Workshop Good luck with the drawing and subsequent build.
|Thread: Interesting old chisels|
I think I will go with the 'OXFORD WINS' version... Still no wiser as to why that might appear on the chisel though! (or possibly 'OXFORD WIN5' )
Sharpened a bit with GIMP.
Edited By Journeyman on 02/05/2021 10:03:29
|Thread: Stand for milling machine|
I have my WM14 bench mounted. The bench is extremely sturdy built many years ago 4"x2" frame with 18mm chipboard across the whole back and sides. The top is 2 9"x1.5" timber topped with 18mm chipboard. Would take several people to lift it. Bench bolted to concrete floor and the mill on it's tray bolted firmly to the bench.
When constructing your stand bear in mind operator access, particularly the height. The Z hand-wheel is on top of the column at the rear. If the stand is too high it can be very difficult to turn. I am 6ft tall and the hand-wheel on mine is only just within the comfort zone the bench being some 35" high. I would prefer it a little lower but the bench came a long time before the mill!
|Thread: Four facet drill grinding.|
I got a copy from John Moran (AKA Gadget Builder) try his Email: John at GadgetBuilder.com if you get no joy PM me and I will rummage in the archive and see if I can find it. He sent it to me as a web page.
P.S. Don't forget to change the ' at ' for a @
Edited By Journeyman on 27/04/2021 16:39:10
There is an article by Gadget Builder in HSM (Home Shop Machinist) try this link to his pages there is a whole load of info on drill grinding , jigs and some of the theory. Also a powered 4-facet grinder/jig ** Drill Sharpening **
|Thread: Help please!|
ML1 on early stand (possibly) Have a look at Lathes.co.uk for more info.
|Thread: Gear, Gauge, or Cutter ?|
Dathan are indeed still in business ** LINK ** http://www.dathan.co.uk/
|Thread: Best way to cut/turn a 75mm Disc from a piece of Aluminium Plate|
Yes, something along the lines of:-
I have highlighted the edge in red. Speed as per parting. Make sure inners and outer bits are secured so that they don't come loose at breakthrough. Probably safer to stick to Jason's recommendation and do the last little bit off the lathe.
|Thread: Looking for a block of cast iron please|
Bit less machining in this one! Link in post above.
Can be used with either a QCTP as shown or with the original 4-way toolpost.
If you haven't yet a design in mind have a look at my ** Cross-Slide Toolpost ** for the WM250. Fabricated from steel and doesn't use anything quite as big as 6" x 6" x 3" Article is quite lengthy but also covers fitting a QCTP.
|Thread: Threaded milling cutters|
Not entirely, ER collets have an operating range of 1mm (except the smallest where the range is .5mm) Therefore provided an imperial cutting tool is within the closing range it will be held properly provided the chuck is tightened correctly. Similarly with imperial collets and metric tooling.
It must of course be said that at the limit of closing it needs plenty of applied torque to close the collet down. A cutter larger than the maximum collet size should never be forced in or likely the collet will be damaged.
As the milling cutters would appear to be straight shanked with Clarkson threads the most useful holding arrangement would be an ER chuck with suitable collets. If your machine is the WM14 then the ER25 size is probably right for you. This is the size I use for my WM14. A full set of collets is a bit pricey but you can buy the collets individually as required. ER collets will happily hold straight shank, Clarkson threaded or Weldon shanked cutters without difficulty. Can also be used to hold twist drills, reamers and the like saving the need to keep changing chucks.
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