Here is a list of all the postings Journeyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What collet chuck dimentions for s Sieg SX2?|
Bit late joining this thread but my web page on milling machines has info on (some) of the various taper types and a few useful inks.
|Thread: Saddle stop|
Have a look at this THREAD it may or may not help.
|Thread: Learning CAD with Alibre Atom3D|
It's called Alibre Workshop and is priced at £390.00 (+VAT)
|Thread: Gone to the great workshop in the sky|
Kings Lynn & District Society of Model Engineers - Contact Page - has contacts for the club officials etc. All the best.
|Thread: Why is this guys mini lathe parting off so well?|
Well I think that could be classed as video that demonstrates how NOT to part off. Apart from leaving the chuck key in the chuck, which even on a mini-lathe is a bad move, there are a number of other faults apparent.
I would say that the parting tool holder is too big for that lathe, it has way too much distance between the toolpost and the tool tip. There is clearly much too much slack in the system whether that is from the top-slide gibs, the toolpost clamp or further down I can't tell but you should definitely not be able to see that amount of movement when the cut is applied. The top-slide is wound way too far out, the idea should be to get the tool supported so that a line down from the tool goes through the toolpost, top-slide, cross-slide, saddle, bed. I appreciate that the chap has wound it out so that the tool holder will fit but that just supports the idea that the tool holder is too big for that lathe.
A general tightening of gibs, removing other slack, clamping the saddle to the bed, clamping the top-slide and reducing tool overhang as much as possible would probably get a better result than fancy tool holders and replacing bearings etc.
|Thread: Gear Train noise?|
The gear train disengagement mod as mentioned above (Thank you George) will certainly help but in normal running the most important thing is to set the gear clearances using a sheet of paper between the gears. I find that using plenty of grease also removes some of the clatter!
Edited By Journeyman on 14/10/2020 13:44:21
|Thread: New Workshop building|
Have a look at my write up in Journeyman's Workshop did it a year ago so still fairly current.
|Thread: Where's this rust come from ?|
It is likely that the baize-like material on the bottom of the drawer is a spray-on coating of some description probably a plastic material either applied as one coat or as a dry flock onto a sprayed on adhesive. Would seem likely that the rusting is caused by an adverse reaction between the coating/adhesive and the tool face.
A few choices, as suggested above return as unfit for purpose, further line the drawers with VLC paper or non-slip drawer liner or scrape off the offending coating and apply a new liner. Leaving the old lining in place it may eventually leach through the new liner. The current lining material may eventually "dry" and the volatile/corrosive agent may go.
Seem unlikely to be the wood as this appears to be pine which is usually benign. Hopefully not the varnish either as this should have lost all the volatile agents by now.
Hope you get the problem sorted as it appears to be quite a useful toolmakers cabinet.
|Thread: BOMBSHELL!! ...at last!|
Yes I have also found that. Two different models BHC210V and BHC210VB the B presumably standing for big. I could see no mention of MT5 though on the page I found just the 38mm bore. It all depends where you land from the internet search seems to be several different interlinked sites. It all serves to confuse the unwary. I stand confused!
I was thinking more along the lines of checking the specification actually is what you are getting, which probably applies to any seller.
Interesting if you go to the manufacturers website (Dijin) the model BHC210V is listed as having an MT3 taper in the spindle, a lot smaller than the 38mm suggested! The manufacturer also quotes the power as 650w so everything is going downhill rapidly. From the manufacturers front page if you click on the model you immediately are taken to AliBaba so beware the 40 thieves.
The machine looks a lot like the Weiss models which Chester and Warco sell. I think the phrase "Caveat Emptor" applies to anyone thinking of getting this particular item.
Edited By Journeyman on 30/09/2020 08:49:40
|Thread: A vacuum engine|
Basically the wick needs to touch the flat part of the cylinder next to the slot. The flame needs to be quite large. I think I made mine from an early drawing, I believe Jan has revised the drawing a little and made the cylinder bore larger. Worth getting the latest version from his site.
Good luck with the build.
Video of my effort here. Runs quite well on simple meths burner. Adjustment of flame position is a bit finicky:-
|Thread: Swarf damage|
Which is fine if you only need to work within a limited distance from the headstock, spring loaded roller perhaps or a standard rubber bellows?
Similar to the rubber or leather mentioned above I use a short length of plastic DPC material on my WM250. Has the advantage of being stiff to keep the swarf on top but still bends if it hits the headstock. The bolts go into the holes for the travelling steady so also serves to stop them filling up.
There are of course felt wipers on the front of the saddle as well. Did try leather but found it was too floppy and tended to soak up the way oil.
Edited By Journeyman on 03/09/2020 16:54:13
|Thread: Meaning of numbers|
A useful source of info on the small gantry routers is MYCNCUK worth a look, you could be tempted to go for a home build such as this:-
All the aluminium extrusions and parts readily available and could be much more rigid (and flat) than the el-cheapo oriental ones. There are some designs on there for gantry machines that would probably be more robust than a Bridgeport!
Edit: forgot to put the link in
Edited By Journeyman on 03/09/2020 10:21:32
|Thread: Waste PLA - Rafts, Supports etc|
PLA isn't that bio-degradable. I've made plastic clips that have been outside in the weather for a few years and show no sign of deterioration. Apparently it needs to be finely ground and mixed into soil to degrade, despite being made from basically corn starch. An interesting article on recycling PLA.
|Thread: fitting wedge type qctp to Warco WM240|
You cannot machine out the bore of a wedge type tool-post, there is not enough meat on the central tube that holds it all together. The boss can be machined off or reduced in diameter to fit the tool-post. See Journeyman's Workshop for details of fitting wedge type tool-post to my WM250, it is over a couple of pages as it includes making a a toolpost mount for the cross-slide as well.
|Thread: Myford Apron Dovetail Damage|
Perhaps fill the chip with one of the metal bearing epoxy fillers - JBweld or Devcon Steel for example. Then shape back to match original profile. May prevent the odd piece of swarf getting in there and causing damge.
Edited By Journeyman on 15/07/2020 10:49:28
|Thread: Lamp Post Engine|
Info on preparation of articles for publication is *** HERE *** this is for MEW but presumably similar for ME.
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