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Member postings for Journeyman

Here is a list of all the postings Journeyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Lathe run out
10/05/2021 18:58:17

There are plenty of threads on here about lathe alignment (often called lathe levelling). DO NOT undo the four headstock bolts that hold the headstock to the bed - Here Be Dragons.

The long bar is useless as either an indicator or as a means of alignment. Need basically to take any twist from the bed caused by uneven floor before doing anything else, this is done without use of the tailstock.

Once untwisted the tailstock can be checked for alignment .

John

Thread: The 'WM' lathe series headstock lubrication
10/05/2021 17:02:19

I have the WM250 (2007 vintage) and like you could find no mention in the manual of main spindle bearing lubrication. As there is no way to get at the bearings I also assume that they are sealed for life. Mine are still fine but definitely not over-used. The definition of 'life' is of course somewhat open to interpretation.

I shall just keep going until either the bearings fail or I do...

John

Thread: Small lathe dial suppliers
10/05/2021 15:48:54

This from ** Arc ** might be of use

John

10/05/2021 14:36:30

Whilst the 1mm pitch is a good idea I doubt you would get 100 divisions on a dial only 20mm dia. Each division would be 0.6mm (approx) apart a bit too close, you might manage 50 divisions though which is a nice round number.

John

10/05/2021 14:11:08

Would be useful to know the make and model of lathe, someone might know where spares are available.

Not too difficult to make one on the lathe given minimum equipment. If a chuck or faceplate is available measure the diameter, calculate circumference, divide by number of divisions. Cut paper strip to length and mark on divisions, wrap around chuck/faceplate and rig up suitable pointer. With care can be quite accurate and use this to mark out dial held in chuck or on faceplate use a lathe tool mounted sideways to cut cut divisions. Have a look at my website ** Journeyman's Workshop **  for more detail.

Failing that 3D print one if you have a printer or know someone that has one. Will be sufficiently accurate and should last reasonably long time.

John

Edit: Add link

Edited By Journeyman on 10/05/2021 14:19:53

Thread: Advice on removing column from mini-Mill
10/05/2021 10:18:51

I think the mill is similar to this:-

tiltmill.jpg

Is there only the one retaining bolt? Other than gently rocking whilst pulling I can think of nothing except as the OP suggests of applying a little leverage.

John

Thread: T Handle Allen Key Sets
09/05/2021 09:38:33
Posted by Anthony Knights on 09/05/2021 08:19:21:

I made my set myself (because I could).

That's a neat idea. How did you secure the hex key into the handle? Would make a good beginners project.

John

Thread: elmers engines plans
07/05/2021 13:02:26
Posted by Ceteri on 07/05/2021 12:01:57:

I can't see how far up or down on the frame the holes should be though. There also doesn't appear to be an exact position for the air inlet hole. I must be missing how to read something!

elmerwobbler.jpg

The problem is that Elmer is using the build instructions and finding that dimension during marking out:-

instruct.jpg

You will need to do something similar in the drawing using construction lines (Not familiar with Fusion360 so assume it has similar) once you have the centres and the crank offset you can insert the angled lines and finally the ports.

John

07/05/2021 10:12:29

Getting to know the engine by drawing is a good idea. It will also enable scaling and metrication which may alleviate some of the odd screw sizes. I find most of Elmer's engines to be on the small side so upscaling can be helpful if, like me, poor eyesight and unsteady hands, are an issue. The engine you are looking at has a frame that is just 2.25" long. My last attempt at one of Elmer's was his No.19 Standby Engine, the drawing shown below:-

standby.jpg

The final outcome was quite reasonable looking engine that runs quite well.

assemrun.jpg

The details and construction are on my website - Journeyman's Workshop Good luck with the drawing and subsequent build.

John

Thread: Interesting old chisels
02/05/2021 10:02:24

I think I will go with the 'OXFORD WINS' version... Still no wiser as to why that might appear on the chisel though! (or possibly 'OXFORD WIN5' )

oxfordwins.jpg

Sharpened a bit with GIMP.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 02/05/2021 10:03:29

Thread: Stand for milling machine
28/04/2021 09:20:23

I have my WM14 bench mounted. The bench is extremely sturdy built many years ago 4"x2" frame with 18mm chipboard across the whole back and sides. The top is 2 9"x1.5" timber topped with 18mm chipboard. Would take several people to lift it. Bench bolted to concrete floor and the mill on it's tray bolted firmly to the bench.

wm14bench.jpg

When constructing your stand bear in mind operator access, particularly the height. The Z hand-wheel is on top of the column at the rear. If the stand is too high it can be very difficult to turn. I am 6ft tall and the hand-wheel on mine is only just within the comfort zone the bench being some 35" high. I would prefer it a little lower but the bench came a long time before the mill!

John

Thread: Four facet drill grinding.
27/04/2021 16:38:08
Posted by Douglas Johnston on 27/04/2021 16:06:24:

That is an interesting 4 facet grinder. Does anybody happen to have a copy of the article from HSM as I would love to have a look at it.

Doug

I got a copy from John Moran (AKA Gadget Builder) try his Email: John at GadgetBuilder.com if you get no joy PM me and I will rummage in the archive and see if I can find it. He sent it to me as a web page.

John

P.S. Don't forget to change the ' at ' for a @

Edited By Journeyman on 27/04/2021 16:39:10

26/04/2021 17:18:45

There is an article by Gadget Builder in HSM (Home Shop Machinist) try this link to his pages there is a whole load of info on drill grinding , jigs and some of the theory. Also a powered 4-facet grinder/jig ** Drill Sharpening **

John

Thread: Help please!
26/04/2021 11:07:02

ML1 on early stand (possibly) Have a look at Lathes.co.uk for more info.

John

Thread: Gear, Gauge, or Cutter ?
24/04/2021 16:36:06

Dathan are indeed still in business ** LINK ** http://www.dathan.co.uk/

John

Thread: Best way to cut/turn a 75mm Disc from a piece of Aluminium Plate
23/04/2021 16:48:59
Posted by Greensands on 23/04/2021 16:31:55:

If opting for the trepanning route, what would be the recommended spindle speed? Presumably a tool ground as for a parting off operation but perhaps provided with a bit more side clearance would be the tool of choice?

Yes, something along the lines of:-

trepan tool.jpg

I have highlighted the edge in red. Speed as per parting. Make sure inners and outer bits are secured so that they don't come loose at breakthrough. Probably safer to stick to Jason's recommendation and do the last little bit off the lathe.

John

Thread: Looking for a block of cast iron please
18/04/2021 15:42:46

Bit less machining in this one! Link in post above.

toolpost.jpg

Can be used with either a QCTP as shown or with the original 4-way toolpost.

John

17/04/2021 06:56:34

If you haven't yet a design in mind have a look at my ** Cross-Slide Toolpost ** for the WM250. Fabricated from steel and doesn't use anything quite as big as 6" x 6" x 3" Article is quite lengthy but also covers fitting a QCTP.

John

Thread: Threaded milling cutters
16/04/2021 15:59:16
Posted by old mart on 16/04/2021 15:37:35:

If the size on the cutter is metric, you will need metric collets, and with inch/fraction sizes you will need inch size collets, they are NOT interchangable. That holds good for any variety of threaded collet.

Not entirely, ER collets have an operating range of 1mm (except the smallest where the range is .5mm) Therefore provided an imperial cutting tool is within the closing range it will be held properly provided the chuck is tightened correctly. Similarly with imperial collets and metric tooling.

It must of course be said that at the limit of closing it needs plenty of applied torque to close the collet down. A cutter larger than the maximum collet size should never be forced in or likely the collet will be damaged.

John

16/04/2021 14:15:33

As the milling cutters would appear to be straight shanked with Clarkson threads the most useful holding arrangement would be an ER chuck with suitable collets. If your machine is the WM14 then the ER25 size is probably right for you. This is the size I use for my WM14. A full set of collets is a bit pricey but you can buy the collets individually as required. ER collets will happily hold straight shank, Clarkson threaded or Weldon shanked cutters without difficulty. Can also be used to hold twist drills, reamers and the like saving the need to keep changing chucks.

John

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