Here is a list of all the postings Buffer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Threading Problems on Colchester Student|
I found a new way to mess up work once. I was engaging the power feed and not the half nuts. I was so angry at not knowing why it wouldn't work I gave up trying to cut a thread in the lathe for about 5 years.
|Thread: Hardening a form tool made from Gauge Plate|
I have just had a success by heating it to carrot colour then quenching in brine. Perhaps it was cooling to slowly in the oil. As advised I also didn't temper it I just took it easy and it works well.
Anyway thanks to all of you who offered advice. I can now make accurate form tools that work.
Jim it was bought off an ebay seller who says it meets bs specs but that's as much as I know. I have no other way to.telll if it's of a good quality.
Think I'll just get it real hot and try it without tempering. I have used it on brass so even if it doesnt harden enough it's not totally useless.
Om so I will quench in brine and ias I cant accurately gauge the temp is it worth just giving it full blast with the gas. Can it get too hot? Or am I likely to just be wasting gas.
I have just had two failed attempts to harden a form tool made from a piece of steel sold as Gauge Plate 01 20x8mm. Its being made to cut mild steel and I heated it to red heat for 10mins then quenched in engine oil. I tempered the first at 230 C (Peter Wright Model Engineering Foundation Course) in the oven then the second at 190 C (Tubal Cain Hardening &Tempering). Both were not hard enough to cut the mild steel on the lathe.
If its not hot enough would it be ok to just blast it with the burner to get it much hotter or do I need to try and be more accurate with the temperature.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
If your not using it for CNC and you have made no calculations of load you might as well not worry about good or bad ones. Just get a big one and hope no bits of your little pink body are near it.
|Thread: Fire bricks|
fire bricks are low thermal conductivity on the Vitcas website and others.
Point taken about making sure they are dry but I have never had one spall, they are under an old metal box.
Well I use firebricks. Cheap (about £6) easy to get (buildabase etc) heat proof, low thermal conductivity. Stack nicely into a hearth can be left outside. Never had any problem silver soldering with them. I have seen these vermiculite slabs break easily and break down with bits under the job breaking of and sticking to jobs when the flux and work get hot.
Edited By Richard brown 1 on 22/05/2019 20:20:10
|Thread: Loco hand pump casting from Reeves|
That's thinking outside the box, well my one anyway. It never occurred to me that they could be like this.
Shame its not just one pump though obviously twice the work.
Thanks for taking the time to draw this up.
Have you shot any more machines yet?
|Thread: Equipment required|
If you want to know what sort of features are useful or what a lathe can do a good book is The Amateurs Lathe by Lawrence Sparey. Its a very good text on what you can do with a lathe. It was this book that made me realise that lathes don't just turn round stuff.
Good luck with the build.
|Thread: Loco hand pump casting from Reeves|
Here is the drawing that Reeves sent me when I asked for one. Its not Black 5 and I think its only half the drawing as it doesn't show how you fit these things together.
Baz the Black 5 doesn't have an axle pump it uses two injectors. These casting are identical and appear to fit together some how but I am clueless how. Not even sure if they are a Don Young design for something else. I will PM you for the pics.
Now I can help you with that. What you have there is the regulator casting. Middle of sheet 9
Edited By Richard brown 1 on 20/05/2019 16:41:06
I recently had a bit of credit with Reeves so I bought the Hand Pump Casting for my Don Young Black 5. I was surprised when these two small castings turned up.
Reeves are convinced that these are correct even though they are nothing like the DY Designs drawings. I told them they are not like the drawing so then they then sent me the drawing that they are photographed on but I'm not sure that's correct for the castings either. I also think some more of the drawings are missing.
My question is do any loco builders recognise this pump casting and if so is it for a DY Designs Black 5 or something else?
Also do these two pumps fit together somehow to be double acting? In the drawing the right hand end of the pump drawing seems to have a plate or something missing. Is this were the casting fit back to back?
Hope you can help.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
I reckon I could shoot a peatol lathe with that at 25m.
Cant believe sillly old duffer shoots his equipment when he gets bored. Good job it was just an air pistol. What does he do to them if he gets angry ?
|Thread: Drilling cast iron - where did I go wrong?|
I haven't had this problem in cast iron and I have made some bigger and smaller holes than that.
1100rpm sounds fast to me but i'm no expert. Have you tried going slower? I would personally go quite a lot slower when I do it.
|Thread: WHERE ARE THE SHAPER USERS ?|
Here are a few photos of my shear tool. It is just cut diagonal across the end and then the tip is rounded on the bench grinder. It gives a superb finish. The little nick on the end is just a left over from its previous use. In the first picture the top face is the face that faces the forwards in the machine.
|Thread: Form Tool Sharpening|
Thanks for the advice, lots of techniques here.
I like the idea of grinding paste on a spinning bar might give that a go first.
Ian what bits do you use in the dremel? The little grinding wheels that came with it just wear themselves away.
Ok thanks. The dremel wheels I have had in the past have always just worn themselves away more than the metal!
I will look for a rounded stone
Thanks for the advice
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