Here is a list of all the postings Buffer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Levelling Myford Super 7|
I guess it's not important for some work but I think most people who try to level a bed actually level the bed not just level the error. I would properly level it then do the turning test on about a 4 od 5 in h long bar to take out any taper.
Choice is yours really, does it matter if your parts are tapered?
|Thread: Buying a used car|
It's an old private hire car or taxi if if had that many MOTs
|Thread: Loco Cylinder Casting Pattern Advice|
Noel thanks for that I will probably get one as I'm hoping to do quite a bit of casting. I'm about as far as you can get from the sea in the UK.
Luker thanks for the offer of sorting out the the gates etc, I'll take you up on that offer. I will probably go for the gunmetal that you listed in backyard foundry part four (85%Cu 10%SN 5% Brass) as I have plenty of scrap copper form my boiler build and I'm pretty sure I can get more quite easily. Unless you think there might be something better that is. When I've finished the model I'll be back in touch.
The way I do it I think most of the Zinc goes up in smoke!
I'm not sure where I could find any old water pumps, I see online silicon bronze is easy to get but it apparently doesn't machine too well.
Thanks for the advice chaps. Having read this I do have a couple more questions now.
I think I can understand Lukers idea, part of the pattern is being propped up on sand which makes sense.
Jason, I sort of get your idea after an awful lot of looking at this wondering but I might not be fully there yet. It's really hard to try and imagine that model being a hole in a box of sand! So the boss on the end of the valve part of the cylinder has a rectangle on it to avoid the undercuts that would be at the 1 and 5 o'clock positions (top drawing where the red circle cuts the green line)?
Luker, can you tell me what sort of radius I should put on the corners and what sort of draft angle do you use, that's dead easy to change on the model? Do you increase your patterns for shrinkage? I was thinking of just giving myself an ample machining allowance all over. Where would you put the in and out gates or does it not matter too much? And lastly I was going to dig out your old article (always a good read by the way) on metal composition because the cylinders are available as iron or gunmetal at a whopping £395 for gunmetal. I think you're in South Africa so that's R7800 hence my interest in having a go myself. I have lots of scrap brass and I didn't know if brass cylinders would be any good or if not what's the chance of making a sort of gunmetal from my brass.
Anyway thanks again its all very much appreciated. I cast my smoke box rings recently from brass and they look superb now they're all machined up. I think it's fair to say that all the recent casting articles from Luker and others over the last couple of years are what got me to try this and the silly grin lasted for ages when this lump came out of the sand.
Having seen so many casting articles in ME lately I have been doing a bit myself and below is a photo of the end of my CAD model for a Black 5. I was going to make a split pattern for sand casting with bosses where the bores are for core prints. Question is as the cylinder and valve bores are not inline I can't split the pattern through either bore so where do I split it to get it out of the sand? Please ignore the bit at the top as this will also be re shaped to aid removal. Anyone got any ideas?
Edited By Buffer on 20/04/2021 14:34:49
|Thread: Recommended suppliers and services|
I have just had good service from Drill Service. I needed some small good quality drills to drill all the rivet holes in my smokebox. I didnt want to snap anything. They sent me overnight all the drills I needed, none of the shiny Chinese things that you get in a set but good quality low helix drills. I will definitely use them again.
|Thread: Loco wheel profile chatter|
When I had chatter I slowed the lathe right down and in the end pulled it over by hand for the last few revs and the chatter marks were all scraped away.
|Thread: Tom Senior s head alternatives?|
I have just looked at your Tom Senior and your lathe. How have you got such a nice shine on all the bare metal parts? My Tom has that dull brown look about it and I've never really found a good way of polishing it up like yours.
Some people have raised the coloumn up on a box or bought a scrap machine and taken a slice of that coloumn and fitted it to the bottom. They are getting a bit expensive now though. I also have a large cube that I used to mount work onto then mill with the knuckle head on its side, in the end I found a vertical head.
Edited By Buffer on 01/04/2021 09:18:29
|Thread: There may be a delay in some deliveries ...|
|Thread: Gravity and Weightlessnes|
John I have also noticed the car air con thing. One thing that confuses me is that if my pants have been put away inside out. When I turn them the right way round they somehow turn themselves back to front at the same time. How?
|Thread: Loco Lamps|
Well thanks for all the info, that's great about the ME article my club has a full set of ME so I will go and dig those out.
Noel that would be great, I guess all I really need is the LWH of the bottom box I guess the diameter of the lens and maybe the height to the top of the can on top. Then I can pretty much guesstimate the rest.
Jon I am in the midlands so a long way form you, thanks for the offer though. Is there any chance of getting a few basic measurements of your lamp? With just a few dimensions I can make the rest fit. At the moment I'm not sure if they are 6 inches across or a foot so a few basic dimensions will get me going.
Does anyone happen to have a drawing of an LMS Style steam engine loco lamp or in fact any other steam engine loco lamp for that matter? Or does anyone have some rough dimensions so I can at least have a stab at making my own drawings? I cant find one online and the only way I can make the drawing is to try and scale things off photos which is never that easy.
|Thread: Poor Surface finish|
I can definitely recommend a tangential turning tool form Eccentric Engineering then, the link is on this site. It only has one side to grind and that is flat. It can be done with a linisher, which is what I do or touched on the flat side of the grinding wheel. The jig that comes with it takes care of the angles. It is my most used tool and it leaves a great finish on Steel Ali and Brass with no messing about whatsoever. You just need to give the top and sides a light rub on an oil stone to get a superb finish. It seems pricey but it honestly works very well.
There is a good video on you tube by Oxtools. Where he shows finishing a hss tool on an oil stone. Each time he cuts some steel he says "yeah it's not bad but I think I can do better than that." So you get to see how finishing the hss improves the finish on the work. Worth watching in my opinion.
|Thread: RML Cannon of 7"|
Rod that's the 100 ton gun, there is another in Gibraltar.
Quick update, I have made a bit more progress on the slide. I thought there wasn't many bits in one of these but that was a mistake.
|Thread: Solidworks help please|
You've fixed it!! I saved it as a parasolid (whatever that means) and it worked. Thanks so much I have wasted hours on this.
Emgee and SOD thanks for your input as well but its all done now.
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