Here is a list of all the postings Buffer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Scraping a magbase|
Are you scraping away all the blue? I think you need to start breaking the blue up into smaller pieces each time. Do a rub on the plate and put up a picture.
|Thread: Fly press weights.|
Float from a toilet valve in sand then pour in molten lead.
|Thread: Lathes as bling!|
If you go and pap ducks for fun, seriously how often are you going to look a the photos.
|Thread: The cultural status of engineers in the UK|
Was it Das Boot
|Thread: Keyway Broaching|
|Thread: Lessons ML7|
Allen I can recommend the book The Amateurs Lathe by Lawrence Sparey. Well worth a few pounds and was quite an eye opener for me when I saw the different things you can do. Regards Rich.
|Thread: Soldering a tender|
Duncan no you dont need an account for rs but they wont send leaded solder to a private address it's for professional use only and needs to go to a business. I know this as I had orders for it declined until I sent it to a business.
Phil I used a dremel micro torch and I have distorted sheet with that. I think they just have too much heat concentrated on two small an area. I am sure the trick to avoid warping is to get the whole lot upto a decent temperature. One guy in our club even put his in the kitchen oven to get it all warmed up evenly and it worked. Regards Rich
Here is is the little tool i use to clean up after soldering. Its a little mini scraper made from a piece of 12mm wide x1.5mm thick carbide scraper blade silver soldered to a steel rod. A flat edge is put on it just like any other scraper with a diamond wheel and then run it along the joints. It works very well on flat and in corners. The solder comes off as easy as anything in nice little curls and as it's so small it leaves very clean corner joints.
Phil if you can get it off the sole plate thats great news as you should have no problem to get some emery or a garyflex along the entire length of the edge of the angle and the sides and get all the edges really cleaned up. Your then half way there.
Phil If you can get your joints apart I would tin them first. get them nice and shiny then flux solder and wipe the solder away when its still hot and runny. You will then have a nice thin solder coating on both sides of the joint. You want to wipe the excess off so your joints go back together nicely. You should get no distortion as long as the volunteer keeps the hot air moving and then just blasts the bit your doing as you do it. When youve done it I will show you a great tool for cleaning up the joints on the outside.
Off topic a bit but I used oxy acetylene on my boiler after it had been pre heated with gas torches. Again this was no problem and works very well if you have the use of this kit.
Edited By Richard brown 1 on 04/12/2019 14:32:30
Phil I have just finished soldering up my 5 inch tender. The best advice I can give is to clean all the joint areas, I use a blue garyflex block from cousins. The flux I use is fluxite in the green tin. I think the fumes from this might corrode machinery so keep the door open and maybe cover any machine etc. Get an old small brush so you can spread it easily along the joints and I don't think you can use too much. The most important thing I found after warping the sole plate with a gas torch was to use a lead based solder as it melts about 50 degrees lower than the non lead variety. You can buy it from rs components about 1.2mm diameter and about 250 gram roll. You will need a business account to buy it or find someone in a company to get it for you. The lower melting point makes a huge difference in the amount of heat required and the chances of warping. The second thing I did was use an electric hot air gun to pre warm the tender paying particular attention to the bit I was about to solder. Heating the inside of the corner and the outside. I found it made the heating from the soldering iron much quicker and easier and it also helped in making the solder flow nicely. I used a very large soldering iron of over 100 watt. Hopefully if you get the joints clean fluxed and hot enough you should have no problems. One last thing I did was prop the body at 45 degrees with the corner I am about to solder at the bottom and level. This way the solder doesn't all run down to the sole plate but stays on the angle along its length.
hope this is all clear if not just ask and I will send pictures or explain more.
|Thread: Long bed lathes affected by the tide|
If he wasn't told that he would probably have been sent to stores for a long wait, striped paint left handed screwdriver etc.
|Thread: Scale Field Gun or Howitzer plans|
I guess you have the Ken Musgrave 4 view drawing thats the one I have.
|Thread: Rounding the ends of pullrods|
Thanks for all the replies. I might try the hanging in a vice option that sounds quick to set up then maybe the plate with pins on the linnisher.
On the loco I am building there are a lot of pull rods and cranks for the brake gear that need rounded ends. There are lots of different sized rods with different radius and hole sizes. Don Young says grip it with mole grips and radius with an endmill over a mandrel. I don't really like the sound of that. I have thought of making a plate with a peg and rotating them against a linnisher. Has anyone got any thoughts or good ideas, jigs, etc that will help to do this quickly and accurately.
|Thread: Aircraft General Discussion|
Parachutist have the right idea. Jump out of that shed as soon as you can.
Edited By Richard brown 1 on 18/11/2019 18:02:06
|Thread: Scale Field Gun or Howitzer plans|
there is a book called Early British quick firing artillery By Len Trawin. This has very detailed drawings of guns carriages and all the gubbins that go with them. They are not working drawings that you can build from they are just detailed cut aways, sections some technical drawings and explanations of all the parts. It might also be worth contacting the tank museum in bovington. They have a lot of technical drawings of tanks and might also have artillery. The imperial war museum also has a lot of handbooks for artillery and these often contain three view drawings to scale. I can give you some good drawings of the BL 15 inch howitzer but again you would have to use these to make you own plans.
|Thread: Lifting A Tom Senior Light Vertical|
I have moved my Tom senior four times now and I have always taken the table and knee off a lifted the main coloumn off the base. I lifted it with a light alloy scaffold pole through the top holes. Two strongish blokes can lift the coloumn and I have always built a breeze block staircase next to the machine. This way we can lift it in short stages and have a rest as it is very heavy. I have also moved it on my own intact many times by crow barming it up onto broom handles then it rolls very easily.
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges|
If you put the spring loaded bars vertical but hold the handle up about 20 degrees then snug up the lock. The bars are lightly clamped too big for the bore then push the handle down to about -20 and take it out. They have then been squashed down to the bore size and wont be disturbed whilst withdrawing from the bore. I get good measurements like this with no skill needed.
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