Here is a list of all the postings D.A.Godley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Oxy propane guidance|
I have tried , within another thread , to ask for guidance in respect of the kit required to braze and Silver solder using Oxy propane , but the advice was Not forthcoming.
Could I try again , but ask for more specific advice ? .
What Oxygen gauge is most suitable for this process , not a gauge make , but the pressure range it controls . I have seen several that range from 0 to 4 Bar , and up to 10 Bar outflow , but I haven’t a clue which will work best .
I have no intention to use the kit for cutting , only for Brazing / Silver Soldering in the construction of smaller 7 1/4 “ loco’s .
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
Didn’t I hear that Amazon were going to use drones to deliver goods , perhaps they got the wrong postcode , and it can’t decide whether to dump it over the fence , or return it to the depot ? .
|Thread: Oxy Acetylene or Oxy Propane?|
Like Brian H , I am contemplating putting together a Oxy/Propane kit .
I have a Sievert propane set up currently which has the regulator shown below . The regulator has a hose failure system built in but does not have a gauge of any sort on it .
Would some kind person , who has the knowledge and experience , inform me of what is required . Do I bin the regulator in favour of one with a gauge ,or even use an acetylene gauge , and what pressure range is best adopted .
Likewise , with the Oxygen side of things , gauge advice would be appreciated.
I understand that flash back arresters are required , is it the same acetylene type which is used for the propane supply ? .
I have read the posts above , I have looked at the links , watched YouTube and searched the web , but I just can’t seem to get a clear picture of what exactly is needed.
I fear that if I go to one of my local welding equipment stores , they will sell me what they have rather than what I need , if you understand me , whereas, I know that in this forum , I can get unbiased, and genuinely helpful guidance.
|Thread: DTI Glass replacement|
Thanks H , and others for interest shown , I will give the doubleboost line a try .
Does anyone know of an establishment/ business , in or around the Birmingham area , where I can get the broken glass in one of my DTI’s replaced .
There is no other issue with the piece , just broken glass , and I can’t figure out how to remove the glass retaining bezel.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
A few evenings back , I was re reading some old ME magazines, and in the September 2004 copy , I came across an article penned by our illustrious editor “ Neil” detailing his design for a Clarke 300 spindle turning handle .
As it happens, I was considering making one for my bigger Lathe , but since this would also be of help , on a lathe I use to produce small parts , I thought I would give it a go .
I have finished it today and I must say , I am pretty impressed with it . I shall now upscale the design to suite my larger Lathe , thank you Neil , just the ticket .
|Thread: bronze bar|
I would recommend John Keatley ( Metals) Ltd , they can normally supply most items we need .
0121 236 4300 Birmingham . www.johnkeatleymetals.com
I have no connection to them other than as a satisfied customer .
|Thread: Bench Mounting a Warco WM280V|
As you say , a spacer is needed between the Lathe bed mounting feet and the bench top .
I simply cut some ply to fit the space beneath the drip tray , but which supported the feet. The securing bolts went through the tray , the spacer and the bench to ensure complete stability , though the fixing holes in the feet were a challenge to get the bolts through ! .
|Thread: Obtaining flat bronze bar|
If you have not yet sourced this material , give John Keatley Metals a call .
They are i Birmingham 33-35 Shadwell Street , B4 6HD. 0121 236 4300. , have a web site which should indicate their stock lines , and are a most helpful company from whom i and many colleagues purchase our model making materials from.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Warco. WM280V-F|
Dave ; well done with the album, I am sure it will be useful going forward! .
Les ; Today I turned the Lathe through 90 degrees so that I could access the rear panel, during a check on the wire connections I discovered that ( see photo of connector block 13/12/17 ) one of the two brown wires , which were joined in a white jointer , had come adrift ,though was still within the sheath. Despite it being loose, it must still have been making contact , hence the machine working ? .
Not having connectors of that type , I removed it , soldered the two wires together , and replaced them in the connector block .
I haven’t yet had time to swing the Lathe back , (note to myself , I must try it running before I do that ) but I am confident it will be ok , thanks again .
Les ; I am afraid I have to own up to an indulgence of laziness! , the Lathe has been performing well and the thought of undoing the 6 clamping bolts and swinging it round through 90 degrees was too much ,However , now you have highlighted my sloth, and since I am spared certain domestic chores this week , I will get the job done .
In fairness , it is remiss of me to ask for , and receive assistance , and then not respond in a way which may help others , thanks for the prompt .
|Thread: Anyone shed light on this?|
Top left looks to me like a tangential thread cutting piece from a Landis head ,top right tap removal tool , centre next to reamer appears to be a knurling tool . Pass on other items .
|Thread: Warco. WM280V-F|
Les ; you are right I shall have to bite the bullet and crank the Lathe round so that I can get to the rear properly and fix it , thanks .
Dave ; thank you also for taking time out to send photos of the specific bits that I need to examine , most helpful! , as per above , will do
Regards both ,
Les ; again thank you .
Rather than unbolt the machine and swing it away from the wall , I removed the front plate ( on which the speed indicator is mounted ) and found just behind it the filter board , what luck, thought I .
Not being versed in the arts of the electrician, I could see the terminals you spoke of , but they appeared well protected with no opportunity to touch my meter too, there were also out terminals with similar markings . That aside , I carefully rested the front plate securely, and replaced the plug into the mains socket , I then switched on and to my surprise, the display light up ? . Why I have no idea , but I accepted this stroke of good fortune and replaced all to its normal state .
I have since been starting and stopping the machine quite normally whilst cutting the thread that I started out on .
Les , I must thank you , and all who contribute when the likes of me have a problem , if you don’t fix the issue , you at the very least give us the confidence to have a look and even a go at doing stuff we would probably shirk away from otherwise . Thank you .
All appears well with the Lathe now .
Les : thanks , how do I identify the filter board , can you direct me in relation to the Contactor ( which caused my last problem and which I now recognise) and the VFD unit , which even with my very limited ability , is recognisable? .
John ; the micro switch bayonet on the change wheel cover was loose when the incident occurred , and it was after replacing the cover that the speed display light panel died . I can understand the logic of the motor not working if the cover was not properly positioned, but I don’t understand why it would cause the speed display to loose power ?
Thank you both in the meantime, for taking interest .
Regards, David .
Sorry ; it’s me again !
It came to pass , today , that I wanted to do a bit of screw cutting , So , after much faffing about with the gear train to give me the desired TPI , I was ready to make swarf .
As I switched the power on at the socket , I noticed the speed display light up , and then go blank , as in No light .
The fan is working , I can hear that , and if I try to start the machine , I hear the contacts pulling in , but no action by way of spindle movement .
Has anyone experienced such a problem ? And does anyone have a clue as to what the fault might be .
Since it is late Saturday afternoon , I have not been able to obtain any assistance from Warco as yet , but I have every confidence in the forum members .
|Thread: Case Hardening|
The Midlands cover quite an area , are you close to Dudley at all , if so I can recommend a place that treated the leaf springs for my locomotive.
They are professionals , did a wonderful job at the sort of price we appreciate, and I have no connection with them other than having once used them .
|Thread: Warco. WM280V-F|
Just a quick update ,
Dave and Mike , thanks , you were both quite right in that the wire should be fastened in to A2 .
It was so easy with the rear of the machine accessible, I released the Contactor from its mounting and was able to replace the wire into A2 and fix it good , taking the opportunity to ensure all others were solid also . The Contactor was then replaced , all other bits fitted back , and Hey presto ! I have a working Lathe , ( bliss ) .
It is such a relief that all is well , and also that there are so many knowledgeable members on the forum who are happy to resolve someone’s problems , thank you all .
Hi SOD (Dave)
Your clearly a wizard of some sort , turning my photo the right way up , magic ! , and since the blue wire was discovered on the base of the box between the inverter and the Contactor , I have every confidence in your analysis being spot on too .
Tomorrow, given time , and managements permision following completion of domestic duties , I shall have a good look at the bottom of the Contactor and try to find the fixing location for the loose wire .
Thank you all who have responded , much appreciated .
Managed ( without lifting ) to spin the machine through 90degs , and am now able to access the electrics box .
Again thanks to all for your Input , SOD , my workshop is so tight , me and a long handled screwdriver won’t fit at the same time hence spinning the Lathe .
Above new photo of Contactor and below shot of underside
This is upside down ,that said , is that blue wire the one you suspect is missing SOD ? .
I have put a mutimeter over the micro switch and proved that it is making and breaking as it is supposed to.
I shall certainly check that all wires are firmly fixed whilst I have the back open .
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