Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Drill sharpener|
I've got one and am very pleased with it. I've used it with 3mm up to 8mm drills with success every time.
|Thread: Setting lathe top slide angle accurately.|
I know this reply is slightly off-topic, but thought I'd mention it anyway.
Joe's videos are usually interesting, and this was no exception, but those adverts!!!
The advertisers must be oblivious to the fact that incredibly mistimed interruptions do not endear viewers with good feelings about the content of the interrupt. Personally, it turns me off, and I wouldn't contemplate buying whatever they're pushing.
|Thread: Bought it, never used it.|
Many years ago I went to the ME Exhibition at Picket's Lock, North London and treated myself to a 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, which was duly delivered in a crate to my address in the Midlands.
The crate was a bit bigger than I thought and was placed into a corner of my cellar workshop, next to the CH boiler, until I was able to clear a space for the machine. The years passed and every now and again I thought about opening it, but there was still not enough room.
Eventually, the 35 year old CH boiler gave up the ghost and the replacement condensing version had to be installed in the garage, which left a space for the bandsaw. A couple of years ago I got round to opening the crate and found the receipt, dated 1997 - only 19 years ago. The saw was still as-new and does sterling service.
|Thread: Tiffany & Co Advert with lathe|
Why would Tiffany think that that Ad would encourage anybody to buy their jewellery?
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
They should also be fined a considerable amount (possibly the value of their houses) as a small token towards apologising to the thousands of people who suffered financial loss and massive inconvenience.
|Thread: Centec DRO|
I use a program called "Faststone Capture". Strange name for a really useful program. Been using it for years now. Here's a **LINK**
Do these help?
First off, plumber's solder and silver solder are very different things and require totally different temperatures and fluxes to flow. Plumber's solder melts at around 230-250C and silver solder around 650-750C. Both require a flux to prevent oxides forming when heat is applied, but the fluyxes are very different. Silver solder creates far stronger joints than plumber's solder., but although either can be used to join steel items, silver solder is the recommended way to go.
The flux for silver solder is usually sold as a powder that is mixed with a little water to form a thin paste with the consistency of thickish cream. A drop of washing-up liquid will help it wetting the work. It is also possible to get the flux as a liquid.
The basic process is to flux the surfaces that you want to solder and then start heating the joint area with a blowlamp. The joint area must be clean - solder will not flow over dirt or oxide. The flux does a certain amount of cleaning, but don't rely on it entirely.
Initially, the flux will bubble and become slightly foamy, but will clear with continued heating. Typically, the solder wire/rod is dipped into some flux and then touched onto the joint area. If the joint is hot enough the solder will melt and flow into it, otherwise remove the solder and continue heating. The solder will flow towards the heat, so it is important to heat the joint and remember that small items heat up quicker than large items. Play the flame mostly on the large item so that the joint area for both reaches the correct temperature at the same time. If the solder melts into balls that don't flow into the joint then the the joint isn't hot enough - or you have taken too long and burnt the flux. Two or three minutes is too long. If this occurs, cool the job down, remove the burnt flux, clean the joint and start again.
I hope this helps.
|Thread: For discussing the merits of alternative 3D CAD programs.|
Thanks Eddie, that was very clear and interesting. I've never seen Rail-revolve before.
Thank you Eddie, that was much clearer. Did you drill the centre before or after turning the profile? If after, how did you hold it?
Without any form of commentary, it was more like a conjurer pulling rabbits from a hat.
|Thread: Fitting an adjustable damper to my power saw|
|Thread: Understanding plans.|
Center line shown, but no hidden lines.
Unfortunately, whilst your example shows a 3rd angle drawing, the projection symbol (the little cone) depicts 1st angle. Or am I confused?
|Thread: Twin Tube HF fluorescent lighting for the workshop|
I replaced the 3 twin 6ft fluorescent tubes (not HF) in my workshop with LEDs. My old eyes cannot detect any flickering or strobe effects. The LEDs are far better with a cleaner, purer, light. And instant on/off.
|Thread: Introducing Arduino|
Hmm, it worked OK with my free version of PDFill PDF Tools 9.0
|Thread: What bearings for a submersible wheelchair?|
I suggest you read my post timed at 10:03:23
Hi Ian, I know such wheelchairs are available in NZ, Australia, and the USA, but apparently not here in UK.
Thanks for all the good advice. Here's the background to my requirements.
I do voluntary work for the Remap charity (the church-door handrail shown in last month's MEW was one of mine) and neither the swimming club nor the charity can afford to spend much. The hydraulic lift consists of a large platform, level with the side of the pool, which can be lowered into the pool. The wheelchair must be of conventional design so that people with sufficient upper-body strength can propel it themselves. The frame of the wheelchair will be made of PVC pipe and the wheels and casters I have obtained are plastic, but they have conventional steel bearings. There are 12 bearings in all, of three different sizes. Since cost is a major consideration I thought that machining them from solid would be the most cost-effective solution. Delrin or PTFE seem the way to go, but if I could get some lignum vitae at a suitable price....
I have to make a wheelchair to transfer disabled people from the changing rooms to a lift that lowers them, wheelchair and all, into a chlorinated swimming pool. And getrs them out again.
The real problem is the wheel and caster bearings. Ordinary steel bearings will simply rust, so what bearings should I use. I'm thinking of solid bearings of, say, plastic, brass, or bronze. Nylon is probably unsuitable because it absorbs water, but what about Delrin? It's only about 50mtrs from the changing rooms to the pool. What do the experts recommend?
Do stainless bearings exist?
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