Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: KNEW Piercing-Saw Frames|
I have 3 piercing saw frames - an Eclipse, a very old one with no name, and an early KC. The old one has a deep throat and is used only when necessary. The Eclipse was my first and only one for a number of years, but has been relegated to the job of sawing off lengths of rod or tube in the chenier cutter because the KC is so much easier to use for intricate work. It's noticeably lighter, with a better balance, and the blade tensioning method makes it far easier to cope with the problem of removing and replacing the blade when sawing out lots of separate internal sections. See photo.
The conventional way of blade tensioning is to slightly bend the frame by bracing one end against the bench and pushing the other while clamping the blade. The problem arises when having to also support the workpiece at the same time in order to stop it rotating and breaking the blade; think of a 6/0 (0.18mm thick) blade in a 0.6mm hole. The screw tensioning of the KC is sooo much easier.
|Thread: solid edge community edition woes|
F360 can do rectangular box, sphere, cylinder, torus, coil, and pipe. No tetrahedron.
|Thread: Could you write for MEW?|
Your address is missing the 'i' from 'mytimemedia' - it's resolving to 'mytmemedia'.
I've never heard of that word.
The obscurity is terrific!
|Thread: Broken keyless chuck|
I've not managed to fix it yet. I've not even managed to dismantle any part of it. I can't extract the taper from the chuck body, and the rear collar appears to be just a cap, which also refuses to come off.
By holding the tang of the taper in a vice I'm able to app[y a powerful pipe gripper to the shroud, and have managed, little by little, to unscrew it enough to see the start of the thread. Each time I try, there is considerable internal grinding, and I'm able to unscrew it a little more, but not yet enough.
The keyless drill chuck I use on my lathe suddenly decided it had had enough. I had just removed a drill and wanted to insert another, but although the sleeve turned, the jaws didn't move. I can screw the sleeve in and out about 6mm, but the jaws don't move. There's a slight grinding noise apparent when rotating the sleeve, but the jaws remain stationary. There is no maker's name visible anywhere. I've used it without problems for a number of years.
I can't see any way to open it up to determine, and hopefully rectify, the problem. Any ideas?
|Thread: Knurling tool|
Did you look at the link I posted at 9:47 on the
Edited By JasonB on 11/08/2021 18:10:13
|Thread: Making Tapered Castellations in Aluminium|
How about a jeweller's piercing saw?
|Thread: A robot of many colours|
Fascinating, thanks Michael.
|Thread: Knurling tool|
These were done with my clamp-type tool. Examples in aluminium, brass, MS, SS. and silver steel.
Edited By Gary Wooding on 07/08/2021 14:44:29
|Thread: Problems in bending sheet aluminium to a 90 deg angle|
I reckon that the purpose of the angle-iron is to securely clamp the workpiece, but you are using it as a bend stop. I suggest to reverse the angle-iron and machine a bevel on the edge close to the bending point. Then make a separate stop to limit the bend amount.
|Thread: Knurling tool|
THIS is a link to a PDF of one I designed and made many years ago. I also designed and 3D printed a storage box for it and some additional knurls.
|Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A|
I would think that you've overfilled the quill if there's a leak around the dome nut. The quill is the oil reservoir, or have I miss-understood it or all these years? .
I fitted a 3-axis DRO to my 2B and then added a DRO scale for the quill, which is surprisingly useful. As per SOD, I use an edge finder and work from an edge or a centre point (easy to find with a DRO). All my drawings are dimensioned accordingly - I never have use scribe lines or a centre-punch.
For the Mk3 VH there is a small grub screw, just behind the quill lock handle, that pokes into a slot that limits the quill vertical movement. The nut on the front of the VH does nothing on my VH.
The gib locking screws are 1/4 BSF
The half-nut may be worn so that small side pressure pops it open. I notice that you still have the rapid return spider, so you probably want to use the half-nut properly. I removed mine and keep the half-nut permanently closed.
A slight mod I made to my Centec was to the Y-axis gib-locking screw. It's a long Imperial threaded socket head screw which I found tedious to use. The Allen key kept falling out and I didn't have the wherewith all to make a custom version, so I made an extension from a piece of aluminium that's a press-fit into the socket head.
It works for me and encourages me to lock the Y-axis more often.
On my VH the nut screws onto a pin which is inserted from inside the VH, so don't push it in unless you want to dismantle it. It's not connected to anything inside and doesn't act as a stop for the quill. I used it as a convenient method of attaching an external stop block when I made an adjustable quill stop.
|Thread: 'Puter upgrade recommendations|
I've been using F360 for about 3 years now and I'm reasonably satisfied with the performance on my elderly Win10 Home system using a Core i5-4460 processor, NVIDIA GeForce GT 705, 12GB RAM, and an SSD. But when I watch videos by people like Brad Tallis etc, their systems seem rather smoother than mine, especially when demonstrating things like moving sketch items etc. I'm considering an upgrade to my system, but have limited funds. Any recommendations please?
|Thread: Wall Chart|
In that case - problem solved. I've learnt something.
Thanks for letting me know.
PS. I don't know why it should take a long time to download, it's only 85KB.
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