Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Changing a Senior M1 from Vertical to Horizontal.|
You can make it somewhat easier by putting a suitably sized box, or some such, on the mill table, which can then be used as jack to raise and lower the box until the VH can be transferred between it and the mill. Works fine for my Centec.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
My son spent the weekend with us and I spent the weekend teaching him how to use my mill. We made a replacement sustain block for his Ibanez Edge Pro guitar. The pot-metal original had stripped a couple of threads and I thought it would be a nice experience to make a replacement in brass. We had a good time together deciding setups and machining steps.
Edited By Gary Wooding on 28/05/2019 12:00:10
|Thread: Result - the 2019 Stevenson Trophy|
Well deserved Mike.
|Thread: The Chocolate Fireguard as designed by Mercedes Benz|
A good friend has had a Nissan Leaf for about a year. He basically likes it. He has a home charging unit.
|Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this|
Many years ago, in another life, I was a computer software developer. Programs always contain bugs (errors), especially when they are being developed, and some are incredibly difficult to find and fix. It's even more difficult to fix bugs in programs written by someone else.
Sometimes, after spending fruitless days in trying to fix a bug, it was very helpful to try to describe and justify the mechanism of the program to another person - even somebody who had no programming skills at all. The other person would ask questions, often totally irrelevant, and then, after a relatively short while, the eureka moment occurred and the bug was found.
|Thread: Centec raising block|
Good point Paul.
I can't help; I've never seen a grinding spindle.
The only purpose of a raising block is to provide more headroom, or space, between the table and the VH spindle.
|Thread: Knurling speed|
When I saw that episode it seemed to me that he had managed to achieve a cross-knurl, but I can't be certain
|Thread: Centec raising block|
You don't need a raising block if you don't have a Vertical Head.
These pictures show how the long block is used.
All the raising blocks I've made had only two cutouts.
I've made about 20 Centec raising blocks, only two of which were "short" ones, meaning they had to be removed in order to use the m/c for horizontal milling. The remaining 18 were "long" ones which were slid rearwards for vertical milling and slid forwards (with the VH still attached) to act as the overarm.
All were made from 6082T6 aluminium alloy, and have performed really well. I've had no complaints at all, but was surprised to find that, because Centecs were made in two separate factories, there are slight differences in the sizes of the dovetails.
Cutting the dovetails is easy, but time consuming and tedious, but making the retaining fingers and cutting the pockets was a challenge.
|Thread: Knurling speed|
There is a lot of miss-information about knurling. Many references state that it’s rather like cutting gear teeth and that the circumference of the item to be knurled must be an integral number of knurls, otherwise they won’t line up and you get cross knurling. This is total nonsense; it’s nothing like cutting gear teeth; each dimple is formed by deforming or moulding the metal, not by cutting it. Yes, you do get some powdery swarf, but nowhere near enough to fill the dimples.
Once the pattern has been established, as the workpiece revolves, each “hill” of the knurling wheel slips into the next “valley” of the workpiece, provided that the valley is deep enough to exert sufficient force to change the speed of the knurling wheel. If the next valley isn’t deep enough, then the next hill tries to make its own valley and you get a cross knurl. The secret is to make the first set of valleys as deep as you can by exerting as much initial force as possible. You can then deepen the pattern until you get a really nice, deep, knurl.
|Thread: Can anyone solve this problem?|
I tried, and failed to do it in Fusion, which is the reason I wanted a formula. Fusion doesn't use mates - it uses something called joints instead, which I couldn't make work.
Thanks Jason, I can verify that formula does work.
How did you do it in CAD? I could only do it by trial and error.
Jason is right, I'm looking for a formula that calculates X for various values of C and V.
Hmm, I've somehow managed add this posting twice. Could a moderator remove one of them please?
The diagrams show a V-groove in a solid block. The angle of the groove is V.
There is a right circular cone, included angle C, resting in the groove. The point of the cone is at the bottom of the groove, and the cone just lies there touching both sides of the groove. The axis of the cone now lies at some angle X relative to the bottom of the groove.
The problem is simple: what is angle X?
|Thread: For discussing the merits of alternative 3D CAD programs.|
My first CAD program was called EasyCAD. It was a DOS based program that was distributed on a floppy disk and was strictly 2D .After using it for a few years I encountered a magazine (can't remember the name) that was giving away a copy of a 3D program called TurboCAD. I tried it, but the 3D facility was very Mickey Mouse and I found it not as intuitive as EasyCAD.
There came a day when I designed something for myself (in EasyCAD) that I subsequently decided to submit for publication. Dimensioning was a pain, because EasyCAD didn't have associative dimensions, so when I discovered that TurboCAD did, I switched over and never looked back.
I eventually got a better version of TurboCAD that, although heavily based on a 2D engine, could do pretty good 3D design work, but when somebody demonstrated SolidWorks to me I realised just how primitive TC's 3D was. But there was no way I could afford SolidWorks. I even tried Alibre when it first came out, but was dissuaded by the price.
Then I heard about Fusion, which seemed too good to be true. I downloaded and tried it but, because of the very poor documentation, didn't make much headway. The Remap panel for which I do voluntary work then obtained a 3D printer and I had the first case that required it. I used TC to created an STL for a special mug lid, but it was very slightly too small to fit the mug. Changing the size involved basically redrawing it from scratch, so I decided to use Fusion, with it's parametric facilities. It worked really well, so I gradually switched my work from TC to F360. I still use TC for basic 2D drawings, but use F360 for everything else.
I found the F360 tutorials sort-of useful, but it wasn't until I had to design a complicated model containing lots of separate parts that I got to think in the F360 way. F360 is now my CAD system of choice. I've even started to use the built-in FEA system that is a very pricey and complicated facility in other systems. When I've got some CNC machinery I'll find another use for F360.
Using F360 for a large project certainly requires some self discipline. You should certainly adhere to Rule#1 whenever possible, and be pedantic about naming sketches and features. Failure to do this can lead you into deep water when you sometimes create errors on changing certain parameters. I recommend F360 whole heartedly.
|Thread: Anyone got a hydrogen generator?|
I've never bothered to change it in my Aqua-Flame.
I have an Aqua-Flame unit, which is very similar to a Microflame.
John is correct in stating that the flame is virtually invisible. Fortuitously, the ratio of oxygen and hydrogen produced is just right for burning, and doesn't have to be changed, but, although the flame is very hot - approaching that of oxy-acetylene - it is relatively low in energy. To counteract this, it has something called a booster tank.
Output from the generator is fed through the booster and then to the torch. A liquid is placed in the booster to achieve two things, a) to counter the effects of a blowback, and b) to change the flame temperature. If the booster contains water, then pure oxy-hydrogen is burnt, but if it contains a suitable chemical, the flame temperature and calorific value, is changed. I use methylethylketone (which, I believe, is used in dry-cleaning) to reduce the temperate to about 2000C and increase its calorific value.
Flame size is determined by the size of the torch tip, which is rather like a hypodermic needle, and not by a regulator valve. The flame produced ranges from about 3-4mm wide and 80mm long for the biggest tip I have, to about 0.5mm wide and 2mm long for the smallest one. I am able to hard-solder the tiniest chains with the small tip.
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