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Member postings for Gary Wooding

Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Where to begin?
06/02/2019 10:13:45

I also recommend learning Fusion 360. Not just because it's totally free for students, hobbyists, etc, but because it's a fully fledged industrial strength product that includes CAM and simulation facilities. The biggest problem with F360 is that there is no user manual and the on-line documentation is rather poor. Having said that, there is a wealth of excellent tutorials on the web.

The first tutorials I looked at were from the early days of a series called Fusion Fridays by NYC CNC ***LINK***. The later ones started concentrating on CNC, so I then stopped. I also recommend the LIVELARS series ***LINK*** as many others will suggest.

I then found an excellent source from Autodesk Community Philippines entitled Fusion 360 Monthly Challenge. Each challenge takes the form of a relatively simple bite-sized model that requires the use of one or more interesting and useful techniques. The video series are the solutions, which are presented in a very full and easy to understand manner, with each action described and justified. Although it appears that you should register and take the monthly challenge, that is not necessary. Just watch whichever ones are of interest. ***LINK***

One point I must stress is that all CAD programs are large, complicated pieces of software that cannot be mastered in a week or two. There is no such thing as a CAD system in which you can become proficient in weeks; you must expect to spend several (many?) months to do that. If you don't accept this from the start you are likely to get despondent and give up. Persevere and you will reap great benefits.

Finally, I found that the very best way of learning a CAD package is to use it to construct your own project, and use the on-line material to help you when you get stuck. If you decide to use Fusion, then you should register (it's free) on the Autodesk forums, where you are sure to find an expect to solve your problem..

 

Edited By Gary Wooding on 06/02/2019 10:20:53

Thread: Further thoughts on Fusion 360
02/02/2019 11:45:17

The first tutorials I looked at were from the early days of a series called Fusion Fridays by NYC CNC ***LINK***. The later ones started concentrating on CNC. I also recommend the LIVELARS series, as already suggested.

I then found an excellent source from Autodesk Community Philippines entitled Fusion 360 Monthly Challenge. Each challenge takes the form of a relatively simple bite-sized model that requires the use of one or more interesting and useful techniques. The video series are the solutions, which are presented in a very full and easy to understand manner, with each action described and justified. Although it appears that you should register and take the monthly challenge, that is not necessary. Just watch whichever ones are of interest. ***LINK***

Thread: 3D Printing using Flexible Filament
01/02/2019 08:01:37

I've successfully used NinjaFlex in our Ultimaker.

Thread: Centec question
28/01/2019 08:18:34

Interesting. I too have a Centec 2B with a MK3 VH, but it uses INT3 sockets, so no need to push things out. A light tap is all that's needed. The draw-bar just lifts out.

I've made about 20 raising blocks but it takes a lot of work and there's no way I'm doing it again. The photos show some long blocks and a short one. The VH can be left on the long block 'cos it can be slid forwards to act like the over-arm for horizontal milling.

 

Long raising blocksShort raising block

Edited By Gary Wooding on 28/01/2019 08:22:13

Thread: Gold Plating
16/01/2019 08:01:50

I don't know if its appropriate in your case, but have you considered gilding with gold-leaf?

Thread: Editing .STL Files
10/01/2019 08:06:21

STL files can be edited in Fusion 360 which, as you know, is free for hobbyists etc. F360 is my program of choice for producing models for 3D printing.

I've been using TurboCAD for years (since V2 in fact) but have basically ditched it in favour of F360.

Thread: Algebraic paradox
05/01/2019 10:45:10

The real answer is that if A=B+C then A-B-C=0, so,

after factorisation you have Ax0 = Bx0, which is clearly correct for all values of A and B

Thread: "Excel" filing machine
03/01/2019 22:27:16

The video says it cuts on the down stroke.

Thread: Slipping drivebelt
30/12/2018 07:53:19

Thanks NDIY, but £30 a pop is somewhat extravagant.

29/12/2018 12:08:54

I've been bequeathed a Naerok bandsaw, which appears to be identical to the Clarke cbs355. The black rubber? drive-belt has a 1/4" circular cross-section and a length of 23" approx. It looks undamaged but slips under very light load.

What's the best cure please?

Thread: Drill sharpener
28/12/2018 08:38:45

I've ground split point on 4mm drills and it works fine, but the ratio of split point size (SP) to drill diam size (D) varies with D.

If Dn = drill diam of n mm, then SP/D4 > SP/D8

I surmise that SP/D3 -> 1

Edited By Gary Wooding on 28/12/2018 08:42:18

27/12/2018 07:59:15
Posted by Doubletop on 27/12/2018 02:34:46:

So when doing split point on the Sealey do you reset the drill bit in the jig after doing the basic grind? The Chinglish instructions that came with my clone don't advise to do it but some YouTube videos say you do.

I always reset the drill bit for the split point grinding, and get good results.

26/12/2018 08:24:13

I've got one and am very pleased with it. I've used it with 3mm up to 8mm drills with success every time.

Thread: Setting lathe top slide angle accurately.
25/12/2018 12:33:03
Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 25/12/2018 12:01:56:

The presenter ( Joe Pieczynski) , contrary to his normal style, did waffle a little at the start, but hang in there - the method is neat.

**LINK**

I know this reply is slightly off-topic, but thought I'd mention it anyway.

Joe's videos are usually interesting, and this was no exception, but those adverts!!!

The advertisers must be oblivious to the fact that incredibly mistimed interruptions do not endear viewers with good feelings about the content of the interrupt. Personally, it turns me off, and I wouldn't contemplate buying whatever they're pushing.

Thread: Bought it, never used it.
23/12/2018 10:50:03

Many years ago I went to the ME Exhibition at Picket's Lock, North London and treated myself to a 4x6 horizontal bandsaw, which was duly delivered in a crate to my address in the Midlands.

The crate was a bit bigger than I thought and was placed into a corner of my cellar workshop, next to the CH boiler, until I was able to clear a space for the machine. The years passed and every now and again I thought about opening it, but there was still not enough room.

Eventually, the 35 year old CH boiler gave up the ghost and the replacement condensing version had to be installed in the garage, which left a space for the bandsaw. A couple of years ago I got round to opening the crate and found the receipt, dated 1997 - only 19 years ago. The saw was still as-new and does sterling service.

Thread: Tiffany & Co Advert with lathe
23/12/2018 10:16:56

Why would Tiffany think that that Ad would encourage anybody to buy their jewellery?

Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'
22/12/2018 10:23:19

They should also be fined a considerable amount (possibly the value of their houses) as a small token towards apologising to the thousands of people who suffered financial loss and massive inconvenience.

Thread: Centec DRO
13/12/2018 08:02:55

I use a program called "Faststone Capture". Strange name for a really useful program. Been using it for years now. Here's a **LINK**

11/12/2018 11:59:19

Do these help?

dro z scale.jpgdro z scale 2.jpg

Thread: Soldering
11/12/2018 11:43:12

First off, plumber's solder and silver solder are very different things and require totally different temperatures and fluxes to flow. Plumber's solder melts at around 230-250C and silver solder around 650-750C. Both require a flux to prevent oxides forming when heat is applied, but the fluyxes are very different. Silver solder creates far stronger joints than plumber's solder., but although either can be used to join steel items, silver solder is the recommended way to go.

The flux for silver solder is usually sold as a powder that is mixed with a little water to form a thin paste with the consistency of thickish cream. A drop of washing-up liquid will help it wetting the work. It is also possible to get the flux as a liquid.

The basic process is to flux the surfaces that you want to solder and then start heating the joint area with a blowlamp. The joint area must be clean - solder will not flow over dirt or oxide. The flux does a certain amount of cleaning, but don't rely on it entirely.

Initially, the flux will bubble and become slightly foamy, but will clear with continued heating. Typically, the solder wire/rod is dipped into some flux and then touched onto the joint area. If the joint is hot enough the solder will melt and flow into it, otherwise remove the solder and continue heating. The solder will flow towards the heat, so it is important to heat the joint and remember that small items heat up quicker than large items. Play the flame mostly on the large item so that the joint area for both reaches the correct temperature at the same time. If the solder melts into balls that don't flow into the joint then the the joint isn't hot enough - or you have taken too long and burnt the flux. Two or three minutes is too long. If this occurs, cool the job down, remove the burnt flux, clean the joint and start again.

I hope this helps.

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