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Member postings for Gary Wooding

Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Bandsaw blades
22/08/2019 07:43:19
Posted by Cornish Jack on 21/08/2019 17:18:01:

Just broken the blade on my Naerok bandsaw - bought secondhand 40 years ago, so possibly a bit overdue!

It's a 70" length ??tpi and has been used on wood, ali and plastic. The only specified length replacement I can find is a 6 tpi wood use only. As a confirmed 'tool magpie', I have two stick welders and a recent Lidl purchase - Mig welder??? I have never welded anything, ever!, so I suspect that any attempt is doomed to failure BUT, is it worth trying? , and with which one? Also, can anyone suggest a UK source for Naerok compatible replacements

TIA

rgds

Bill

Hi Bill,

I also have a very old Naerok bandsaw, which I appears to be identical to **THIS* Clarke cbs355 bandsaw.

Thread: Digital inclinometers
18/08/2019 08:15:53

Definitely +1 for a Wixey.

But it really loves batteries - I always remove the battery when it's not being used.

Edited By Gary Wooding on 18/08/2019 08:17:32

Thread: Borrowing
17/08/2019 21:54:28

It rains upon the Just and on the Unjust, both together

But it rains more upon the Just

Because the Unjust has the Just's umbrella.

Thread: Centec 2A riser block
15/08/2019 07:26:29

NDIY:

I made several batches of RBs. The 1st batch had the Centec logo machined into the side and hi-lighted with black paint, as shown in the first 3 photos. The subsequent batches had the brass labels shown in the last photo, but I fitted them only on the 1st of them. For the remainder, I supplied the badge and hammer-nails with instructions on how to fit them, but left the actual fitting to the buyer. You possibly have one of those. I fitted stainless dome nuts and thick machined washers to all my blocks, so if yours has them then it could be one of mine.

The 457mm length was as I ordered, but I had to clean them up and possibly lost a mm.

14/08/2019 22:01:53

I got the alloy bar from Richard Austin Alloys in Coventry.

No problems have been reported about the VH's weight on the raising bar when slid in the forward position.

I don't think it matters at all if the female dovetail was a little on the large side. There has to be clearance otherwise you can't slide. The fingers push the male dovetail sideways so there will be a gap on the finger side, but none on the other.

14/08/2019 14:31:11

The drawings I created for making the blocks were intended for my own use only, but I've had so many requests for them that I've put them in a PDF. They are not really of publishable quality but they are what I used, so they do the job. If you decide to redistribute them then please acknowledge their origin.

The PDF can be found **HERE**

Here are some photos of a few

Long block retracted

Long block extended

Long raising blocks

Short raising block

13/08/2019 22:11:09

Sorry Bill, the Domestic Authority has forbidden me to make any more. frown

I still have the drawings though.

13/08/2019 16:54:57

I've made about 20+ blocks, mostly long ones, but 2 or 3 short ones. All were made of 6082T6 aluminium.

If you're considering making one then I can let you have some of the working drawings I did. If you intend to do any horizontal milling then I strongly recommend making a long one because the VH is very heavy, and once fitted on a long block, it doesn't need to be removed for the change over.

Thread: Chosing a drill grinding attachment or machine
10/08/2019 11:30:45

Take a look at **THIS** It works fine for me, and at about £50 is difficult to fault.

Thread: Tolerance for needle bearings?
05/08/2019 07:09:49

There are eight rollers - 4 on each side. I've made the seat semi-transparent to make them easier to see.

lift5.jpg

What are cam follower bearings and what sizes are available.

Incidentally, I intended to use two needle bearings to replace each of the four Delrin bearings that actually take the load - the Delrin ones are 20mm wide and the needle ones are 10mm.

03/08/2019 15:19:07

Ian, I'm not convinced that two screwed rods would make the seat any more stable than the pairs of rollers that surround the uprights, as shown in the picture. Am I wrong?

I've removed the parts that obscured the view.

lift4.jpg

03/08/2019 12:56:22

I originally used M12 Allthread, but it vibrated so much that I concluded it was too thin - hence M18.

I tried precisely that chairlift Neill, but apart from being rather unstable, it had two insurmountable problems:

1. In its collapsed position it was too high - the guy couldn't get on it.

2. It couldn't lift high enough.The seat of the wheelchair is 23" above floor level.

The part number of the bearings I've purchased is HK0910 (13x9x10).

I'm pretty much convinced that friction is the enemy here (comments are welcome). Would an Acme thread be any better than a standard metric? What size rollers would be more suitable, bearing in mind that bigger rollers increase the seat distance from the guide rails?

03/08/2019 10:50:20

Hi Michael, I'm not interested in being right, I just want to make a device that works, so I'm open to all suggestions .

In order to reduce the overhang as much as possible I designed the roller assemblies to be symmetrical; all 13mm basic diameters with cheeks or flanges as guides. The "jockey" rollers don't actually do anything except help guide the seat. The axles were originally 8mm diameter. By "proper" bearings I assume you mean ball bearings. I thought of that but was advised that ball races with an OD of 13mm wouldn't withstand the expected forces - that's why I thought of needle rollers.

Unfortunately, increasing the diameter of the rollers increases the overhang of the seat relative to the upright guidance rails.

03/08/2019 08:11:11

Here is the reason for the query. It's a Remap job to help a 75Kg paraplegic get himself up off the floor onto his wheelchair or bed etc. He has sufficient upper body strength to get himself onto something a couple of inches high, but no higher. The concept is a lift with a seat that is raised and lowered by means of a screwed rod that is rotated by a motor from an 18v cordless drill. The seat, which is only about 1" thick, is raised from the floor up to about 23".

The screwed rod is M18 Allthread, and the nut is brass. Although the motor should be able to lift the person up 23" in about 1 minute, it can't. We think there is too much friction. The original rollers were made of Delrin, but we think that they deform under load to create too much friction. We replaced them with brass, to no effect, so we thought to use needle roller bearings. Here are some pictures from the Fusion design.

lift1.jpglift2.jpglift3.jpg

02/08/2019 08:28:21

Thanks for the information guys. That all makes sense. The outer race will not be supported - it will just roll along a flat tube where it will have to withstand a radial thrust of about 100Kg. I considered case hardening the axles, but in light of Duncan's statement am having second thoughts.

01/08/2019 16:31:34

I have some small drawn cup needle roller bearings - 13mm OD and 9mm ID.

When turning the axles I decided to turn them initially to 9.05mm and then creep up to the final 9mm, but the bearing is a decidedly slack fit at 9.05mm. Is this as expected? Should I turn them to 9mm, or redo them to make a good fit?

Thread: Tyres for bandsaw
24/07/2019 15:57:18

I've ordered the tape and will report back with the results.

Thread: Why do I keep getting logged-off?
24/07/2019 15:55:50

I'm using only one device and this started to happen only a week or so ago.I'll treat it as an annoyance.then.

24/07/2019 12:04:03

In the past few days I've been logged off this site about 5 times. Why?

Usually, my logon lasts for weeks, but this morning I not only had to logon again, but a couple of hours later I wanted to post something. After composing the post I was told I had to login again. I logged in and found my post had been deleted and had to re-compose it. Grrh.

Thread: Tyres for bandsaw
24/07/2019 11:55:39

Thanks for the suggestions. Scott+Sargeant are far too pricey so I'm going to try Nathan's suggestion of self amalgamating tape.

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