Here is a list of all the postings Gary Wooding has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Turbo CAD Query.|
Pleased to be of assistance.
Its because you changed the workplane and the plane and view don't match.The easiest way to reset things is to right-click anywhere in the drawing area, then choose the view you want, then click 'Plane by active view'.
This is what I do in Tcad ProProf, Tcad Deluxe should be the same. I don't use Tcad as much now that I've switched to Fusion.
Edited By Gary Wooding on 23/02/2020 08:11:25
|Thread: Where's the spindle lock?|
Since my acquisition came with no proper means of changing discs I made a pair of spanners.
Thanks guys. I'll have to make suitable spanner.
I've obtained a 2nd hand Bosch angle grinder. The model id is on a stick-on label which is partially missing. What is visible reads 'nWS 6-115', but I think the 'n' is a 'P'.
The problem is, how do I apply the spindle lock? According to the only manual I could find, there is supposed to be a spindle-lock button, but I can't find it at all.
The photos show the grinder where the button should be visible, but where is it?
|Thread: Encryption software|
You need a password manager. There are lots available, some are totally free and some require a subscription. The one I use is called Keepass
Its totally free and there are compatible versions for Windows, Android, iPhone, Linux, etc.
The master repository is password protected - if you loose it's password you are royally stuffed. My safe contains in excess of 100 passwords.
|Thread: How TO Copy And Paste.|
Ctl-A selects the whole page to the clipboard, surely you mean Ctl-C to copy just what you high-light.
|Thread: How to hand grind 55 degree cutter for 32TPI?|
Take a look at an article I wrote for MEW called "Really Simple Threading Tools". It was in issue 159, page 44. I can't remember year.
|Thread: Beaten and robbed.|
I gave up reading it too - for the same reason.
|Thread: Strange (to me) chuck jaw design.|
The 3-jaw on my Chester 10x36 lathe is like that. It's so well made and accurate that it certainly wasn't designed to save money. But it is a bit of a palaver to reverse the inserts.
|Thread: I wish mine was like that!|
That riser block is one that I made.
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
Soldering is the process of joining metal items with another metal (called solder) that has a melting point lower than the items to be joined. Solder is divided into two major groups; soft, which melts below 450C, and hard, which melts above. Originally, the basic soft solder was an alloy of mainly lead and tin, and the basic hard solder was an alloy of mainly copper and zinc - ie brass. If you used lead solder you called the process soldering. If you used brass you called the process brazing.
As new alloys were developed, the divisions became somewhat blurred, and two major groups became more descriptive - soft soldering using alloys that melted below about 450C, and hard soldering with alloys that melted above. Possibly (somebody must know), when it was discovered that an alloy containing an appreciable amount of silver made a very strong solder with a melting point below that of brass, it became known as silver-solder. The actual process of using brass or silver-solder is the same for both. The proper term is called hard-soldering. Brazing is really soldering with brass.
In the manufacture of jewellery, items are often joined by soldering. We use a hard soldering technique but only use silver-solder for silver items. Gold items are soldered with an alloy containing gold, and platinum and palladium have their own solders. Soft solder is never used for "proper" jewellery. We don't use the term silver-soldering; just soldering. Different grades of solders have different melting points that are determined by the components of the various alloys.
|Thread: Electric welder at Lidl|
I bought one a year ago and am very pleased with it.
|Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model|
I downloaded the STL from Thingiverse but it wouldn't print on my Ultimaker. It turned out that some of the components were not on the base plane. I retrieved the SKP file, moved things around a bit, saved as STL and it's now printing OK.
|Thread: Benbox 1310|
Thanks for your responses guys. I've ordered one and will report back when I've got it working.
Emgee. With my friend's mill I generate Mach3 gcode as a text file which he loads into his Win10 computer and then uses the Mach3 program to control his mill via a usb cable.
Fusion can generate Grbl, but what do I then do with it? You mention Arduino. Is it built-in to the Benbox? Where is the Grbl text file located when the Benbox is working? As you can see, I'm really floundering here.
MichaelG. The Benbox appears to be very well built and I'm fairly confident that it would do the job. I watched the video you mentioned and am not put off by the lack of assembly instructions. My big stumbling block is the actual process of transferring the gcode generated by F360 into the Benbox.
I do a lot of work with precious metals and, from time to time, have to drill lots of accurately placed tiny holes, typically 0.6-0.8mm diam. in small pieces. With my ancient eyes, and my trusty OptiVisor, I'm finding this more and more difficult.
A friend has a CNC mill which he controls with Mach3, and I've been using Fusion360 to generate tool paths for him. It occurred to me that a miniature CNC mill could solve my problem, so I looked around and it seems that the Benbox 1310 could possibly meet my needs.
According to the scant description, it uses GRBL. Does anybody have any experience with this machine? What is GRBL and how is it fed into the Benbox? Can/could I use Mach3 for it?
|Thread: Machining a curve|
I'd approximate it with a few tangents, 4 or 5 should do it, then blend them with a file.
|Thread: Case Hardening|
My dad was a master weighing machine maker and repairer. Weighing machines have steel knife-edge bearings that rotate on either hardened steel or agate V-blocks. He mostly used agates.
He would use cast steel blanks and file them to the required sized knife-edge before hardening them. This was an apparently primitive process where he would hold the bearing with spring pliers, knife-edge down and horizontal, in the flame of a Bunsen burner, until it was red hot. He then dipped it in Kasenit, shovelled are little more onto the edge, and returned it to the flame to get it red hot again. This was repeated 2 or 3 times when he then plunged it into cold water and stirred it around until cold. When tested with a file it was always glass hard, and lasted many years in service.
|Thread: Why mostly manual cars in UK|
In October 2011 I bought a second hand BMW 320D for which I kept a spreadsheet of the fuel consumption until I sold it in September 2015 after driving 26414 miles. It had a 5-speed manual gearbox and the overall fuel consumption was 45.79 mpg.
I replaced it with an identical model, also second hand, which has an 8-speed auto box, in which I've so far driven 26578 miles with an overall 49.47 mpg.
Neither my lifestyle nor my driving habits have changed (as far as I can tell), so does that show that auto boxes are less efficient than manual boxes?
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