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Member postings for RJKflyer

Here is a list of all the postings RJKflyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: rotary tables
31/12/2010 11:48:20
One thought I'd encourage you to consider is whether you will use the RT with a lathe chuck mounted - this adds considerable height and can be the deal breaker...
Thread: Which slideway oil is best?
31/12/2010 09:54:12
Rocol slideway gets my vote - contains a rust inhibitor too, which is good if your equipment is in e.g. an unheated garage/shed. 
Thread: Using a chucking reamer
30/12/2010 21:17:18
Hopefully I've posted this in the right place - do advise if not!
Thought folks might be interested in a video describing using a chucking reamer to make a precise hole in a small flywheel to fit to a motor shaft.
Pretty new to this, so feedback welcome!
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
28/12/2010 18:56:28
OK, here you go - my first ever attempt at creating and posting a video I know i said YouTube, but ended up on MobileMe...
It's 12 mins - too long i appreciate, but will work on the brevity next time...! 
Feedback appreciated! 

Edited By RJKflyer on 28/12/2010 20:49:13

27/12/2010 18:58:28
OK folks, I will do my best to turn out my first ever YouTube video of my turning!
Thread: Chipped corners on milling cutters
27/08/2010 12:10:50
Absolutely, it's the one I have spec'd for the moment I decide to go DRO.
Thread: Fitting digital scales to Wabeco 1200E mill
27/08/2010 11:19:25
If anyone is interested in how I've done the above, shout up? Ultimately will do proper quality DRO but while in my learning phase this has been an interesting project making a number of fixtures, and one where i wanted to utilise only the existing factory tappings in the machine. Fitted a vertical type scale to the Y axis as a horizontal one seemed not very accessible there - I wanted to see all three axes from one viewpoint, and a normal one at that.
Thread: Chipped corners on milling cutters
27/08/2010 11:11:47
Did indeed drill through the sensor layer, but at the extremities this has had no effect on the scale, as confirned by the manufacturer. Still fancy fitting a decent DRO but that's another thread for another time! For now the Chinese scales will do... Not bad for 125 quid, hmmm, but plus all my time to mill up the mountings.
24/08/2010 08:01:51
Yes, these are very helpful comments chaps, thanks. 
I do think actually, on reflection, I've done the damage with UNDERcutting/buffing (accidentally) just as Andrew suggests.Very good point, and a learning for me.
I can see the value of carbide, but to the right application: for example I needed to drill holes in the hardened stainless 'rules' of digital scales which I've added to the mill - even a Co drill wouldn't touch it, but the carbide slotmill just 'drilled' through with ease...
Thread: Facemill and MT2
24/08/2010 07:58:08
Hi Paul,
Yes, good question: i should have mentioned that i DID change the type. They were TPUN but I chose to use TPMR instead. The only significant letter there is the N to R change, and that's the addition of a chipbreaker. So, it has a small 'lip' on the cutting face as opposed to being flat.
I'm no expert at all - first time I have ever used a facemill - but  the difference in finish quality was clear. 
I bought the actual facemill from RGD, ref 629, and the replacement inserts from MSCJ&L. Latter were TPMR160312 HC335 Hertel, catalogue HCX-41654B. 
Thread: Chipped corners on milling cutters
23/08/2010 21:06:13
Hmmm, they're all boxed and looked after, but I see your point, no pun intended.
Agree re price - I'm buying Hertel coated ones as i need the larger sizes although one of the ones with a (very small) chip is in fact a Hertel TiAlN coated.
However, now you mention it,  it's also a solid carbide. Funnily enough not had any problem with long HSS ones which ought to be more vulnerable to chatter etc.
So, maybe i should steer clear of carbide as you say unless really needed...
23/08/2010 19:37:20
I'm newish to milling, and have been as careful as I can to follow all the recommended speeds (both rpm and feed) and cutting depths.
I've noticed that 2-3 of my 15-20 endmills have a very slight chip off of one of the cutting edges. Probably wouldn't have spotted it until i looked through the magnifier.
Obviously, I'm wondering why, and expecting the obvious answers re speed/feed, but I've been careful - see above. Any other thoughts re technique? Might it be that on occasion i've not been careful enough bringing the cutter into contact with the workpiece?
Since the cutters appears to still work fine and offer a good finish, I'm minded not to do anything about them.
I should add that these are not expensive endmills - they're carbide, 50 quid for 4,5,6,8,10mm set.
Thanks all! 
Thread: Facemill and MT2
23/08/2010 19:25:07
I've been using a 2.5" 4-insert facemill on my Wabeco 1200E mill which has a 10mm drawbar MT2. I thought, initially, that this would be far too much of an ask for a smallish benchtop machine.
I changed the inserts from the cheap ones it came with (the whole thing was about GBP30) to some top quality ones from MSCJ&L, and it's been brilliant.
Used it to mill some 2" round steel square, and the finish is very good. On ali it will turn out almost a mirror finish with the new inserts - really surprising quality.
Thread: Portable bandsaws - any good?
22/07/2010 11:58:28
I think I'm going to stay manual on this one: TerryD aside inspiring me not to waste the money and simply put in the effort and care, also reminds me of the space and time consumed with borderline-necessary 'gadgets'. 
I've got a diamond tile saw bench - use it infrequently, but by contrast it's a gadget which has no peer when you actually need it.
So, my 50mm bar has been cut accurately by hand...
19/07/2010 15:40:15
Hi All,
Just in the process of making some bits and pieces in steel and aluminium.
I've been cutting 1" square steel (and ali) bar by hand using what i have to say is an amazingly good 12" hacksaw. The problem is that aside being a bit knackering in this weather, it is hard to keep the cuts nice and straight. Which means oversize, and thus wasted time and material milling it square.
Now faced with cutting some 2" bar in both materials, I'm thinking that i ought to look at powered options.
Has anyone any experience with this sort of portable bandsaw?

(In case the link fails, it's a Woodstar PB06 Portable)
I don't have space to buy a proper power hacksaw, and i'm not keen on using any circular variety of cut-off.
Thanks guys! 
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
30/06/2010 18:45:35
Well, I have now done what i'm afraid many here seem to consider the unachievable, or perhaps plain stupid.
I've more than successfully turned material accurately in my mill.
I made a toolholder from a piece of (scrap)  3" long 2" dia EN1A bar which i:
1. milled square,
2  milled out a 12mm square slot about one quarter way down and along one side,
3.  fitted 4 M5 socket head cap screws (to hold the tool),
4.  relieved the edge above the tool by 10 thou to allow for the torsion opening the slot slightly when the tool bit is clamped (and thus pushing it out of square), so making sure the tool holder was clamped only by the absolutely parallel material below the tool. 
Clamped 8mm carbide tool into the tool holder, obviously on its 'side', and then tool holder in mill vice.
Used laser finder to set tool cutting point to the centre. Locked y axis.
Held the workpiece in a appropriately-sized collet.  
Turned away...  Perfectly satisfactory on both z-axis (along the workpiece) and x-axis (across the dia) cuts.
So, am i missing something?  Yes yes i am sure that parting off might be more troublesome, and knurling will be impossible (maybe...), but i have acheived what i set out to do - use a very high quality mill to turn the occasional smallish item.
Thread: Countersinking - guidance please...?
07/06/2010 09:08:31
Oh, and Ian SC - it's a 'deburring' tool i believe...
07/06/2010 09:07:59
Thanks guys. Looks like a decent SINGLE flute is the preferred route?
I've tried others from this set i have, and three of them work 'fine' - or at least as fine as i will get from them i suspect. No terrible chatter and reasonable finish etc.
With the duff one, no amount of slow speed and lube will make me want to use it - it's just too vicious. 
Thought you'd be interested in this one that led to the thread: photo attached. If you look at the 'land' i have photographed, you'll see it's buffed hard well back from the cutting edge. I've only used this one once.
Worth me sending back do you think?

06/06/2010 19:14:16
And my 300 was based on ca. 2/3 the speed you'd drill at 14mm, or thereabouts.
06/06/2010 19:06:21
Please READ my post - the 2500 was just to face a FRACTION (i.e. few thou) off the rubbish initial cut. It's mirror smooth.
I ran the original cuts at 300 rpm but had terrible results. 
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