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Member postings for RJKflyer

Here is a list of all the postings RJKflyer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Knurling in the vertical mill
20/07/2015 20:05:50
Posted by John Stevenson on 20/07/2015 20:03:53:

Can't see a problem with that other than you need a pair of decent knurling wheels instead of the egg shaped ones fitted.

Yes John, I agree, but wanted to be confident it was at least doable, as the TiN wheels I have in mind will cost 4 times the tool... (but worth it as always for the right tools).

20/07/2015 19:44:11

Purists, please turn away now.

However, for the more adventurous/tolerant of you, it is possible to do some simple knurling using the vertical mill. I simply don't have space or resources to justify a lathe as well as a mill...


Clickable link added.



Edited By RJKflyer on 20/07/2015 19:44:55

Edited By John Stevenson on 20/07/2015 19:58:47

Edited By JasonB on 20/07/2015 20:01:54

Thread: Magnetic chucks on smallish mills
23/07/2014 07:46:02
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 22/07/2014 23:10:39:
Posted by Ian Welford on 22/07/2014 22:37:03:

Never tried it on the lathe with a circular chuck- any any experience?


We had no problem with light cuts on on a particular item, but I'm still unsure about their general applicabilty. I do note that the chucks are rated in terms of Newtons per square centimetre ... presumably therefore, workpiece design [contact patch] is a significant factor.


Yes I spotted the N/cm2 bit for one MC - it was 27, which is about 40lbf/sqin. This seems pretty low when you start to calculate the cutting forces and add on the safety factor and coeff of friction for an oily bed.

22/07/2014 18:19:31

Yes, interesting re lathe use as this is possibly the worst type of 'disengaging' action - a complete twisting of the workpiece???

Also, looking at the page MichaelG links to, I see flat mag chucks annotated "Standard shape of magnetic chuck for most grinding, cutting, milling and lapping purposes."

22/07/2014 10:46:24

I've seen a few threads asking about magnetic chucks, but they've not (so far as I could search) been very illuminating (to mix metaphors...!)

I have a Wabeco mill and am curious as to whether I could use a quality magnetic chuck on occasions when it would be very convenient (and possibly more accurate) to be able to access '5 sides' etc. without removing the workpiece.

There clearly ARE many quite industrial MCs on the market for pretty substantial work in a mill, but has anyone used an e.g. 6" x 4" Vertex or similar to do milling work?

(And, yes, I know that I could probably spend some time setting up the workpiece with all manner of other bits and pieces I have, but that's not my question!)

I appreciate that it would need extra care - flatness, cleanliness, adequate pole coverage etc.

Many thanks.

Thread: Rotary table and chuck problem
22/07/2014 10:34:04

All I have is an 12mm thick aluminium backplate that bolts to my chuck with 4 cap screws, and the ali backplate has a raised centre spigot (only about 5mm) which fits snugly into the hole in my rotary table.

The backplate overhangs the chuck by about 10mm and has four holes in it to allow bolts to drop through to the T-slots in the RT.

Isn't this easiest, and possibly best? No risk of anything unscrewing, self-centring and no intrusion into chuck or table.

Thread: Thread forming taps
27/02/2012 17:33:49

Thanks Colin - yes this is what I figured - potentially ideal for ali where one can tend to get a rougher thread from 'cutting' vs. forming.

Thread: Mill tram
27/02/2012 16:49:43

I appreciate the frustration - I spotted that mine was very slightly off after facemilling (2.5" what was about a 3" square piece of 1/4" plate. It had the very smallest 'dish' in it which was only visible on blueing it onto a surface plate, which I realised meant the mill head wasn't 100.00% square to the table. It was a thou and this means about 0.046 degrees error in my case.

Needless to say, spent a lot of time fiddling with it - probably striving for unnecessary accuracy - and as the OP and others note, after all maner of careful setting (mine has a dowel pin for location) it still 'slipped' on being tightened up.

What i ended up doing was nipping it then carefully use a dead blow rubber mallet to get it spot on as i progressively tightedn it all up. Else no matter how careful I was, it 'slipped' ever so slightly if I just did it up in one go from the point it was supposed to be square.

Personally, 0.01mm over 230 sounds more than good enough - that's 0.0025 degrees.

One 'idea' I have seen is a small block bolted tightly to each of fixed and movable parts of head (as far from pivot as possible obviously) and an 'adjusting' screw to force them slightly apart to true up small errors that appear as you tighten. A bit Heath Robinson but esentially a mechanised method of what I do...

Thread: Thread forming taps
27/02/2012 16:26:17

I have an opportunity to acquire some of the above quite economically.

At present I use hand taps, albeit in the mill with an excellent Walton pilot handle.

Given i do quite a lot in aluminium, wondered if it was worth trying some thread forming taps - any thoughts/guidance? Is this practical to still do by hand - I'm thinking M3-M6 only?

Thread: Milling machine stops
27/02/2012 16:21:09

I remember this same challenge when I started out.

My initial answer was to do two things:

1. To work out the backlash in each scale so I could mill 'back and forth' in a slot (As you mention) without contantly making it slightly larger!

2. To add a couple of differently coloured small circular stickers to the fixed part of the wheel scale and ends of mill table so I could see at a glance which way turning the wheel would move the table (prevents the 'oh bugger' moment when you mill the 'wrong' way).

I have to say that now with digital scales, problem (1) is solved and problem (2) has mitigated with experience. However, I have to say (2) does very occasionally still happen - perhaps I should put the stickers back on!

Thread: A simple grinding rest
13/11/2011 19:41:03
Well, I'm humbled to have enticed you to comment Harold. As someone who has taken to machining in the last two years, I can only thank you for the inspiration your articles and books have brought me.
13/11/2011 13:01:28
Yes, I understand the suspicion re suction cups, but I've not had a problem just by keeping it clean. I'm sure it will surprise me one day, but for now, it works for me.
That's probably when I'll modify to the magnetic base!
12/11/2011 16:44:27
Hi All,
Like many others, I have contemplated the Harold Hall rest, but found that it is simply too high for my 6 inch grinder, mounted directly on a small shelf.
Also, a pretty complicated device for those of us not looking to do such sophisticated activity.
So, after much head-scratching, decided to make something small, simple and notwithstanding pretty much adjustable every which way.
The real breakthrough was the suction cup - which removed the major source of hassle about how to mount it on the shelf. Obviously only works with a flat surface, but for those of you without, my first thought (before I spotted the strong suction cup in MSCJ&L) was to use a magnetic stand, and simply rebate a sheet of steel into the shelf.
See the photos in my album Simple Grinding Rest.
Happy to take any questions!

Edited By RJKflyer on 12/11/2011 16:46:44

Edited By RJKflyer on 12/11/2011 16:47:11

Thread: Drilling in the mill
24/10/2011 21:25:04
I too dispensed with my (very cheap) pillar drill when i bought my mill, and have had nothing other than right sized holes in right places, so to speak, ever since...!
There have been times when drilling a block of wood in the mill seems a bit at odds with its purpose, but once again, it all lines up afterwards!
Thread: Slitting saw runout
23/10/2011 19:43:59
All my slitting saws have horrid runout - 'ching ching ching'.
I've bought (reasonably) cheap one and really good ones. They're all marginally sloppy on the (good quality) arbor.
I've read comprehensively on this across the web, and it appears that this is the norm! Seen the various threads here too.
Having said all this, they seem to cut absolutely fine: the only compromise seems to be running slight faster (ca. 300 rpm for a 2.5" saw) than ideal to avoid it 'snatching'. Whole thing was cool to touch after a 15mm cut in mild steel, and taking 0.5mm cut per pass.
Just wondered if anyone had found a source of slitting saws that were cut true?
Thread: Fitting digital scales to the Wabeco 1200 vertical mill
25/01/2011 08:53:55
So far, so good. It will handle a 2.5" carbide insert facemill across 2" steel without the twisting you mention.
I suspect that its power (2 hp) could exceed its rigidity however.
Thread: Guidance on turning in a vertical mill
09/01/2011 09:36:29
Thanks David for your comments.
The knurling was already present on the piece of scrap i was using. I'd like to try knurling, but with a  non-CNC machine can see i'll be restricted to knurling for the width only of the rollers. Also, I'd use a pinch roller not a single side roller.
The laser finder is from - they are available from Chronos too, but I ordered from US to get a 10mm vs. a 1/2" shank. HAving said that, with 1mm 'range' collets either will clearly do.
There are two point (no pun intended...) to watch for:
1. Battery consumption - heavy. I see from their website that they now do mains powered ones! 
2. The size of the dot is surprisingly large, and you need to throttle it right back with the supplied polariser filter. My learning here is to do just that and then pop on my binocular viewer to get it spot on. So, is it 'better' than a mechanical edge finder: probably not, but with practice it's at least AS accurate, it's quicker and avoids the arithmetic.
Thread: Fitting digital scales to the Wabeco 1200 vertical mill
06/01/2011 13:55:12
Thanks for your encouragement! Funnily enough i took a look at the D6000E page on Emco after reading you post, and towards the bottom i spotted a picture of a digital measuring scale JUST like one i fitted to my mill!
However, the Newall looks absolutely first class! 
There are a couple of other videos of mine at although they're mill related. One's about turning in the mill...! 
05/01/2011 18:36:04
Hmm, thanks for the encouragement...
What I will ultimately move to is a Newall microsyn, but as someone who has been milling for only 6 months, I learned a lot from doing this albeit simple project and this will help me make a good job of a £1,200 DRO system when the time comes. There was little point splashing out on Mitutoyo scales if i intend to go Newall DRO later on...
I wouldn't waste any money trying to use some Chinese DRO on these as it's adding rubbish to 'cheap scales' as you encouragingly point out! 
We all have to start at the bottom and learn up... 
05/01/2011 17:35:52
Thought this worth posting - many of us probably fit the simple type digital measuring scales to our mills, but it struck me that a slightly different approach to mounting them could make them easier to use.
See what you think!

Edited By RJKflyer on 05/01/2011 17:36:19

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