Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Clarke CL250M Spindle too Stiff?|
I would try easing the preload a trifle so that the bearings are nipped rather than pulled up harder as your description implies. Then you can make a judgement on whether they sound noisy on running and act accordingly
|Thread: Help identify Myford super 7 cross slide enplate material|
Hello M A
I would strongly advise you make up some form of jig to hold the hole for the feedscrew in the right orientation in both axes before you go ahead with the joining method.
Having got that sorted out I would also make a simple weld preparation vee around the joint faces to help the new metal to flow into the joint
|Thread: Help to value a Schaublin lathe.|
The name Shaublin implies good quality which will be in it's favour
What might be a drawback to a successful sale is the lack of any kind of traversing mechanism, no rack or leadscrew, so it is a purely manual machine with only cross and compound feeds.
Try it on ebay at a nominal start price of, say, £50 and see what happens.
Best of luck Brian
|Thread: Myford super 7 mk1 clutch|
I have the Myford drawings which I would be happy to send you by email.
Some pesky compatability problem prevents me from posting this material on here
PM me with your email address please so that I can send it to you
|Thread: Dore Westbury milling machine|
I built a Mk II about 25 years ago from the kit of castings and bar etc and have been very satisfied with it over all those years.
I assume you are referring to the circular gearbox on top of the head for slow drive to the spindle, in which case it should be oil filled to about half depth. For mine I have used straight forward SAE 30 grade agricultural oil, nothing fancy
These machine kits came with build notes and a set of drawings. You were expected to know something about milling and general workshop/engineering practice to have enough knowledge to complete the construction without being given instructions on how to use it afterwards, if that is what you are looking for. However, the gearbox engagement is unusual. There are two locking pins, 180 degrees apart, inserted upwards to lock the pulley block to the gearbox body for normal running.
For slow drive, pull these out and insert them horizontally through the lower part of the gearbox body to engage with matching holes drilled into a cross member the gearbox is supported on. The drive to the spindle is now fed through the internal reduction gearing in the gearbox.
Other than that, general use is pretty well common sense really but I will be happy to pass on tips etc I have learned. One of these follows.
As you have already explored the gearbox, I would strongly recommend you beef up the two loctited joints of the reduction gears to their respective shafts, one of which is the final drive to the spindle, before you put the mill to use. After long service the joint(s) begin to fail and drive to the spindle starts to slip. The cure is to drill down the gear/shaft joint face, thread the hole and lock the joint with a hexagon head grub screw. How do I know.....?!
Enjoy your new toy, I hope you get long and satisfactory service from it
|Thread: Paper under vices.|
Unless the paper is certified as acid free, the kind that conservators use, I think it is almost certain to promote some kind of interface damage over time to either or both components. And the experience reported on this thread bears that out.
I only ever use oily surfaces
Edit. I see I am joining the party too late anyway!
Edited By Brian Wood on 20/02/2021 09:35:42
|Thread: Mini Lathe leadscrew key size?|
The fit of a key in the shaft is deeper than in the pulley, for example a 4 mm key will be nearer 2.5 mm deep into the shaft and there will be some 'daylight' over the key when it engages the pulley. There are data tables published of the actual values for both metric and imperial sized keys.
I don't have a mini lathe but the keys are usually square section, I don't think Far Eastern imports use Woodruff semi circular keys. They are easy enough to measure as is the keyway they fit using a pair of callipers across the gap
|Thread: WM180/DB7 mini lathe to cut 32TPI|
It has taken me a while to figure out the gearing drawing shown on the plate for your lathe, but the working elements are 30/75 which is 0.4. Multiply that by the leadscrew pitch of 2 mm and you get the threading pitch value of 0.8 mm which might be close enough for your purposes. The Far Eastern lathes do not make it as clear as they should in my view, which gears are used as idlers and even in some cases just acting as spacing collars, very confusing.
The top end gears shown on that plate are an idler of 80T linking the fixed spindle gear of 40T to another of 40T for a neutral drive up at that point. That 40T is coupled to the 30T that does the business
Neil has taken the calculations further forward to get as close as he has to 32 tpi and he has also gone to the trouble of working out the clearances needed to get the necessary daylight between all the gears
|Thread: Picking up the thread.|
I have been busy with other things today and would have posted earlier. From your last post you say everything is OK now, which is just as well really since I couldn't see why you had been unable to pick up the thread again. It is no different to cutting a metric thread when you have inadvertently opened the leadscrew clasp nuts before the job was finished.
Using the same set up a second time, 29 tooth mandrel gear and gearbox set for 23 tpi will still cut a thread of 19.04 tpi, just as it did the first time
I can do little other than endorse the advice you have already been given, with perhaps the added suggestion that you do the re-cutting by hand using a mandrel handle if you have one.
Best of luck
|Thread: Clarke CL250M Metric Screw Cutting Gears|
It is good when it all comes together as it should isn't it? Thank you for the feedback.
The tread you cut may be unconventional but that is the real value of a lathe in that you can use it to cut any thread pitch you like on any diameter, something that is just not possible with fixed dies.
|Thread: Cutting on return traverse?|
At my last place of work we had an old Dean Smith and Grace lathe, a big one but with a lot of wear in the carriage. It was a magnificent machine despite that.
It was not unusual to take a further 1/4 mm cut or more when retracting the tool and you could utilise that in roughing out a bore, you could actually see the saddle slew slightly. It was still quite possible to machine a bearing pocket to size as long as you did as Andrew has described
It is a common observation, caused by a slight slewing of the carriage on return, due to either wear in an older machine or even resetting of the carriage using the normal clearances on a new machine.
Nothing to worry about. If you are trying to bore to a fixed size for, say a bearing pocket, then take the finishing cuts on the inward travel and wind off the feed to avoid re-cutting again on the return. The alternative is to do the final sizing cuts on the return, it is a little more tricky to manage but perfectly feasible.
|Thread: A Manual of the Hand Lathe|
As always Michael, you frequently surprise me with the material you unearth.
Edited By Brian Wood on 05/02/2021 09:48:57
|Thread: Is this a worn thread or deliberate|
Drill a hole through the thread and insert a rod in it for leverage. Heat the aluminium component until it smokes and then work the stub about to unscrew it
|Thread: ML7 left to run for 72hrs accidentally - what to check?|
I think the countershsft bearings will be showing up a lack of lubrication as a result of the prolonged running, other than that the lathe itself has come through with everything operational as it should.
So, a bit of oil where it is needed and away you go again
I have a 5 inch 4 jaw self centreing chuck, Pratt made and it is a joy to use. I would class it as the best in my workshop. I found it on the Home and Workshop stand years ago at Harrogate. Second hand I know but hardly used and so badly fitted to it's backplate it must have been a real disappointment.
On a trustworthy section of ground thick walled tube it is good to a TIR of 1 mm at 12 inches from the jaws.
|Thread: removing ball oilers|
Hopper has it right, the method works without generating any debris
|Thread: Standards of Electrical Wiring|
Frightening isn't it?
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