Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Looking for foundry in Bolton area|
Leach and Thompson in Keighley
Their website says they will supply one-off castings
Mick Miller used to be the name to speak to, but that information is now rather old
|Thread: Just aquired and set up an ML4|
I had to sleeve the ML7 size to fit my ML4, (it was long before the general switch to metric sizes) but it worked admirably. It certainly beats the tooling clamp that Myford provided with the lathe.
That old lathe went on to do much of the machining for my Dore-Westbury milling machine which has served me well since build ~ 28 years ago
|Thread: Pratt/Burnerd 4 jaw Dismantling ?|
The jaw adjustment screws are held in place between two jaws of a hard plug inserted from the back of the chuck. In one design these are held in location with a side screw, fitted from the back of the chuck, locking the plug in position. Unscrew and tap the plug out with a slim pin punch acting on the visible face beside the waist in the jaw adjusting screw
A second design dispenses with that arrangement and in this design the plugs have been pressed in and these are rather more difficult to remove. They have to be driven out with a slim blade shaped tool acting on the face of the jaw, it has to be slim to work in the space left available by the waist of the adjusting screw. The width should be equal to the face width of one jaw to give it the maximum cross section to work without buckling
Support the chuck on something solid but with space behind each of the plugs to give it somewhere to go as it moves. Heat at each position helps in expanding the bore and gently tap each plug out, remembering that they are hard and therefore prone to chipping. Once the plug has moved sufficiently it is possible to grip it in a slide joint pair of plumbing wrenches and wriggle it out.
Edited By Brian Wood on 04/09/2020 14:11:24
|Thread: Replacing Broken Tumbler Gear on Myford|
We are well over here thank you, I hope the same applies to you both
I had overlooked that fact and I have just been through that excellent U tube video that Speedwerk posted. The key to it all is clearly the layshaft, with that removed you can see what you are doing.
Sorry to have raised your hopes, when you see the casting of the selector itself so well shown on Speedwerk's link there is obviously no room for that to rotate.
A rather similar method is needed to get the clapper box and calibrated slide off the ram end on certain shapers; that has to be rotated to align the machined clearance over the clamp screw. With that aligned the whole assembly comes off easily.
I hope you get the gearbox repaired and back in operation again very soon In the meantime stay well
Kind regards Brian
I share your distress, but not the experience.
Looking at Myford's drawing, I think the trick is to first remove the indexing pin assembly for gear selection and then rotate the input shaft housing complete with the selector.
I foresee a snag in that you will probably also have to pull the layshaft, (item 159 in the drawing) to provide enough room to complete the rotation and gain access to the taper pin that holds the short spindle this gear runs on.
Hopefully John Fletcher can offer some more encouraging 'magic'
Kind regards Brian
|Thread: 0.8 straight wire|
You could try M Machine in Darlington, they do mail order
The only straight material I could find in their catalogue was silver steel of 1/32 inch diameter which is only 0.006 mm below 0.8 mm. Piano wire is sold in i metre lengths but comes coiled. Not however available in SWG 21
They sell the silver steel in 13 inch lengths but it may be available elsewhere in a greater length, which might be more convenient for you.
www.m-machine-metals.co.uk Phone 01325 381300
|Thread: Motor repairs|
It is many years now since I was based in Derby but a Google search produced the following:-
Long Eaton Rewinds Ltd, Unit 3 Langham Park, Stanton-by-Dale DE7 4RJ Phone 01332 873118
I have no knowledge of the organisation whatsoever, you are on your own with that
Your fault description sounds like a start capacitor failure if your motor is fitted with one, they usually live in the round bulge on the outside of the motor. It is either that or the starter switch built into the motor which now has dirty contacts. The least likely fault is a winding failure
It will mean taking the motor apart to clean the switch, the capacitor would be a simple replacement part. If you are unhappy with that sort of work any competent sparkie will do it for you and test the windings.
Edited By Brian Wood on 27/08/2020 10:18:22
The bolted headstock suggests this is either a Myford ML3 or ML4. The nose thread details should help in the diagnosis.
Why anyone would want to use an angle grinder to remove the cast on lettering on the bed is beyond me, but your first photo shows the ORD very clearly as a witness of what was there.
|Thread: Machin Myford quick change gearbox kit from Hemingway Kits.|
That is actually rather a good idea, the gearbox is bulky with a gear cone up to 65 teeth and the output stage includes a 70 tooth gear. All these are 20 DP
Using 1 Mod mini lathe gears would make a big improvement on those sizes..
I would though use steel gears throughout, replacing printed gears in the gearbox if necessary would be a pain.
|Thread: Can anyone supply a lead for grub screws|
You asked me if you can drill a grub screw, others have pretty well answered your question for me, and you have a working solution for now as well. Very short grub screws like these present difficulties for fitting a pad securely anyway.
I wondered if a plain butt joint with a good engineering adhesive would be satisfactory. after all the joint will be in compression in use.
Try WJPerry Jaguar Spares. An unlikely name I know but worth trying
Phone 01604 810814
PS You may have to fit the brass bit yourself
|Thread: Help with lathe valuation - First post, be gentle!|
Welcome to the forum.
Always a tricky question to answer. Look at the offerings on ebay for a guide.
Those are likely to be used of course, yours is close to new condition [now] for an genuine description as such.
|Thread: Plain lathe gearing for 'bastard' metric thread|
Hello Oily Rag,
I have used pencils and even chalk in the past to 'prove' the gearing for a thread pitch before cutting metal. It is an old trick really but jolly useful.
I'm glad your result was as you had hoped although I must confess I couldn't follow the logic. Success in the end which is what mattered to you
If it is of any help, the basic change wheel gearing for any generic 8 tpi leadscrew lathe [say Myford for example] is a straight 23/44 reduction. The pitch outcome is 1.6597 mm
That might fit on a Raglan as C=23 and D=44
|Thread: Hydraulic ram machining|
I have machined hydraulic ram bar in varying sizes. It is not a problem at all, the chrome layer turns off readily with tipped tooling. It drills and can be tapped easily too.
At the agricultural engineers where I last worked we made our own hydraulic rams for some of the equipment we sold; the cylinders were made up from thick walled honed bore tube, also lovely stuff to work with.
|Thread: Bandsaw blade speed for brass.|
Thank you for completing the story with a successful result. So often the final outcome remains undisclosed.
I still support the cardboard 'cushion' as a means of quietening the cutting, some materials are inherently noisy emitting an ear splitting shriek as they are being cut.
The ideal is for at least two but as long as one tooth on the bandsaw blade remains engaged in the cut as the second is entering, you will get a smooth cutting action. The trouble starts when the section being cut is thinner than the tooth pitch spacing on the blade and each tooth has to cut it's own track. It gets noisy and rough and can damage the blade.
A dodge for those situations is to exploit the angled tilt facility if your bandsaw can support that ability so that the material being cut is presented to the blade at a ramp angle that lengthens the cutting path and once again keeps at least one blade tooth engaged before a second enters the cut. Not all machines offer this added refinement
Edit addition. The other trick frequently used is to make a sandwich and cut the two materials at the same time
Edited By Brian Wood on 20/08/2020 09:47:17
|Thread: Myford ML7 questions|
Hello Will, welcome to the forum.
You will get answers to pretty much all your questions, I will pass on the Forward/Reverse motor switching, there are many others who will advise you better than I
Do though please include No Volt Release in the wiring, it is an important safety issue preventing accidents in the event of a machine tool coming back to life unexpectedly after a power failure
I can confirm the tailstock barrel is bored for 2 Morse taper
Happy days with your new acqiisition.
|Thread: Denham junior Manual|
The two shafts along the front of the lathe each serve different needs. The threaded one is only used for screwcutting to preserve the accuracy of the 4 TPI pitch thread, the other plain shaft has a keyway cut down it's length and this drives a worm within the apron that provides either the powered cross feed or the powered traverse, but not both at once! There will be an apron control that selects those functions as required.
You will also find an effective interlock mechanism built into the apron that positively prevents the chance of selecting the power functions when screwcutting and visa versa.
It doesn't take a lot of imagination to appreciate the damage that could result with those potentially very different pitch controls being engaged at the same time
If you look at the splendid website lathes.co.uk and chose Denham from the list of lathes there is a wealth of information there to add to your knowledge and understanding of the model. Tony also sells good quality digitally remastered handbooks; I'm sure the Denham Junior will be listed and it would make a nice birthday present for you. I think that might be of more use than an evening class, even assuming you could find one with an appropriate syllabus
Our apologies to Donald by the way for highjacking his thread
Yes indeed, you have worked it out correctly---whatever fills the gap as a joining gear will do.
Bear in mind that interposing a gear here will reverse the direction of drive to the leadscrew; the website photos don't show the more traditional tumbler reverse gears on the drive down from the main spindle. You have the lathe and may know the secrets involved but if it is a problem, put two smaller wheels as idlers in the space instead.
Hello again Martin,
I have since looked at the photos and description in Tony Griffiths website lathes.co.uk and the set up is even simpler than the one I described.
Position A on the gearbox with change wheels of 40 driving 90. That will give you 9 tpi exactly. 90 goes on the one described as Guide Screw.
Sorry to have muddied the water to start with
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