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Member postings for Brian Wood

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Harrison L5 - removing feedshaft, lead screw and associated paraphernalia!
17/05/2020 13:54:18

Hello James,

"Slightly duff brass screw in the leadscrew"--what's that all about I wonder?

Anyway, glad to be of help. Use the procedure as a road map and adjust according to local conditions, I don't think you will go far wrong

Machine specific information would though be useful for you, there must be many on the Forum with one of these lathes who can give you that detail

Kind regards Brian

17/05/2020 11:06:37

Hello James,

Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride!

I imagine this model will be pretty similar to many others and perhaps the following generic description will help you.

First, disconnect the leadscrew and power shaft support from the tailstock end of the lathe bed.

Now disconnect the power shaft and leadscrew at the gearbox end of the lathe. Details will vary machine to machine but it is likely the power shaft will be coupled via a external sleeve with taper pin attachment at both ends of the sleeve. Release the one on the saddle side by tapping it out [do note which way the taper pin fits!!]

The leadscrew may enter the gearbox in a support bearing that is either bolted to or into a recess in the gearbox. Remove the bolts and set them aside. Engage the half nuts on the leadscrew and gently crank the saddle handwheel. With luck you may be able to draw both shafts free of the gearbox

Now you have the saddle, apron and both the shafts free as a combined unit. Look for the bolts holding the apron up onto the saddle. They will be cap head, often 4 but maybe 6 in total, Put a support below the apron to take the weight as you unbolt the two. Note if a short or extra long bolt is fitted in one position. Release the securing bolts and then carefully lower the apron, with it's two shafts still in place, down into the swarf tray.

The saddle should now be free to slide along the bed out of the way. Lift the apron clear of the swarf tray, it will be heavy so be prepared for that, and set aside for your attention.

A WORD OF WARNING Do not withdraw the power shaft without having taken the precaution to make a dummy in a piece of wood dowelling, complete with a keyway. If you look inside you will see one or maybe two worms that are driven by that shaft. They will be flanked by thrust bearings on both sides and it will save you a lot of grief later to use the dummy shaft to support all that by "chasing" the power shaft out as you withdraw it. For added security, fit a hose clip to each end of the dowelling to keep it in place as you work on the apron later.

The leadscrew should just withdraw but use your loaf and check there isn't some cunning interlock that drops out without the shaft being in position to keep it there.

Rebuild in a reverse of the procedure above.

The saddle will have underbed clamp strips both front and back. Removing these will allow you to lift the whole saddle off the bed. Look carefully at the orientation of these clamp strips, they may be thicker on one side. Note which that is and reinstate it the same way. The saddle will be lighter to lift if you unbolt the compound slide and lift that free

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 11:07:15

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 11:15:24

Thread: [Project 1] M300 screwcutting gearbox repair
17/05/2020 10:19:03

Well done Lee,

An ingenious solution I must say but isn't the same problem going to arise later on at the remote end to your fix where the shaft comes out through the gearbox? The follower shaft is now no longer parallel with the cam shaft or the gears it shifts

I can see you may be forced to be more radical next time and make a new eccentric support inboard of the point of exit for the follower shaft so that it can be made to move truly parallel with the cam shaft below.

Enough for now of course but maybe a point to ponder on. Enjoy using the lathe, it looks like a very capable machine.

Of course, by then, your confidence will be more than sufficient to tackle the skimming of the delrin cams instead

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 10:30:57

Thread: Churchill Cub lathe
16/05/2020 17:09:33

I am in the process of restoring one of these British made lathes; this one was made in 1947 in Huddersfield

Is there anyone else on the Forum who owns one? My interest is mainly for information exchange

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
16/05/2020 11:49:02

Hello Luke,

You are quite right, 6 tenths of a thou, I got a decimal place wrong so made that rather more at 6 thou!

Leave well alone---sorry to be alarmist.

A test bar would be a good accessory but it isn't really necessary at this stage.

A first setting for your tailstock is easy enough but it does depend on having a 3 jaw chuck you trust. It works as follows. Wind out the barrel, mark the outside with a black marker pen and offer it up to the chuck with the jaws just touching, Pull over the spindle by hand for a rotation or two and see where the marking has rubbed off. Offset the tailstock accordingly a little and repeat the sequence, chasing the "grip" of the jaws down as you do until the marking is pretty evenly wiped off all round. Lock the lailstock offset at that point.

Now you can refine that setting, if it needs it, with fine adjustments to the tailstock offset on a turning test between centres

The cross slide handwheel of 42 divisions is a close approximation to 0.002" per division. The 80 divisions that Myford offered gave 1.042 thou movement per division.

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 16/05/2020 11:55:01

Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed
16/05/2020 11:32:35

Ian and S.O.D,

I can only describe what happened in our case and I imagine the simplest way of setting up overhead supply as it was in our case would be a tapping off two phases in the village transformer. along with a neutral and run that on poles across the fields.

The sparking from the neutral where the broken cable was thrashing about in the field was quite impressive, it also attracted the attention of the stupid bullocks as you might imagine. It took a lot of arm waving to keep them off it.

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
16/05/2020 10:11:21


I remember the groove now you mention it


I quote " The bull wheel is normally free to rotate on the spindle as it will have varying speeds to the spindle any slack is magnified" That is where I got the information


Your gearing set up as described will give you a truly fine feed off 0.004 inches per revolution of the workpiece. Did you measure your runout using the spindle MT bore or the plain external register? At least the vertical register is as good as you can expect.


It maybe needs a leap of faith for Luke at this stage to take metal off his plain diameter. All is not lost though if he feels that has been a mistake, a sleeve will restore the status quo.

Kind regards to all Brian

Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed
16/05/2020 09:42:54

Hello Ian,

It will be much the same as the supply we had by overhead cable in the Yorkshire Dales when we lived there. The cottage lower down had two phases installed to even the load at the local transformer. One of these was used to power storage heaters, the other was used for standard domestic supply.. Our supply was an extension of one of these phases..

The neutral was of course common to both our properties

There were bullocks in the field over which the supply was carried on the usual poles and with the usual behaviour exhibited by a bunch of young bullocks, they managed to fell one of the power poles. The neutral broke and was left thrashing about on the ground like a snake, shedding sparks as it did.

In the meantime, below us someone was using their oven to cook breakfast and we got the full interphase voltage of 440v through our supply, there being no neutral left coupled. I recall it did a lot of superficial damage to radios, lights and other appliances that could not handle the sudden voltage surge.

These would of course have been phases 120 degrees apart, not 180.

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 16/05/2020 09:44:44

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
15/05/2020 18:03:59


I think it unlikely the spindle is worn oval, there could be other causes that can mimic that. The way to test for it is to support the spindle in two vee blocks and rotate is slowly with a DTI bearing on the surface. There should be no fluctuation. Measuring across a diameter with a micrometer or caliper can be fooled by the effects of lobing which gives an apparently true diameter. The vee block test will find that too. I agree that 0.015 mm run out is rather more than tolerable

However, for you to test for those conditions means pulling the spindle!

Is the radial run out measured on the plain diameter of the nose or within the MT bore? Is the vertical chuck register absolutely true?

If the MT bore is running true along with the vertical register then you could skim a few thou off the horizontal register and apply David Bennett's findings that I supported very recently and locate the chuck on the vertical register alone.

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 15/05/2020 18:06:32

15/05/2020 16:54:16


I have to take issue with your statement about the bullgear being free to rotate on the spindle.

It is the pulley cluster that is normally locked to the spindle in direct drive. It is unlocked to be free to rotate when back gear is engaged. The bullwheel is normally locked by it's grub screw to the spindle at all times. It would otherwise tend to rattle and wear both the bore and possibly even the spindle diameter at it's location.


Kind regards Brian.

15/05/2020 14:03:03


There is an old trick you can use with a long handled screwdriver to use as a sounding stick in trying to isolate an area for noise diagnosis.

Your short video clip sounds like belt noise. It is regular and maybe coincides with the revolution rate. I would try tightening up the pulley block grub screw, there could be some slop in the fit between grub screw and dimple in the mandrel, I seem to recall Dad's lathe often needed that taking up..

Is it any less when you ease the tension on the belt? The lathe certainly sounds smooth enough when you ignore the noise.

Kind regards Brian

Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed
15/05/2020 09:11:05

Hello Robert,

I'm sure others on the forum know more about wiring to such a supply than I do.

But for what it is worth, since you do not have the third phase available with the supply arranged as it is, I suggest you run the lathe motor from the Transwave converter you have been offered, with that coupled to one of these two phases. In time, you may well want to run a second 3 phase machine, say a milling machine. You could then supply that from the same source. As a one man operation [I assume] you are very unlikely to be using power on both lathe and milling machine simultaneously.

The other phase can be used to supply a distributed load for lighting, heating and other power outlets within your workshop

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 15/05/2020 09:15:55

14/05/2020 13:53:11


I would wait for Ian Parkin's assessment, acting as your eyes and ears.

Reverse running sounded a bit rough to me but that might just be in the gear chosen for the demonstration.

If the motor is already 3 phase it will run more smoothly than a single phase replacement. I would be inclined to leave that as it is. .

Kind regards Brian

13/05/2020 18:02:32


It would have saved you a lot of heartache had he been up front with all this right from the start.

I had the very definite impression from the ebay sale presentation and the limited contact you had from him later it all smacked of "Dunno much abart it Guv, but it's yours for a tenner along with a dirty post card---know what I mean" [nod nod, wink wink]

I hope Ian's visit confirms all that he has just imparted; at that price, for a cared for machine, you may just have found a cracker.

Sorry to be so negative to start with, I put a lot of store on gut feelings and general impressions.

I hope you get years of good service from it--best of luck too in your venture.

Kind regards Brian

12/05/2020 18:50:21

Hello again Robert,

Sillyoldduffer (Dave) has made some very good points for you to consider as part of your deliberations.

I would add that shipping any kind of machine to the Shetlands is going to add significantly to the cost of setting up, by maybe as much as £1000 depending on the distance involved and then comes the job of finding someone to take it on.

It might even be cheaper for you to relocate!!

Kind regards Brian

12/05/2020 18:03:08


I know neither the Harrison nor this machine, but I would be strongly guided by Andrew's opinion. Even now the seller can't be bothered to tell you more than "it is a good machine" which frankly tells you b*gger all about it. Sure, he will big it up because he wants to flog it.

There is a saying about fools and money which I'm sure you know. Let him find another buyer while you look at what is on offer on the sales page on this forum. Another good place to check out used machines, no guarantees offered, but usually a fair description is on the sales page on

Tony Griffiths, whose site and archive this is, will not knowingly accept rubbish and I rate his offerings way above much that appears on ebay. You have already had a foretaste with this machine and it's current owner.

I hope you find something much better

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 12/05/2020 18:04:33

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
12/05/2020 09:48:58

Hello Jon,

It would be useful if you can find the article. If your memory of such material is anything like mine has become, you may find it is nothing like what you think it was !

By the way, the spindle bore on my ML7R is a nominal 5/8", in common with the standard ML7.

Even the ML4 had a bore greater than 3/8" surely? With a spindle diameter of 1 inch, that leaves plenty of wall thickness and enough to contain the 2MT socket that the later version such as my Dad bought were equipped with.

Kind regards Brian

11/05/2020 17:35:32

Hello Jon,

I don't like to correct you but, Martin Cleeve's lathe was I think an ML7, not ML4. Like you it would be interesting to know where his lathe fetched up; hopefully with someone who would have appreciated it in it's modified form

And yes, David's work has shown that a reasonable fit on the thread, to stop the chuck actually flopping about, backed up by solid contact with the vertical register does the business. So press on as you are doing!

Kind regards Brian

11/05/2020 14:49:01

For those who were following this thread closely.

This is really to record my changed attitude to the question of nose registers about which David Bennett made a bold and somewhat controversial statement, in this thread, that the horizontal register was in fact not necessary.

Being traditional in my view of these features I challenged him but he has produced some convincing evidence to support that what he stated holds water.

In particular I suggested he turned a faceplate round and mounted it in reverse on the nose. This he has done, butting up to a machined collar behind it that abuts only the vertical register . Lo and behold , it runs perfectly true mounted in this way, despite the lack of any horizontal register. This also was the case found by Tony Griffiths of fame with at least two chucks and by David with two chucks of ML7 nose location screwed directly onto his ML4 nose. All these ran true even under heavy working and supported with his knowledge of a Wolf-Kahn lathe that uses only the vertical register for chuck location.

So, it would seem that a holy grail has been punctured. The truly critical location is the vertical register, the horizontal register that we have all striven to get exactly sized over the years is acting as little more than a guide.

Of course, with the increasing use of camlock location on hobby sized equipment, it has been used industrially for many years, the whole discussion might be regarded as academic. I apologise to Luke Mitchell for hijacking what was his thread, but it might be interesting to see what others make of this interesting new evidence

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 11/05/2020 14:51:42

Thread: questions about setting up my Myford ML4
11/05/2020 09:29:17

Hello Andrew,

On the subject of some guidance in helping you fit the new bullwheel to your ML4 [i'm glad to hear it arrived by the way] I wrote a pretty detailed description for Luke Mitchell very recently on this forum. Go back one page, you will find it under Myford ML4 restoration--headstock bearings and spindle removal to save me the effort of repeating it all again here.

Tool size Dad's lathe came with a full set of tooling he ordered to go with it. These were 3/8 inch square shank, the moderm equivalent will of course be 10 mm square. With some bits and pieces of sheet metal packing, he did all his work that way.

The traverse gear and spindle. It is now a long time ago since I examined that sort of detail, but from memory I seem to recall that the gear and shaft were made as one item, the outer handle was fitted and locked onto the external thread. In you case with the gear threaded on, you could try drilling down the joint face and locking them together with a small grub screw.

And YES, throw away the grease cups as Robert Atkinson tells you to do, oil is the proper spindle bearing lubricant, never grease.

I hope that helps

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 11/05/2020 09:35:04

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