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Member postings for Brian Wood

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Reground carbide cutters
22/12/2019 20:32:00

Where do you find these if you don't mind me asking?

Regards Brian

Thread: Dore Westbury head on M1 milling machine
21/12/2019 17:37:26

I have just read Alan Johnson's most interesting article in MEW 289 about mating these two pieces of equipment together.

What a fine article---thank you Alan for a very informative and well presented project

Brian

Thread: A tales of two lathes
20/12/2019 09:20:31

If you can afford it, why not have them both? I have found that two lathes of different capacities in my workshop complement each other in ways I had not expected when I acquired the second.

If that is not a viable option, go for the heavier build of the Kerry

Brian

Thread: Bandsaw woes.
19/12/2019 09:37:49

I suspect the alignment of the blades guides. the brutal twist back onto the powered wheel is very demanding.

I had similar trouble with my saw and it was compounded with blade breakage. I put it right in the following way

Take the blade right out and dismantle the guide wheel heads. Mine were badly made with cast surfaces that fitted where they touched, re-machine all those so that they can be relied upon to guide the blade correctly. Now stretch a wire or fishing line round the blade wheels with it snugly into the rim groove and rebuild the blade guides.

The aim is to only just support the back of the blade, the wire should therefore just graze those wheels. Take the wire out and refit the blade. Grip it at the low end with a tool makers clamp where it runs out of the guide to twist the blade and set it upright with respect to the vice and held like that refit the side wheels to support it. Next set the guide blocks is to hold the twist before screwing it down to the support beams. Be sure the side wheels allow the blade to run through without gripping it tightly.

Tension the blade to a mid musical tone by plucking the free section at the back of the bow, a dull thud is far too slack it does need to ping.

Tooth count is important. I use 10 tpi for everything other than tube which I cut at 14 tpi. One last point, avoid cutting welds with hard spots, that can take the edge off teeth on one side and lead to curved cuts.

My saw has behaved impeccably after that treatment for more that 8 years now. It has had other problems but not blade throw off or breakage.

Regards Brian

Thread: Wobbly Kitchenaid Mixer
16/12/2019 16:50:22

Put a flat on the pin for the grub screw to bite into, then thread lock as JasonB suggests

Alternatives are to fit end screws and a thick washer behind each to contain the pin and prevent it 'walking' out

Brian

Thread: Metric screw cutting clutch for Myford ML7B as Graham Meek clutch
14/12/2019 16:26:18

David,

That is a smart looking job, congratulations

Just to correct the origins. It was the late JS I picked up the 33 and 34 tooth wheel method from but it goes back somewhat further than him as well. In research for the book, I found references to the use of wheels in those sizes relating to Atlas lathes from the USA. I do agree with you, they are probably the most useful ones in the whole set 

Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 14/12/2019 16:34:57

14/12/2019 09:27:25

David,

I have a 'plank' of tufnol in the right [ 1 inch] thickness, plenty enough to cut a piece off as source material for your idler gears.

Regards

Brian

Thread: ML1 Worn Saddle adjustment
14/12/2019 08:48:08

Hello Chris,

Your email hasn't reached me---did you miss out the underscore? That is the usual mistake people make.

Try again wood_y(at)btinternet(dot)com no spaces, all lower case and the tricky underscore

Regards

Brian

13/12/2019 12:24:04

Hello Chris,

Some time ago I put together a pdf for gearings to all manner of pitches that is applicable to all lathes with 8 tpi leadscrews. Those are based around the standard set of change wheels that were provided with Myford lathes, you will just need to add a wheel of 63 teeth to make the metric conversions. Some duplications will be also needed but the accuracy is very good; error margins are listed for each value

Send me your email address if you would like a copy.

wood_y(at)btinternet(dot)com all lower case and be sure to include an underscore between the d and y

Regards Brian

Thread: Metric screw cutting clutch for Myford ML7B as Graham Meek clutch
13/12/2019 08:34:11

Hello Gray,

That is a neat solution which at the same time separates the operational indents from the neutral and allows more space in cramped surroundings.

Regards Brian

12/12/2019 17:18:11

ega,

I used what I had at the time which was obviously not the best move. Since then I have a bought slab of 1 inch thick Tufnol sheet to use for gears of this kind, but the replacement for my failed 25 T was made from two offcuts bolted together and cut as one gear. That has behaved faultlessly.

I shall be showing this new detail to David when he visits in the New Year, but to mention it here might be helpful to others. Graham warns in his build notes that the indexing on the triple grooved thimble with a small spring loaded ball in a vertical drilling runs the very real risk of the ball over-riding the outer groove and dropping into the workings of the clutch to jam it in that position.

I had exactly this trouble on early testing and took the ball out to replace it with a short hardened slug of the same diameter. That at least prevents jamming from a rogue ball in the works but began to give other troubles arising from wear in the hole supporting the slug, leading to a tendency for the slug to tilt in the soft aluminium hole and begin jamming again. I suppose a steel sleeve for the hole and a longer slug at the start of the job might delay that, but to make that alteration at the time was a lot of trouble.

The next iteration has moved to the rear of the unit where Graham shows a trip rod and here I have built on a quadrant shaped piece to grip the actuating shaft with three drilled dimples for a spring loaded ball to engage. The short stiff spring is contained in a horizontal drilling back into the body of the clutch

Thus far this modification seems to work well and the longer radius of the quadrant has also allowed a better separation of the dimples for a decent positive action of left, off and right to clutch control with much more spacing that was available on the thimble in the clutch

Maybe the problems of miniaturisation arising from a considerably larger design are beginning to show I think.

Regards Brian

12/12/2019 11:24:38

Hello David,

I confirm that the dimensions you quote for Gray's device are correct. The alterations for KWIL's modification came from odds and ends out of my ever useful scrap and junk box; I'm sure you will have such things you can find

I do recommend using Tufnol for the 25 and 30 T idlers, these need to be cut at 20 degree PA to match the gearing that Myford chose either side of the normal reversing cluster. I can lend you my cutters if needed

My first ones were made in black nylon, the 25 tooth gear gradually began to deform and smear running engaged over part of it's width with a brass gear so I had to remake that. The 30 tooth idler is still fitted but being wider there is better width engagement and that has only minor deformation which doesn't seem to be troublesome, yet!

The modified bit is attached to the rear face and without braving the wind and rain to trek across to the workshop, I feel sure it is surface mounted. I seem to remember 1/8 inch plate was what I used.

All good wishes to you as well

Brian

12/12/2019 08:41:16

Good morning Gray,

I have just found your notes above. As you say, things can't be taken for granted and I imagine this particular application of your clutch may not show itself very often.

However, in your usual thorough way you have worked out a solution covering both difficulties which I am sure was received gratefully by the individual concerned.

I will if I may copy your notes to more permanent storage in case I am asked for help, unlikely I know, but scouting taught me a number of things including preparation.

Season's Greeting to you and yours

Best wishes Brian

Thread: ML1 Worn Saddle adjustment
11/12/2019 17:10:15

Chris,

Nice to see the lathe in action, I hope you get lots of use and enjoyment out of it.

Regards

Brian

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
11/12/2019 17:06:04

Hello Pete,

I was able to view that just fine, it really is most ingenious and thank you for taking such considerable trouble in recreating it.

I imagine the 'tuning' of it to get the relieving action in the right part of the cycle is another carefully planned part in the manufacture of the eccentric shaft it all revolves on, just as it is in Eureka.

In full sized use for relieving actual cutters, I would expect gear wear to be pretty heavy. Do we know if it was ever used in anger?The alternative that Eureka was based on was used successfully but dropped out of favour when suitable relieving lathes became available where powered slides could be used to carve off metal.

Regards Brian

Thread: Metric screw cutting clutch for Myford ML7B as Graham Meek clutch
11/12/2019 16:01:03

Ken,

David has already been in touch and plans to see what I have done in the New Year based on the photos you were kind enough to give me all those years ago.. It works very well you will be pleased to hear.

I am still to make an auto trip to complete it, but as I am sure you will know only too well, other things intervene and priorities tend to get displaced

Seasons Greeting to you

Best wishes Brian

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
11/12/2019 10:35:06

Thank you Michael, it never fails to impress me how far your knowledge base goes, I will follow that up.

Regards Brian

Thread: Metric screw cutting clutch for Myford ML7B as Graham Meek clutch
11/12/2019 09:24:48

Hello David,

Jason's suggestion is a good one but as far as I know Ken Willson hasn't produced any drawings. I was fortunate enough to be given a bunch of photographs by him of his modification at one of the last Harrogate exhibitions.

In essence what Ken dd and I have copied is to demount Graham's clutch unit as a bolted on feature and utilize the central spigot that Myford provide for the reversing cluster lever as a pivot for Graham's unit, bringing out a new indexing fitting so that the original indexing holes for Myford's design become locators again for this device..

Now it is possible to swing Graham's unit into or out of engagement at will

I don't know where you live but I would be only too happy for you to see for yourself how I have interpreted Ken's modification, take it to pieces and refit it, take photos and measurements as you wish. I live in North Yorkshire just outside Thirsk and as my drawing skills are limited to rough ideas sketched out on fag packets, I think this might be the best way for you to absorb the detail of it

my email address is wood_y(at)btinternet(dot)com all in lower case with an underscore between the d and y

Regards Brian.

Edited By JasonB on 11/12/2019 09:30:08

Thread: Balzer relieving attachment working model
11/12/2019 08:37:54

Count me in too please, I couldn't figure out how Balzer got over the mismatch in tooth count. Very clever and nicely re-engineered

Brian

Thread: Hello from Alfreton!
10/12/2019 17:19:21

Hello John,

Maybe I am stating the obvious but you said billet so I hope you are using tailstock support and not relying on the grip in the chuck.

Some aluminium can be 'sticky' try using paraffin or WD40 as a cutting lubricant, it will assist in getting a turned finish. HSS is better suited to aluminium but is must be sharp

Don't cut with too deep a feed, that will just induce chatter, and try varying the turning speed to find something the lathe likes so that you produce turnings.

Regards Brian [I have a few more miles on the clock than you, but what does that count ! ]

I don't suppose I have covered all bases, but from similar problems made on the forum before these things are the ones that have most beneficial effect.

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