Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dismantling Vertex HV6 Rotary Table|
My table is badged Myford.
I bought it about 10 years ago at the Harrogate Exhibition to take advantage of a decent show discount. Generally it is nice quality, but even with that provenance there were some minor niggles purely down to building to a price.
It is a while since I dismantled mine, Coalburner is correct, there is a small hexagon grub screw in the side that is easily overlooked. After that is free the whole eccentric assemply can be pulled out.
|Thread: Stuck clutch - Mk2 Super 7|
Hello again Jack,
My apologies, the sizes are very close and hard to sort on short lengths. The cap screws are 2BA x3/8", NOT 3/16" BSF in my earlier post.
Dennis I think has explained why it is so hard to unscrew, but rather than hold the drive plate with Stillsons, which will chew it up, a better alternative might be to make a pin spanner with two buttons to engage in the holes for the heads of the BA capscrews.
It could be held in contact by the end nut [1/4" BSF] using at least two spring washers to allow for thread space in unscrewing the drive plate. Clamp the clutch and motor belt to prevent turning and smack the end of your pin spanner anti clockwise with a hammer to shock the thread into release. Thereafter you can take things more gently and work the drive place back into position with the locked nuts approach that Michael Poole suggests.
I hope that and Dennis's information from the manual bring you some joy
Happy New Year
This is what a correctly set clutch should look like. Your cap screws are missing which might explain it's position and stuck condition. The screws are 3/16" BSF [32 tpi] which 3/8" thread under the head, you can see how short they are from the one I have stuck on with blue tack
|Thread: S7 lubrication, oil gun & stiff clutch|
If I may add a few pennyworth; if the clutch is the cone version in the large pulley combination driven by the motor, a drop or two of oill into the cone will make a remarkable difference. Mine used to squeal and snatch until I did that, it is now silent and takes up the drive as you would expect.
I have no experience of the expanding version built into the spindle stepped pulley, but anecdotally I believe they are tricky to set up and keep in condition.
I am reminded of the similar difficulties in setting cable brakes in early motor cars
|Thread: Shaper cutting tools|
I found most of my shaper tools in the boxes you trip over under the 2nd hand stalls at shows, in my ignorance I just assumed they were big lathe tools! To be honest, there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference in many of the shapes involved. At least they are cheap and cost little to experiment upon.
Shaper tools are quite simply lathe tools used vertically, the size is generally larger than those you might use in a Myford lathe for example. Grind them with some top rake and a radiused cutting tip, not too large a radius to avoid judder and poor finishing just as you might expect on a lathe. Left and right hand cranked tools are useful to shape down the side of a block.
I suggest not too heavy a cut to begin with until you build up some experience, better that than stall the drive trying to hack off great lumps. Good support and a strong vice are essential to getting good results.
It will pay you to clock the box table in both directions from a DTI held in the tool post on the ram. Levelling across the table is self evident with the central nut in the table; 'droop' in the line of ram operation is maybe best noted as an error to apply shimming on the job itself. Do remember to use the support leg under the table to help react against downward droop inducing forces, the common cause of that form of misalignment.
I have read that you can use the shaper itself to cut a fresh surface on the table, but it is not a job to be undertaken lightly and might turn into the old problem of levelling a table with 4 legs to finish up as one you have to kneel at!
Apart from that, they can be used as precision tools, they are a lot of fun to use but avoid the chips as they come off, they will be HOT and nasty. With the appropriate tools you can cut internal gears and keyways too.
Enjoy your new toy!
Edited By Brian Wood on 27/12/2013 16:10:13
Edited By Brian Wood on 27/12/2013 16:10:55
|Thread: Replacement Cells for Power Tools|
A further update, the 'bargain' Ryobi batteries I found on ebay are in fact a book on fixing that battery! The vendor very kindly got in touch to ask if my order was a mistake since an order for 3 books at once was unusual.
So I am getting a full refund and feeling rather foolish having told the world and all!
John and Les,
Screwfix appear to be sold out, they are only available for collection, not delivery and there are none in the branches York to Middlesbrough.
I found some Ryobi 18v Ni-Cd on ebay today at £4.99 with free delivery, look for NiCad batteries.A better buy actually with more cells available.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2013)|
Seen on a visit to Darley Mill near Harrogate, I especially like the fitting work on the steel pulley, a very practical use of a recycled item from somewhere else
|Thread: Myford ML4|
Hello again John,
Check your message box please, I don't want to send the handbook by open forum despite the rather tired copyright that must now surely apply to lathe literature this old.
|Thread: Chuck location on a Vertex Dividing head|
A good idea, I hadn't thought of it; it would reveal one sided contact for example. Many thanks
Hello Jason and John,
Thank you both for your replies.
Jason The runout error was negligible with things mounted on the lathe, even at 5 inches from the chuck, but present on every chuck when fitted to the BS-O head; all the chucks are otherwise spot on. The error was sufficient to give variable cutting depths on the teeth of the gears I was making, visibly wrong.
John I ran a die over the BS-O thread and got a whisker of metal away, it didn't correct matters though. When I have finished this batch of gears I'll transplant the 4J chuck with the holding mandrel still gripped in it back to the lathe to observe the situation in reverse.
I don't like silly mysteries of this kind and like a terrier I'll plug away until I've found out and corrected whatever is wrong, it would remain as a niggle until then.
|Thread: Myford ML4|
Flat belts. A good number of years ago I needed to replace a 4 inch wide leather belt on a PTO driven circular saw that I used as a logging bench on my grey Fergie tractor. In the end I used the compound belting that is used on round bail making machines; it was absolutely ideal for the job..
It might be a bit agriculturalin terms of thickness for your lathe but a narrow strip suitably joined might serve, I may even have the remnants in one of my hidden boxes which I'll look our for you.
I'll PM you if I can find it and also scan the handbook in for you as requested.
If I remember correctly, serial numbers for ML4 lathes were stamped onto the lathe bed at the tailstock end onto the unmachined face of one of the shears. It also appeared on the lathe mandrel gear and the two numbers should of course match. I still have a handbook I will scan for you if you can't get a copy from elsewhere.
I can't help with your pulley change, but I don't think for one moment you need to make or alter the mandrel, it is much easier to make the pulleys to suit. You will of course need access to a lathe to do the work,so you may well need help there. I endorse Michael's comment above on Poly Vee drive, a much better system altogether.
Edited By Brian Wood on 26/11/2013 09:06:26
|Thread: Chuck location on a Vertex Dividing head|
Hello Stephen and Paul,
Thank you both for your input, I am more irritated by the apparent fault than anything else. Current use of the 4J chuck gets over the immediate problem. The taper in my example is Brown and Sharp which is not compatible with my MT tooling.
When the job is done and I have the time I'll strip out the mandrel and follow the nose thread on it in the lathe, I suspect it is slighty drunken but can't yet prove it. Depending on what I find I'll either machine it off and make a new one on a shrunk on sleeve, or make a new mandrel entirely with an MT taper so that I can use that as well.
I'll report again on this in the future.
I have been cutting some gears recently. The blanks were mounted on a purpose made mandrel to which they were keyed to maintain register. My dividing head is a Vertex BS-O
I observed that those cut so far have teeth that are not all to the same depth, varying cyclically around the gear and on checking everything through I found that the mandel has about 10-15 thou run out at the gear blank end. I am using a tailstock too, but these measuiements were taken with the end free of the tailstock.
The chuck and mandrel ran perfectly true on the lathe. All the mounting threads are clean, register faces likewise. I checked the mandrel out with 3 other good quality self centreing chucks, the same some of errors were repeated, despite seeing each combination running true on the lathe before transfer to the dividing head. A good quality test bar gave the same errors.
A lathe catch plate fitted to the nose of the Vertex head gave a 1/2 thou runout on the face at the outer edge, not enough in my view to translate to the sort of errors I have measured at 5 inches from the chuck.
The BS-O register is ground and correct on diameter, there was no detectable movement on that or the ground vertical face of the register with a sensitive DTI.
It is though only a short register, not as long as that on the lathe.Just for good measure I checked the truth of the ground Brown and Sharp centre supplied with the head, there was no detectable movement on the DTI
My question is; has anyone else observed this rather bizarre behaviour and if so what did they think it was caused by? My current thinking concerns the fit of the BS-O thread in the chuck backplates before they are butted up to the register, they are a bit snug which might hold things off a trifle.
I am seeing the job through with a 4J chuck holding the gear blank mandrel, it is though a bit annoying that I can't use any of my 3J chucks instead
|Thread: Myford hand wheel dial|
For the benefit of others who might want to do the same, could you add some contact details, address, phone etc to help them find the company.
They don't appear to have a website, today's first point of reference.
|Thread: ML7 / Super 7 tailstock|
The tailstocks will fit the bed OK but it would be wise also to check that the centre height above the bed is the same.
Simple check, compare the height of the centreswhen closed up to the headstock, there might be a few thou difference visible then with a feeler gauge held between the points; if vertical they are the same, leaning towards the headstock makes the tailstock centre high.
|Thread: rotary table 3 jaw chuck runout|
I have just caught up with this post, so I may already be behind the times.
A few things I would try as well.
!. Try the chuck on something you know and trust, 0.12mm runout is after all only 5 thou, but you don't say if it gets markedly worse measured further out from the chuck jaws, indicating a 'leaning' error [jaw problem] rather than simple displacement parallel to the body of the chuck.
2 Take off the backplate and check the mating face to the chuck, a small error there will be magnified by distance.
3. The fit of the backplate to the chuck, ie it it snug in the recess? Is there a burr or tiny piece of dirt there? All these can be additive. As Ian observed, a careful tap with a soft faced hammer followed by retightening securing screws can sometimes do wonders
4 And finally, how well does the adaptor fit the table? The trouble may be in that.
I doubt you will get better than 0.05mm whatever you do
Edited By Brian Wood on 30/10/2013 10:01:43
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