Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford ML7 or Super|
I would think the full drawing for Myford spindles, and there will be a number of variants, will be protected by copyright vested with Myford.
If however you just want the detail of the nose for the spindles [ML7 all variants] so that you can fit Myford compatible chucks etc to your mill, the 3rd Edition of Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook shows it on page 3.8 with sizes and limits.
The book is widely available under ISBN 1-85486-134-4. Buy a copy and preserve his copyright as well; it contains a wealth of other useful information gleaned by the author in a lifetime in engineering
|Thread: Myford wiring|
The usual dodge is to wire the motor through the 3 phase starter by looping the live through two of the ways in the starter so that the contactor sees a balanced current loading in all its ways. Tubal Cain's Handbook shows this diagrammaticaly and there are other publications showing such wiring diagrams.
For it to work satisfactorily of course the load drawn by the motor should match the capacity of the 3 phase contactor, I imagine they won't be far apart in this case.
If though you are the least bit nervous about this get a professional to check and wire it for you.
|Thread: Shaper Slotting & Keyway Fixed Toolholder|
I have just seen your post, a neat idea. May I copy it for my Elliot please?
|Thread: Myford S7 old clutch|
Hello again Jamie,
There is the difference in length caused by 4 pulley grooves [and the longer shaft to accomodate it] compared to only 3 grooves on your older S7, as well as the differing woodruff key positions to overcome.
I really think your best information can only come from the new owners of Myford in Halifax, they adverise in this forum at the top right of this page and in the magazines.
I bought [secondhand] an old style clutch like yours thinking it would fit my lathe, how wrong I was. It sits in a drawer glaring at me every time I go there!.
I looked into this some years ago.
I'm sorry to say the short answer is there is not a direct replacement by the cone clutch since a longer hollow bored shaft is needed along with the 4 step pulley to suit the later S7 lathes. I bought the complete kit from Myford Nottingham and have been very pleased with it.
Just a small running detail that solved a problem for me when an unpleasant shriek started to occur on engaging the clutch. A drop of oil on the mating surfaces of the cone stopped it immediately and made for a much smoother take up of drive.
The cone surfaces are all metal so there is no friction material to get contaminated.
|Thread: Can anyone identify this?|
Is anything rotary or sprung built into it?The right hand end seems to be offset from the main body from the flat on the side near the shiny machined diameter. It might be an internal gauge for sizing bores within a limited range.
What are they made in, stainless steel looks possible and are the through holes threaded or plain?
|Thread: Do you know a good foundry?|
For those of us further North than the Midlands, google William Lane Middlesbrough, they offer small runs in various metals.
I have not used them, but the website looks very professional and I have heard good reports
|Thread: An announcement from the Editor of Model Engineer.|
May I add my good wishes as well.
|Thread: universal grinder, drill sharpening instructions|
I don't know your machine at all, but you might find a handbook for a Jones and Shipman Universal both well written and informative with proper illustrations. It should help you understand your chinaman
See what Tony Griffiths has for handbooks
|Thread: Parallel turning on a Myford ml4|
Yes, you are of course right and I remember now what was odd about the feedscrews. They were fitted with dials of 80 divisions, not 100 as I said earlier; so tooling moves more than you expect.
Sorry for the confusion, but it was a long time ago.
It was a remark of my father's when I was 10 years old, I never questioned it at the time, or checked it later, so I could be mistaken.
In those far off days we didn't have independent means to verify actual movement compared to iindicated.
I usually measure everything anyway without depending on what the dials say
|Thread: Outstanding Service|
I've been to see them in person with living nearby at Thirsk. As you have all said, nice helpful people and a pleasure to do business with.
|Thread: Putter heads milled from steel|
I have personal experience of this man's work and he is happy to tackle most challenges. It would be worth contacting him, he can also write the CAM software to execute the job.
The company is based in North Yorkshire at Leeming Bar, I don't know how that squares with you for distance from your base.
PS PM sent as well
Edited By Brian Wood on 08/01/2013 16:16:28
|Thread: Parallel turning on a Myford ml4|
D1992 will be the serial number. Mine was D2382, bought new by my father in 1945
From what you say, your model sounds like the non adjusting tailstock, the later Myford mod. had a tongue built in across the tailstock base [as in the ML7 which replaced it] so that it was possible to offset PARALLEL to the lathe bed when turning tapers.
Before then, with just the dovetail jib location, there was no control on the alignment at all and it was possible to set up to turn parallel and then find you were drilling at a skew from the tailstock. If you have a longish straight bar you can trust, put that in the tailstock chuck and measure displacement down its length with your DTI. If it isn't too far out I would call it a day and heave a sigh of relief!
Incidentally, the feedscrews for both X slide and top slide are 12 TPI; I know the dials are marked in 100 divs, but one full turn moves the tooling by 96thou.
I modified my headstock spindle with a close fitting collar to bring the register diameter up to 1.25 inches so that ML7 chucks and accessories would fit. As supplied, the nose was 1.125 inch register diameter with a 1.125 inch x 12 Whit thread and it became difficult to find things made to that size.
Edited By Brian Wood on 07/01/2013 10:38:23
I inherited my late father's ML4 in 1963, it was aleady about 20years old then and I ran it for a further 20 years before selling it on to buy a friend's ML7.
I suspect you have the model with the plain non-adjusting tailstock, a real pain to set up both in terms of alignment across the bed and true aim along the bed. With the single foot mounting for the whole machine, leaving the tailstock end of the bed as a cantilever, the advise above from David Littlewood about bed twist and correction doesn't apply.
A relatively quick way of setting things true to at least a reasonable approximation, and assuming you can trust your 3 jaw chuck, is to do as follows:
Slacken the tailstock foot adjusting screws and mounting bolts along with the bed clamp on the rear of the tailsock. Wind out the barrel to about 3/4 reach, clamp it with the barrel clamp and then grip the front end in the chuck. Now that at least is aligned with the headstock centre-line and with it the tailstock body.
Now you can reset the tailstock front shear dovetail and carefully tighten the bolts on the tailstock holding the dovetail piece to the tailstock, checking with your DTI that you are not moving the tailstock body as well; this may take a while.
When you are happy with that and the bolts are tight, test again as you tighten the bed clamp for the tailstock, it should not deflect more than a few thou if you have got the previous operations right.
If you have some 1MT tooling with a plain parallel section, grip that in the chuck instead of the barrel, the 1MT barrel bore is the definitive centre for the tailstock.
You might still be able to get a handbook from Tony Griffiths, visit email@example.com he has a wealth of handbooks for all sorts of machinery, it will be very useful for you.
I hope that helps
|Thread: Acceptable Quality|
I bought ER25 collets from CTC and initially thought the runout was unsatisfactory [note initially]
To check them properly I borrowed two pukka chucks [ one Myford nose fitting, the other 2MT] with collets from a friend who had every satisfaction with them; these were Vertex supply. To my great surprise the CTC collets outperformed them for both runout and repeatability of location on test bars, all of them performed with variable results in my own homemade collet chuck.
I found it hard to believe that these cheap collets were as good as they are, in spite of their claims to meet DIN standards. I am now convinced and would recommend them.
It was my chuck that was rubbish, something I didn't want to believe!!
|Thread: Bandsaw Choice|
Just to add some experience which might be useful. I bought an Axminster MB115 bandsaw [4.5'' capacity] about 12 years ago and it is without doubt one of the really useful machines in the workshop.
I've found that 10TPI blades give the best overall results, but whatever you do be careful when sawing welded material, or anything that might contain hard spots. It will take the edge off teeth on one side of the blade before you have time to switch off. Further sawing then gets slow and a curved cut results.
Mine will operate upright, but it is not a mode of use I like, the table that came with it for vertical use is pretty flimsy and I think poorly made. I ran angle iron bracing round the lower ends of the legs on the frame, the tray below the bed of the machine is too lightweight to prevent the legs splaying outwards. With suitable bending and welding you can then fit castors to the leg extremities and wheel it about.
So, a worthwhile investment, but be prepared to modify the work vice and improve the clamoing of it for angled work. Jaw lift can be a problem too as large work is bigger than the vice jaws so use extra clamping appropriately. An early mod. was to replace the bolt for the blade cover with a knurled version to speed up the access if a blade comes off or needs changing. Blade tension should be such that the blade twangs nicely when plucked. Too loose and it WILL run off.
For some reason I couldn't figure out was blade throw-off when I brushed cutting oil on the blade teeth, it didn't happen cutting dry.
|Thread: Harry Websters book sale|
I also bought a number of his old books which were delivered before Christmas, first class service and a really nice man to deal with.
As you say Siddley, a gentleman from the old school
|Thread: 3 jaw chucks|
There is another, rather tedious way of correcting bell mouthed jaws, I used it many years ago to put my father's small scroll chuck right when it came to me with the Myford ML4 lathe after he died. You need a LOT of patience!!
Use a black magic marker to coat the jaw gripping surfaces first. Then, with a true and round bar in a tailstock chuck you trust, close the 3 jaw chuck down until only one jaw is touching the 'test' bar. Idle the lathe at slow revs, move the testbar in and out to rub the marker away on the jaw that touches.
Take the jaws out and with a fine oilstone, polish that jaw over the bright area, holding it carefully to grind only that bit. Rebuild the chuck and test again with remarked jaws, repeating the process until you are satisfied that all 3 jaws grip evenly both front and back. This also means checking for runout as the polishing proceeds. Look especially for any misalignment along the lathe axis where the chuck tries to grip on the back or front of a jaw. That will show up as increasing displacement of a DTI along the length of a true test bar. Axial displacement alone is parallel to the lathe axis.
As I said, you do need lots of patience; in my case I was rather fond of the lathe and this little chuck, it is now amongst the best in my collection, so it does work.
Yes it is, much depends on what IS inaccurate. If it is the rear plate mounting to the chuck, that is a relatively easy salvage which involves turning away the old location, bonding on a ring to replace it and turning the new register to suit the chuck.
The second fault concerns the chuck jaws that may have gone 'bell-mouthed' with being forced to grip just on the tips [a form of regular abuse].
You will need a toolpost grinder or similar to correct this fault. First turn a ring with a reasonable aperture, open the chuck jaws outwards to grip it on the outer steps and then very carefully grind new gripping faces onto the INSIDE facing jaw surfaces. Move the grinder in and out with the chuck rotating slowly to cover the whole surface until the shine is even throughout on all three jaws.
Test the results on a true bar for runout and repeat if you have to. If the body guides to the jaws themselves are badly worn and sloppy it is best to scrap the chuck and fit a new one.
Take care to remove ALL grinding dust after, cloth protection on bedways is good before you start.
You may well find in the end it is only fit for roughing work, in which case keep it for such.
Good luck Brian
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