Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What mills have you had|
I made my Mk 2 Dore-Westbury which I still own, admittedly a light machine which now has variable speed drive, a big improvement. It get a lot of use.
A Tom Senior [Junior] horizontal mill, a lovely machine, which I use for gear cutting
And not listed as a category on it's own, an Elliott M 10 shaper
|Thread: What lathes have you had?|
Myford ML4 inherited when Dad died. Sold to buy----
A good Myford ML7 from a trusted friend. That was a good lathe but sold to buy----
Another good Myford ML7 R, which I still have and use. It is much modified.
Smart and Brown Sabel---a nice one and I use it
Churchill Cub, a rescue project recently taken in hand. It will be good when it is done
Edited By Brian Wood on 21/07/2019 18:35:25
|Thread: Saying hello from Cheshire.|
Welcome aboard Tommy,
I am not into clocks, machine tools and tool making are my main interests. You will though find many kindred spirits here
Edited By Brian Wood on 20/07/2019 17:10:56
|Thread: Colchester Chipmaster|
You may have to make one by filing out a square hole in a piece of drilled bar and then welding or brazing a T handle or similar to it.
If you Google square chuck keys all you see are the male versions and looking for hollow square keys only seems to go up to clock winding key sizes, nothing in the size you need..
|Thread: Steel boiler storage.|
You secure it mechanically so that it is in good electrical contact
I too will miss your input. It has given great value, knowledge and experience to the rest of us on the forum and it seems a great pity that some feel it has no place here, based purely upon the scale on which you work.
I do hope you will reconsider and return to us. As others have said, the forum will be a poorer place if not
Kind regards Brian
|Thread: Cutting a Mod 1 worm|
How very flattering, I'll do what I can to help.
I am not familiar with your BL12-24 lathe, but I suspect it will have a 40T gear off the spindle permanently included in any change wheel set up. I don't know how comprehensive the Norton gearbox is either, so a picture or two to enlighten me on those aspects will be helpful; plus of course your spreadsheet.And a picture to show how your changewheels are arranged on the banjo would be helpful.
Do you have any feel for the ratios the gearbox provides? One way of establishing that is to take a look inside and count the teeth on the input gear, then count the teeth on the cone of gears that can be selected. I can work out what that gives as ratios if you would prefer not to.
I hope it won't be necessary for you to make other change wheels, we'll see.
My email is wood_y(at)btinternet(dot)com all in lower case, no spaces and note the underscore between d and y
Hello again Howard,
I can save your brain cells some, but not all, the work.
The basic gearing calculation is really not too difficult. For this example we do need to incorporate an approximation for pi/2 in the gearing, which is neatly given by 55/35 to an error of roughly 1 in 2000
The full sum therefore becomes required Pitch P = 55/35 x R x Leadscrew pitch [ R is the combined value of change wheel ratio and in your case a gearbox ratio]
Putting in the known value for P = 3.142, we can rearrange the formula to find the value of R
R = 3.142 x 35/55 x 1/ Leadscrew pitch [1/3 in this case] which gives a value for R of 0.6664
Without knowing what change wheels you have available, nor the gearbox ratios that you can call upon, it surely can't be too taxing to find values for these components in the calculation, which multiplied together amount to 2/3
|Thread: Myford ML4 backgear disassemble|
I'm sorry to be late in reply to your question, I have only just seen it. From fading memory now, I recall that the backgear cluster that fits onto the eccentric that is used to swing it into and out of engagement is retained on it's shaft with a broad washer and countersunk screw, fitted to the 'motor' side.
Remove those and slacken the nip bolt that proves an adjustable grip to the shaft in question [to give it some resistance to turning], the shaft should then withdraw towards the tailstock end of the lathe.
I have a new and unused 65 tooth bull wheel available to fit the main spindle, teeth often get broken off those and they are no longer available as spares from Myford. If you need one, send me a personal message (PM)
Good luck with the restoration
|Thread: Cutting a Mod 1 worm|
The error was listed in the table as mm, so the figure will be 0.001 mm [1 micron]
It is of course a calculated value which depends on the accuracy of the leadscrew on the machine in question. Having said that you could test the gearing on your lathe with a 60 T gear on the leadscrew just to see if you could cut that pitch, it would perhaps prove the point whether or not your lathe is capable of the task.
|Thread: Beamish Museum|
Thank you for the new information, we haven't visited Beamish in years and clearly there is new material to look at. A visit in the Autumn I think.
|Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia|
The largest diameter cast iron I have bought from M-Machine was 140 mm diameter, a slice of 2 inch thickness to make a 63 tooth gear of 12 DP.
It was clean, no blow holes or central imperfections and being continuously cast material I would expect that to be typical of all the sizes they sell.
|Thread: Machine Movers|
I can bring this thread up to date concerning Landylift operations, having had a Churchill Cub lathe delivered by Steve Cox today, and a very professional job I might add too
He is now handling machine movement requests on a case by case basis and only on Saturdays. His present full time job is installing bar feed equipment to CNC machinery which is keeping him pretty busy..
He is retaining his truck with all the tackle he uses for the time being to keep his options open, but knowing I would be updating the Forum accordingly, he did ask me to point out this change in his business affairs.
He can still be reached by email at email@example.com his phone number is 07836 736496.
|Thread: What to do,what to do.|
Clearly opinion is divided.
I found a 4J self centreing Pratt chuck on the RDG stand at the last Harrogate show and after I put the fitting right on it's backplate [ it was at least 1 mm in error] it has proved to be truly accurate and I prefer to use it for most work now.
It was almost brand new at the time of purchase, the previous owner must have been deeply disappointed with it's performance, all down of course to a sloppy job he made of fitting
So, your choice really
|Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please!|
That looks like a nice, satisfying outcome Martin, well done. A world away from how it was when you bought it
Edited By Brian Wood on 27/06/2019 18:55:50
|Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head.|
They do unscrew, the thread is right hand. Try some heat on the head and a soak of the joint with WD 40 before you try the impact, it might just shock free then
It seems a shame to have to resort to drilling it out
|Thread: Le Blond, 'Regal 10' lathe, circa 1942 and other machines - Help Needed|
Try Steve Cox of Landylift , based in West Yorkshire. They are frequently recommended on this forum although I have no direct experience so I can only pass on the views of others who have used him
Phone 07836 736496
|Thread: Little John|
It might be worth trying Tony Griffiths at www.lathes.co.uk I believe he sells these belts. He may of course be the supplier your friend has located!!
They are rather special being as close to the top surface of a Vee belt as possible to remove the effects of drag on the lower section when running in expanding pulley halves.
|Thread: help with gear calculations|
That looks like a very professional job Pete, it should fit nicely
|Thread: Cast iron dust , is it really that bad for lathe beds.|
I use a brush to sweep it off the bed as you generate it, it gives the bed wipers a much easier time and then clean it all up at the end of the job.
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