Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Burgess BK3 MK2|
A 5A switch will be more than adequate
|Thread: moving machines|
Not such a new idea, but clever nevertheless
The Rolls-Royce heavy gang laid down a 30 foot vertical broach for transport up to one of their Scottish factories by building an ice block wall from the entire output of the Derby ice factory and pulling it onto the wall to allow the blocks to melt and lower it onto one of their low level machine skates.
After the wall had melted they jacked up the foot end, slid another skate in underneath and rolled the machine out of the shop down the gangway between all the lathes and milling machines
The Ice factory is now no more, having burnt down I believe in the late 1960s
|Thread: San Ou K72 - 200 4Jaw Chuck Sitrep|
I'm with Howard Lewis in his observations but just out of interest since you don't mention it in your analysis, do these chucks come with hard jaws?
|Thread: Brake drums/discs|
They will also make useful work support stands for the milling table.
|Thread: Screw cutting advice ml7|
Hello von dutch,
Try packing it out on the mounting stud with washers of selected thickness, you will find one that gives it a decent match.
|Thread: Help with machining Titanium|
Sorry to hear your story, your wife will take keen interest in your work to replace the loss.
There are Damascus grades of Titanium alloy that take on multiple swirling oxidation colours with heating after the machining work, otherwise the straight grades [available oddly enough from HPC gears] will still colour up but not in the attractive mixed form that jewellers achieve with the Damascus grades.
I did the machining work on two wedding rings for one of my grandson's and his wife, a dummy sizing run in the straight grade HPC material and then the proper rings in the fancy grade that Chris had found.
I think an intense localised flame like oxi/gas with immediate quenching gets the best colouration but there are also electrolytic methods I believe that might give deeper and more durable colours. Not a field I have any experience with.
As others have said, take care with the swarf; I fired mine outside later. As for tooling, ordinary tipped tooling will make as good a job as any other, nothing fancy is needed; Ti machines in a very similar manner to the stainless steels
Enjoy the challenge
Edited By Brian Wood on 04/07/2021 10:18:21
|Thread: Help to identify Lathe|
My guess is a Drummond. There are plenty of owners who will give you a better opinion and you will get a lot more information from the Drummond entry on Tony Griffith's superb archive website----www.lathes.co.uk
|Thread: Bureaucracy with a tinge of Madness|
This has all the hallmarks of a scam, despite your assurances to the contrary. I would watch very carefully for developments as you have got this far into it
|Thread: Dore-Westbury Mill|
Hello again John,
Picking up on your plans for a DRO on the DW mill. I agree with you on the thinking behind going for a version that displays PCDs, it is one of the most useful features even if you don't expect to use it very often.
Nice to hear your have been able to acquire a decent and well made piece of kit
There is a really simple fix for loss of position when having to raise/lower the column during cutting operations.
Buy yourself one of those laser board pointers, the green is a good strong colour, and park it up on top of the mill aimed at some distant vertical edge in your workshop. Any error will be utterly trivial over a long distance, far better I think than struggling with other mechanical methods..
And another simple tip, this time for tramming the head, is to use a lathe faceplate on the nose of the spindle brought down flat to the table. Cheap, quick and in my view a whole lot easier than messing about with rotated dial test indicators or twin versions of them on frames.
Enjoy your new toy. I've had nearly 30 years of use out of mine since building it, and it has worked hard at times.
|Thread: Mk. 2 Progress Model 1 bench drill.|
You are correct in your assessment, the ring is used to push off the chuck when fitted to the Jacob taper
I would extend the arbour tang so that you can use a drift to separate the Morse tapers
My drill is the New Progress #1 which only has the knurled ring for chuck release
|Thread: Alexander Master Toolmaker|
In the words of a well known but deceased TV presenter " Didn't he do well ! "
I agree whole-heartedly with your course of action and the logic of going for a motor with good low revs torque, I imagine with a machine tool of that calibre, shifting metal as a grunt operation will be the more frequent use rather than doing things at high speed.
I'm glad to have been instrumental in pointing a way ahead, I hope the rest of the restoration goes well for you..
They are parallel to the pulley axis but displaced downwards around the circumference by 5 degrees either side of the equator.
I found the most satisfactory way of tapping them [3/8 inch whit in my insert] was to drill and tap the holes first before boring the 8 degree taper so that you finish up bisecting them on the face of the bush.
If you are in anyway unhappy about all that, do a Google search and find someone who has a believable drawing showing the correct geometry, there are lots of entries under taper lock bushes
I don't think sleeving with shim stock would be satisfactory at all, far better to grip the new size of motor shaft with a taper fit coupling.
You should be able to find one with the keyway cut to suit the new 8 mm wide key. They are not a silly price either.
I have refurbished an old Churchill lathe that had a huge 55 kg 1 HP 3 phase 2 speed motor with a shaft of 1.125 inch diameter and 1/4 inch wide key---the replacement from Newton Tesla is 2 HP with a shaft diameter of 26 mm, 6 mm key and weighs 17.5 kg. The march of progress in motor design and technology!
Maybe I am coming in a bit late with this suggestion regarding the reworking of the motor pulley, but are you aware of taper fit couplings that can be used to couple bosses to motor shafts?
Look them up through Google, the pulley you have inherited could well have enough meat in it to machine up to accept one of these fittings.
A word of warning if you buy one and that is to be aware of a 5 degree bias circumferentially when machining the matching holes for the grub screws that close the bore onto your new motor shaft. They are not diametrically opposite which might be what the little drawing that comes with the bush suggests
|Thread: Myford extension for spindle.|
Oh, sorry, the extension is to the spindle nose. I assumed, without checking, that it would be as I described.
I'm sorry, I can't help with a use for an extension this way round.
To guide swarf out of the bore and through the hole in the change wheel door, rather than have it falling into the change wheels inside the cover.
|Thread: Bantam metric leads crew & half nut|
I am surprised that no-one else has mentioned it before now , but surely there are change wheel arrangements that will give you metric threading using an imperial leadscrew. Are there no guidance set ups in a plate fastened to the change wheel cover or elsewhere on the lathe? It would save you a lot of money and the approximations are usually remarkably close.
|Thread: Screwcutting on the Bantam|
I think you may find the tooth form will be DP and perhaps 14.5 degree pressure angle. I am going by the vintage here but I may be wrong on the pressure angle, it could be 20 degrees making for stronger gear teeth by virtue of the slightly broader tooth base.
Owners will be able to confirm my thoughts
|Thread: 935 bronze|
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