By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Brian Wood

Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What size lathe would I need ?
28/05/2020 10:15:47

Martin,

I was trying to read ahead a bit and anticipate the series of questions that might follow on in the light of Nathan being a beginner at this kind of work, should he decide to attempt to take it on, while at the same time giving him a straight answer to his question.

I'm not sure that a sketch will help matters a lot for him other than "how do I make 4 of these?".

I don't think I would have the strength now to hump a length of 6 inch bar into a big lathe chuck without standing on the lathe bed to do it safely and comfortably.

Brian

Thread: questions about setting up my Myford ML4
28/05/2020 09:33:38

Hello Andrew,

It might just be a little cheaper than golf as a hobby, but once the bug has bitten, the interest expands along with the expense!

I would warrant it more rewarding in the long run though.

Regards Brian

Thread: What size lathe would I need ?
28/05/2020 09:26:45

Hello Natham,

Welcome to the Forum.

You are likely to need something pretty substantial, a lathe having at least a six inch clearance over the bed [12 inch swing in North American parlance] is the sort of thing I am talking about, together with chucks big enough to safely hold billets of that diameter. This puts the job firmly into the category of heavy industrial sized machinery.

It will also need a hefty motor, say 5-8 HP, to cope with the bulk of metal shifting that will be needed, along with flood cooling to help with the machining. This is NOT a job for small machines.

Without trying to dampen your enthusiasm in any way, and in the light of your stated lack of experience, would it be more cost effective for you to put the work out to a local organisation having the machinery to handle it and prepared to take on one offs of this kind?

Regards Brian

Thread: questions about setting up my Myford ML4
27/05/2020 17:37:18

Sorry Andrew, I really don't know; I have no longer got my Dad's old ML4 to measure.

If you have thread gauges it will not be difficult to check. One thing I can be sure of, it will not be metric!

Kind regards Brian

27/05/2020 08:27:29

Hello Andrew,

If you have some Scotchbrite pad you could ease the bore of the bullwheel with it, being careful to avoid bell mouthing it when you do so. It was made to a nominal 1 inch bore diameter but it could be a few tenths less which would make it tight.

Alternatively, try warming it with a hair dryer before you fit it

Kind regards Brian

Thread: Hi from Woking
24/05/2020 16:33:24

Hello Chris,

Welcome to the Forum. I don't know your L5A lathe nor that particular model of vertical mill but you do seem to be well equipped.

I'm sure I am not alone in saying it will be interesting to hear of your progress.

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford ML4 half nuts
22/05/2020 17:55:36

Hello Jon,

Nice to be trusted, thank you. The most you are going to lose will only be an M 6 washer, as long as you have a proper grip on whatever the turning fixture is made from.

Not a lot to risk in my book!!

I would be interested to hear how it went

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 22/05/2020 17:56:06

22/05/2020 14:12:01

Jon,

Make sure you allow a good cure time, these adhesives are stronger than you perhaps imagine.

Don't go hard at it though, you don't want it to heat up on machining, that will break the bond prematurely

Brian

22/05/2020 12:59:51

Hello Jon,

As I remember them, the half nut studs were threaded at the point of attachment and left in plain shaft diameter to engage with the slots in the operating lever. On my Dad's old lathe, there was a screwdriver slot across the end of the stud to help screwing each into the half nuts. The studs were in nothing fancy, I imagine mild steel.

On your washer question.

May I suggest a short turned sacrificial stud that fits into the existing hole in the 6 mm washer, with a turned face at the rear to support the washer, Attach A to B with your favourite instant adhesive and when set open up the bore to 1/4 inch diameter

Kind regards Brian

Thread: Md-30 Milling Machine Pulley Cover
21/05/2020 09:07:13

Just a suggestion Jeremy.

If the Major mill is so similar, there may be a way ahead for you to "adjust" the pulley cover from that rather than fabricate your own; always assuming of course that you can acquire it as a s[pare part.

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford Super 7 (with gearbox) Leadscrew Removal
20/05/2020 09:22:00

Mike,

It is such an very obvious question but you are working on the 52 T gear aren't you?

As others have said, it should come off relatively easily, that then allows you access to remove the woodruff key and the leadscrew shaft is then free to to remove towards the tailstock.

Good luck with the overhaul, I don't have the apron you have so can't help with the bushes.

Kind regards Brian.

Thread: Bracknell - New Member
18/05/2020 17:53:30

Hello Chris,

Welcome to the Forum.

Sadly I can't help you with either the magazines, I am trying to slim the storage and I never got into Subuteo

There will be others interested I feel sure.

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 18/05/2020 17:53:54

Thread: Harrison L5 - removing feedshaft, lead screw and associated paraphernalia!
18/05/2020 11:13:09

Hello James,

Neither do I so you will need input from an owner, most assuredly!

Glad to have been of help with the lathe

Regards Brian

17/05/2020 13:54:18

Hello James,

"Slightly duff brass screw in the leadscrew"--what's that all about I wonder?

Anyway, glad to be of help. Use the procedure as a road map and adjust according to local conditions, I don't think you will go far wrong

Machine specific information would though be useful for you, there must be many on the Forum with one of these lathes who can give you that detail

Kind regards Brian

17/05/2020 11:06:37

Hello James,

Welcome aboard and enjoy the ride!

I imagine this model will be pretty similar to many others and perhaps the following generic description will help you.

First, disconnect the leadscrew and power shaft support from the tailstock end of the lathe bed.

Now disconnect the power shaft and leadscrew at the gearbox end of the lathe. Details will vary machine to machine but it is likely the power shaft will be coupled via a external sleeve with taper pin attachment at both ends of the sleeve. Release the one on the saddle side by tapping it out [do note which way the taper pin fits!!]

The leadscrew may enter the gearbox in a support bearing that is either bolted to or into a recess in the gearbox. Remove the bolts and set them aside. Engage the half nuts on the leadscrew and gently crank the saddle handwheel. With luck you may be able to draw both shafts free of the gearbox

Now you have the saddle, apron and both the shafts free as a combined unit. Look for the bolts holding the apron up onto the saddle. They will be cap head, often 4 but maybe 6 in total, Put a support below the apron to take the weight as you unbolt the two. Note if a short or extra long bolt is fitted in one position. Release the securing bolts and then carefully lower the apron, with it's two shafts still in place, down into the swarf tray.

The saddle should now be free to slide along the bed out of the way. Lift the apron clear of the swarf tray, it will be heavy so be prepared for that, and set aside for your attention.

A WORD OF WARNING Do not withdraw the power shaft without having taken the precaution to make a dummy in a piece of wood dowelling, complete with a keyway. If you look inside you will see one or maybe two worms that are driven by that shaft. They will be flanked by thrust bearings on both sides and it will save you a lot of grief later to use the dummy shaft to support all that by "chasing" the power shaft out as you withdraw it. For added security, fit a hose clip to each end of the dowelling to keep it in place as you work on the apron later.

The leadscrew should just withdraw but use your loaf and check there isn't some cunning interlock that drops out without the shaft being in position to keep it there.

Rebuild in a reverse of the procedure above.

The saddle will have underbed clamp strips both front and back. Removing these will allow you to lift the whole saddle off the bed. Look carefully at the orientation of these clamp strips, they may be thicker on one side. Note which that is and reinstate it the same way. The saddle will be lighter to lift if you unbolt the compound slide and lift that free

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 11:07:15

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 11:15:24

Thread: [Project 1] M300 screwcutting gearbox repair
17/05/2020 10:19:03

Well done Lee,

An ingenious solution I must say but isn't the same problem going to arise later on at the remote end to your fix where the shaft comes out through the gearbox? The follower shaft is now no longer parallel with the cam shaft or the gears it shifts

I can see you may be forced to be more radical next time and make a new eccentric support inboard of the point of exit for the follower shaft so that it can be made to move truly parallel with the cam shaft below.

Enough for now of course but maybe a point to ponder on. Enjoy using the lathe, it looks like a very capable machine.

Of course, by then, your confidence will be more than sufficient to tackle the skimming of the delrin cams instead

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/05/2020 10:30:57

Thread: Churchill Cub lathe
16/05/2020 17:09:33

I am in the process of restoring one of these British made lathes; this one was made in 1947 in Huddersfield

Is there anyone else on the Forum who owns one? My interest is mainly for information exchange

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
16/05/2020 11:49:02

Hello Luke,

You are quite right, 6 tenths of a thou, I got a decimal place wrong so made that rather more at 6 thou!

Leave well alone---sorry to be alarmist.

A test bar would be a good accessory but it isn't really necessary at this stage.

A first setting for your tailstock is easy enough but it does depend on having a 3 jaw chuck you trust. It works as follows. Wind out the barrel, mark the outside with a black marker pen and offer it up to the chuck with the jaws just touching, Pull over the spindle by hand for a rotation or two and see where the marking has rubbed off. Offset the tailstock accordingly a little and repeat the sequence, chasing the "grip" of the jaws down as you do until the marking is pretty evenly wiped off all round. Lock the lailstock offset at that point.

Now you can refine that setting, if it needs it, with fine adjustments to the tailstock offset on a turning test between centres

The cross slide handwheel of 42 divisions is a close approximation to 0.002" per division. The 80 divisions that Myford offered gave 1.042 thou movement per division.

Kind regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 16/05/2020 11:55:01

Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed
16/05/2020 11:32:35

Ian and S.O.D,

I can only describe what happened in our case and I imagine the simplest way of setting up overhead supply as it was in our case would be a tapping off two phases in the village transformer. along with a neutral and run that on poles across the fields.

The sparking from the neutral where the broken cable was thrashing about in the field was quite impressive, it also attracted the attention of the stupid bullocks as you might imagine. It took a lot of arm waving to keep them off it.

Regards Brian

Thread: Myford ML4 Restoration: Headstock bearings and spindle removal
16/05/2020 10:11:21

Robert,

I remember the groove now you mention it

Jon,

I quote " The bull wheel is normally free to rotate on the spindle as it will have varying speeds to the spindle any slack is magnified" That is where I got the information

Luke,

Your gearing set up as described will give you a truly fine feed off 0.004 inches per revolution of the workpiece. Did you measure your runout using the spindle MT bore or the plain external register? At least the vertical register is as good as you can expect.

David,

It maybe needs a leap of faith for Luke at this stage to take metal off his plain diameter. All is not lost though if he feels that has been a mistake, a sleeve will restore the status quo.

Kind regards to all Brian

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Allendale Electronics
Ausee.com.au
Warco
emcomachinetools
cowells
ChesterUK
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest