Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tom Senior|
Thank you for the photo, it makes all the difference to understanding what the problem is.
The overarm, to give it it's proper name, is clamped by two pinch bolts, the other is behind the motor at the rear of the body that close shaped blocks onto the bar when tightened.
I suspect the gap between the two clamps is non existent and they close on each other. To put that right, slacken the two bolts, pull out the whole bar and then lift the clamps from the bores they live in. Machine off a little, only a little, of the face where the scallops face each other to increase the gap again, refit and insert the bar again. They should now clamp with no further difficulty.
Lathe tailstocks often use the same method to grip the barrel rather than squeeze a slot.
I hope that helps you
|Thread: Quick Q about Warco/Sieg Lathes|
I have no particular reason other than familiarity to think that a Myford lathe is 'better' than the Chinese made Sieg, but as a long term owner and user of Myford lathes and with you actually finding a nice one nearby to see and test, I would be inclined to go for that.
Steadies can be found on ebay
|Thread: Milling for Beginners Book|
I believe they have been published by Arc Euro as an independent enterprise and may not yet have been allocated an ISBN
Talk to Arc, they will know
|Thread: 18g Nail Gun Pins for Lock Keys|
I think silver steel should do just as well. Machine it as soft and harden when you have it to the right diameter
|Thread: Tooth cutter indexer|
Thank you for posting this.
I watched the video with interest but was left with several questions the man didn't address.
One of these is the use of a dowel pin to be placed in one of two holes at the bottom of the device, after which a quadrant [made in brass for some reason] was moved into contact and locked. It wasn't clear what this achieved or why it was considered necessary.
The radius arm that rotated the fixture was anchored back to a firm mounting to the side of the shaper, but no allowance was made for the errors introduced from the arrangement; a form of Watts parallel linkage was surely essential.
He spent a lot of time showing how the device was machined but the critical details on it's working were skimmed over too briefly to follow.
Intriguing but it left too much unsaid and in the final closing words we were told there were inaccuracies arising from the lack of bushes at the ends of the radius arm as if that explained away a fundamental design fault
|Thread: Churchill Cub lathe|
No email contact I'm afraid. I don't know how you did the address but cur and paste will not work as I presented it first time
|Thread: Myford ML10 - Disengaging the Autofeed|
I don't know the answer but bumping this for you will hopefully find an owner who does know. Welcome to the forum by the way, there is all manner of knowledge here to be tapped.
|Thread: drivetrain ratios|
I agree with you, a whole new set in MOD1 would simplify the whole business
They can't both be the same diameter and have the same number of teeth, the 24 DP wheel will be smaller in diameter for the same number of teeth if that is chosen as the governing parameter.
If I remember the earlier post correctly, Sorceror has a 24 tooth wheel and a 127 tooth wheel, both in 24 DP. He could retain those to run together and operate the first part of the train in 20 DP as Martin Cleeve did, having a 20DP and 24DP pair coupled together to make the transition
What is FDR please?
They will not run together as a pair, the DPs need to match
Edited By Brian Wood on 10/10/2020 14:03:07
|Thread: DRO TECH QUESTION|
Irrespective of the quality or make of the DRO you buy in the end, I would urge you to be sure it includes the PCD function for setting out patterns of holes, an especially useful function for odd numbers of divisions for example that are tedious in the extreme to place by coordinate methods.
Mine is a Newall as I have had good experience in the use of equipment made by that company before I took the plunge in my workshop.
It will index repeatedly and accurately up to 99 divisions in a full circle just by the action of winding the handles to move the table back to a 0.000 x 0.000 display before calling for the next set of numbers for the following division..
|Thread: Another lathe question|
I would be looking a little further ahead to where you might be moving to next year and perhaps delaying your workshop construction to settlement at the next site. You might find more tolerant neighbours there, or even worse if you are unlucky!
We had good advice from an old diplomat in the village we lived in years ago which was to hire a private detective to investigate the neighbourhood for you rather than spend the money on surveys and the like
|Thread: Work Holding for simpletons|
I have another suggestion and that is bolt the 4J chuck to the angle plate and hold the job that way.
I noted that the next hole will be 30 mm diameter which will be significantly more demanding on the workholding needed
|Thread: Right at the beginning|
My experience does not follow the tidy progression Ady suggests. For me it is often the start as having made the widget, you then need it to use it to make something else before you are in a position to make the jig you needed in the first place!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Gearbox Taper Pin|
Good for you, and also good to know you will be running on the home straight again.
Purely out of interest, was the idler gear made in steel and was it hardened? I ask because I had a screwcutting gearbox on a 1902 Hendey lathe to rebuild as a commission, the input gear was 28 T in soft steel that had bent teeth, bits of other gear teeth made in cast iron imbedded between the teeth and other such distortions, but none were actually broken.
It was of course unusable and the soft steel idler gear linking this badly abused input gear with the cone of gearing was worn down to mere stumps of teeth. Once again, they were all present and you described your failure initially as being a broken tooth.
Actually, the idler gear that links input to the rest of the gearing does work hard for it's living.
Best wishes for the future
Hello again David H,
My stock of taper pins I'm afraid doesn't include the size you need.
I suggested EKP supplies, you will find them via Google. If they are unable to help you I'll make one for you from 4 mm silver steel. Send me a PM if you need that, along with your address so that I can post it.
Hello David George,
I think you are confused!
It is David Haythorthwaite who needs the pin, not me, I have some that I am going to measure now that he, David H has quoted dims. for the replacement and in any case I have also pointed him at EKP suppliers , a UK organisation who have pins in both imperial and metric sizes who may have what he needs off the shelf.
Thank you though for your input
Hello again David,
I don't think you have tried very hard, lots to find via Google and eBay
Try EKP supplies.
Imperial pins are identified by the diameter of the larger end, the number system seems to be defunct. The taper is 1 in 48 and I suspect your pin will be 3/32 inch diameter
Best wishes Brian
I have a selection of taper pins but no idea of the sizes a pin in # 0 comes in. If you can tell me those dimensions I'll happily post you one, assuming I have one. If not I'll make one for you.
I was wondering how you had got on since your holiday
Best wishes Brian
I don't want to burst your bubble, but that diameter, 1/32 inch, will not be able to contain a square form 16 TPI thread, there will be no metal left .
Edited By Brian Wood on 30/09/2020 19:37:50
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