Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford A1|
My Dad's ML4 which he bought in 1945 had the serial number D 2382 which may help track down the model number and year of manufacture for Leslie's find
|Thread: Magnetic swarf|
Cast iron does not hold residual magnetism in the same way as steel does which may explain why it is not noted as a problem with DTI mounts on such surfaces.
|Thread: filling holes in bronze castings|
Brazing if you have the means would be a good option as that will give you equivalent strength in the filled holes if you need to rework them with threads
|Thread: Dore-Westbury mills|
When I built my Mk II, I fitted a 1/2 HP motor to it without thinking about the power requirement. The motor itself was a farm sale rescue that had a broken foot mounting but was otherwise a first rate Brook Crompton with ball bearings rather than oilite bushes. Because of the damage the motor was unused and cost me £2
From the experience I have had in nearly 30 years of use, I would consider anything less powerful would rather hold the machine back in its capabilities
Edited By Brian Wood on 02/05/2021 10:20:34
|Thread: Help please!|
You asked for some idea of value. Much depends on what accessories it has to go with it, other chucks, faceplate, stead(y)s and the set of change wheels for example, the list is not exclusive. These Myford lathes hold their value and one in cared for family ownership, rather than end of life eBay disposal, could fetch up to £500. A private sale will always do better for you than via a dealer offer.
You might find someone on the forum who would be willing to visit and give you a better idea; some idea of your town/city location will I'm sure get a volunteer. I live in North Yorkshire outside Thirsk if that gives you some idea.
Good luck Brian
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
The late John Stevenson once confessed to owning seven angle grinders, having 'lost' the previous six!
Like everyone else, I can put a tool down, pick up something else and then lose them both.
|Thread: small lathe job needed|
With it held in the drill chuck, try tapping it straight with a soft famed hammer, or a short length of timber and hammer to chase the run out to something like it should be.
I don't think it will be made in hardened materials and that way you can fix it yourself
Hello Brian G,
Your analysis agrees with mine, point for point using a 2 mm pitch leadscrew, the results when trying a 12 TPI leadscrew were a whole lot worse and I hope others with recent purchases who will send them back. These results are quite frankly atrocious which ever way you cut the cake and I suspect the 56 wheel is a big mistake..
The Grizzly lookalike GO 768 has a 40T spindle wheel and results that are acceptable when matched to a 12 TPI leadscrew, which threw me to start with as in my experience it is very unusual
It is all very unfair on a potential purchaser who is in no position to do other than take the values on trust. There are at least three other Chinese factories making these under different names than a CD 210V, all are fitted with the same gearing plate.
Caveat emptor I think.
Hello Russell and Brian G,
I don't think that will solve the dilemma for Brian G or my understanding of this lathe for that matter until we know what the correct leadscrew pitch is.
I did ask Julian to do some tests for me to establish it properly so that I could send revised tables to him but having bought his BSW die that now sounds like a dead end..
If Brian G can establish the truth, one way or another, I have a complete and extended set for both languages ready to go based on a 2mm pitch leadscrew. It is not a lot of added effort to rework those based on one of 12 TPI. Send me a PM if that would help you.
Hello again Howard,
I now have every reason to suspect this new crop of lathes from China are fitted with 12 tpi leadscrews and not a metric thread of 2mm pitch as Julian said he had measured.. The very similar lathe on the Grizzly website is equipped that way but the threading tables are very different of course with a 40 T spindle gear. Using a 12 tpi leadscrew in the calculations does give realistic results for that machine.
However, trying this new approach on the CD 210V gearings as listed gives a completely incorrect set of results for the whole range of pitches, both metric and imperial so I am now withdrawing from this unrewarding pursuit to leave it to others with perhaps more stamina to figure out the wily Chinese mind.
I think MC Black is right to suggest cutting the thread with a die instead!!
I was making a lot of assumptions with my calculation. I now have Julian's photo of the headstock [with a fixed 56 T gear on the lathe spindle] and showing the threading tables; he tells me his leadscrew pitch is 2mm
I have had to recalculate accordingly, the value one gets from the machine plate is 9.84 TPI
I am hoping Gerard O'Toole will get in touch, he has the same lathe and my new tables might be of interest to him as well
There is a personal message waiting for you, it might be of interest.
|Thread: Source of 2 inch balls for water pump|
Would squash balls be the right sort of size, they are certainly somewhat softer than snooker balls>
Edited By Brian Wood on 08/04/2021 16:11:38
|Thread: Horizontal Bandsaw Problems - -Advice Please.|
I cured my Axminster 6 x 4 bandsaw of equally bad habits by going back to basics and aligning the blade guides against a tensioned wire. The wire was snugged fully into the right angle of the flange on both top and bottom wheels. However, before I was able to set things up that way, the blade guide blocks were clamped up crudely on as cast surfaces so these had to be milled flat and at right angles.
On my machine the blade runs between sealed ball bearings on either side of the blade and one running on the back of the blade. The work which had the greatest influence on blade life and truth in a cut was getting the geometry right against the tensioned wire.
It now cuts correctly on demand and with a bi-metal blade in place [10 tpi for most work, 14 for pipe] the blade life is excellent. Prior to this work blade life might have degenerated to one blade for each job..
|Thread: Milling machine thoughts?|
A good tip for tramming the mill head I was given years ago is to mount a lathe faceplate on the nose of the mill and bring it down flat onto the table, where it can be held under some quill loading while things are clamped up again.
Your quill wont reach that far? No problem if you have a cube or similar bolting fixture as I have, or even two angle plates bolted together to make up the essential shape if you don't have one of those.. It takes minutes.
David Wilkes of many videos trams his Bridgeport by simply using the flat face of an end mill holder brought down into contact in the same way. Being a professional where time really is money to him it is a quick and effective solution he can use in the middle of a job during the course of his work
You have a PM waiting for you
|Thread: slipping eccentrics?|
I don't know the design in this case but is it not possible to drill radially down the eccentric and shaft and pin them together with a silver steel pin? That's what I had in mind.
|Thread: strange 240v pump 'switching'|
I also have one of these submerged pumps and from time to time it stops running, but without restarting. I traced that fault to a badly worn shaft the ferrite impellor runs upon, it was actually grabbing the sides of the tunnel it runs in.
It is now on it's third such shaft, stainless steel versions last about 3 years and eventually wear paper thin at one end. We think it is frog poo in the little pond it lives in that does the damage.
Perhaps Tony's pump is showing early signs of the same malaise.
|Thread: Warco 712 Bandsaw|
I can see all the well intentioned reasons why people should respond to Richard's request for views in the way that they have, but I couldn't help feeling that the overall flavour coming over was that we all knew better than him and he should get his Axminster machine to do what it should rather than just dump it.
One such comment was especially close to the bone in my view by even suggesting he might perhaps sell it on to an unsuspecting buyer
He will have his reasons for wanting to make the change and we are entirely wrong to question them, whatever we may personally think.
Edited By Brian Wood on 04/04/2021 11:09:59
Maybe I shall get a lot of flak for my thoughts on this thread but isn't it just a bit presumptuous of us to be questioning the OP's reasons behind his request?
He wanted feedback from those with experience of use of a Warco 712 bandsaw, not a barrage of reasons why he shouldn't be thinking of spending his money buying one.
Taking cover now
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