Here is a list of all the postings Brian Wood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Getting an ML7|
I was brought up on a Myford lathe, an ML4 which my Dad bought new in 1945. For a seven year old kid it was a splendid machine and it came to me when he died in 1963.
I used it for much of the turning work on building the Dore Westbury milling machine, changed it for a nicely used ML7 owned by a friend and that too was exchanged for an ML7R; another carefully used lathe from an engineer I got to know quite well and whose work professionally I admired.
The stable has expanded somewhat and is now supported by a nice Smart and Brown Sable, the " posh" clone of the American Southbend lathe and more recently a Churchill Cub, a much larger capacity machine I have restored which was made in Halifax in 1947.
My favourite however is still the Myford and I think you will be only too happy with your new toy. Treat it with respect and care, you will get many years of good service from it.
|Thread: Bandsaw blade speed for brass.|
You might find the job goes better and more quietly if you use a cushion of delivery box cardboard beneath the sheet and push the sandwich through as you go.
Edited By Brian Wood on 11/08/2020 11:16:32
|Thread: The making of Steel Balls|
Well found Michael, absolutely fascinating
|Thread: Cutting an M33 x 3.5 thread on my ML7|
I can offer four thread set ups for this pitch
For a Myford ML7 with gearbox the Mandrel gear will be 33 teeth; it replaces the 24 tooth gear of the standard imperial gearing. Match that to 10 TPI selected on the gearbox---the pitch generated will be 3.493 mm
For change wheel machines here are three alternative choices. They all need a 63 tooth wheel in the gear train
Mandrel 38---drives 63 on the first stud which is linked to 55 teeth. Idler(s) will be needed to couple to 30 teeth on the leadscrew. Pitch outcome is 3.51 mm
Mandrel 50---drives 63 on the first stud which is linked to 50 teeth, Again idler(s) will be needed to couple to 36 teeth on the leadscrew. Pitch outcome is 3.499 mm
Mandrel 60---drives 63 teeth on the first stud which is linked to 44 teeth. Once again idlers will be need to couple to 38 teeth on the leadscrew. Pitch outcome 3.501 mm
Others have suggested you practice on easier pitches to start with and use a mandrel handle for manually cutting these coarse threads
Finally you ask what hole size is needed to tap your 33 mm x 3.5 mm thread. It should be 29.5 mm diameter
Kind regards Brian
Edited By Brian Wood on 31/07/2020 20:52:46
Edited By Brian Wood on 31/07/2020 20:53:19
|Thread: Today's delivery|
I have had several deliveries of long slender items from metals4U that are taped securely to lengths of timber longer than the items they are protecting before being wrapped in yards of cling film over the whole combination.
Without fail, these arrive intact and undamaged. They use a variety of couriers
|Thread: Hi there|
Welcome aboard Pete--it sounds like you have made many steps already on what is an absorbing and rewarding interest.
Do write up your work, material of that kind is always interesting. In the meantime, enjoy learning as you go along
Brian from a rather stormy looking day in North Yorkshire
|Thread: Making sense of big numbers|
Daunting isn't it?
|Thread: ML7 3jaw pratt burnard|
What these methods will not be able to correct is in the case of a badly worn chuck whose jaws are sloppy in the guides, by that I mean capable of being rocked backwards and forwards in the guide. Another situation that defies such correction is in the case of a strained and damaged scroll which will affect the jaw closings in an unpredictable way
The fix for these basket cases is to replace the chuck I'm afraid.
Clearance along the guide is OK, the methods work in that case
|Thread: Boxford model A gears|
You could well be right, it is several years since I rebuilt the Sabel gearbox and I could easily have forgotten that small but important detail.
Sorry if I have raised your hopes prematurely
Here's a suggestion.
There are two combination gears [16/32 teeth] in the doubling gearing part of the gearbox. The noisy one has perhaps had a lot of use and you could perhaps put off the day when action has to be taken by swapping them over
Myford gears are 20 DP so they will definitely not mesh with the 16 DP gearbox gears.
|Thread: Jig for hand tapping|
For years now I have used the drill chuck that made the tapping hole to grip the tap, taper version [ #1 first of course]
Insert the tap into the hole, apply pressure on the quill and rotate the tap using the chuck key to feed it into the hole, keeping the pressure up to help it.. After a few turns, I lock the quill, undo the chuck and now, as the tap has started truly vertical, transfer the job to the bench vice and complete the tapping in the normal way.
A wooden wedge placed strategically in a table slot will stop the job or vice it is mounted in spinning while the first few engagement turns for the tap are being made
Simple, low tech, quick and effective
Edit. Ian beat me to it, he clearly types faster than I do
Edited By Brian Wood on 16/07/2020 18:13:33
|Thread: Boxford model A gears|
If it's any help, when I overhauled my Smart and Brown Sabel on purchase, [their clone of the Southbend lathe], the gears in the gearbox were all 16 DP and at that age they would be 14.5 degree pressure angle.
I imagine Boxford followed the design in that respect as well.
Edited By Brian Wood on 16/07/2020 09:18:28
|Thread: Trembling laptop|
I suspect an earth leakage fault. Test between the panel surround for the keypad and a known good earth.
Edited By Brian Wood on 15/07/2020 08:08:40
|Thread: The 2038 computer bug|
I'm with Jimmy b----I expect it will be something I won't be around any longer to have to bother myself about! Besides, the speed of development in this field will have very probably eliminated that kind of concern and exhausted the finances of the buying public struggling to keep up with the latest trends.
|Thread: Pratt Burnerd chuck|
You can change the order in which the jaws are loaded as an alternative. Try 1 - skip- 3- now 2.
I have a chuck with a broken tooth on Jaw 1, it works perfectly well using the sequence 2-3-1
|Thread: 4MM Carbide end mill marks|
I would hazard a guess at these marks being evidence of vibration or tool snatching. Rotary table braking to stiffen the action might improve it and a lot will depend of whether you were 'climb' milling
|Thread: Milling Machine Table Repairs|
Why not snatch victory from disaster and thread them instead for additional clamping variations?
|Thread: Smart and Brown Sabel|
They are close down cast iron bearings, not lift off caps. It is though possible to set them very finely.
The oiling wicks can be held down with needles through the drain holes at the bottom of the bearings; it makes the job of inserting the spindle possible without trapping them as you slide it in from the front. It is still a fiddle to get it home successfully.
|Thread: Elliott M10 Tapered Ram and slideways|
I'm sorry but I can't do much more than bump this up for you to refresh it to the current page.
Maybe it is as well you got this machine cheaply, The previous owner went a long way towards turning it into scrap. Reshaping the main dovetail guide surface on the clutch control lever side of the body will be a really tricky one, likewise the ram dovetails.
Even if you can find a machine shop willing and capable of taking it on, don't expect a lightweight bill.
It might be more sensible to cut your losses before going any further and sell it on for spares
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