Here is a list of all the postings Fowlers Fury has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Valve timing a 5" Tich|
Kevin, you haven't witten which of LBSC's alternative valve gear you have made for Tich.
|Thread: Newton's 3rd Law|
I should have made it clearer in the first post.
I yeald to none in my ignorance of basic physics but this short video, sent by a model engineering friend, even to me clearly contradicted Newton's 3rd Law:-
I was only sent the vid not the YouTube link so it took a little tracking down. The posted comments explain ...but perhaps amusing nevertheless?
Another time-waster spotted on YouTube below. Perhaps I feel less concerned about my wasted workshop time now:-
|Thread: Bending small copper tube|
Have you ever looked at "David Carpenter's website"?
As you'll see above, he made no claims for originality. I made one to the design and am very impressed with how well it works, producing tight bends without kinking or other unwanted distortions.
Artisan showed examples of bends his device had produced:-
I made a few alterations to the design such as a stronger baseplate and also discovered an easy and quick way to make the many rollers. I'm happy to provide details if you decide to go this route.
Emgee ~ thanks for posting that link, it is to the article I referred to above - but couldn't now locate its source.
My latest rings were made for the HP valve chamber and thus smaller in size than those for the main (5" scale) cylinders. As, NDIY comments, the rings take a set at the "right" temp. I over-heated the first batch and half snapped as they were gently spread over the valve bobbin. With the pyrometer, the 2nd batch were gently raised to about 500C and allowed to cool amongst the fire bricks. The pre-cut gaps of 2 thou were held apart in the clamp - as below before being covered with the 'fire bricks'. The 4 rings were then sprung over the bobbin without a problem.
Quote " According to Mr. Parker you clamp the rings in a stack, paint on the Whitening, Heat to cherry red allow to cool and remove whitening with a wire brush. "
Unfortunately, the url I have for the article seems to have expired
|Thread: Cleaning metal for painting|
Someone queried the consituents of dishwasher tablets. There are agents to "bleach", surfactants, and oxidisers e.g. sodium carbonate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium percarbonate and alcohol ethoxylates. Much of their oil removing properties are due to enzymes such as subtiliisins. However the enzymes need cool water, being deactivated in boiling water.
Despite Duncan's advised precautions, I would advise against using "hot & strong" caustic soda. It is very corrosive.
Roger B's advice is fully endorsed !
BTW - white spirits is an oil, OK for most oil-based enamel paints but not cellulose or some acrylics.
|Thread: White rock salt|
+1 (or more) for 240v dehumidifiers left running. Not experienced any rust problems since acquiring a fairly large dehumidifier some years ago.
(Added bonus of a sizeable dehumidifier is the volume of distilled water produced during autumn & winter. This is used by SWMBO in her steam iron, by me in the loco boiler and for car 'screen washer etc etc).
It's many years since my bilateral cataract removals.
A few years later, one night a distinct spider's web appeared in my left eye. First thing next morning the retina was lasered back in the hospital.
I remain amazed at ophthalmic surgeons' skill and continue to wonder how a couple of hundred years ago, aged watchmakers. engravers etc, undoubtedly with cataracts, could achieve such precision in dimly lit workshops.
It's fascinating to watch a video of cataract sugery (if you feel you can !); this is one of the most informative:-
|Thread: cutting upholstery foam|
Re: " As I understand it the foam ,as used in furniture, gives off cyanide fumes when set alight, "
It's a complex issue and drifts way off topic but in essence:-
Relevance to model engineering? Very little I guess unless you insulate the loco's firebox with flex PU or feathers !
In the flexible polyurethane foam industry large blocks are cut with big factory-sized "band knives". And....the blade lubricant used is critical.
As others above have suggested, buy new foam blocks.
|Thread: Basic Electrics|
I'd like to better Peter Shaw's claim to fame viz " And there is the pistol drill at probably 35 to 40 years old (and which still makes the battery powered things look puny!) "
|Thread: Machining cylinder from solid|
Of potentially more impact on your well-being than inhaling some elemental iron and carbon is washing your hands at night after machining cast iron. If married or under some similar constraint, then next morning SWMBO will discover the bottom of the sink/basin is covered with myriads of rust spots, acrylic sinks being the worst as the iron particles lodge in the surface to rust overnight. A rapid application of Jenolite or similar to the surface will be needed to placate her. A dedicated, plastic bowl for hand washing is probably the easier solution but of course, you’ll need to empty it outside every time !
Between centres boring bars.
1. GHT's original article in Model Engineer. Model Engineer, 3rd June 1977 p. 615 (Vol 143, No. 3562)
2. That most valuable compendium of GHT's articles - "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual (vol 1)" 1992. Pub: Tee Publishing, ISBN 1-85761-000-8. It's on page 92.
Copyright of course, but herewith GHT's introductory paragraph. His comment about the normal, 90 deg tool resulting in flexure of a boring bar was well made IMHO. By putting the tool in the bar at an angle, that effect is very much reduced as well as resulting in very much easier ability to measure the swing with a micrometer. Geo. Thomas wrote “….the boring bar in its usual form leaves a lot to be desired. My main objection to it is the absence of any controlled means of advancing the cutter and all my design attempts to provide a suitable means ended in severe weakening of the bar at the point of maximum bending moment.”
IMHO it would time well spent to make one to the GHT design at the maximum diameter commensurate with your cylinder bores.
This was my GHT b-c bar boring out a 5" CI cylinder casting.
That brass item on the casting, under the boring bar, contains several small Neodymium magnets. It should have been within a plastic bag so that thecollected iron bits could have been emptied straight in the bin !
I would have thought that purchasing a CI cylinder casting from one of the ME suppliers was the preferred start but respect your decision to machine from a chunk of CI. Your "raw block" seems to have plenty of machining excess which sadly, many commercial castings do not.
Have you looked at Minx postings here?: **LINK**
If you're going to c/s the tapped holes, do it before you tap them, not after.
|Thread: DRO kit for Myford S7 from Machine DRO|
As Jason recollects above, there were articles describing in full the installation of the M-DRO kit on a S7.
|Thread: Annoying milling cutter diving into the work|
|Much wisdom above, if you're using a cutter with a threaded shank e.g. for Clarkson collet, then turn down diameter of appropriate nut to fit down, inside collet. If screwed down tight to bottom of cutter & cutter is pulled down collet before tightening up, cutter won't run out of collet but as above, clamp each axis.|
|Thread: 2" Clayton Wagon|
|"Hopefully someone may come along with"|
Are you hoping someone will scan them all for you or hoping you'll receive a list of references? If the former, there's copyright infringement to consider. If the latter, you might use one of the online indices. As you probably know, there's always back nos of ME on Fleabay.
The hand pump in the water tank will provide adequate boiler water when stationary.
IMHO what spoils many model Claytons is that builders have not put the compound curvature on the front apron. Fairly easy if you get a large lump of soft wood & shape it as per design. Cut in holes for clamps, anneal the brass sheet and bend to wood former. Then with piercing saw keep cutting 'darts' (Vs) and with more annealing, tap down to form compound curve. Soft solder into joints & after wet & dry it's ready for paint.
Jon, checking a couple of your "later articles" I assume they're all by Bernard Lundberg. I'm not aware his impressive articles were ever published as a collection.
The original construction series by Robin Dyer was easy to follow (must have been as I made one) but Bernard's research adds markedly to the authenticity of the model. For example ME vol 170 (3946) repeats Dyer's confession that he had no information on the front axle; Lundberg's article corrects that.
I'd recommend obtaining a copy of ME 170 (3944) as this contains an informative but very short article by Lundberg "Clayton Wagon General Notes". In the same issue, there's an article about building a Clayton with twin rear axles - though never produced by the works.
There are a few significant shortcomings in the original design. Main one being that the main drive gearing is too fast. My failing memory is that at least one remedy for this was published in ME, but it wasn't elegant or of course, prototypical.
|Thread: Startrite Mercury drill|
|My apologies for creating any additional confusion. Dennis R is correct, the thread is 5/8 BSF. I had no BSF taps & dies >1/2" & obviously no nuts of that thread. I had to place the rule on top of the threaded rod on the scanner and thought there'd be no parallax yet the set up "lost" half a tooth.|
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