Member postings for Fowlers Fury

I've used "Staedtler Lumocolor" Fine pens for many years. They seem to last for ages, will mark on most surfaces even if traces of oil present. Though I've no connection with Staples, various packs & colours available here:-

**LINK**

Congratulations on getting a response, however useless it may be.

Since posting my earlier note re. HMRC, I've written yet again more in hope than expectation that they'll concede I no longer have to submit a tax return. Now, after 2 years of "we aim to respond within 5 weeks" - they've even stopped sending that fallacious promise.

Hey ho,

Apologies if you felt it necessary to begin with "Sorry" - your question is welcome and no doubt others with more knowledge than I will provide you with more helpful advice.
What would be your intention once you've "broadened your horizons" ? Should you then wish to embark on building a small, simple loco or a big stationary engine then I'd look for a 3 1/2 inch lathe. These days, the Far Eastern machines seem to have acquired a reasonable reputation. Other than the small ads here and in the M.E. and MEW etc, one significant source can be the workshops of deceased members of model engineering societies. (Just last week I saw in a soc. newsletter a notice inviting offers for a Myford lathe belonging to a deceased member which had produced a number of good models). You might consider locating a local model engineering society and joining. I'm sure you'd be made welcome as a beginner. Additionally, they might have a small workshop where you could be guided in using a lathe. David Carpenter's website has a list of all such societies.
This is the url

ADDENDUM
I can't locate the list of societies on modelengineeringwebsite, but here is the link to all UK MESs:-

Definite source

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 15/04/2022 22:01:29

Don't think I'm being dismissive but since your question - or similar - has been posed a number of times may I suggest you use the "Search for" box with some keywords?
For example perhaps :- "Beginner's", "Foreign lathes" (recently covered), There is a great amount of experience and advice offered here often with links to other sources of information..

Off-topic maybe, but HMRC are as bad - if not worse. I stopped gainful employment years ago but kept on getting instructions to submit a full, annual tax return each year. The first time I completed their questionnaire to secure their agreement that returns were now unnecessary. I got some standard reply that "we aim to respond within 5 weeks". For the past 2 years, I keep reminding them after a couple of months and get the exact same reply each time.

Before you fit the nut or flange on one end of the pipe, one way to lag is to buy white (sports) shoe laces of appropriate width. Cut off the aglets and pull the lace over the pipe. Bind the ends of the laces onto the pipe with a little brass wire. Always worth drinking a bottle or two of good Rioja just to get the brass wire : - )
The woven fabric looks OK but for more authentic "asbestos" effect, paint the length of shoe lace with a watery mix of Polyfilla.

Obit took a bit of finding in ME 3939 v.170 !
It's a short item within "Club Chat" by Stan Bray based on information received from a George Feilan who presumably resided in Oz. Nothing is offered about the fate of his Tich though. Stan offered sympathy to Leslie's wife, son Terry & daughter Leonie. Perhaps some model engineer in Oz will post with more information.

I checked in Brian Hollingsworth's biography of Curly. There is a picture of "Mavis" the lady next door who nursed Curly during his final days. She is shown standing next to a Tich, possibly Curly's original build?

Doesn't answer your specific question but there's some history of the origin of Curly's designs (plural !) here, which you're no doubt aware of:-
**LINK**

(Having built a Tich from Curly's book many years ago, I can endorse Leslie Clarke's criticisms!)

Mike Poole has captured it 100%.
An author of an esoteric, technical book, pamphlet or journal article makes a pittance on royalties. No way will you (or your estate) recover anything approaching a decent "hourly rate" for all your research & input.
Furthermore, within a relatively short period, illicit copies of your book will be on Fleabuy and other sites offering pdf d/loads and not a penny will you see of the sale price.
Infringement of copyright is honoured more in breach than observance.

Of course, the sale of a few books within copyright at say MES auction nights for club funds, though technically illegal, isn't the issue !

So in answer to:-
"Me, being cost conscious,, ( or tight ) would download What would you do - just out of interest ?"
Do whatever you feel is right, but if you d/l "for free" don't be surprised in future to find that a required new " book on an engine build " has never been written !

Who Called Me?

(https://who-called.co.uk/)

I find this genuine website useful. People are reporting dubious & scam telephone numbers all the time.
(Only of course if the caller doesn't withhold their number).

Whether call or text msg, always worthwhile adding a scam caller's number to the enormous list !.

Bazyle wrote " Perhaps the website could have a headline banner with slogan of the day."

A commendable suggestion.

Could we perhaps begin with my favorite source of pithy wit, the great W.C. FIelds?
His most apposite utterance in this location being:-
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bullsh*t "

Interesting change from model eng !
Seems 2 serious contenders for consideration. I had some vague thought (as usual) that Triumph made many similar-looking bikes for the War Office in WWII and found the pic of the 3TW 350 sv complete with female riders.
Yet there was quite some support for the Beezer M20. Taking the op's original image, there wasn't much that even Photoshop could do with it. However, it would seem that the M20 and 3TW might have had the same basic engine in wartime and shortly thereafter. The alloy covers for the dynamo drive look virtually identical. The tappet adjustment covers are only slightly different. The BSA shows a vertical indentation in the cylinder fins not apparent on the Triumph.
I doubt we'll get nearer to a definitive identification given the poor quality of the original image.
The bike was probably a "bitsa" anyhow.

I have an original copy of Motor Cycling dated July 30th 1942 which has an illustrated article about army maintenance of m/cycles but doesn't contribute to the op's question. However there are within, fascinating bits about the compulsory purchase of m/cycles for military use as well as a form to complete so you could volunteer as a local dispatch rider !

This is it surely:-

Posted here nearly a year ago:-

"It is infuriating now that when opening most websites, you're required to approve or reject "non-essential" cookies before it will load. I have though found one solution which works on 90% of websites. It's a free add-on for Firefox and Chrome called "Behind the Overlay". Firefox version:-

**LINK**

It places a small icon in the search bar, or you can Shift+Alt+x. When confronted by the cookie overlay, either click on the icon or use the 3 key combination and the cookie overlay disappears and access the site as normal. A few sites then block scrolling but there's a work-around described."

By now tho' more sites are circumventing "Behind the Overlay" by stopping progress from the opening page. Yet I still find it works very well for 80+% of web sites. The other 20% get caught with Firefox Focus (N.B. the "Focus" version affords even more protection than the normal Firefox).

Whilst searching thro' back copies of M.E. for an article, I happened upon this entitled "Lappiing - Machining to Millionths" from No. 1996.
I don't think there's a copyright issue with me reproducing this short extract.
If the methodology works as described it could be a simpler approach.
The volume and date can be taken from the image below. If you want to pursue the idea & don't have the original mag issue then I think you may have to seek permission from M.E. publishers for me to copy it to you. Send me a PM if so.

CI cylinders are going to be less aggravation than GM ones for machining and choice of piston rings.
However given the position of the cylinders on Pansy do put screwed plugs into the cylinder end caps so that after each run you can remove them to spray in WD40 or similar so the bores & rings don't rust - they shouldn't but actuation of LBSC's lubricator on Pansy wasn't one of his better designs.

My previous S7 was a well-used buy and initially displayed similar symptoms. Quite a bit of wasted time was spent trying to adjust the gibs before discovering Geo Thomas' book and his observations on Myford gibs. He described the (quote) "wedging action" of Myford gib adjusting screws and how modifying their ends could remedy certain problems. His drawing showed:-

I can't claim to have produced perfect hemispheres on the ends of the adjusting screws but rounding them off reduced, albeit not eliminated, the tightening-up of the saddle along the bed.

(The V-shaped indentations in the topslide gibs were far from smooth - showing considerable scoring. When they were cleaned up and the topslide adjusting screws rounded - movement there was much improved).

My last contribution to this thread.......and that's to repeat the suggestion to read the earlier thread highlighted above.

For example, therein Simon Collier wrote:- "I fitted to a cheap oil can a brass end with an internal o ring selected to squeeze over my ML7 oil nipples. It was a quick and dirty prototype to test the concept, but it worked so well it remains in service. Works a treat. "

As submitted before - many topics, like this one, have been 'done to death' on here previously.
A quick search (top right) will provide many answers.
Try this:-
Forum thread on Myford & oiling

As with many issues/queries raised ~ they have been covered on here before. I'd recommend to "Ignatz" that it's worth looking at this thread of 8 years ago:-
**LINK**

Other useful info can be found by searching on "Esso Nutto"

Shortly after acquiring my new S7B, there was a rumbling noise from around the 1ph motor. Myfords sent out a guy to inspect & rectify. He left me with a 1 litre bottle of Esso Nutto and advised that I always use that for lubrication. (He also left me with 1 litre of Shell Ensis and said to apply regularly to all bare metal surfaces of the lathe. Words of wisdom because there's never been a trace of surface rust since).
Like Martin K above - I'm no bearing expert but I'd support his doubts about chainsaw oil [and his other comments]. When I use such oil in my chainsaw, it leaves a very sticky residue.

I think the consensus re. oil loss is "it ain't broke so don't fix it".