Here is a list of all the postings RJW has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What lathes have you had?|
1st ever lathe was a Boxford CUD, back int' pre internet days when lathes were bought and sold via Exchange & Mart, major cack handed screw up one day and somehow stripped the teeth off the mainshaft gear :/
Myford ML7, one owner from new, beautiful well maintained machine, and the one I Really should have kept,
Star 8mm Watchmaker's lathe, smallest workhorse with good range of accessories, (still use)
Boley 8mm Watchmaker's lathe, bought from estate of 1st Myford (Stalag VIIb inscription in box lid & a keeper)
Myford ML7 bought from late friend when he was needing to shut up shop, needs a lot of fettling (still use)
Unimat 1, found it to be a fiddle to use and flimsy, didn't like it at all and got rid,
Unimat 3 + milling head & attachments, not a bad bit of kit, but asset stripped it for insane money which paid for my Cowells 90 & kit
Sieg C1 + M1 mill, many mod's and tweaks to that machine and half decent if you weren't in a hurry, (sold last week)
Cowells 90 with good range of accessories (overhauled and still use)
|Thread: Anyone have a Clarke CL250MH (Sieg M1)|
Brian, the foot on mine, which I'm guessing will be similar to that on Hollowpoint's lathe, has a rectangular foot about 150mm wide x 40mm deep, so it's long and shallow and has two Allen bolts for attachment at each end, so considering what's hanging from it already, isn't particularly robust to my eye, must admit I've never done anything more than light drilling with it because I bought a floor standing mill soon after I bought the combo', the milling head and post has been shoved under the bench unused ever since,
The cut down leadscrew probably wouldn't be a problem unless going for the extra height with another post, there's not a lot of clearance to use much of it anyway with just a drill is in the chuck and wound all the way up,
Happy to help, if ground hollow tube isn't available from anywhere, I'd be inclined to wait the 5 weeks for the real deal TBH, solid bar would work, but it would likely be a bit heavy at the back and destabilise the machine if you swung the head away from the bed to use the lathe, perhaps even have it toppling over backwards if it isn't bolted down, also not sure how or if the extra weight would twist or affect the bed in other ways over time .
Edited By RJW on 21/02/2019 11:46:01
|Thread: Blackening steel - Caswell Black-Ox kit|
Nicely made clamps and presentation Kevin, well done,
|Thread: John Wilding Elegant Scroll Skeleton Clock|
Cheers John, I've found some photo's of a replacement spring I made for a longcase movement I Restored, it was for a 5 pillar 8 day 'Pinchbeck' clock with a small 'refinement' not normally seen on run of the mill stuff, so it may suit the skeleton, I'll get them into my albums and post them up for you.
Hi John, the ratchet on the mainspring barrel doesn't have a spring, the pawl is initially held away from the ratchet teeth during initial setting up, then engaged and locked tight once the mainspring pre-load is set, it isn't moved again unless necessary to reset the spring preload,
The spring on the fusee wheel holds the ratchet pawl against the teeth on the ratchet wheel adjacent to its train wheel, this can be fashioned out of strip brass, a common repair on antique longcases and fusees when they work harden and break,
|Thread: Unknown Spark Ignition 2 Stroke|
It's possible, but the machining is off centre slightly which makes it look odd, and by the look of it someone has chewed the threads off with mole grips or stripped the threads winding something off the end brutalising it, appears threaded off centre too,
Haven't had the crank out yet because of the shape of it, so no idea what other horrors lay in wait.
Thanks Andrew, much appreciated, I've trawled all over the web and found nothing like it,
Few more photo's:
Can anyone identify this engine for me please,
It's a 2 stroke spark ignition single, fairly crude castings and machining so may have been from a casting kit,
There are no fittings for a contact breaker outfit, but has a machined slot in the nose and clearance for a cam and push rod,
Alloy head, cast iron cylinder, approx 3/4" bore & 1" Stroke, overhung crankpin and a bronze connecting rod, the piston looks a bit skewed with the deflector on the crown hand filed, intake on the back of the cylinder with exhaust through slot drilled & filed in the cylinder casting, carb's missing unfortunately,
Total height approx 3.3/4"crankcase back to front of nose approx 3", crankcase approx 1.5/8"
Edited By RJW on 08/03/2018 21:02:32
|Thread: Optical Dividing Heads V Disc Type|
John, Your spreadsheet is Superb, Many Many thanks for the link and passing it on, I'm sure many others will appreciate it too,
Thanks too for the tips Clive, hard earned from the sounds of it and well noted, Very much appreciated,
All I need now is for this crap weather to clear up and hoof it over to the seller and see the thing, hopefully in the next week, will update accordingly.
Yeah right, have you seen the price of Meccano lately Bazyle
Thanks Hopper, yes I'm heading for gear and pinion cutting plus a few gear wheels for i.c. engines,
|Thread: Cleaning up surface rust|
Jon, the handles and wheels on my ML7 were in a pretty bad way with flaking chrome etc, plus several exposed steel parts on the crosslide and tailstock,
For the handles and handwheels to get the bad chrome off and pitting out, I shoved mine in another lathe (the Myford was stripped) and cleaned them up using 180G production paper to get the real grot out, then worked up to 600G W&D finishing with a scotchbrite pad then general oil, the centres of the wheels got ordinary grey paint.
The acid is dirt cheap typically £1 for 250G of crystals, and safe, you can shove your hands in it but not advisable if you have any cuts, it's also safe to chuck down the drain when done, if you leave it in a tank it'll grow big gobs of mould on the surface so don't leave it hanging around.
|Thread: Optical Dividing Heads V Disc Type|
Thanks Nick, I'm sure I'll get to grips with them quick enough if I go down the mechanical head route, just seems a bit of a black art when you don't have the thing in your hands,
Many thanks all for the comments and links, I've got a better idea of what I'm dealing with now, think I'm going to have to get over to see the machine in the flesh and see what's going on with the spindle,
The transformer and bulb holder will hopefully be fairly straightforward to replicate, just need to find out what it needs if anything to fit chucks and faceplates now,
So in summary, it sounds like a superb bit of kit that's more accurate than anything I'm likely ever to be capable of, and near impossible to fix without a lottery win if bust or has any serious bits missing,
Thanks Michael, that's very helpful, it does appear to be a far easier bit of kit to use as regards use for dividing (no wheels to change or holes to count) but I've no experience with these machines at all (yet), and there appears to be nothing to hold a chuck or faceplate, I gather from the owner that the spindle is threaded but only over a very short distance,
I believe the machine is in good order, but it's the missing bits that are bothering me, the owner knows nothing about it either, it's an estate sale so we're both winging it, it's too far just to nip over and take a look unfortunately.
Would appreciate comments for and against optical dividing heads v the traditional disc types please,
I've been offered a 'PG' type with a matching tailstock at what appears to be reasonable money relative to the more common disc types, it appears to be missing the light transformer and plug and I'm not sure if anything is missing from the spindle nose that would render it unusable without a lot of faff, but at £150 is it worth a punt anyway?
|Thread: FREE TO GOOD HOME|
Thanks Bob, with hindsight, I really should have done it years ago, they'd have been nearly done now
Similar problem to you as well, unfortunately those in the loft are on my side, hey ho, decided I needed to shift things though when we started finding doors getting hard to open, stud walls ain't what they used to be.
Another big plus of putting the cropped pages in binders, I can pull any of them out to scan them into the pc as A4's or whichever flavour they were printed,and run copies off in A3 on my printer, makes them much easier to read without messing up the originals, coming across some very interesting stuff too,
Edited By RJW on 28/02/2018 10:21:04
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