Here is a list of all the postings RJW has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 30 hour clock electric winder|
I have that book on my shelves, a 1st edition hardback, and indeed just 12 pages, also along with Wilding's book on building the 30 hour clock the mechanism was designed for,
The articles in HJ are in the August to December issues according to the first paragraph in the book, so you can probably save yourself a goodly few quid if you have them, as MichaelG mentioned, the book is probably a collection of those articles.
Edited By RJW on 18/05/2021 16:38:32
|Thread: WARNING Scammer|
|Thread: The Home Workshop Dictionary - FREE E-BOOK|
Thanks very much Neil, also bought the Norden, should keep me out from under the feet of 'er indoors for a little while
If anyone has any hassle trying to wade through Amazon's attempts to flog a Prime trial to get to the Kindle for PC download link, go to the reviews, a couple of people who have had the same grief as me have posted a direct link for the software.
|Thread: Clock gear fix|
Andy, is that from the strike train, the wheel that lifts the hammer arbour?
If you let me know what it is, I've got dozens of wheels and several broken movements here and can probably fit you up with a replacement, they usually take a hit from the recoil when the mainspring breaks,
The new section only needs soft soldering because the wheels don't carry enough load to cause any angst, even on antique longcase movements.
Edited By RJW on 07/01/2020 19:13:19
|Thread: What lathes have you had?|
1st ever lathe was a Boxford CUD, back int' pre internet days when lathes were bought and sold via Exchange & Mart, major cack handed screw up one day and somehow stripped the teeth off the mainshaft gear :/
Myford ML7, one owner from new, beautiful well maintained machine, and the one I Really should have kept,
Star 8mm Watchmaker's lathe, smallest workhorse with good range of accessories, (still use)
Boley 8mm Watchmaker's lathe, bought from estate of 1st Myford (Stalag VIIb inscription in box lid & a keeper)
Myford ML7 bought from late friend when he was needing to shut up shop, needs a lot of fettling (still use)
Unimat 1, found it to be a fiddle to use and flimsy, didn't like it at all and got rid,
Unimat 3 + milling head & attachments, not a bad bit of kit, but asset stripped it for insane money which paid for my Cowells 90 & kit
Sieg C1 + M1 mill, many mod's and tweaks to that machine and half decent if you weren't in a hurry, (sold last week)
Cowells 90 with good range of accessories (overhauled and still use)
|Thread: Anyone have a Clarke CL250MH (Sieg M1)|
Brian, the foot on mine, which I'm guessing will be similar to that on Hollowpoint's lathe, has a rectangular foot about 150mm wide x 40mm deep, so it's long and shallow and has two Allen bolts for attachment at each end, so considering what's hanging from it already, isn't particularly robust to my eye, must admit I've never done anything more than light drilling with it because I bought a floor standing mill soon after I bought the combo', the milling head and post has been shoved under the bench unused ever since,
The cut down leadscrew probably wouldn't be a problem unless going for the extra height with another post, there's not a lot of clearance to use much of it anyway with just a drill is in the chuck and wound all the way up,
Happy to help, if ground hollow tube isn't available from anywhere, I'd be inclined to wait the 5 weeks for the real deal TBH, solid bar would work, but it would likely be a bit heavy at the back and destabilise the machine if you swung the head away from the bed to use the lathe, perhaps even have it toppling over backwards if it isn't bolted down, also not sure how or if the extra weight would twist or affect the bed in other ways over time .
Edited By RJW on 21/02/2019 11:46:01
|Thread: Blackening steel - Caswell Black-Ox kit|
Nicely made clamps and presentation Kevin, well done,
|Thread: John Wilding Elegant Scroll Skeleton Clock|
Cheers John, I've found some photo's of a replacement spring I made for a longcase movement I Restored, it was for a 5 pillar 8 day 'Pinchbeck' clock with a small 'refinement' not normally seen on run of the mill stuff, so it may suit the skeleton, I'll get them into my albums and post them up for you.
Hi John, the ratchet on the mainspring barrel doesn't have a spring, the pawl is initially held away from the ratchet teeth during initial setting up, then engaged and locked tight once the mainspring pre-load is set, it isn't moved again unless necessary to reset the spring preload,
The spring on the fusee wheel holds the ratchet pawl against the teeth on the ratchet wheel adjacent to its train wheel, this can be fashioned out of strip brass, a common repair on antique longcases and fusees when they work harden and break,
|Thread: Unknown Spark Ignition 2 Stroke|
It's possible, but the machining is off centre slightly which makes it look odd, and by the look of it someone has chewed the threads off with mole grips or stripped the threads winding something off the end brutalising it, appears threaded off centre too,
Haven't had the crank out yet because of the shape of it, so no idea what other horrors lay in wait.
Thanks Andrew, much appreciated, I've trawled all over the web and found nothing like it,
Few more photo's:
Can anyone identify this engine for me please,
It's a 2 stroke spark ignition single, fairly crude castings and machining so may have been from a casting kit,
There are no fittings for a contact breaker outfit, but has a machined slot in the nose and clearance for a cam and push rod,
Alloy head, cast iron cylinder, approx 3/4" bore & 1" Stroke, overhung crankpin and a bronze connecting rod, the piston looks a bit skewed with the deflector on the crown hand filed, intake on the back of the cylinder with exhaust through slot drilled & filed in the cylinder casting, carb's missing unfortunately,
Total height approx 3.3/4"crankcase back to front of nose approx 3", crankcase approx 1.5/8"
Edited By RJW on 08/03/2018 21:02:32
|Thread: Optical Dividing Heads V Disc Type|
John, Your spreadsheet is Superb, Many Many thanks for the link and passing it on, I'm sure many others will appreciate it too,
Thanks too for the tips Clive, hard earned from the sounds of it and well noted, Very much appreciated,
All I need now is for this crap weather to clear up and hoof it over to the seller and see the thing, hopefully in the next week, will update accordingly.
Yeah right, have you seen the price of Meccano lately Bazyle
Thanks Hopper, yes I'm heading for gear and pinion cutting plus a few gear wheels for i.c. engines,
|Thread: Cleaning up surface rust|
Jon, the handles and wheels on my ML7 were in a pretty bad way with flaking chrome etc, plus several exposed steel parts on the crosslide and tailstock,
For the handles and handwheels to get the bad chrome off and pitting out, I shoved mine in another lathe (the Myford was stripped) and cleaned them up using 180G production paper to get the real grot out, then worked up to 600G W&D finishing with a scotchbrite pad then general oil, the centres of the wheels got ordinary grey paint.
The acid is dirt cheap typically £1 for 250G of crystals, and safe, you can shove your hands in it but not advisable if you have any cuts, it's also safe to chuck down the drain when done, if you leave it in a tank it'll grow big gobs of mould on the surface so don't leave it hanging around.
|Thread: Optical Dividing Heads V Disc Type|
Thanks Nick, I'm sure I'll get to grips with them quick enough if I go down the mechanical head route, just seems a bit of a black art when you don't have the thing in your hands,
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