Here is a list of all the postings Speedy Builder5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fine Gauze|
I "lost" my piece of fine brass gauze to make a water filter ahead of a steam injector. The workshop gremlins obviously wandered off with it!
However I am now jubilant as I found a disc or two of stainless gauze recovered from defunct cafetières. Its easy to soft solder with a 25watt soldering iron. Use phosphoric acid as the flux (Jenolite liquid rust killer).
To make a 3/16" diameter filter, cut a piece off the disc and wrap around a 3/16" copper tube (dirty tube is best). Hold in place with a bit of cotton thread. Slide about 1/4" length off the tube and solder the joint. Slide it all off and put it back on the other way around and repeat, slowly slide each 1/4" length along and solder until done.
|Thread: Can anyone help me?!|
Wait for Claire to verify, but pictures on the net look similar to a table saw, 5 or 7" diameter sitting in a big heavy cast iron base. It looks like rotation is normal (Anticlockwise looking on the nut). so should be a normal RH thread.
|Thread: What to use for New Worktop?|
I would go for a wooden worktop if you love carpentry and my choice would be solid beech, ash or oak. You need something solid so that it doesn't 'bounce' around when you are chiseling etc. Then have a 3mm aluminium alloy plate that you lay on top for everything else. I just have an oak worktop which gets heavily abused with oil, acid and stuff. When I have a major carpentry job on, I just run the orbital sander over into clean it up. The worktop is 2" thick, so like a butcher's block, it will last my days out. A cheaper alternative is to buy an 8 x 4 sheet of 3/4"ply, cut down the centre and glue both sheets together to make a nice thick work top.
Other cheaper ideas are builders planks, planed on one side only.
|Thread: Speedy Boiler Feeds|
Progress is slow in making my 5" SPEEDY loco, and I am now on to the boiler feed arrangements. There are 3 'cold' water feeds. The hand pump feeds via a clack valve into the bottom of the boiler via a bush on the backhead. The axle pump which has a bypass valve feeds into the top of the boiler adjacent to the safety valve on the tapered boiler barrel. Likewise, the injector feeds hot water in on the opposite side of the barrel.
Now I can understand the injector feeding in at the top of the boiler, but why feed cold water (from the axle pump) into the top as well ? Surely that should go into the bottom of the boiler.
Any comments ?
|Thread: Now is a good time|
Now is a good time to do an inventory of your workshop. Use a spreadsheet to identify all your tools and against each indicate date of acquisition, cost, todays 2nd hand value and Estimated original price. Should something happen to you (Don't mention the "V" word) it may help your family. Send a copy to your insurance company perhaps ?
Another good thing to stop boredom setting in whilst going through this isolation period / Lock down would be to write your life story, search the internet of places you worked at and include photos etc. A lot of us were apprentices - include all that stuff as a modern apprenticeship only scrapes the surface. Those of us who toiled for 5 years on nuppence an hour and stayed on at college etc have lots to tell another generation.
Of course, you could finish off that project that you started some years ago.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Just to add a note to Nick's excellent work, just be careful when working old electrical 'copper'. as it is likely to be Berillyium copper which in fine particles (linishing, use of emery cloth etc) is dangerous to health. I suspect that we would only have limited contact, but the risk is there.
Search on the net for these YouTube videos and follow this Frenchman's extraordinary contribution to model engineering.
Search- video FreddyFreddy42
There are several videos in the series
|Thread: Emco chuck on Watchmakers lathe|
Update - On closer inspection, there is a thread adaptor (Backplate). The thread in the chuck is 5/8" x 11TPI 55 degree form - Whit ? I guess there won't be many arbors like that around.
Its definitely not metric form
|Thread: Dewhurst switch!|
Question. Why does a Dewhurst switch have a centre OFF position if it is not meant to be used as an ON/OFF/Reversing switch? I agree that arcing does take place however after 20 years of intensive use I find the damage to the rollers to be minimal. My switch is used on a Boxford fitted with a 240V 3/4 Hp motor.
I agree that there should be an NVR switch in the circuit - perhaps more than one so you can have emergency stops as well.
Perhaps next week it will fail !!
|Thread: Emco chuck on Watchmakers lathe|
Belated thanks Jason, not found one yet but ... At least I have a name for the 'Arbour'. A 1/2 " BFS tap enters the chuck nicely, but I suppose it could be 12mm x 1.5 - will check that out tomorrow.
|Thread: Help pls what lathe is this|
Is it a STEDALL ? The plate says Supplied by STEDALL. Have a good look at the tailstock end of the bed and see if you can see any other identification.
|Thread: Emco chuck on Watchmakers lathe|
I want to fit a 2" Emco 3 jaw chuck to my watchmakers lathe (Unknown make).
So I need an 8mm collet with a front end threaded 1/2" BSF to fit the Emco chuck. Anyone know what it is called or where I could look for one.
I have the dimensions of the lathe collet and a list of collet tales from the 'Lathes' site.
|Thread: Piston seals|
What piston seal for Bronze piston and GM cylinder ? SPEEDY 5" gauge
|Thread: Hand Wash|
Just noticed that our bottle of antiseptic hand wash is made in China - is it safe to use it ???
I have used silver solders for many years and used a basic flux from various suppliers. When making joints with stainless steel I always use HT5 types of flux, but I am now tending to find that it is beneficial to use HT5 on any job where the heating may be prolonged. Typically this may be when using a smaller cartridge gas torch instead of the larger 'Bullfinch' propane torch.
I see that one of our suppliers charge an extra 50p for the 250 gram HT5 powder fluxes compared with the EF, so cost wise there is little difference.
Are there any disadvantages in using HT5 instead of the EF range ?
|Thread: Boiler pressure|
Preparing for first boiler inspection, purchase of working gauge etc.
Thanks for the replies.
Does anyone know what working pressure a 5" Speedy GWR 1500 loco should run at. I can't find a reference to this either on the drawings or LBSC's book on Speedy.
|Thread: trepanning small holes|
Ah ! Success, the diamond burrs 0.8mm diameter in the 'Dremel' have done the trick, the remaining hole will have to be made round, tapped and 'soldered' into place with some CuPSol before re-tapping 8BA. Fortunately, the tapped hole does not enter the wet side of the backhead and is in the flange of the fitting.
Thanks to others who have contributed.
Thanks Michael, Just reminds me, I do have some small diamond burrs - perhaps try a bit of dental work ?
I need to remove an HSS 8BA tap from a bronze fitting in the Bankhead of a 5" gauge loco boiler. A week of "alum" treatment hasn't done much, but its been done cold as I can't see a way of getting the boiler hot and the alum solution around the broken tap without the use of plastercine to make a wall around the tapped hole.
Spark erosion is out of the question as I don't have any contacts for that and professional help too expensive. The precision required for a 8BA tap removal dictated that I wouldn't build a home made setup. (I suppose precision isn't important if I was prepared to go along with plugging the hole and re-tapping !!)
Next idea is to make a trepanning tool that would leave enough metal to be able to tap the finished hole 2BA, remove the broken tap, make a 2BA plug and then re-tap 8BA. The trepanning tool would be 0.140" diameter with an internal diameter of 0.086" - giving 0.027" wall thickness. The depth of the trepanning needs to be 0.25". The tool would be made of hardened silver steel.
The boiler is too big to get under the head of my milling machine, but could possibly mount onto the saddle of the Boxford lathe. A guide plate could be mounted onto the existing fitting to guide the trepanning tool.
Anyone had experience of very small trepanning tools ??
As an alternative, I could remove the fitting altogether by boring it out on the lathe, but that would not be an easy option either. Removing by heat would mean that the complete backhead would have to be brought up to silver solder melting temp. If mechanically removed, a lower temp silver solder could be used to re-set a new fitting.
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