Here is a list of all the postings Speedy Builder5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Large Pulley wheels|
Perhaps an unlikely source of V belt pulleys is spare parts for ride on mowers - typically the drive pulley on the gear box / rear axle is about 225mm diameter.
Hi Clive. I have a similar problem from time to time. Once you are fit, I do a 10 minute work out when I get up with specific exercises -EVERY morning followed by a 45 minute walk. When I have had a chronic bout, a 1 day stay in hospital under morphine, followed by prescription KETAPROFINE works wonders for me, but we are all different. Good luck and the bees will probably make out OK anyway.
|Thread: Main spring|
Thanks everyone, its been an interesting afternoon and have been talking to Meadows and Passmore. It is more than likely that the spring is weak and another is on order - Well, they do sell springs !
Watched the video thanks Michael and found this one too. **LINK**
I never realised just how clean bearing had to be, I suppose its the problem of working with an Austin 7 for the last 44 years!
I suppose its too late to go back now !!
It all looks in a clean condition although the mainspring releases itself with a bit of a 'jump' every now and again. I assume this may be due to old oil causing the coils of the spring to 'glue' together, but before I take that out and clean it, I thought a few questions / thoughts may be in order.
Here are some photos, but don't know if they help. The clock is marked SMITHS Enfield and on one corner is marked HF. The wooden case is dated 1/9/1950
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 08/07/2019 11:25:22
|Thread: Gas Burners?|
Pete W, and then we wonder why the bees are dying off - never mind, it will be us humans next, but we don't seem to be bothered do we ??
|Thread: Main spring|
I have been asked to look at a Smiths Manthe clock dated 1 sept 1950, just 4 years after I was born ! Both the main and chime springs were overwound, but there doesn't seem to be enough Zing in the main spring to make the escape wheel to turn. If I take the escapement off, the wheel turns OK. I have cleaned and sparsely oiled all the bearings, but still not enough to make the escapement tick back and forth even without a pendulum.
Has the Zing gone from my spring - and can I get it back ?
So there we are, strolling along the promenard when we pass a big rubbish bin with some empty 4 pint beer kegs, the sort that have the CO2 in with the beer. My wife says, they would make nice waste paper baskets !! - Hope they are what they look like and nothing serious! (Sailsbury)
Ok, so we have one in the workshop, empty and gas less. Carefully grinding the seal between the lid and the body of the barrel away leaves me with the empty barrel and a small aerosole can stuck to the floor of the barrel. Remove aerosole and check no pressure, and remove the top of the aerosole (Because it rattles) and inside its full of small black pellets. I assume these are carbon (CO2 ??).
Would these be any good for case hardening ?
|Thread: Phone charger|
Robert, the Laptop charger is original Apple with built in lead and 'magnetic' plug. Wiggling the Laptop end plug doesn't make any difference until unplugged from the mains, shorted and re-plugged. Note, these are Euro 2 pin devices without earth pin.
On occasion, there is a healthy spark from the Apple charger when plugged in .
The mobile phone chargers are 'no brand' with assorted leads
Every now and again, our phone charger(s) and Apple laptop charger refuse to work. The simple fix is to unplug them from the mains and the device, then short out between the mains pins of the charger. There is often a small spark when shorted out.
After that, they magically work - What is going on and could this action damage the charger?
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 02/07/2019 06:59:38
|Thread: Snail Problems|
I am a bit late on this one. There is a snail farm down the road from us, probably 10,000 snails in each 'pen'. You guessed it right, I live in France. Here the pens have a brick wall about 50Cm high. The first line of defence is a shallow tray of salt around the 30 cm line. Above that are 2 pairs of wire fences running at mains voltage. So you can have your snails au nature, slightly salty or crisp !!
|Thread: Removing Broken Tap|
Colin, just be aware that the part-tapped hole may have work hardened at the point where the flute which caused the breakage (Yes I know you broke it) snapped off. Go real easy with that new tap - may be even better if you take Andrew's advice and drill a bit over size.
|Thread: Electronic Noise and ARDUINO|
Maurice, the car has an earth / ground - the chassis, and in an Austin 7 like mine it happens to be a Negative earth. The Arduino computer has a 'Ground' or 0 volt. So what Andrew is saying (I think) is that the shield should be connected to the vehicle ground, and not the 0 volt circuit of the Arduino, but by experiment this might change ?
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 22/06/2019 21:22:21
Thanks Andrew, I will get a rule out and measure the wavelength, seriously, I am well out of my depth here as I have no idea what the interference is, Dynamo, dynamo control box, spark plugs, soil, contacts etc and I might just be chasing my tail. So for a start, I will put it all in a "tin" box, and if that doesn't work, leave it in the box !! But just in case, do I ground the box to Vehicle Earth (negative earth system) or to the GND of the Arduino, or both.
Had another go today, at first, it did make a difference with the bonnet closed and doors shut, but not for long ! I then disconnected all the sensors - No difference, so the noise is affecting the UNO or the display.
If I shield the complete project board (except the display), and add a plate bonded to the shield over the UNO, battery and jumper leads etc, would it matter that the edges of the MDF project board were unprotected ?
Also, can the shield be made from perforated metal, or does it need to be solid ?
As there are no physical connections to the car's electrical system, should the ground of the Arduino and the shield be tied to the chassis of the car (Negative earth) ?
Must try my other idea to see if it is the LCD screen acting up or the Arduino.
|Thread: Metal de-coroder|
Very French !! de-coroder , English de-corRoder
|Thread: Electronic Noise and ARDUINO|
Nothing ODD about wanting to know more Neil. 9v DC is from the PP9 in the photo. The DS1820 probes are the waterproof type with no shield, so clip on chokes might be helpful.
Remove the "Aerial" from the interrupt line.
I had a thought, Run it from the laptop and see if it is the Arduino or the display as the code includes lines for serial output tothe laptop screen.
What a disappointment, I have been developing a crude engine temperature and RPM application for an ARDUINO UNO. Its been a moment working out 1 Wire temperature measurement, I2C LCD screens and Interrupts, but finally it was time to move the development board into the car and see what we could see.
Mounting the DS1820 temperature probes in various places and finding out the for some reason (unresolved) the UNO would only read 4 out of the 5 probes in spite of all the addresses etc being correct. Oh well, 4 probes working wasn't a bad start.
Then mounted the Hall Effect sensor to measure camshaft speed (2 magnets would give RPM.) OK so far.
Now we get the engine running, and the screen goes crazy - OK, it is an unsurpressed 1932 Austin 7. If I move the UNO about 6 feet from the engine, most things settle down. I want to keep the car pretty original (Un Supressed) . If I shield the actual ARDUINO UNO with a metal housing, would that make much difference, or am I on a hiding to nothing ??
Ps, I do have a fly lead attached to Pin 3 which is an external interrupt pin - could this be an "Ariel" ?
|Thread: Mill X axis|
Following on from Dave's post, if the stepper motor had a 2:1 reduction toothed belt drive, I assume that 2x and a bit times the torque required to move the slide when not under load would be Ok. I would build into the system safety stop microswitches at the limits of slide movement.
Search is now on for some suitable bits.
Thanks Bob B, but I was hoping to define the length of cut by counting the number of pulses sent to the stepper motor which would be the start of an NC machine.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.