Here is a list of all the postings Speedy Builder5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Welding and Pacemakers|
Use the welder to jump start your heart if it stops ? Alternatively what Jeff says.
|Thread: Silver Soldering Flux?|
The old borax brazing flux was just a block of borax and another lump which you ground together with a bit of water.
Terne coated stainless steel roof panels (Terne coating is a a zinc-tin alloy metal coating process that gives extra corrosion resistance. Terne metals produced acccording to US ASTM A308 are expected to contain alloys copper, nickel, chromium, molybdenum, vanadium, titanium, columbium, and boron, at alloy mixes depending on the specific product requirement.
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 08/03/2021 06:46:09
|Thread: mitre saw use for roughing out/ vertical milling mild steel?|
I had an EVOLOUTION mitre saw that was rated to cut wood, mild steel, Al alloy etc. It didn't go so well on HTS re-inforcing bar, so with careful use, it could be used. They also make blades especially for metal, as used in their metal chop saws.
|Thread: Compressor questions|
And, don't forget to drain the water from the tank by a drain valve which should be underneath the tank somewhere.
Item 3 - automatic water drain. Drains at low pressure ie: startup. You should also be able to press the bottom brass fitting up to release trapped water whilst under pressure
Items 2 and 1 - Pressure relief valves. These are open to atmosphere on startup of the motors and reduce the load on the motors until they have spun up to speed. It is possible that if they didn't work, that the motor would stall on startup and possibly burn out. It looks like they are adjustable - perhaps for the time delay, but just guessing on that bit.
Although not mentioned, Item 3, the pressure regulator/ condensation filter also has the safety pressure release valve (brass fitting at the side).
|Thread: Stepper Motor Protection|
Thanks Joe - I can sleep easy at nights now ! I can disengage the drive from the leadscrew, but I guess there will always be the time when you forget.
The project has been quite an education in both C+ programming and learning technical French for the supply of parts and stepper motors.
I have a Stepper controller DM556Y connected to a NEMA 23, 4.3 amp Stepper motor, in turn connected to an Arduino feeding the X axis of a Warco Economy mill. All OK so far.
Question. If the whole unit was powered off and the stepper motor rotated by still being connected to the X axis leadscrew, would the current generated by the stepper motor feed back and damage the stepper motor controller ?
|Thread: Help needed, can't release cast iron wheel|
Just another thought - they come slowly these days. I doubt the wheel is shrunk onto the shaft as there is a bearing behind it, so there must be a pin or set screw holding the wheel to the shaft and some sort of key. Assuming this is the wheel driven by the motor? Clean up the outer boss of the wheel and look for some sort of pin underneath all that paint.
If the wheel IS shrunk onto the shaft, it was never intended to come off and you would have to remove the shaft with the wheel attached by removing pulleys etc from the other side. If it was shrunk on, you would need a heavy press to get it off, not a puller.
I assume that after carefully tightening the puller, heating the hub gently and re-tighteming, you gave the head of the puller screw a good thwack with a 4Lb hammer. Light taps won't do anything. It looks like you have a good purchase on the hub, so the puller must be done up VERY tight - I don't think there is much risk of breaking the hub like that.
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
looking at other Brook Crompton labels (KP7575), the power is marked in Watts on the left hand side of the second line of the typed printing.
Unfortunately, the KP7575 is the part number of a blank label and doesn't help to identify the motor.
Your label shows 240 volts 1425 rpm, single phase, IP 22 and 40degrees C max
I think I can see the wattage marked at 550 watts which is a 3/4 Hp motor ?? as Noel said above.
My Boxford AUD has a 3/4 Hp motor which is adequate, but lacks power for really heavy cuts but good for most of the time.
Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 06/03/2021 14:56:08
|Thread: Ancient Skills|
This was the question:
How did the Romans produce multiple sets of dies .
I wonder how hard the dies would have to be for gold, would bronze have been hard enough?
Swords were made of "steel" and engraved - had they perfected acid etching enough to make dies of steel?
|Thread: Moving warco gh universal into workshop|
Visit you local weight lifting gym - ask for 4 strong men, 2 x strong timbers + straps and carry it up there. You can be the "Banksman".
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
Graham, search this site "Link Belts" - DO NOT BUY CHEAP is my advice - you get what you pay for.
|Thread: Cutting Oil Fumes|
As an apprentice at Weybridge, we used to pass through the heavy machine shop (Undercarridges and engine beams etc) on our way up to the canteen - loved the smell of that thick brown neat oil the food wasn't too bad either!
|Thread: Generator model|
Wasn't it something like:
Eddy Current found Milli Watt in a Field ?
|Thread: Inverted parting tool|
What will stop the saddle lifting off of the bed ?
Is the chuck a screw on one ? if so, what stops the chuck unscrewing ?
|Thread: Silver Soldering help - crankshaft|
What pickle, did you pickle hot or cold?
For me, the brick behind your flame would have been more effective it it were closer to the work, so that the flame "licked" around the workpiece.
|Thread: RCD Tripping|
Hmmm! I had a similar problem on my mill the other day. 3/4 Hp single phase capacitor start. After two resets of the RCD, no further problems. It was cold in the workshop, 4 degrees C, but not unusual winter temperatures.
|Thread: A milling anomaly|
Let's assume the cutter thread is the same as the collet Ie not a metric diameter sitting in an imperial collet.
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